killerFatty Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 I just got brand new polk audio DB501 door speakers and put them in the front doors. The sound is much more clear, however they are significantly quieter than the originals. I love the new sound and the install was simple and easy. My only problem is the speaker grilles don't want to go back on. The factory clips are buster and spray on adhesive didn't work either. Should I try hot glue? Also to bring them back to, or surpase, the stock volume should I go ahead and install an amp just for the speakers? BTW what is the stock speaker size. I thought it was 4" but these speakers are 5" and fit perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 Hot glue isn't a bad idea, but get the black glue made for plastics and let it get seriously hot. Like liquid form, that way it melts the surface it's bonding to a little for a tighter fit. You could also try plastic welding the tabs back on the grille face if you still have them. The OE size is indeed a 5", but the OE speakers are slightly smaller cones on a larger frame. An amplifier wouldn't hurt if the volume level isn't what you expected, just remember to match it closely in RMS wattage to the speakers for the best effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 THX RDM you seam to be the go to audio guy. If I do use hot glue and I ever need to get the speakers out again what do I do. That was the only thing holding me back from hot glue. The spray adhesive I figured I could just break off, but I am not sure if that is true for hot glue. The RMS rating on the speakers is 10-45 Watts, so my head unit is putting out just over the bare minimum. I am getting some serious bass destortion now that I had time to really crank it up, so I am planning on getting a set of 300Hz bass blockers. If I get an amp for them, how do I wire it in? I know to run power to it then do I just send the outputs from the head unit to it and run the outs from the amp back to the head unit? I assume I will need a 4-channel amp(1 channel per speaker) I was thinking around 40 Watt RMS X channel. That should boost the volume considerably right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I don't understand your speaker removal question. When you pull the door panel off, the grille is no longer in the way. Are you saying you pried the grille off the door panel? In that case, no wonder they broke. They're not supposed to come off. 40x4 RMS is fine, you could go a bit less too if the price isn't good for a larger amp. Wiring is as any amplifier, it should have a schematic but any good online site will give you in depth details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acidic Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 First off skip the bass blocker, it's not your speakers distorting, it's the stock amp "clipping" which isn't really a good thing. Secondly I would go 50x4 because these amps are readily available and a little headroom is a good thing. You can just use the controls on the amp to limit the output. Here is a few amps from a good site to order from: http://www.woofersetc.com/p7270/EA4100--Eclipse-4-Ch-400-Watt-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6660/PCX4240--Soundstream-4Channel-240-Watt-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p3956/ZX2004--Kicker-4-Ch-200-Watt-ZX-Series-Amplifier.htm I'd go with the eclipse.. but any of them would work and are better than the junk brands out there... wiring it into a stock system isn't the easiest thing to do. Are you running the stock head unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 No I am running a Sony explode series head unit putting out about 14 watts per channel. Yes I just pryed off the speaker grills. I looked at the lexls tutorial for door pannel removal and sayed F*$& that. I do need four channels though right?? As for the base blockers. I do plan on getting some. Especially if I put in an amp because 5" speakers can in no way shape or form handle huge bass. Thats why I have my JL sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acidic Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 No I am running a Sony explode series head unit putting out about 14 watts per channel. Yes I just pryed off the speaker grills. I looked at the lexls tutorial for door pannel removal and sayed F*$& that. I do need four channels though right?? As for the base blockers. I do plan on getting some. Especially if I put in an amp because 5" speakers can in no way shape or form handle huge bass. Thats why I have my JL sub. If you buy an amp it will have crossovers built in and will be adjustable... there are specs with the speakers to say where to xover the low end. The sony deck might work but you'll still be running into the clipping problem... and you only need 4 channels if you want the rear speakers to work... I usually only run front speakers (it's STEREO... which means left/right.. no reason for rear speakers) and a sub so I run 1 4 ch amp, 2 ch for the fronts and I bridge the rear channels for the sub... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 No I am running a Sony explode series head unit putting out about 14 watts per channel. Yes I just pryed off the speaker grills. I looked at the lexls tutorial for door pannel removal and sayed F*$& that. I do need four channels though right?? As for the base blockers. I do plan on getting some. Especially if I put in an amp because 5" speakers can in no way shape or form handle huge bass. Thats why I have my JL sub. The door panels are cake to take off. I'm surprised you went ahead and decided to break the grilles, but to each his own. I would use a 4channel amp so you can still have fader control, you can run a 2channel if you don't mind not having the fade control front to back. Using one with a built in crossover will eliminate the need for capacitors on the speakers, and it will also keep the power level up, caps do 'use up' some of the power, though it's generally less than 5%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Killer, I'll give you props for initiative but I gotta say, with you it's like living in the wild west! lol Your new speakers aren't distorting because of the bass. The amp is likely clipping because it's underpowered. You should have a spec sheet for your new speakers indicating the freq response and where the xovrs should be. Many speakers come as a kit w xovrs and tweeters included. Best scenario for efficient balanced and matched audio is to invest in a system where everythng is integrated and all components are built to work together. Otherwise you're guessing at the various range, impedance, xovr, fusing, crossfading, equalizing, power matchups, etc. Unless you've got a background/experience in audio and know all the specs for all the product out in the market, I'd talk to the pros. Custom work requires knowledge, adhoc only requires a hammer and some beer! :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 My speakers minimum watts are 10 and my head unit is putting out 13 RMS so they should be alright, right? I did install some bass blockers on the speakers and they don't distort hardly at all anymore. I can really bump the volume now with good results, however I still think I want to get an amp for my speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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