Rx400h Wood-trim "re-dye" *pics*

[cduluk]

Well the etching primer is green, not clear. So you can't use the primer and then the vht stain paint- unless you're ditching it?

You can wetsand before the primer, it'll help the adhesion.

The two-part clear doesn't "need" to be heated to cure, it just accelerates the process. It's pretty cool to paint them and be able to use them less than an hour later <_<

[muffalones]

Makes sense. Yeah, I was thinking of ditching the tinting paint since I put so much of it on that it didn't really "tint" at all. After I was done I was thinking that it looked like I just used regular black spray paint anyway.

I found some Duplicolor self-etching primer and I just bought a quart of clear and a 1/2 pint of activator for $34 (w/ ship) off ebay. I also found a nice airbrush from michael's (thanks!) for pretty cheap with coupon. Now I just need to rent a compressor and get a machine polisher. This is getting expensive....

I was thinking of getting a porter cable 7424XP. I figure if I didn't want it after polishing the trim I could just put it on ebay. What kind of pads would I need to use with the 3M scratch remover? There's what: cutting, light cutting, very light cutting, finishing, light finishing, polishing........ kind of confusing even after a few hours of reading on autogeek.net.

I'm really dreading painting the cup holder since I'll kind of have to prop it open to expose the ends.

[cduluk]

Makes sense. Yeah, I was thinking of ditching the tinting paint since I put so much of it on that it didn't really "tint" at all. After I was done I was thinking that it looked like I just used regular black spray paint anyway.

I found some Duplicolor self-etching primer and I just bought a quart of clear and a 1/2 pint of activator for $34 (w/ ship) off ebay. I also found a nice airbrush from michael's (thanks!) for pretty cheap with coupon. Now I just need to rent a compressor and get a machine polisher. This is getting expensive....

I was thinking of getting a porter cable 7424XP. I figure if I didn't want it after polishing the trim I could just put it on ebay. What kind of pads would I need to use with the 3M scratch remover? There's what: cutting, light cutting, very light cutting, finishing, light finishing, polishing........ kind of confusing even after a few hours of reading on autogeek.net.

I'm really dreading painting the cup holder since I'll kind of have to prop it open to expose the ends.

What kind of clear did you get? Is it the dupont stuff i use? That price is AWESOME if so.

I just bought myself a new airbrush at Michael's yesterday with a 50% off coupon too!! It's the Badger 155, internal mix. It's the same one i've been using for the past year or so, i LOVE it. Michael's price was about $200 and i payed less than $100 for it I have NO idea how Michael's makes any money, they give out so many coupons... I did notice they're only giving out $20 off ones for next week though lol.

As for the compressor, any will do just as long as you make sure to drain the moisture inside, otherwise you'll get a lot of orange peel in the finish. I use my airbrush at about 100psi when it's been used for a while (performs less and less as it ages) and bump the pressure down to 60 when it's brand new. There's nothing like a new airbrush :D

And make sure to have enough acetone before your project, i end up going through SO much of it as i use it to clean out the airbrush and remove paint from unwanted areas etc... The acetone is really expensive, about $15 for a jug... but it's the best. And make sure not to let it touch any plastics as it'll melt it ;)

For the machine polisher, there's quite a few ways to go about it. In the machine polish world, there are two general types- dual action and rotary. Dual action means the disc kind of oscillates- maybe 20 degrees left and 20 degrees right, never making a 360 degree rotation. Then there's the rotary which rotates in only one direction with adjustable speed. I like the rotary myself because it's much more powerful and gets the job done quicker, but it's a dangerous tool and can cause a lot of harm to you and the paint if you don't know what you're doing lol... I've had it "catch" a sharp corner, whip, and almost take my arm off (breaking the pad). And if the speed is set too high and you leave it in one spot for too long, you can mar the finish or burn right through the paint. The thing's got a LOT or torque as well as speed... But if you've got practice and be careful it can be the best tool in the world. :) If you've used one before, then it's the best choice. If not, i'd suggest practicing with it for a while. Soon you'll get the hang of it and feel confident to use it on your project.

