RX300ES300

It is very likely is the pcv valve, it may be clogged which will build up the chamber pressure then cause the leak. The replacement is easy and cost less than $10. If it does not help, rear valve cover gasket is the most likely the problem. The front one is piece of cake, the pain in the "rear"-end is the rear one. The leaking rear valve cover will definitely give you the burning smell, of cause it may be other leak but I would guess this is it.

The last laugh is here. Ladies and gents, I always use toothpaste and a spray can of rubbing alcohol (or water) to rub/clean my headlight, it works better than any commercial kits. Rub it any way you want, it wont hurt the lens. It takes 10 minutes most including 5 minutes standing there amazing what a great effect it gives you. With sandpaper and clear coating, after 6-12 months, the coating starts to chipped away, the headlights became hazier worse than the original and you have to do it again and again. Toothpaste is not destructive, cost nothing, you can try it before invest any money and a trip. UNLESS your headlights are really out of shape, which I doubt in most cases, this is the best way to restore the headlights. My 95 looks great, remember it is 14 year old car. Sorry no pictures, because you will see your headlights just like mine. Love to hear any feedback. After all, the headlight smells better and deserve a kiss too. lol

Since you have the sensor off already, measure the resistance, a good one should be >100K ohms at room temperature. 302 degree F, 2-4K ohms 212 degree F, 11-15K ohms 112 degree F, 69-89K ohms

As far as i know, there is no easier way of doing it. i sincerely advise you if you dont want to take the risk that i described above, go to dealer. Just for curiosity, ask them how did they do it and share us how much they charge you.

First of all, I will change the PCV valve, a stock one will cause oil leak.

Now we are talking. I had similar problem before on my pickup truck, I could not drive over 30, otherwise it will hesitate and die. After all it was a foul fuel filter. Good luck.

I did it on my 95 two years ago, till now I still can not forget about the agony, it took me 5 days to move the electric wire harness out of way (a lot of looking, thinking, and searching, of course many beer breaks). I could not find any instructions in any manual and instructions. Since I already took all other parts apart, finally I decide to use a large screw driver to pry it upward, then the cover could be barely slided out. I was worrying about breaking any wire, it turned out ok at the end. As I recall, on right side of the engine there was a screw holding the harness you have to remove it, there maybe better way of doing it, i just do not know how. This is a stupid way, but it works, I would like to learn if anyone knows what is right way of doing it.

I did it on my 95 two years ago, till now I still can not forget about the agony, it took me 5 days to move the electric wire harness out of way (a lot of looking, thinking, and searching, of course many beer breaks). I could not find any instructions in any manual and instructions. Since I already took all other parts apart, finally I decide to use a large screw driver to pry it upward, then the cover could be barely slided out. I was worrying about breaking any wire, it turned out ok at the end. As I recall, on right side of the engine there was a screw holding the harness you have to remove it, there maybe better way of doing it, i just do not know how. This is a stupid way, but it works, I would like to learn if anyone knows what is right way of doing it.

Changing timing belt at 100000 is a general practice/maintenance, especially the belt is 8 years old. More than likely the belt still can handle more miles, but it is a timing bomb, you may experience it to break on you any time too. I would pay around 400-500 for all the belts, water pump, and seals. dont use lexus dealer, they'll chop off one of your arms plus a small toe.

Regular is good enough, unless you have too much dough to burn.

The description is not very clear. Any electricity? can you restart? Any strange sound? It could be battery, alternator, or broken timing belt.

If only front cover was leaking, it will be a piece of cheese cake, 20 minutes most to replace the gasket. The rear cover is the devil. Of course, it would not be an issue to use thicker oil in warm climate. Just to throw in a tip for you to consider, stocked PCV valve could be another possible cause for a leaking engine.

