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Posted
Thats awesome, it seems like Lexus cars will heal themselves. My brothers ES300 was doing the same thing with the valve cover gaskets for a few months, but now it has stopped. B)

lol... thats what I was thinking, but today when in a drive-thru, I noticed a puff of smoke blow out from under the hood. :( So maybe its not healed itself. Strange, because when most cars have leaky valve covers, its more of a steady smoke, but on this car its occasional heavier puffs of smoke that come and go every so often. Maybe its where its coming off as a drip from somewhere and onto the manifold or muffler.

Damn that sucks, hope I did not jinks you? :whistles:


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Posted
I just finished my 97 DWP LS, it didnt need a trans mount, the one I took out looked just like the new one. so I put it back in. I have only owned this one a few months and it looks like it has been taken care of....

so I have an extra tranny mount, fit 95 & up, several models

this is an OEM Lexus part. 12371-50060 (part #)

45.00 mailed anywhere in the 48 states. if you want it.

So it will fit a 98 LS? If so I am very interested!

Posted
I just finished my 97 DWP LS, it didnt need a trans mount, the one I took out looked just like the new one. so I put it back in. I have only owned this one a few months and it looks like it has been taken care of....

so I have an extra tranny mount, fit 95 & up, several models

this is an OEM Lexus part. 12371-50060 (part #)

45.00 mailed anywhere in the 48 states. if you want it.

So it will fit a 98 LS? If so I am very interested!

yes, fits 95-2000 for sure.

sorry, I sold it..

Posted

Yeah, the 1990-94 mounts are the same and the 1995-99 mounts are the same. They look identical, but there is somehow a slight difference.

Posted

Hi Fellas,

My engine mounts and transmission mount came in today.

I got them from Car Stuff:

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=10991+42...1656+11921+9200

Even though the part is made or sold by MTC, it has a Lexus part number made into it. MTC must be making the Original Equipment for Lexus I suppose, either that or they get it from the same manufacturer.

Engine mount - 12361-50100 on one side and 12361-50021 or 50050 on the other side. Sticker on package says 12361-50100.

Both front mounts are exactly the same.

Transmission mount - 12371-50010. Same number as on sticker on package.

Decent price for (I am assuming) original equipment.

I'll let you know what it takes to change them, and hopefully it will smooth out my ride.

Jerry

Posted

Late getting back to this, sorry to hear for those ordering the Adus parts that they're no longer available through mybushings.com. Armstrong Distributors (some random company I found searching) shows them, but they don't have any online ordering capability. I've emailed them to see how to order or what's required.

Funny thing is Adus doesn't have a website or any company information online. Several places sell their bushings for numerous vehicles, but mybushings.com was the first place to offer the engine/transmission mounts. I had no clue they were available until finding them on there. Otherwise you could just contact them directly, but that's not the case here.

Posted
Late getting back to this, sorry to hear for those ordering the Adus parts that they're no longer available through mybushings.com. Armstrong Distributors (some random company I found searching) shows them, but they don't have any online ordering capability. I've emailed them to see how to order or what's required.

Funny thing is Adus doesn't have a website or any company information online. Several places sell their bushings for numerous vehicles, but mybushings.com was the first place to offer the engine/transmission mounts. I had no clue they were available until finding them on there. Otherwise you could just contact them directly, but that's not the case here.

let us know if you find them.

Posted

Hi Guys,

Changed the transmission mount today.

It is like night and day!

Problems I was having:

1. Vibration

2. Could hear transmission whirring as it worked.

3. Seemed to shift hard. You could feel it.

4. Sounded like I had an exhaust leak.

5. Noise when I turned the A/C compressor on.

All the engine noise was amplified through the transmission resting on the crossmember which is underneath the front seats. The metal on the transmission mount was resting on the crossmember.

Actually when I pulled the crossmember loose I did not unbolt the mount, but when I pulled the crossmember loose it dropped along with the bottom part of the mount. The mount was so bad it was in two pieces.