As for the pads, i use a 6" (could be 8", don't remember) foam pad on my rotary. I hate the cotton or fabric ones, they break apart so easily and always seem to fly off no matter how tight you have it... I've had my rotary for about 2 years, and still use the SAME pad i started with. It's never been removed, never been cleaned, it has broken once (caught it on an edge of something i was buffing!!) and it broke off at the base. I was in urgent need to finish the buffing, so i glued the damn thing back on with plastic welder so i could finish the project. Well, i never got around to buying a new pad so i've been using the repaired one since then lol... This happened maybe 6 months ago? lol. It's a complete mess but it works! Just used it a few hours today actually finishing my new steering wheel!! (pics coming soon). The thing works great, it's up there in my favorite tools category. I remember i got it on ebay for less than $100 and the pad i got separately also on ebay, but i don't remember the product names, and the labels on the rotary and pad are no longer existent lol. I'm sure any foam pad will do. The key is using the compound (scratch remover) to get the sandpaper scratches out. The compound does the work, not the pad. As soon as the pad gets dry, you've gotta add more compound on the pad or you'll mar the paint. Also make sure not to put it face-down on the ground as any sand or dirt on the pad will scratch the finish. At first i thought i'd be cleaning my pad all the time, but i haven't done it once and my finishes still come out perfect lol...

It's also a messy project, the compound always gets splashed everywhere :( Make sure to wear clothes you don't care about! lol :P

And yeah, it's gonna suck having to paint the center cup-holder piece lol. I'd suggest pushing the end with the chrome sliver down (revealing the 90 degree front part, and paint), then let go (quickly shutting it, as it'll want to open) and paint the rest of it.

Here's some pics of my rotary.

My repair lol...

My workshop! Messy, but gets the job done... lol And oh yeah! Get a lot of rubber gloves. Powder free and make sure acetone doesn't melt them... you'll use a lotta gloves lol.

Some steering wheel's i've worked on...

My new airbrush :D you can see the old one in the back...

My compressor from 1973. literally lol... Works like a charm though!

[muffalones]

That's awesome. I love your workshop, especially the gloves all over the place.

I actually got the same airbrush as you from michaels. That makes me feel a lot better about spending the money. I also bought a drill attachment for the CCS buffer pads and I'm going to attempt to polish the trim with the drill. I guess I'll have to be pretty careful with it, but it will save me a lot of money.

The clear I got was the Dupont Nason 496-00 and the 483-78 activator, like you recommended. I guess it was actually $32. This guy on ebay has sold quite a few kits with both and has perfect feedback. In case anyone reading this wants to get some here's a link to his ebay store:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Wholesale-Auto...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1

I used a ton of acetone just painting the shifter pieces and it REALLY came in handy! (I think I'd do a much better job now). Luckily the smallest size I found was a gallon so I still have pretty much left.

So now my question is where are the screws you need to get at to take out the center console and rear cup holder?

Also how did you keep the silver tab on the cupholder? I don't care much if I have to paint over it I just was surprised to see it still there in your pics.

can't wait to see your next project....

[cduluk]

That's awesome. I love your workshop, especially the gloves all over the place.

I actually got the same airbrush as you from michaels. That makes me feel a lot better about spending the money. I also bought a drill attachment for the CCS buffer pads and I'm going to attempt to polish the trim with the drill. I guess I'll have to be pretty careful with it, but it will save me a lot of money.

The clear I got was the Dupont Nason 496-00 and the 483-78 activator, like you recommended. I guess it was actually $32. This guy on ebay has sold quite a few kits with both and has perfect feedback. In case anyone reading this wants to get some here's a link to his ebay store:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Wholesale-Auto...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1

I used a ton of acetone just painting the shifter pieces and it REALLY came in handy! (I think I'd do a much better job now). Luckily the smallest size I found was a gallon so I still have pretty much left.

So now my question is where are the screws you need to get at to take out the center console and rear cup holder?

Also how did you keep the silver tab on the cupholder? I don't care much if I have to paint over it I just was surprised to see it still there in your pics.

can't wait to see your next project....

