tmastres Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 I recently replaced the Air/Fuel ratio sensor and thought I would consolidate all the info I found as well as my experience into one post for future reference. 2000 RX 300 with 119,000 miles. Symptoms pre-code or CEL: One morning I noticed the RX was idling really high when cold. More than the normal increased cold- idle, it was up around 1700-1800rpm. After driving 5 miles to work, the idle was still a bit higher than normal. Later that evening the idle was back up to the 1600-1700 for the drive home. No CEL yet. Exact same thing the next day, still no CEL. Wife took the car that evening to run an errand (of course) CEL comes on. Read the code , P1150 front bank air/fuel ratio sensor. After searching the site it was revealed that this is the sensor right in front(yes!). Just past the radiator/fans sticking out of the front bank exhaust manifold with wires coming out of it. Re-set the code and took the car to work again and begun searching for a replacement part, ide was still a bit high. My semi-local Lexus dealer, 30 miles away quoted $250 for the part. My uncooperative Toyota dealer 4 miles away wouldn't quote me a price for a part to put in a Lexus (a$$holes). Cliffs notes version, after checking the usual Sewell, Park Place etc I found the part at www.factorylexusparts.com for $160. This is actually a shell site for Lexus of Roseville CA. I had to pay shipping AND tax but it still came in under $180. Part Number Toyota 89467-48011 or Denso 234-9009 I went with the Toyota but you may be able to find the Denso for about 10-15% less Doing the replacement was quite straightforward. Some folks noted that they had a hard time getting the old sensor out. Some even mentioned they had to heat the whole area up with a torch to loosen the sensor. I got mine out fairly easily using an 8 inch adjustable (crescent) wrench and a 3 foot length of 1" steel pipe to use as a breaker bar. Snug up the wrench around the sensor, attach the bar and a good tug yielded the satisfying pop of the nut breaking loose. Unscrewed the sensor the rest of the way and inserted the new one. The hardest part of the whole operation for me was (as usual) the fact that this car is made to be worked on by midgets. No offense to midgets (or little people) but normal human male hands are a severe hinderance when working on these vehicles. I had a particularly difficult time releasing the quick-release connector connecting the old sensor wires to the wiring bundle. After that though is was cake. So far, everything is running fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenore Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 As usual, great post, thank yu for the feedback. I live less than 2 miles from that dealership. The dealership sucks, but apparently their parts online is great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
code58 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Tmastres- You live in Cal., and though close to the ocean, it still doesn't have any of the rust problems that most of the people who had seized A/F sensors. Mostly from the Rust Belt. I replaced both in my DIL's RX and had no problem at all, came right out with a box wrench. I'm the one who suggested using an acetylene torch, but that was for the guys who were complaining about being seized tight, unable to move, even with rust buster. Shouldn't have that problem in most of Cal. anyway. You really lucked out being a front sensor, as apposed to the rear one. Glad it worked out for you, even without the help of the Toyota dealer. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmastres Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 Thanks guys, just trying to put as much info in one spot as possible. Yeah, I'm worried about the rear one, I'll have to crawl under there and check out its location just to see how big a pain it will be. If they're anything like the coils, the rear one will be going sooner rather than later. The Toyota dealer frustrates me because they're so close, I know they've got to have this part and its not like there's a Lexus dealer all that close by. I realize they may be trying to keep business going to the generally more expensive Lexus dealers and I might even have a modicum of understanding but if you've got a CEL or in the case of my coil failure, you're running on 5 cylinders, it seems ridiculous to refuse to sell parts to a customer of what is essentially the parent company of both places. Sorry for the Rant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenore Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 The easy way is to tell them you have a highlander, then it is no problem..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
code58 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 The easy way is to tell them you have a highlander, then it is no problem..... Very true Lenore, The Toyota dealer close to me doesn't seem to have a problem with selling parts for the RX, but 1 problem seems to be that they are not provided with parts books for the Lexus, so even if they suspicion the part may cross over, they have no way of confirming that. If you have the old part or the correct # they can probably supply if they stock it, but no way to look it up. Not like GM where most GM dealers could order for any GM car, no matter what the sign out front said. I think Ford is the same. Not so with Toyota/Lexus. Interestingly, when I got the last timing belt for the RX, they had no way to look it up at Toyota, so I just said give me one for a Sequoia, and it was correct, though it had a different part # on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
code58 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Thanks guys, just trying to put as much info in one spot as possible. Yeah, I'm worried about the rear one, I'll have to crawl under there and check out its location just to see how big a pain it will be. If they're anything like the coils, the rear one will be going sooner rather than later. The Toyota dealer frustrates me because they're so close, I know they've got to have this part and its not like there's a Lexus dealer all that close by. I realize they may be trying to keep business going to the generally more expensive Lexus dealers and I might even have a modicum of understanding but if you've got a CEL or in the case of my coil failure, you're running on 5 cylinders, it seems ridiculous to refuse to sell parts to a customer of what is essentially the parent company of both places. Sorry for the Rant! Tmastres- Remember 1 thing about the A/F ratio sensor, if the code is for the heater in it (as was the code that you got, heater specific), it has little affect on the running, and won't really ever affect much of anything if you didn't change it. That is only for the codes that designate heater, not the other functions of the sensor. If you research how a wide band A/F rs functions, you'll understand why. If in a real cold climate or in the winter, it will make a little difference in how it runs, but won't hurt anything. My suggestion would be when you crawl under to take a look, shoot the threads with some rust buster of some type. Then get a sensor socket and try and break it loose. You're operating on your time table, not it's. when you HAVE to change it you know it will come out. Harbour Freight Tools sells a really nice sensor socket for about $5. You really should use a sensor socket because when you put the new one in there isn't a chance of damaging it like there is with a crescent wrench. Don't want to have buy a new $180. sensor for the lack of a $5. correct socket. The one from HF is really nice quality too. You do have to be careful what kind of chemicals or products you use around any of the sensors because they can be contaminated and rendered worthless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmastres Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 Great advice Code, thanks and thanks for adding it to this thread. Awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmastres Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 The easy way is to tell them you have a highlander, then it is no problem..... I think I'll do that from now on. Do they have the exact same engines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
code58 Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Great advice Code, thanks and thanks for adding it to this thread. Awesome. The thing you need to look for when you buy engine gasket silicone or any other product for cleaning or sealing is to check for "sensor safe" on the can or package. It's not just for that which is in direct contact with with the sensors, but even if used to seal the pan for instance (they use silicone in the building of the engine on the pan in place of a gasket), because the fumes from that can get in the crankcase and eventually out the exhaust and contaminate the sensors and destroy them. Anything used around the engine that has that potential should have "sensor safe" on it, or don't use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenore Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 The easy way is to tell them you have a highlander, then it is no problem..... I think I'll do that from now on. Do they have the exact same engines? The engines are the same 1mezfe. The only difference I saw was the motor mounts.... just specify 6cylinder, as the Highlander has also the four cyclinder offered in their vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PowerDimeDaddy Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Thanks so much, tmastres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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