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Check Engine Light Po430 2002 Es300. Obd Software Screen Shots.


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2002 ES300, 154,000 miles (all highway)

I got this CEL - PO430 - Catalyst efficiency below treshhold ( Bank 2 ).

(i've been getting 25-27 mpgs, calculated at the pump, not sure if this is important)

I ordered OBD II --> USB reader off ebay for 25$ shipped and installed this software: OBD 2007

software manual: http://rapidshare.com/files/257591733/OBD_...ogram_Guide.pdf

209135555o3970225397733.jpg

I am trying to figure out why i Have PO430 and why it randomly appears/disappears. If this was a cat converter wouldnt i have CEL permanently?

I took some screen shots, this is my first time running such extensive OBD diagnostics. Please take a look and comment if you have an idea about what might be going on here or what other tests i should do to troubleshoot this...

(i must say the software is pretty cool and very user friendly, tons of cool features to play with)

codew.jpg

dashboard.jpg

610 rpm:

freezedataat600rpm.jpg

2200rpm:

freezedataat22krpm.jpg

data snap shot (stored in the ECU) when the PO430 code came up for a first time, i do remember being on the highway and driving at 75mph when this happened:

freezeframeat25krpm.jpg

not sure what this is:

notsure.jpg

O2 sensors while revving up 600->1400rpm:

sensors6001400rpm.jpg

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It looks like they did a good job with the gui interface. I notice in the top bar that it is in evaluation mode, how much do they want to fully enable it?

As far as the data, (which there is a lot), is there a page that tells you the O2 sensor cross counts? The one thing that I see that I would look into is the long term fuel trim for bank 2. If I am reading it right, at 600 rpm it is 7% and 2k it is 3%. I would look for a vac leak. Use a un-lite propane torch to see if you can find where it is leaking.

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It looks like they did a good job with the gui interface. I notice in the top bar that it is in evaluation mode, how much do they want to fully enable it?

As far as the data, (which there is a lot), is there a page that tells you the O2 sensor cross counts? The one thing that I see that I would look into is the long term fuel trim for bank 2. If I am reading it right, at 600 rpm it is 7% and 2k it is 3%. I would look for a vac leak. Use a un-lite propane torch to see if you can find where it is leaking.

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hi george,

i think its $80 for the software, GUI is pretty nice indeed (i installed a few other programs and they were n't as nice, and most did not even work with this particular scanner).

I also noticed somewhat high LTFT at lower rpm... so ECU is trying to add more fuel to keep at stoich air:fuel ratio at low rpm, than at high rpm? ( if i understand correctly). do you mean leak somewhere in the air intake? Wouldnt i see higher LTFT on the bank 1 as well if there was vac leak?

Never used propane torch to find a leak .. how do i do that?

thank you!

p.s. i will check if it can do O2 sensor cross counts. i dont remember seeing them though...

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7% is high, and if you notice at the higher rpm the trim goes lower. That is a good indication of a leak. Now if the leak was close to the throttle body, I would expect to see both banks adding fuel, but if the leak is closer to the cylinder head I would expect it to affect one bank more.

The idea of the propane torch (do not light it, of course). You spray propane around the intake manifold and anywhere else you could have a leak. If there is a leak, the propane will be sucked in and burned. You should hear a change in idle. I would also suspect that you would see it on the scanner.

I have seen techs use brake cleaner, and starter fluid, but these leave liquid on the engine. If the spark plug wires are in poor shape, a spark can ignite it, (I have seen this once). So I perfer propane, the propane can still ignite, but all you have to do is move the bottle to stop the fire. Of course the underside of the runners are had to check with this method.

How does the engine run overall? Has there been any other work to the engine in the last several months? How is your exhaust system overall? I realize that they salt the roads up there in your area. And are the O2 sensor original? (not that I think that is a problem at this time, it acts more like a intake leak.

Oh and the reason that it affects the low rpm more than the high is because with a leak, at low rpm you have less air flowing pass the throttle. At higher rpm there is much more flow. A leaking seal will tend to flow a set amount dependant on manifold pressure. At the higher rpm you have more flow to mix with the leak. Or at least that is my understanding of how it works. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure thats how it works.

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i understand that propane test should be done quickly, after the engine is strated. otherwise things will get hot and i could set the car on fire ...

regarding the rust, the underside looks ok, exhaust is quiet, the car was always garaged before me so that helped preserve it somewhat.

there was no engine work done, just an oil change/filter,burnt out headlight bulb was replaced recently.

the thing is this code showed up first time in early may and then disappeared for a couple of weeks then re-appeared again. so looks like the leak is not consistent.?

p.s. i just noticed that air intake temp value is way too high at 160F..!?!

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The air temp ,normally runs a little high, I would not be too concerned. The components under the hood act as a heatsink. In your engine the air temp sensor is built into the aif flow meter, the sensor ends up sensing it's temp instead of the air temp. You could try scanning the engine first thing in the morning, when everything is cold. See if it is reading a little more accurate then.

I also would not be concerned about the propane, catching fire, it takes quite a bit of heat to ignite. It would be much more likely that a direct spark would set it off, and then of course you only need to pull the torch away from the engine. With the fan going, and the hood open, there is little chance that enough will collect to be a problem. If you are concerned about it, you might want to use another fan to circulate more air for your own piece of mind.

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what i dont understand is if i have a vacuum leak, why then the CEL light turns off for several weeks then comes back on..? If it is a leak then its not constant..... it seems like there could be something else malfunctioning

I also noticed that when i get CEL my average mpg numbers go down by ~2mpg, which makes sense since it injects more fuel according to the trim numbers.

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