In this first picture you can see the bottom part of the mount is still attached to the crossmember with the top part in front and the new part out to the right side.

post-99629-1252031008_thumb.jpg

This next picture shows a close up of where it was rubbing metal to metal. It was three spots, the very center, above and below. This is what causes all of the problems.

post-99629-1252030985_thumb.jpg

And here is a top view of the situation.

post-99629-1252030951_thumb.jpg

My Lexus now has a smooth quiet ride and I haven't changed the engine mounts yet. I will try to get to them this weekend if I can squeeze it in.

How to test if your mount is bad:

Put the car up on stands and climb underneath. Grab the transmission at the driveshaft and push up and let it fall down. If you hear a clunk, it is hitting metal on metal and you need to change the mount. At the most, a 15 minute job. Super easy, no pictures required, just keep the transmission supported as you drop the crossmember.

Jerry

Posted
Hi Guys,

Changed the transmission mount today.

It is like night and day!

Problems I was having:

1. Vibration

2. Could hear transmission whirring as it worked.

3. Seemed to shift hard. You could feel it.

4. Sounded like I had an exhaust leak.

5. Noise when I turned the A/C compressor on.

All the engine noise was amplified through the transmission resting on the crossmember which is underneath the front seats. The metal on the transmission mount was resting on the crossmember.

Actually when I pulled the crossmember loose I did not unbolt the mount, but when I pulled the crossmember loose it dropped along with the bottom part of the mount. The mount was so bad it was in two pieces.

In this first picture you can see the bottom part of the mount is still attached to the crossmember with the top part in front and the new part out to the right side.

post-99629-1252031008_thumb.jpg

This next picture shows a close up of where it was rubbing metal to metal. It was three spots, the very center, above and below. This is what causes all of the problems.

post-99629-1252030985_thumb.jpg

And here is a top view of the situation.

post-99629-1252030951_thumb.jpg

My Lexus now has a smooth quiet ride and I haven't changed the engine mounts yet. I will try to get to them this weekend if I can squeeze it in.

How to test if your mount is bad:

Put the car up on stands and climb underneath. Grab the transmission at the driveshaft and push up and let it fall down. If you hear a clunk, it is hitting metal on metal and you need to change the mount. At the most, a 15 minute job. Super easy, no pictures required, just keep the transmission supported as you drop the crossmember.

Jerry

Good job, it was really used up...

you need to give the folks your website . http://www.gracebiblestudy.net/

put it in your signature..

you never know who the Spirit will lead to it.

cheers, bp

Posted

Hi Guys,

Well, I changed the engine mounts today and as you would expect, it was a pain. Took about 3 hours.

But the results were worth it. Now my Lexus rides like a Lexus. Super smooth and quiet. The best it has ever been since I bought the car.

I forgot to bring my camera to work with me, but the engine mounts were just like the transmission mount - broke in two pieces. I'm surprised the engine didn't do a somersault when I gunned it, all the mounts were broke loose.

If anyone needs the info, just let me know and I will give a step by step how to do this yourself.

Jerry

Posted

Hi killerFatty,

I got your personal message, hopefully you got my reply.

A quick test to see if your mounts are bad:

I noticed before I added the new mounts that when I went to jack up the car by the suspension crossmember I had to get really low to see beyond the oil pan to place the jack on the crossmember. Now that I have changed the mounts, the engine sits up much higher. I can see the crossmember very easily. The engine is sitting about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher.

So if you look under your vehicle with the engine splash shield off and look level and you cannot see the crossmember behind the oil pan, then your engine mounts are going flat. The new mounts cause the engine to sit up higher and you can clearly see the crossmember behind the oil pan. This is not a definite, but it will give you a basic idea of what to look for. As the engine mounts wear out, they get flatter and lower the engine. As they get flatter, you have less cushion between the engine and the body which will give you more engine vibration.

In order to change the engine mounts on a 1st Generation LS 400 there are a few things that must first be considered.

