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Idle Problem Fixed


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Hey guys this is an update to a previous post i had about fixing my idle probllems I could'nt remember the name of the topic so i started a new one so it would be easier with other guys to find when they put in the search terms for this particular problem.

Ok so the car (1992 sc400, 236,000 miles) use to crank and start up fine then would die on me a little while later after driving it. Then eventually it would crank but wouldnt start. And eventually it got to the point where it would not even crank. I was doing everything I could based on my self diagnosis. I ran check codes and they gave me bad o2 sensors, replaced them still nothing checked all the fuel points from fuel rail to fuel pump, ecu, etc nothing, changed spark plugs checked the timing belt for tear and made sure the teeth were properly placed, nothing So finally I said "F**k this bull sh*t, but I still love you baby". And took it to a shop called Auto Man down here in raleigh North Carolina they specialize in honda and toyota and their luxury alter egos. It turned out my throttle body was broken/bad and so they ordered a new one (used) for about 150$ I think its about 1375$ at the raleigh dealership. OK so that fixed the no cranking, no start problem but now the car is idling to low which was causing the car to cut off on me, essentially the problem was that I had a bad engine ecu. Basically that ecu was'nt communicating properly with the ICV and other parts that handle the air getting to the engine so my car was getting 'choked out'. They ordered me a new one for about 125$

and now the car starts up almost immediatly. and is back to original condition before the problem started. the total cost was 600$ parts and labor and the 60$ diagnosis fee.

However i could have saved about 200$ or more doing the labor my self. but they had to figure out the ECU was bad after replacing the throttle body and so I didnt wont to take the car and be on my own and find out there was something else and keep taking it back and forth and getting recharged for diagnosis fees, especially since I was completely lost to start with. so its drivable but not ready for showing off in the downtown streets, my rpm gauge needle dos'nt work and I got a cylindar not performing to well and causing my whole car to shake putting the engine under greater stress then need be but those I can handle on my own... Aww yess the sweet beauty of knowing your not done yet, life is sweet :D

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Hey guys this is an update to a previous post i had about fixing my idle probllems I could'nt remember the name of the topic so i started a new one so it would be easier with other guys to find when they put in the search terms for this particular problem.

Ok so the car (1992 sc400, 236,000 miles) use to crank and start up fine then would die on me a little while later after driving it. Then eventually it would crank but wouldnt start. And eventually it got to the point where it would not even crank. I was doing everything I could based on my self diagnosis. I ran check codes and they gave me bad o2 sensors, replaced them still nothing checked all the fuel points from fuel rail to fuel pump, ecu, etc nothing, changed spark plugs checked the timing belt for tear and made sure the teeth were properly placed, nothing So finally I said "F**k this bull sh*t, but I still love you baby". And took it to a shop called Auto Man down here in raleigh North Carolina they specialize in honda and toyota and their luxury alter egos. It turned out my throttle body was broken/bad and so they ordered a new one (used) for about 150$ I think its about 1375$ at the raleigh dealership. OK so that fixed the no cranking, no start problem but now the car is idling to low which was causing the car to cut off on me, essentially the problem was that I had a bad engine ecu. Basically that ecu was'nt communicating properly with the ICV and other parts that handle the air getting to the engine so my car was getting 'choked out'. They ordered me a new one for about 125$

and now the car starts up almost immediatly. and is back to original condition before the problem started. the total cost was 600$ parts and labor and the 60$ diagnosis fee.

However i could have saved about 200$ or more doing the labor my self. but they had to figure out the ECU was bad after replacing the throttle body and so I didnt wont to take the car and be on my own and find out there was something else and keep taking it back and forth and getting recharged for diagnosis fees, especially since I was completely lost to start with. so its drivable but not ready for showing off in the downtown streets, my rpm gauge needle dos'nt work and I got a cylindar not performing to well and causing my whole car to shake putting the engine under greater stress then need be but those I can handle on my own... Aww yess the sweet beauty of knowing your not done yet, life is sweet :D

I ended up fixing my car with an ECU also. My problem wasn't exactly the same as yours. But initially I had an intermittent no start problem, cranks just fine. Then after I changed the fuel ECU, it kinda fixed it for a while. 6 weeks ago, the car died out on me getting off the fwy. I couldnt start it again and had it towed to the shop. The next day, my

shop couldnt duplicate the problem and checked EVERYTHING. Then finally I got a hard fault of the car just not starting anymore. Cranks but wont start. They wrung out the wires, and traced it to the ECU. I wasnt as lucky as you. I bought a used ECU on Ebay. When it arrived and the shop installed the ECU, it fixed the no start problem but they heard a part loose inside the ECU. Ended up being a capacitor or resistor or something. I contacted ariparts which is the company in florida i bought the computer from, but they wont give my money back cuz the computer was opened. I lost 150 on that computer. I bought a new remand computer from Lexus, now the car is like new again.

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