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kuziwk

New Subwoofer

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so i just wanted to tap into the existing wires to the sub, my choices are as follows

1. hook up a new sub and leave the old sub plugged in having both subs, the new one would be in the trunk which is sealed off from the cabin.

2. port the new sub from the trunk with some insulated pvc into the 8 inch hole (after i pull the old sub)

3. Or i can just pull the stock sub and leave the trunk as a large resonator for the sub, which would leak into the cabin from the 8" hole

so what do you guys think i should do?

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so i just wanted to tap into the existing wires to the sub, my choices are as follows

1. hook up a new sub and leave the old sub plugged in having both subs, the new one would be in the trunk which is sealed off from the cabin.

2. port the new sub from the trunk with some insulated pvc into the 8 inch hole (after i pull the old sub)

3. Or i can just pull the stock sub and leave the trunk as a large resonator for the sub, which would leak into the cabin from the 8" hole

so what do you guys think i should do?

My sub cracked and I needed a replacement. The first shop I went to said "no problem" and that he would fit something in there for a couple hundred. He had no concerns about the box size or ohm requirements. ........ The second shop owner was honest. He said he had a lot of exprience with early model LS 400's. Unfortunately, he had no luck with his products and the resulting sound. Everything he tried just wasn't quite right and he recommended just a factory fix which I eventually opted to do. I've had no regrets and the system sounds remarkably good for a 20 year old system.

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so i just wanted to tap into the existing wires to the sub, my choices are as follows

1. hook up a new sub and leave the old sub plugged in having both subs, the new one would be in the trunk which is sealed off from the cabin.

2. port the new sub from the trunk with some insulated pvc into the 8 inch hole (after i pull the old sub)

3. Or i can just pull the stock sub and leave the trunk as a large resonator for the sub, which would leak into the cabin from the 8" hole

so what do you guys think i should do?

My sub cracked and I needed a replacement. The first shop I went to said "no problem" and that he would fit something in there for a couple hundred. He had no concerns about the box size or ohm requirements. ........ The second shop owner was honest. He said he had a lot of exprience with early model LS 400's. Unfortunately, he had no luck with his products and the resulting sound. Everything he tried just wasn't quite right and he recommended just a factory fix which I eventually opted to do. I've had no regrets and the system sounds remarkably good for a 20 year old system.

May I ask what the factory fix was ,where you got it and the cost?

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so i just wanted to tap into the existing wires to the sub, my choices are as follows

1. hook up a new sub and leave the old sub plugged in having both subs, the new one would be in the trunk which is sealed off from the cabin.

2. port the new sub from the trunk with some insulated pvc into the 8 inch hole (after i pull the old sub)

3. Or i can just pull the stock sub and leave the trunk as a large resonator for the sub, which would leak into the cabin from the 8" hole

so what do you guys think i should do?

My sub cracked and I needed a replacement. The first shop I went to said "no problem" and that he would fit something in there for a couple hundred. He had no concerns about the box size or ohm requirements. ........ The second shop owner was honest. He said he had a lot of exprience with early model LS 400's. Unfortunately, he had no luck with his products and the resulting sound. Everything he tried just wasn't quite right and he recommended just a factory fix which I eventually opted to do. I've had no regrets and the system sounds remarkably good for a 20 year old system.

May I ask what the factory fix was ,where you got it and the cost?

yes, i am also interested. I should also mention the bass im looking for is no where near the stock setup. For the record my last vehicle, the sub use to shake the rear view mirror out of place.

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so i just wanted to tap into the existing wires to the sub, my choices are as follows

1. hook up a new sub and leave the old sub plugged in having both subs, the new one would be in the trunk which is sealed off from the cabin.

2. port the new sub from the trunk with some insulated pvc into the 8 inch hole (after i pull the old sub)

3. Or i can just pull the stock sub and leave the trunk as a large resonator for the sub, which would leak into the cabin from the 8" hole

so what do you guys think i should do?

I would ditch the original sub and replace it with an earthquake!!! lol.

Seriously there is very little choice on a direct replacement mainly due to the physical size of the stock sub,the lack of space where it fits and the fact the impedance of the stock sub is only 2 Ohms so this could upset the amplifier should this be altered.

Follow this link for a possible solution

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subwoofer.html

My sub cracked and I needed a replacement. The first shop I went to said "no problem" and that he would fit something in there for a couple hundred. He had no concerns about the box size or ohm requirements. ........ The second shop owner was honest. He said he had a lot of exprience with early model LS 400's. Unfortunately, he had no luck with his products and the resulting sound. Everything he tried just wasn't quite right and he recommended just a factory fix which I eventually opted to do. I've had no regrets and the system sounds remarkably good for a 20 year old system.