The engine has to be supported. I used an engine hoist which is probably the best and safest way. It might be possible to use a floor jack from underneath, but I do not recommend it. I have seen many times where certain engines can be supported by the oil pan, but I do not know if the 400 is one of them. It is best to use an engine hoist. Supporting the engine from underneath will also get in the way since all work has to be done underneath the vehicle. The legs of the hoist are bad enough.

I decided to start on the right side (passenger) for it looked the easiest and had the most clearance.

RIGHT SIDE

1. Jack up the vehicle and support the vehicle with stands. Be sure to apply the parking brake. Allow yourself enough room to climb under it and work. Put the stands under rocker panel or the frame rails behind the front wheels. Disconnect the battery. Remove the engine splash shield.

2. Unbolt the engine mounts at the bottom at the suspension crossmember with a 17mm socket.

3. Using the hoist, attach the chain to the hooks on the engine and hoist the engine up. As you hoist the engine up, grab the cooling fan behind the radiator at the top and move it until it hits the fan shroud. After it touches the fan shroud, you can apply just a little more pressure to the hoist but this is the maximum height that you can go with the engine.

4. Unbolt the suspension crossmember. (17mm) It's only four nuts. Drop it as far as you can on the right side and this will give you the clearance you need to get the old mount out and the new mount in.

5. There is a grounding wire attached to the engine mount bracket in the front. Unbolt it with a 12mm socket.

6. There really is not enough room to get a wrench in there so I used a swivel socket to unbolt the bracket from the engine. It is a 14mm head on the bolt but I did not have a 14mm swivel socket but I did have a 9/16 swivel socket that worked fine.

7. After you unbolt the bracket from the engine, you can remove the bracket/mount assembly from the rear of the crossmember. The front is too crowded.

8. Change the new mount onto the bracket and reverse the order for installation. Do not bolt up the crossmember yet.

Note** There might be a different way to do this which I will explain shortly.

LEFT SIDE

This one is a little bit more complicated.

1. At the top of the steering rack there is a bolt that holds the steering shaft to the rack gearbox. If you wheels are pointed straight, turn the steering wheel a half a turn and the bolt will line up where you can unbolt it from the left side. The shaft will have to slide off of the gearbox just a little.

2. Unbolt the left shock absorber at the bottom. This will help you get a little more clearance to lower the crossmember a little more.

3. There is a wire harness that goes to the steering rack. Close to the steering rack there is a connector in the wire harness. You do not need to brake loose the connection but rather just unclip it from it's mounting bracket. This will help give more clearance.

4. On the front of the crossmember there is another wire harness attached by three bolts. Take these loose so you can move the wire harness when the time comes.

5. There is a small bracket attached to the crossmember that helps to hold the engine splash shield in place. You will know which one it is when you go to take the mount out. It's in the way, just one bolt.

6. Now you can look at the mount and say, "There is no way that is coming out!" That's what I said. It doesn't seem that you can get to the 4 bracket bolts. **But here is what I tried and it worked. I left the bracket alone and used a 17mm wrench and went directly to the top of the mount where it bolts to the bracket. If you have your wrench facing the rear of the vehicle you can get in there and just barely put your wrench on the nut. Try to use your finger to hold the wrench on the nut. Use the box end, it has to have a slight angle to the wrench and be sure it is a 12 point. Very slowly I was able to get it to turn and work it little by little and I finally got it off and the mount came down from the bracket. Now instead of the mount coming out from the rear as it did on the right side, it is going to have to come out from the front of the crossmember on the left side.

Before you put the new mount back in, take the nut and run it up and down the threads a few times to make sure it is nice and easy to turn because you need to use your fingers to get it hand tight. As on the right side, don't forget to put the heat shield and brace back in.

NOTE**

I did not try this method on the right side. I suppose if it works on the left it should also work on the right.

After both mounts are put in place, you can now try to raise the crossmember back to its original position. You might need to pry the engine forward or backward to get the mount studs to line up with the holes in the crossmember. Tighten the crossmember nuts and lower the engine into place. After the engine falls into place then you can attach everything back like it was.

