elacesar Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Hello can someone help me out cause i cant seem to locate this clunking sound from the right rear end.. I have checked the exhaust hangers, I have checked the bar bushings and i removed the wheels to check for anything loose but i cant figure.... It usually occurs when i drive over bumps or potholes and also when i make right turns.. It sounds more or less like a clunk, clunk,, and i am just hoping that it doesnt create any damage.. I have taken it to a few mechanics but they cant find it either... Any help will be appreciated... Thanks for listening.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CitizenPete Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Hello can someone help me out cause i cant seem to locate this clunking sound from the right rear end.. I have checked the exhaust hangers, I have checked the bar bushings and i removed the wheels to check for anything loose but i cant figure.... It usually occurs when i drive over bumps or potholes and also when i make right turns.. It sounds more or less like a clunk, clunk,, and i am just hoping that it doesnt create any damage.. I have taken it to a few mechanics but they cant find it either... Any help will be appreciated... Thanks for listening.. Wow... when I read this I thought it was a weird joke someone was playing on me. Our RX300 started the same issue this week. I think the noise is coming from the drivers side rear spring. I had my wife push up and down on the back of the vehicle, while I stuck my head in the wheel well, and that is definitely where the noise is coming from. A bad shock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CitizenPete Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Hello can someone help me out cause i cant seem to locate this clunking sound from the right rear end.. Found this post from a while back: Somewhere around 60,000 miles on my wife's 1999 RX300, she began complaining about a "thunk" sound when on bumpy streets and similar situations. Turned out to be the top suspension support -- the round, black plate at the top of the strut. There is a big rubber ring in there that gives out over time, so lets the top of the shock absorber (strut) bang around. I was told they redesigned that support from the original, to make the center hole round instead of oblong. That may reduce the noise, some, but it doesn't keep the ring from wearing out, so "thunk" results. In my xase, the driver's side strut was leaking oil as well, so I had to replace the strut. I replaced the top support at the same time. I actually got the support and the associated bearing from O'Reilly's. AutoZone has them (or can get them) as well. The strut I got from www.pickproparts.com for around $95 plus shipping. I got a second one from them later for the passenger site. Wasn't hard to replace, but read the other posts on this site on how to do it and what to watch for. Biggest pain is the need for spring compressors. The replacements were KYB shocks. Seemed to ride like the originals. In fact, I believ the originals were made by KYB as well. Hope that helps. I reckon the mount is the suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CitizenPete Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 I think this is the replacement part: http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/KYB/Shock_and_Strut_Mount/KYSM5175.html?location=Rear-comma-_Driver_Or_Passenger_Side&sc=Product+Listing+Page:15 Anyone else swap this part in? Can you do it on one side if one one side is bad? Do you recommend replacing the shock(s) at the same time even if it is not leaking, or can I save money by just replacing the one mount? (120K miles) recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CitizenPete Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 Nobody is posting on this? I spoke to the dealer - they want $325 parts and labor to replace the mount. Dealer did mention that this is a noise issue only and should not effect safe operation. I told them I would call them back on the $325+tax job (WHFreezesOver). Part is around 40 -- local shop quoted $108 to r&r. ($150 parts and labor). Any input from any RXers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr RX 330 Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 I have the same issue, however I was told it was the 'rear carrier bushing'. Unfortunately, they only sell it as a complete replacement unit, the whole knuckle assembly, along with the wheel bearing. Total cost including labor is quoted at $1500!!! I'm trying desperately to find an aftermarket bushing kit, but so far am coming up empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CitizenPete Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I have the same issue, however I was told it was the 'rear carrier bushing'. Unfortunately, they only sell it as a complete replacement unit, the whole knuckle assembly, along with the wheel bearing. Total cost including labor is quoted at $1500!!! I'm trying desperately to find an aftermarket bushing kit, but so far am coming up empty. Wowser! $1500 (No F'n way!) -- I spoke to the dealer over the phone and they said it is probably the mount and based on the other posts within the forum I still assume thats what it is. As I mentioned previously they quoted $325. IS there anyway to determine if it is the rear carrier bushing? The sound I am hearing is definitely coming from the driver side wheel well -- the carrier would be centered, correct? Peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr RX 330 Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 I have the same issue, however I was told it was the 'rear carrier bushing'. Unfortunately, they only sell it as a complete replacement unit, the whole knuckle assembly, along with the wheel bearing. Total cost including labor is quoted at $1500!!! I'm trying desperately to find an aftermarket bushing kit, but so far am coming up empty. Wowser! $1500 (No F'n way!) -- I spoke to the dealer over the phone and they said it is probably the mount and based on the other posts within the forum I still assume thats what it is. As I mentioned previously they quoted $325. IS there anyway to determine if it is the rear carrier bushing? The sound I am hearing is definitely coming from the driver side wheel well -- the carrier would be centered, correct? Peace The rear carrier is also known as the knuckle. It's the part the hub assembly attaches to, along with the suspension components such as the shock and control arms. The one that's worn on mine is the rear driver's side forward control arm, and the bushing is on the knuckle side of it. The sound coming from it made it sound as though it was coming from the rear passenger side, but it was actually the rear drivers side. I managed to find 2 knuckle assemblies with bushings from an '08 Highlander with 6k miles at an autowrecker in NY. I'm having them picked up by FedEx and shipped to me. I'll probably just replace the one worn bushing, and keep everything else until I need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcvaun Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 It does sound like a wheel hub, bering, knuckle, assembly... I too have the same issue. Iv been on the hunt for a new assembly, but I have thrown a bit of a curve ball. Does anyone know the difference between American made and Japan made models and their wheel hubs? Or is there a difference, besides the extra $200? Now, I know Japan is held to a higher standard in their machining tolerances, and I can understand a price difference for that, but is there and physical diffs? Are they interchangeable? I need to replace my right rear on my 04 330 and don't know what part to get. Any help would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauljcl Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 It does sound like a wheel hub, bering, knuckle, assembly... I too have the same issue. Iv been on the hunt for a new assembly, but I have thrown a bit of a curve ball. Does anyone know the difference between American made and Japan made models and their wheel hubs? Or is there a difference, besides the extra $200? Now, I know Japan is held to a higher standard in their machining tolerances, and I can understand a price difference for that, but is there and physical diffs? Are they interchangeable? I need to replace my right rear on my 04 330 and don't know what part to get. Any help would be great! Are the Lexus (Toyota) part numbers the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdu Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 I have a RX350 with 135000 miles. No problems with the car until recently when a loud clunk (as if someone was hitting the rear right fender) especially when hitting a bump. I recently changed the shock absorber but the clunking immediately became worse. Nothing looks amiss but something obviously is. What could this loud clunking sound be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdu Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 On 12/29/2019 at 7:28 PM, wdu said: I have a RX350 with 135000 miles. No problems with the car until recently when a loud clunk (as if someone was hitting the rear right fender) especially when hitting a bump. I recently changed the shock absorber but the clunking immediately became worse. Nothing looks amiss but something obviously is. What could this loud clunking sound be? wdu: I took my 135,000 mile RX350 to a tire/repair store to have the loud clunking noise diagnosed and they discovered the upper shock absorber mount was loose. After tightening the three bolts, my car once again rides beautifully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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