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BALOO BELLE

Trans Mounts?

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i cant open my last post. I noticed on top of the jerky clunky in low gears that i can feel the idle in the steering wheel, brake pedal, and center console when at a light. i thought it was a tank of bad gas or that i need an oil change. no vibes in the shifter unless at high speeds. it feels more like the road than vibes. there are no ride vibrations other than high speeds on certian pavement when the steering wheel vibrates (not jerking) right/left. I specifically asked multiple times if it was my mount since i had started noticing symptoms the last month!!! they have rebalanced my tires like 4 times for free. I think they just like seeing me every weekend.

so the question is which of the two mounts at lexus is for my car? The parts guy had my vin and wouldnt tell me since im not having it done there. one part number is the same mount as a v6 camry. toyota is much easier to work with! is it safe to assume the other mount is for the black chrome/sports? package or did they just use two diff types for that platform? do i need to order both and return what i dont use?

also is it safe to use quality aftermarket camry mounts? Can I wait 6k since its not showing signs of wear, they told me not to change it at this point. annoying yes, safe maybe? They said it wont screw up my alignment etc.. ill have to have it balanced agian.

es300 camry 12372-0A040 $164

es300 unknown 12360-20090 $164

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i cant open my last post. I noticed on top of the jerky clunky in low gears that i can feel the idle in the steering wheel, brake pedal, and center console when at a light. i thought it was a tank of bad gas or that i need an oil change. no vibes in the shifter unless at high speeds. it feels more like the road than vibes. there are no ride vibrations other than high speeds on certian pavement when the steering wheel vibrates (not jerking) right/left. I specifically asked multiple times if it was my mount since i had started noticing symptoms the last month!!! they have rebalanced my tires like 4 times for free. I think they just like seeing me every weekend.

so the question is which of the two mounts at lexus is for my car? The parts guy had my vin and wouldnt tell me since im not having it done there. one part number is the same mount as a v6 camry. toyota is much easier to work with! is it safe to assume the other mount is for the black chrome/sports? package or did they just use two diff types for that platform? do i need to order both and return what i dont use?

also is it safe to use quality aftermarket camry mounts? Can I wait 6k since its not showing signs of wear, they told me not to change it at this point. annoying yes, safe maybe? They said it wont screw up my alignment etc.. ill have to have it balanced agian.

es300 camry 12372-0A040 $164

es300 unknown 12360-20090 $164

No way would I pay that kind of $$$ for a mount! I picked up a aftermarket transmission mount (Anchor) from RockAuto.com (awesome vendor) for like $18 + 10 for shipping. Works just fine!

Your 2002 mount from Anchor would cost about $112 shipped with the 5% discount code.

Code = 30677292530201

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No idea why you can't open your last thread...I'll go check on it.

$112 for an aftermarket mount or $164 for the factory mount...IMHO the $52 more for the OEM part is totally worth it.

How much vibration are you feeling when at a light? My ES has never been 100% vibration free at idle like say an LS is, even when it was new. I have always been able to slightly feel the engine idling. If you turn the HVAC off you'll notice it smooths out.

So the mounts are probably worn...mine are certainly worn after 145k miles. I just recently had the dogbone mount replaced and am thinking about having the lower mount replaced but its still really smooth as it is.

I highly doubt that is your road vibration though. Have you ever had the wheels road force balanced? I just dealt with a vibration that balancing was changing but never completely doing away with. I just had the wheels road force balanced yesterday and its 100% smooth again. Not cheap...but when you just can't seem to get them balanced it works. Plus the road force machine will tell the tech if there are any internal issues with the tires or any issues with the wheels. I know you said you had some bent rims...they are going to have to be

It is a machine and it does exhibit some vibration when its operating...sometimes when you go digging for all these things you just get hyper sensitive to it...

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steve your post are !Removed! things up. lol not sure if you will be able to open this. after your posts there is a lot of empty formatted screen.

things i noticed outside of the mount clunk not thinking about it being related just in the same time span. i realized the steeing wheel was rough like a bad tank of gas. and i run mobil premium. im able to feel more idle in park and in drive. in drive i can feel it througout the car door pannels, brake pedal, steering wheel, seat,and console arm rest. it seemed like it dropped into second today but could be cause i stopped accelorating. i dont remember feeling vibes like this other than the wheel and maybe the pedal. i need an oil change soon. not horrible yet but noticable decline. it honestly seems like the mount gets worse by the week. i do have a 40 mile commute on bad highway and city roads. constant cracks and bumps. im at 105K but the mount had extra wear from driving w rotating, unrotated tires when i got it. the steeting wheeljerked r/l for 5k then finished up at 10K. my arms would go numb from the movement in the begining. since then ive had one issue or another.. never right! im sure that helped break it down premature and i already changed the top mount at 70K when i got it and the steering tightened. its just setting things up to get it done, when, and what order. my next oil change is in 1k so its then or the next one.

ive lost weights off the back tire agian. the bad one is the back right so it will be easy to check. it will need to be fixed but not sure if the trans mount would help it toss the weights since rim guys says its not the rim. the guys at the shop want to dismount the tires and make sure the tube beads? are in the right place since they didnt do the install. that shop doesnt have a road force machine but said they said they did it in a way it was the same. matching heavy to heavy that they didnt need the special machine. dude also said the tire on the bent rim was bad since it molded to the rim that i would need to go back to sams after the rims fixed and make them replace it....???? the guy at the desk said no. now what?

it rides good except a minor bounce when coming to a stop from the weight loss. steering wheel still vibrates r/l certian speeds and pavements. it has gone from a jerk w the old tires, to a decent vibration, to a noticable vibration. it changes everytime they touch the tires but never goes away

I was gonna start w the trans mount n oil change in 1K and have the back tire rebalanced and see if it looses the weights. then if it does get the rim fixed, (change the tire?), and then toyota for the road force $99. Or do I start w tires first... i just dont want to waste money if the mount is gonna toss the weights on the bent rim.