Awesome! :) You'll love the airbrush and that clear, it works so well! And the drill attachment should work fine for polishing- anything to mimic doing it by hand just a little faster will work.

To remove the center console, on the bottom left and right there's a panel that can be removed using a flathead screwdriver (clips only). Then you'll see 3 10mm bolts holding the console to the bottom frame, on both sides. Then the console should be able to be lifted up. But there's a wire (with a ball on the end) that goes from the console to the frame of the car (controls something, forget what). Just unhook the wire from the frame. At this point you should be able to remove the console from the car. Then you can mask off and paint etc. Putting it back in the car's a bit of a challenge with the wire and all, but it's not that bad.

And for the rear seat cup holder, if you open it, you'll see two screws on the bottom (i think?) just pop those out, and it should come right out (maybe with help from a flat-head, i don't remember exactly).

As for the chrome sliver on the wood cupholder piece, i actually had to make my own and put it back on. Bought some chrome tape from autozone (comes in a roll, used for pinstripes etc) and cut out a piece the same size, and put it on the clear. It's not embossed under the clear, but it looks great :)

Now that you've got the airbrush and hard clear, you can try painting the steering wheel too :) As soon as you've got it off the car, you're half-way there. I then tighten it in the vice (see it on my workshop), mask off the leather (which can take about a half hour, gotta get it perfect!) wetsand the clear and paint and clear. If you start in the morning, you can have it painted, baked and un-masked by the evening- might be best so you don't have to do without the car for long :)

[richberman]

That's awesome. I love your workshop, especially the gloves all over the place.

I actually got the same airbrush as you from michaels. That makes me feel a lot better about spending the money. I also bought a drill attachment for the CCS buffer pads and I'm going to attempt to polish the trim with the drill. I guess I'll have to be pretty careful with it, but it will save me a lot of money.

The clear I got was the Dupont Nason 496-00 and the 483-78 activator, like you recommended. I guess it was actually $32. This guy on ebay has sold quite a few kits with both and has perfect feedback. In case anyone reading this wants to get some here's a link to his ebay store:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Wholesale-Auto...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1

I used a ton of acetone just painting the shifter pieces and it REALLY came in handy! (I think I'd do a much better job now). Luckily the smallest size I found was a gallon so I still have pretty much left.

So now my question is where are the screws you need to get at to take out the center console and rear cup holder?

Also how did you keep the silver tab on the cupholder? I don't care much if I have to paint over it I just was surprised to see it still there in your pics.

can't wait to see your next project....

Awesome! :) You'll love the airbrush and that clear, it works so well! And the drill attachment should work fine for polishing- anything to mimic doing it by hand just a little faster will work.

To remove the center console, on the bottom left and right there's a panel that can be removed using a flathead screwdriver (clips only). Then you'll see 3 10mm bolts holding the console to the bottom frame, on both sides. Then the console should be able to be lifted up. But there's a wire (with a ball on the end) that goes from the console to the frame of the car (controls something, forget what). Just unhook the wire from the frame. At this point you should be able to remove the console from the car. Then you can mask off and paint etc. Putting it back in the car's a bit of a challenge with the wire and all, but it's not that bad.

And for the rear seat cup holder, if you open it, you'll see two screws on the bottom (i think?) just pop those out, and it should come right out (maybe with help from a flat-head, i don't remember exactly).

As for the chrome sliver on the wood cupholder piece, i actually had to make my own and put it back on. Bought some chrome tape from autozone (comes in a roll, used for pinstripes etc) and cut out a piece the same size, and put it on the clear. It's not embossed under the clear, but it looks great :)

Now that you've got the airbrush and hard clear, you can try painting the steering wheel too :) As soon as you've got it off the car, you're half-way there. I then tighten it in the vice (see it on my workshop), mask off the leather (which can take about a half hour, gotta get it perfect!) wetsand the clear and paint and clear. If you start in the morning, you can have it painted, baked and un-masked by the evening- might be best so you don't have to do without the car for long :)

cduluk,

I love the way you redid your 400h. I just bought a 2007 400h in Bamboo Pearl and tan/birdseye maple interior. The wood tone, especially of the steering wheel, is a mustard yellowy. I have seen this same interior with a more orange tone to the wood. If I wanted to tone the wood to a darker orange or orange-red what would you use?

thanks,

rich

[cduluk]

That's awesome. I love your workshop, especially the gloves all over the place.