If you are a beginner, dont try. Think about it, the gasket only cost about $20, garage charges hundreds, why? To replace the rear valve cover gasket definately is a chore, especially the part of taking the electric harness off the cover. I had huge struggle when I was taking the harness off to give a way to take the cover out. My is 95, which might be different from 93. Anyway, if you really want to do it, before taking everything apart, take some detailed pictures from different angles, it helps a lot and give you a lot of confidence of driving it after you finished the task. I connected EGR tubes wrong, and corrected it with pictures I took. BUT, when you completed the work, you would feel REALLY GOOD about yourself. Good luck.

Wrongo Bongo is just a saying, I was not refering to your name, Pardon me. The aerodynamic cover is under the car and both the top and bottom cover protect the engine bay from dirt, grime, debris etc... So, They are not crap panels, Lexus engineers have them in place for a reason. It was not my intent to aggrivate you. Enjoy your Lexus The shield underneath the engine is for protection from the road hazards, the top portion is for a classic looking (with Lexus logo) to impress people. Arodynamic? no, no, not at all. I took the top of from my es300 (95) 7 years ago, at beginning I felt funny everytime I opened the hood, later, I dont even remember I had one.

Was the EGR temperature sensor replaced by Lexus mechanic?? Anyway you can check the sensor by measuring the resistance of the sensor. See George's attachment.

The problem resolved. Just to share the information with all members: Discussed the issue with the parts maufacturer, the tech people is really nice, he indicated that the gap distance between the sensor and the trigger wheel is very important, even a very small difference (in millimeter) will cause the problem. I cleaned the area where the sensor is located thoroughly, some debris were noticed and removed. Unfortunately, when I tried to put everything back, I broke the screw which ties the sensor down. Took me extra two hours to extract the broken screw. Anyway, I test drive the car after putting everything back, The ABS behaves flawless just like new. Hope this helps .

There is a temperature sensor at the bottom part of the EGR, did the mechanic replaced it?? Double check with him, and how many miles after the replacement, the light went on again?

Hi George, thanks for the reply, just throw in some answer for the discussion: I trimmed down the diameter about 1 mm, because the original hole is bit small. The trim down is the plastic casing which wraps the coil, that should not be the problem, i guess. Yes , the connector is the same. The resistance reading of the old sensor is no reading (infinite or you can call it short circuit, that's the double garrantees for a bad sensor, the other one is codes 31 and 36), the new sensor is about 1K ohm which meets the spec (0.6-1.8K), I did not measure the other front sensor, just lazy, I figure it should be fine, cause the ABS light is off. I do not know the difference of air gap of the other wheel, I do not want to take the other sensor off, cause when I took the old one off, it was fragile and stocked in the position, i have to break the old one, and clean out the part left in the hole (a lot of copper wires, copper coil) with some efforts. The wheel bearing is fine, never have any problem. the wheels are the stock, no modification. I own this car for more than 10 years, did all the mechanic works by myself, brake/rotor, timing belt, volve cover gasket, rear bearing replacement, oxygen sensor...etc. I am just puzzled by this funny pulsation at the end low speed brake. maybe I should replace the other side, with the same brand, just to make the abs processor happy, but i am just wondering, theoretically, why? should the computer chip adjust it accordingly? even the sensors are slightly different? Some thing happened this afternoon, I drove slowly on the local road with the ac one, just after i braked and before I parked the car, the ABS light flickers (of cause the pulsation was there), then went away, then it did not happen again. It is tricky, isnt it??

Need some advice: My 1995 ES300's ABS light was on, I figured out that FR ABS speed sensor was the problem, I bought and installed a replacement (Dorman brand) from Ebay, $80 shipping included. The sensor is bit bigger than the original, I trimmed it down with a file. After the installation, the ABS light went away, I was really happy with it at begining. The problem is now every time I brake the car, it gives me a ABS pulsation near the end of stop, even during a light brake. I know the pulsation should only happen when you brake it hard during emergency. I did disconnect the battery trying to clear any memory in the ABS processor, the pulsation still there each time I brake the car. Any inside view about this issue? Appreciated..

PSP replacement needs some serious work. Let me know your email, I'll send you repair manual.