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Rear Valve Cover Replacement


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How do I replace the rear valve cover gasket on my 93 lexus es300? Mechanic wants close to $400. I'd rather do it myself if it isn't too much of a hassle.

download the repair manual on the main post page.

Manuals worthless, what I could find anyway.
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If you are looking for a more detailed instructions, aimed at a entry level mechanic, I would suggest purchasing a Hayes or Chilton manaul. These can be found at most auto part stores, (you may have to order one for you particular car). The rear valve cover gasket is not hard, but I would suggest starting early in the day, and planning on the whole day so that you are not rushed. You might also want to change spark plugs while you change the valve cover gaskets. It is much easier to change the rear plugs while you have it all apart

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If you are a beginner, dont try.

Think about it, the gasket only cost about $20, garage charges hundreds, why?

To replace the rear valve cover gasket definately is a chore, especially the part of taking the electric harness off the cover. I had huge struggle when I was taking the harness off to give a way to take the cover out. My is 95, which might be different from 93. Anyway, if you really want to do it, before taking everything apart, take some detailed pictures from different angles, it helps a lot and give you a lot of confidence of driving it after you finished the task. I connected EGR tubes wrong, and corrected it with pictures I took. BUT, when you completed the work, you would feel REALLY GOOD about yourself.

Good luck.

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I may get flamed for this but what the heck. I noticed about a year ago the front valve cover gasket was starting to "seep" not really leak, but there was a spot right underneath that I would wipe clean and it would have oil there again quick. I have used used a synthetic blend 5w-30 for 10 years in it (98es300). I made sure all the cover bolts were tightened to spec. and they were. I live in Texas so since the weather doesn't get very cold, so last oil change I switched to 10w-30. Last time I checked it was dry, I guess the cold oil at 10w is enough thicker than the 5w that it's not seeping anymore. I just can't bring myself to change that gasket now, call me lazy. I just wanted to throw that out there for anyone else that may be experiencing that. -Dave

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I may get flamed for this but what the heck. I noticed about a year ago the front valve cover gasket was starting to "seep" not really leak, but there was a spot right underneath that I would wipe clean and it would have oil there again quick. I have used used a synthetic blend 5w-30 for 10 years in it (98es300). I made sure all the cover bolts were tightened to spec. and they were. I live in Texas so since the weather doesn't get very cold, so last oil change I switched to 10w-30. Last time I checked it was dry, I guess the cold oil at 10w is enough thicker than the 5w that it's not seeping anymore. I just can't bring myself to change that gasket now, call me lazy. I just wanted to throw that out there for anyone else that may be experiencing that. -Dave

If only front cover was leaking, it will be a piece of cheese cake, 20 minutes most to replace the gasket. The rear cover is the devil. Of course, it would not be an issue to use thicker oil in warm climate. Just to throw in a tip for you to consider, stocked PCV valve could be another possible cause for a leaking engine.

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I did it on my 95 two years ago, till now I still can not forget about the agony, it took me 5 days to move the electric wire harness out of way (a lot of looking, thinking, and searching, of course many beer breaks). I could not find any instructions in any manual and instructions. Since I already took all other parts apart, finally I decide to use a large screw driver to pry it upward, then the cover could be barely slided out. I was worrying about breaking any wire, it turned out ok at the end. As I recall, on right side of the engine there was a screw holding the harness you have to remove it, there maybe better way of doing it, i just do not know how. This is a stupid way, but it works, I would like to learn if anyone knows what is right way of doing it.

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I did it on my 95 two years ago, till now I still can not forget about the agony, it took me 5 days to move the electric wire harness out of way (a lot of looking, thinking, and searching, of course many beer breaks). I could not find any instructions in any manual and instructions. Since I already took all other parts apart, finally I decide to use a large screw driver to pry it upward, then the cover could be barely slided out. I was worrying about breaking any wire, it turned out ok at the end. As I recall, on right side of the engine there was a screw holding the harness you have to remove it, there maybe better way of doing it, i just do not know how. This is a stupid way, but it works, I would like to learn if anyone knows what is right way of doing it.

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As far as i know, there is no easier way of doing it. i sincerely advise you if you dont want to take the risk that i described above, go to dealer.

Just for curiosity, ask them how did they do it and share us how much they charge you.

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