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Posted

Very easy. Remove wheel. Loosen the top bolt (not the 17mm) and rotate the inner caliper up. Spend a minute to understand exactly how the shims and wishbone spring are attached. Clean the boot and compress piston back into the cylinder using a c-clamp and one of the old pads. Install the new pads and rotate the caliper back into the seat and you are good to go. Very easy job.

  • Like 1
Posted

Oh yeah, when you rotate the caliper back in, push back on it as it is spring loaded.

  • Like 1
Posted

Is this for 95-97?

or first gen?

It's first gen. All of those tutorials on lexls are 90-94. May not be exactly the same but should be close?

Of course, do one side at a time. That way you have the other for comparison if you forget how something(like a clip) goes back together.

A digital camera is a wonderful tool for looking back.

Posted

It's also a good idea to remove both caliper bolts so the caliper pins can also be removed,cleaned and regreased as they can seize.

Posted

The second generation LS uses a fixed caliper, those instructions above are useless.

Remove wheel. Remove retaining clip, slide pad pins out. Gently compress the pistons in by prying on the pads a bit, the pads will lift right out. Compress all four pistons in by prying with a block of wood to keep from scratching the piston face or rotor, slide new pads in, reassemble. The caliper never has to come off the spindle. As soon as you look at it you'll clearly understand unless you're the type of person who eats glue for a living. A fixed caliper really is the easiest thing on Earth to work on.

Posted

1995 thru 1997 uses a one piece caliper and does'nt have to be removed from the vehicle in order to replace pads. If you have to replace rotors, then you will have to remove the caliper. It's attached to the knuckle by two hex head bolts.

Take note of how everything comes apart so it can be re-assembled correctly!

To replace the pads you first remove the wire retaining clip on the backside of the caliper. This wire clip goes through the small holes in the two pad retaining pins, be careful you don't break or bend it. Then pull out the two pins, they are under slight pressure from the anti rattle springs, just push down on the springs and you may have to grasp the head of the pin with a pliers and pull with a slight twisting motion.

Next, remove the anti rattle springs (take note how they lie on top of the pads) and then pull the pads upward from the caliper, doing so slowly so the anti squeal shims and spacers don't fall out all over the place, take note how they go back together.

On the passenger side pads, the inner pad will have the brake wear sensor attached to it with a small retaining clip, you will need to remove the sensor from the pad (unless you are replacing the sensor with a new one). If you are re-using the old sensor, you may need to purchase a new retainer clip because they almost always break.

To install the pads, first clean and apply an anti- squeal lubricant to the shims and assemble the new pads, shims and spacers and install the sensor and retainer into the passenger side inner pad. The sensor fits into the pad only one way, if at first it does'nt fit, turn it around and try again. Don't force it because it WILL break. Then drop them into the caliper. If they won't drop in, you may need to push the brake caliper pistons in a little. There are two pistons on each side of the caliper, a tool like a long screwdriver may work, wrap the end in tape to prevent damage to the piston. You need to push them in just far enough to slide the pad assemblies in. Once the pads are in, set the anti rattle spring on top and then insert the pins, you will need to push down on the spring as you slide the pins through and into the backside of the caliper. Once the pins are all the way through the back of the caliper, align the holes near the end of the pins so you can re-install the wire retaing clip into those holes.

Check to make sure all parts are installed correctly, then install the wheel, torquing the lugnuts a little at a time until they are tightened to 76 ft-lbs. Check the brake fluid level, then start the engine. Step down on the brake pedal several times to seat the caliper pistons and new pads. If all seems well in the driveway, take the car for a test drive. Take it easy on new pads, no hard high speed stops (unless it's an emergency!). After returning from your test drive, check brake fluid level again.

Posted
The second generation LS uses a fixed caliper, those instructions above are useless.

Remove wheel. Remove retaining clip, slide pad pins out. Gently compress the pistons in by prying on the pads a bit, the pads will lift right out. Compress all four pistons in by prying with a block of wood to keep from scratching the piston face or rotor, slide new pads in, reassemble. The caliper never has to come off the spindle. As soon as you look at it you'll clearly understand unless you're the type of person who eats glue for a living. A fixed caliper really is the easiest thing on Earth to work on.

You beat me by a few minutes! :D

Posted
1995 thru 1997 uses a one piece caliper and does'nt have to be removed from the vehicle in order to replace pads. If you have to replace rotors, then you will have to remove the caliper. It's attached to the knuckle by two hex head bolts.

Take note of how everything comes apart so it can be re-assembled correctly!

To replace the pads you first remove the wire retaining clip on the backside of the caliper. This wire clip goes through the small holes in the two pad retaining pins, be careful you don't break or bend it. Then pull out the two pins, they are under slight pressure from the anti rattle springs, just push down on the springs and you may have to grasp the head of the pin with a pliers and pull with a slight twisting motion.

Next, remove the anti rattle springs (take note how they lie on top of the pads) and then pull the pads upward from the caliper, doing so slowly so the anti squeal shims and spacers don't fall out all over the place, take note how they go back together.

On the passenger side pads, the inner pad will have the brake wear sensor attached to it with a small retaining clip, you will need to remove the sensor from the pad (unless you are replacing the sensor with a new one). If you are re-using the old sensor, you may need to purchase a new retainer clip because they almost always break.

To install the pads, first clean and apply an anti- squeal lubricant to the shims and assemble the new pads, shims and spacers and install the sensor and retainer into the passenger side inner pad. The sensor fits into the pad only one way, if at first it does'nt fit, turn it around and try again. Don't force it because it WILL break. Then drop them into the caliper. If they won't drop in, you may need to push the brake caliper pistons in a little. There are two pistons on each side of the caliper, a tool like a long screwdriver may work, wrap the end in tape to prevent damage to the piston. You need to push them in just far enough to slide the pad assemblies in. Once the pads are in, set the anti rattle spring on top and then insert the pins, you will need to push down on the spring as you slide the pins through and into the backside of the caliper. Once the pins are all the way through the back of the caliper, align the holes near the end of the pins so you can re-install the wire retaing clip into those holes.

Check to make sure all parts are installed correctly, then install the wheel, torquing the lugnuts a little at a time until they are tightened to 76 ft-lbs. Check the brake fluid level, then start the engine. Step down on the brake pedal several times to seat the caliper pistons and new pads. If all seems well in the driveway, take the car for a test drive. Take it easy on new pads, no hard high speed stops (unless it's an emergency!). After returning from your test drive, check brake fluid level again.

thanks, it sounds like the old man can do it.. at least I am familiar with all the terms you used..

  • 7 years later...
Posted

My 1990 ls400 was a breeze to do, you might need to have a heat torch for one or both of the screws that hold the rotors on as they may be frozen. All I did was take off the caliper bolts, slid it up, slid the old pads out, which were beeeeyyyoooooonnnndddddd shot (if I can post pics I will), took out the caliper bracket bolts, took it out, replaced all the shims, took out the screws for the rotors, grabbed my new hardware(pads and rotors) and then put it all back together. Was a hour long job that I turned into two hours from picture taking and debating if they were the original pads and rotors, which wouldn't surprise me from the other stuff I found on it.

20170102_162411.jpg

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