May I ask what the factory fix was ,where you got it and the cost?

yes, i am also interested. I should also mention the bass im looking for is no where near the stock setup. For the record my last vehicle, the sub use to shake the rear view mirror out of place.

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Something went a bit wrong with the posting.

I would ditch the original sub and replace it with an earthquake!!! lol.

Seriously there is very little choice on a direct replacement mainly due to the physical size of the stock sub,the lack of space where it fits and the fact the impedance of the stock sub is only 2 Ohms so this could upset the amplifier should this be altered.

Follow this link for a possible solution

http://www.lexls.com.../subwoofer.html

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Something went a bit wrong with the posting.

I would ditch the original sub and replace it with an earthquake!!! lol.

Seriously there is very little choice on a direct replacement mainly due to the physical size of the stock sub,the lack of space where it fits and the fact the impedance of the stock sub is only 2 Ohms so this could upset the amplifier should this be altered.

Follow this link for a possible solution

http://www.lexls.com.../subwoofer.html

There is also a Pioneer free-air sub that fits the 8-inch opening with a minor modification, although you will need a new amp to go with it. I provided a detailed post on this a while ago. If you're interested, just look up my previous posts.

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Something went a bit wrong with the posting.

I would ditch the original sub and replace it with an earthquake!!! lol.

Seriously there is very little choice on a direct replacement mainly due to the physical size of the stock sub,the lack of space where it fits and the fact the impedance of the stock sub is only 2 Ohms so this could upset the amplifier should this be altered.

Follow this link for a possible solution

http://www.lexls.com.../subwoofer.html

There is also a Pioneer free-air sub that fits the 8-inch opening with a minor modification, although you will need a new amp to go with it. I provided a detailed post on this a while ago. If you're interested, just look up my previous posts.

These are rare but do come up from time to time on ebay, JL Audio 8IB they would no doubt suit very well. I had a pair of 12's on a large parcel shelf and loved the open sound.

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Something went a bit wrong with the posting.

I would ditch the original sub and replace it with an earthquake!!! lol.

Seriously there is very little choice on a direct replacement mainly due to the physical size of the stock sub,the lack of space where it fits and the fact the impedance of the stock sub is only 2 Ohms so this could upset the amplifier should this be altered.

Follow this link for a possible solution

http://www.lexls.com.../subwoofer.html

There is also a Pioneer free-air sub that fits the 8-inch opening with a minor modification, although you will need a new amp to go with it. I provided a detailed post on this a while ago. If you're interested, just look up my previous posts.

These are rare but do come up from time to time on ebay, JL Audio 8IB they would no doubt suit very well. I had a pair of 12's on a large parcel shelf and loved the open sound.

what does the free air sub sound like compared to a ported box?

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Something went a bit wrong with the posting.

link doesnt work

I would ditch the original sub and replace it with an earthquake!!! lol.

Seriously there is very little choice on a direct replacement mainly due to the physical size of the stock sub,the lack of space where it fits and the fact the impedance of the stock sub is only 2 Ohms so this could upset the amplifier should this be altered.

Follow this link for a possible solution

http://www.lexls.com.../subwoofer.html

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Ported boxes deliver slow woolly peaky Bass, often louder than other designs but only at set frequencies. A REAL free air sub in a proper baffle (a la IB8 in the LS rear deck) will sound very musical, go pretty deep and smooth. What I noticed was that bass wasnt just a tone, but i could hear the difference between synthisized 40hz and bass guitar 40hz, hearing the strings in the bass sound

I have 5 years experience with installing car audio, I specialised in large saloons. I cant recommend enough that you try your hardest to make the rear deck IB speaker work as a solution for you. Lexus spent a LOT of time and money sound deadening that boot/rear seat area to prevent noise and road drone from entering the cab. It will block the bass in a standard sub box just the same.

There is only 1 other real option for serious bass in a car like this (other than a lot of large sub's running really high power to get bass through the cars interior). A design I came up with using an enclosure type called 5th order bandpass

SINGLE-BANDPASS.jpg

These are different because the bass is delivered out of the port alone. The cone is not visable on the outside of the box. The picture there shows the port running inside the box, I realised i could move it to be half inside the box, half protruding from it, its the length of the tube that matters. The portion that sticks outside of the box i took up through the rear deck and sealed to the shelf.

This way 100% of the bass energy is delivered into the listening area, not trying to fight through a petrol tank, sound deadening, a rear leather seat and eventually into the car.

down side is each box needs custom designing to specifics of a sub driver. the results are worth it though.

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