DON'T FORGET THE STEERING SHAFT BOLT!

If you also had to change the transmission mount, you will notice a completely different ride than you had before. Before I changed all my mounts the car was noisy and vibrated really bad. Now it is smooth and quiet like a Lexus should be. It was definitely worth all the trouble and expense to get it done.

Just one more step to restoring my 1991 Lexus LS 400.

This week I changed the transmission mounts, engine mounts, power steering control valve with new vacuum hoses (no more smoke), gave the transmission a fluid transfusion, and changed the differential oil.

Next week (hopefully) I'll change the climate control LED and maybe by the end of the month have a fresh paint job.

Little by little, one step at a time. The old girl is really starting to shape up.

Jerry

Posted
I just finished my 97 DWP LS, it didnt need a trans mount, the one I took out looked just like the new one. so I put it back in. I have only owned this one a few months and it looks like it has been taken care of....

WOW, I just finished replaceing the tranny mount on the OWP LS400, and it came off in two pieces

(see below) so it should be ok for the rest of my life...

post-5365-1252420632_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hi Bill,

Did it seem to help out on any vibration or noise? From your picture I could not tell if it was rubbing metal on metal. It did not seem to be.

Jerry

Posted
Hi Bill,

Did it seem to help out on any vibration or noise? From your picture I could not tell if it was rubbing metal on metal. It did not seem to be.

Jerry

No Jerry, I was not having any vibration or noise, I am just a maintainance type guy. even the timing belt and waterpump I put on the other 97 looked new. I just didnt know for sure when it had been done. but now I do.

thanks, bill

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

ok so this weekend will be the tranny mount replacement...then i got to check my motor mounts to see if they need replacement too...i've got 235,000 on my 93 ls400.. looks like a pain in the as* to do the motor mounts!

Posted
ok so this weekend will be the tranny mount replacement...then i got to check my motor mounts to see if they need replacement too...i've got 235,000 on my 93 ls400.. looks like a pain in the as* to do the motor mounts!

The engine mount is... which is why everyone hates changing them.

I may have a used (almost brand new) tranny mount soon if I part my car out. I paid $62 for it + tax, but will sell it much cheaper.

Posted

HEY 90LS400LEXUS...I HAVE TRYED TO SEND YOU A MESSAGE BUTYOUR INBOX IS FULL...HOW OLD IS YOUR MOUNT AND HOW MUCH DO YOU WANT FOR IT??? WILL YOUR YEAR CAR FIT MY 93 LS400?? THANKS, RANDY


Posted
HEY 90LS400LEXUS...I HAVE TRYED TO SEND YOU A MESSAGE BUTYOUR INBOX IS FULL...HOW OLD IS YOUR MOUNT AND HOW MUCH DO YOU WANT FOR IT??? WILL YOUR YEAR CAR FIT MY 93 LS400?? THANKS, RANDY

90-94, same part.

Posted

Got my tranny mount put in yesterday! Wow what a difference, I did not know it could get even smoother.

I was going to do a step by step tutorial but my camera was giving me a bad time so I couldn't, but like everyone else has said, it is very easy to do. Took me abut 20 mins from start to finish and I was in no hurry.

Posted
HEY 90LS400LEXUS...I HAVE TRYED TO SEND YOU A MESSAGE BUTYOUR INBOX IS FULL...HOW OLD IS YOUR MOUNT AND HOW MUCH DO YOU WANT FOR IT??? WILL YOUR YEAR CAR FIT MY 93 LS400?? THANKS, RANDY

Randy, the mount is only a month old, with about 100 miles on it, but I think I have the car repaired and wont be parting it out now. It turned out being a $1.90 hose and not the $290. high pressure line like I thought.

You can buy a mount (Toyota OEM) for $62 at Lexus of Pembroke Pines.

Posted

Ok thanks... Lucky for you that it was something cheap $1.70 is alot better than $300.00,and you can keep your car!!!! Thanks for the offer anyway.

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