lexfourcam Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Well i was eager to see if this would help and my oh my did this work miracles. my car will spin the *BLEEP* outta the tires now and it takes off soo fast now. It idles alot smoother and the dead spot has disappeared. I unplugged my maf because when i had it plugged in i got about 5 mpg.... without it being plugged in the car has soooo much more power and the gas mileage is much, much better. I think i'm gonna order a maf with a new wiring harness make it a win/win situation and finally get this car fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curiousB Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Well i was eager to see if this would help and my oh my did this work miracles. my car will spin the *BLEEP* outta the tires now and it takes off soo fast now. It idles alot smoother and the dead spot has disappeared. I unplugged my maf because when i had it plugged in i got about 5 mpg.... without it being plugged in the car has soooo much more power and the gas mileage is much, much better. I think i'm gonna order a maf with a new wiring harness make it a win/win situation and finally get this car fixed! You have good performance with the Maf disconnected? That's hard to believe. The ECU will revert to open loop and/or limp mode. You'll fail an emissions test for sure. Something really strange going on here. I would have guessed perfromance would be terrible without a MAF in the circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'95 LS400 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Congrats!!! I just had mine cleaned as well. I have 231k on mine and I was told that this was probably the first time it had been cleaned! It had a lot of buildup and my idle was at 400 rpm's when I brought it in. I got it back and it is now idling at ~600 rpm's. What a difference in power! However, I am still having problems with my power steering. It has been a rough few weeks on dumping $ into the car. Heater quit working when idling...will work when driving: common issue just replaced reservoir cap and seems to be working - Fingers are crossed! Alternator went out, oil had dripped from the valve cover and coated it - easy to replace: Great info on the site on this - Thanks Everyone for the posts! Replaced battery Valve cover gasket replaced 15k ago and leaked again, mechanic would not replace due to warranty....BS Power steering intermittent...Troubleshooting right now Check engine light on: TPS sensor - mechanic replaced twice - mechanic says it is a problem with a board??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90LS400Lexus Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Well i was eager to see if this would help and my oh my did this work miracles. my car will spin the *BLEEP* outta the tires now and it takes off soo fast now. It idles alot smoother and the dead spot has disappeared. I unplugged my maf because when i had it plugged in i got about 5 mpg.... without it being plugged in the car has soooo much more power and the gas mileage is much, much better. I think i'm gonna order a maf with a new wiring harness make it a win/win situation and finally get this car fixed! Sounds great! I knew you would be suprised! I was when I had mine done... had I known, I would have had it done years ago! It did cause a CEL code and I had to have the EGR system cleaned, but all is well now... wouldnt you know I am selling it now. <_< Congrats!!! I just had mine cleaned as well. I have 231k on mine and I was told that this was probably the first time it had been cleaned! It had a lot of buildup and my idle was at 400 rpm's when I brought it in. I got it back and it is now idling at ~600 rpm's. What a difference in power! However, I am still having problems with my power steering. It has been a rough few weeks on dumping $ into the car. Heater quit working when idling...will work when driving: common issue just replaced reservoir cap and seems to be working - Fingers are crossed! Alternator went out, oil had dripped from the valve cover and coated it - easy to replace: Great info on the site on this - Thanks Everyone for the posts! Replaced battery Valve cover gasket replaced 15k ago and leaked again, mechanic would not replace due to warranty....BS Power steering intermittent...Troubleshooting right now Check engine light on: TPS sensor - mechanic replaced twice - mechanic says it is a problem with a board??? Hmmm.... your story sounds MUCH like mine! <_< I have owned my car for over two years and have put some money into it... nothing major, but alot of little nagging things, most of which I repaired. I have had all of the power steering woes... leaks, intermittent working, etc. I had fixed the leak (was a return line, but my alternator never got leaked on), blocked the idle up valve (had started smoking on startup), then it would shudder, then the power assist of the steering would rarely work... then put on a used solenoid off of a 94 (had to change the electrical plug) and cleaned the pump screen and about a week later, I had perfect power steering again. Still have the leaky valve cover gaskets and I am sure it could use motor mounts to get the super smoothness back again. I did replace the transmission mount (super cheap and easy), fan bearing (not so cheap or easy), etc. I had a hesitation on acceleration and it was the dirty throttle body... had it cleaned and it runs super, but a check engine light came on... had to have the EGR system cleaned... so far, so good. Its to the point where I need a higher setting and larger car now and cant really afford to do what it needs, so its getting a new home this week... someone that can afford to do what I cant. I bet your power steering issue is the steering rack solenoid.... you can buy a used one, do a search. You dont have to replace the entire rack... at least I didnt on my 1991. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexfourcam Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 sounds like they didnt use the proper gasket sealing stuff that toyota sells. anytime you replace a gastket you should use some of that stuff. If it was leaking 15k after obviously they didnt do their job right. I would check your fuses and your relays. My buddy had a jeep and his horn got stuck on so he ripped out the horn itself. Little did he know it was still blaring and the relay for the horn which was right next to the fuel pump relay got really hot and heated both of them up and it resulted in fuel pump quitting until it cooled down. They replaced EVERYTHING on that car including the TPS twice. pretty funny that two teenagers outsmarted the dealership. Good luck with your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
400k Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 i cleaned my throttle body and intake after 400, 000 kms and im guessing that was the first time its been done, you couldnt even make out the throttle it was so covered, this procedure is defiantly worth it with the power you get back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 anyone take any pictures of this adventure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marklouis Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 anyone take any pictures of this adventure? Jchrome has taken great pics of his cleaning throttle body/plate procedure years ago and posted them - just tried to search for them and couldnt find em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatingupblacktop Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 This might help: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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