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steve your post are !Removed! things up. lol not sure if you will be able to open this. after your posts there is a lot of empty formatted screen.

I have no idea what you're talking about...everything in this thread and in the other thread you posted is 100% normal.

I was gonna start w the trans mount n oil change in 1K and have the back tire rebalanced and see if it looses the weights. then if it does get the rim fixed, (change the tire?), and then toyota for the road force $99. Or do I start w tires first... i just dont want to waste money if the mount is gonna toss the weights on the bent rim.

Please don't think I'm rude, but in the past I have posted a lot of information in attempts to try and help you and you reply as if you really haven't read anything I've said. I am going to do that again today, PLEASE read everything I am saying. Whatever your mechanic may tell you that is contrary to what I am saying is wrong. These are the facts:

I've read through your post. I think you should find another shop. A lot of what you're talking about doesn't make sense, a bad motor or transmission mount isn't going to cause the wheels to throw weights. Thats caused by weights that are improperly seated in the first place. A missing wheel weight isn't going to cause a bounce as you're coming to a stop, it will cause a steady throbbing vibration at highway speeds between 60-75MPH or so. If you feel it in the steering wheel...its a front wheel. If you feel it in the floor and seat its a rear wheel. Motor and transmission mounts don't get worse by the day...its a very gradual decline that is often imperceptible by the driver.

I think you should start with a new shop and a RoadForce balance. I had a wheel balance problem for a couple months, my trusted mechanic who is very good had balanced and balanced and balanced my wheels and I was starting to think like you that there was an issue somewhere else. I took it to another shop with a RoadForce balancer...3 of the 4 wheels were out of balance and now the car drives smooth as glass at all speeds again. Incredible. These cars are VERY sensitive to wheels being out of balance. Does your car have the original ball joints and lower control arm bushings?

See how the car is after the road force balance. It will also tell you if you have wheels or tires that are out of round. If they are out of round...they have to be replaced. I have a feeling those non-OEM wheels of yours are a part of the problem. You may have to replace all the wheels if those wheels are out of round and bent.

After the road force balance is done and you have the car driving right at speed...address the idle roughness you are experiencing. Is the air filter clean? Is the fuel filter clean? Have the spark plugs and wires been replaced? Should have been done at 100k. What about the timing belt? If all these things are done and its still running rough...replace the motor and tranny mounts.

Thats a good roadmap for you, PLEASE listen to me. You can keep spending money left and right here but if you don't go about it in a systematic way you're going to be out of money...and still have a vibrating car...

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i shouldnt have said rough idle i should have said strong enough to notice throughout the car. and that the transmission symptoms are getting worse weekly not the vibes. no probs w filters or injectors. no skipping or jumping. its smooth and quiet as the day i got my oil changed. i use mobil one synthetic lucas stabilizer and always run mobil premium and a lucas fuel cleaner each oil change. and i dont run it under a 1/4 tank so i dont mess up the fuel filter and i clean the k & n myself every 5k.

I DID THE ROAD FORCE and it told me nothing that i didnt already know. i had one minorly bent rim in the back which was causing the bounce. the steering wheel still vibrates back and forth, it is better though. i opt to have the rim fixed cause i can feel the bounce when i slowly come to a stop even w them road forced. i can say new tires get me about 50 mile more per tank though my avg on the odometer didnt go up. and now w the road force ive on driven 50 miles but the avg has gone up so this will be great if my mileage goes up!

I HAVE TWO VISIBLE BAD MOTOR MOUNTS. why the morons didnt check when i asked is another problem i will deal with when i get my rim back. i had a friend who owns s few car dealerships spen about 45 min w me n the car. it wasnt on a lift so cant tell if the trans or the fourth mount is bad. the dog bone and the top mount is bad agian.. now the top was supposidly changed 2years 35k ago so im guess non rotated tires, bent rim, and a bad dog bone wore it out agian or they changed the 4th mount that i dont know where it is. i was told it was the top i though at the back of the engine where the cabin is. what ever they tightened the steering... so im guessing the mounts are whats making the steering wheel vibe back n forth! i knew i wasnt crazy!and im now going to the 3rd shop at least someone knows this mechanic.

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i had a friend who owns s few car dealerships spen about 45 min w me n the car.

Is he a mechanic? Or just somebody who owns a car dealership?

dog bone and the top mount is bad agian.. now the top was supposidly changed 2years 35k ago so im guess non rotated tires, bent rim, and a bad dog bone wore it out agian or they changed the 4th mount that i dont know where it is.

If the lower mounts are bad they will cause the dogbone mount to go bad again. Not rotating or balancing the tires isn't going to have anything to do with that.

The bent rim is going to fix the bulk of your issues I bet. As for the motor mounts...thats way too young to be having all those mount issues IMHO. How long have you owned the car? Must have had a hard life...

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