I actually got the same airbrush as you from michaels. That makes me feel a lot better about spending the money. I also bought a drill attachment for the CCS buffer pads and I'm going to attempt to polish the trim with the drill. I guess I'll have to be pretty careful with it, but it will save me a lot of money.

The clear I got was the Dupont Nason 496-00 and the 483-78 activator, like you recommended. I guess it was actually $32. This guy on ebay has sold quite a few kits with both and has perfect feedback. In case anyone reading this wants to get some here's a link to his ebay store:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Wholesale-Auto...s__W0QQ_armrsZ1

I used a ton of acetone just painting the shifter pieces and it REALLY came in handy! (I think I'd do a much better job now). Luckily the smallest size I found was a gallon so I still have pretty much left.

So now my question is where are the screws you need to get at to take out the center console and rear cup holder?

Also how did you keep the silver tab on the cupholder? I don't care much if I have to paint over it I just was surprised to see it still there in your pics.

can't wait to see your next project....

Awesome! :) You'll love the airbrush and that clear, it works so well! And the drill attachment should work fine for polishing- anything to mimic doing it by hand just a little faster will work.

To remove the center console, on the bottom left and right there's a panel that can be removed using a flathead screwdriver (clips only). Then you'll see 3 10mm bolts holding the console to the bottom frame, on both sides. Then the console should be able to be lifted up. But there's a wire (with a ball on the end) that goes from the console to the frame of the car (controls something, forget what). Just unhook the wire from the frame. At this point you should be able to remove the console from the car. Then you can mask off and paint etc. Putting it back in the car's a bit of a challenge with the wire and all, but it's not that bad.

And for the rear seat cup holder, if you open it, you'll see two screws on the bottom (i think?) just pop those out, and it should come right out (maybe with help from a flat-head, i don't remember exactly).

As for the chrome sliver on the wood cupholder piece, i actually had to make my own and put it back on. Bought some chrome tape from autozone (comes in a roll, used for pinstripes etc) and cut out a piece the same size, and put it on the clear. It's not embossed under the clear, but it looks great :)

Now that you've got the airbrush and hard clear, you can try painting the steering wheel too :) As soon as you've got it off the car, you're half-way there. I then tighten it in the vice (see it on my workshop), mask off the leather (which can take about a half hour, gotta get it perfect!) wetsand the clear and paint and clear. If you start in the morning, you can have it painted, baked and un-masked by the evening- might be best so you don't have to do without the car for long :)

cduluk,

I love the way you redid your 400h. I just bought a 2007 400h in Bamboo Pearl and tan/birdseye maple interior. The wood tone, especially of the steering wheel, is a mustard yellowy. I have seen this same interior with a more orange tone to the wood. If I wanted to tone the wood to a darker orange or orange-red what would you use?

thanks,

rich

Hey sorry for the late reply,

All of the 04-09 Rx's with the tan interior have the yellow/orange birds eye maple trim, however not all veneers are the same, and they all take the stains differently. That's why some are darker than others. After the wood makers produce several sets of wood pieces, Lexus makes sure each of the wood pieces in each car match each other, as most of the wood trim pieces are adjacent.

If your wood trim is on the lighter side and you want it a bit darker, you can stain them to get pretty much any color/shade you want. You can't really sand the factory clear off, so you'd need more of a transparent "paint" like the type i used. I actually used stained glass paint which works VERY well. You could buy a few cans of orange and a few reds, and try mixing them (in a separate container) until you've got the desired shade (more of a brown) and airbrush it. over the trim pieces. Then follow by a clear just like i did.

Just make sure to be careful when removing the pieces from the car, and make sure to wetsand the factory clear before painting (so it'll stick).

Good luck!

[hercpilot]

I love it!! My wife would kill me, but I think this would be a very cool project.

Thank you for sharing.