Brake Pads/rotors Replacement?

[Jim Johnson]

I have a 2000 RX300 with 60,000 miles (as you can see, I don't drive it that much). I can feel vibration and pulse on the brake pedal when I step on it. I took it to a local Lexus delearship and they quoted me over $800 to replace all 4 pads/rotors. It's just hard to believe that I need to have everything replaced at the same time. I read quite a few messages on this forum on how to replace brake pads/rotors and I'm very encouraged to do the job myself. This is my first time working on brakes, so I would like to get some suggestions/recommendations:

* Which tool can I use to measure the thickness of brake pads/rotors so I know for sure they need to be replaced?

* Which brand of brake pads/rotors should I buy?

* I have a torque wrench and a ratchet set with various sizes of sockets. What other tools/materials do I need to do the job?

Thanks,

Jim

[code58]

I have a 2000 RX300 with 60,000 miles (as you can see, I don't drive it that much). I can feel vibration and pulse on the brake pedal when I step on it. I took it to a local Lexus delearship and they quoted me over $800 to replace all 4 pads/rotors. It's just hard to believe that I need to have everything replaced at the same time. I read quite a few messages on this forum on how to replace brake pads/rotors and I'm very encouraged to do the job myself. This is my first time working on brakes, so I would like to get some suggestions/recommendations:

* Which tool can I use to measure the thickness of brake pads/rotors so I know for sure they need to be replaced?

* Which brand of brake pads/rotors should I buy?

* I have a torque wrench and a ratchet set with various sizes of sockets. What other tools/materials do I need to do the job?

Thanks,

Jim

Jim- 1st question I need to ask is how thick are the LININGS on the pads? Do you have a way to measure them? Have you ever had them replaced before? I can tell you, I would be amazed if you needed rotors. Lexus uses very high quality rotors as original equipment. My DIL's 99RX has the original rotors and though the pads have been replaced a couple of times, the rotors have never been turned and are in very acceptable condition. Google "Centric" and read what they have to say about pulsing brake pedal. They manufacture brake parts and it's a real eye-opener what they say about the problem. Do what they say and see if it gets rid of the problem. I have tried it and it works! They give you a very thorough explanation of what the cause often is and it has worked for me more than once. Let us know what you think.

By the way, the pads are VERY easy to change- if you have a wife, she could probably do it. Good Luck!

[vvnn]

I just replace both the rear wheel rotors and pads on my 2000 rx300. Purchased from O'Reily - everything was $118 Used the Wagnor rotors and the mid range pads with ceramic. Would have only taken 30 minutes but I had a frozen bolt on one side. Otherwise, a quick process. I'm by no means a mechanic at all. Of course, I had access to a lift that made it easy.

[pm99]

I just replace both the rear wheel rotors and pads on my 2000 rx300. Purchased from O'Reily - everything was $118 Used the Wagnor rotors and the mid range pads with ceramic. Would have only taken 30 minutes but I had a frozen bolt on one side. Otherwise, a quick process. I'm by no means a mechanic at all. Of course, I had access to a lift that made it easy.

Do you have any directions or instructions on how to change the pads and the rotors. I have a 99 Rx 300. The dealer told me that I have 2mm lefts on my pads and may need my rotors machined. He also mentioned that I need new shims. All told he was quoting ~330 for the two rear wheels. Was wondering if this is something I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Prashant

[carguy07]

I just replace both the rear wheel rotors and pads on my 2000 rx300. Purchased from O'Reily - everything was $118 Used the Wagnor rotors and the mid range pads with ceramic. Would have only taken 30 minutes but I had a frozen bolt on one side. Otherwise, a quick process. I'm by no means a mechanic at all. Of course, I had access to a lift that made it easy.

Do you have any directions or instructions on how to change the pads and the rotors. I have a 99 Rx 300. The dealer told me that I have 2mm lefts on my pads and may need my rotors machined. He also mentioned that I need new shims. All told he was quoting ~330 for the two rear wheels. Was wondering if this is something I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Prashant

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...e-pads-diy.html

Very easy job if you have done brakes before.

[Jim Johnson]

Thanks a lot for your replies.

I started working on the project this past weekend. Taking everything apart was the toughest part. The wheel lug nuts were way over tightened. I first tried using the torque wretch on the nuts and the nuts wouldn't loosen a bit at 100 lbft (the spec is 76 lbft)!!! I had to use a long breaking bar to remove them.

I'm stuck with one of the rotors. I used two bolts and screwed them in the rotor removing holes. They did break the rotor apart from the hub, but I can just slide it off the axle as somebody else suggested. Is there anything I missed that secures the rotor to the hub/axle?

I put the new pads in the caliper, but they're kind loose in it. I see that there are pad support plates between the caliper and the pads on both end. I assume the plates are used to secure the pads to the caliper? How do I attached pads to them?

Cheers,

Jim

I just replace both the rear wheel rotors and pads on my 2000 rx300. Purchased from O'Reily - everything was $118 Used the Wagnor rotors and the mid range pads with ceramic. Would have only taken 30 minutes but I had a frozen bolt on one side. Otherwise, a quick process. I'm by no means a mechanic at all. Of course, I had access to a lift that made it easy.

Do you have any directions or instructions on how to change the pads and the rotors. I have a 99 Rx 300. The dealer told me that I have 2mm lefts on my pads and may need my rotors machined. He also mentioned that I need new shims. All told he was quoting ~330 for the two rear wheels. Was wondering if this is something I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Prashant

[Jim Johnson]

I finally removed the rear rotors. You wouldn't believe what a stupid mistake I made: I put emergency brake on to make it easier to get the wheel lug nuts off (remember they were overtightened ?30% by the dealership). I didn't know that the emergency brake actually holds onto the rear rotors.

I will keep you posted on my progress.

Cheers,

Jim

Thanks a lot for your replies.

I started working on the project this past weekend. Taking everything apart was the toughest part. The wheel lug nuts were way over tightened. I first tried using the torque wretch on the nuts and the nuts wouldn't loosen a bit at 100 lbft (the spec is 76 lbft)!!! I had to use a long breaking bar to remove them.

I'm stuck with one of the rotors. I used two bolts and screwed them in the rotor removing holes. They did break the rotor apart from the hub, but I can just slide it off the axle as somebody else suggested. Is there anything I missed that secures the rotor to the hub/axle?

I put the new pads in the caliper, but they're kind loose in it. I see that there are pad support plates between the caliper and the pads on both end. I assume the plates are used to secure the pads to the caliper? How do I attached pads to them?

Cheers,

Jim

I just replace both the rear wheel rotors and pads on my 2000 rx300. Purchased from O'Reily - everything was $118 Used the Wagnor rotors and the mid range pads with ceramic. Would have only taken 30 minutes but I had a frozen bolt on one side. Otherwise, a quick process. I'm by no means a mechanic at all. Of course, I had access to a lift that made it easy.

Do you have any directions or instructions on how to change the pads and the rotors. I have a 99 Rx 300. The dealer told me that I have 2mm lefts on my pads and may need my rotors machined. He also mentioned that I need new shims. All told he was quoting ~330 for the two rear wheels. Was wondering if this is something I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Prashant

[lenore]

Ooppps it has happened to the best of us. You learn from your mistakes. Good luck

[code58]

I started working on the project this past weekend. Taking everything apart was the toughest part. The wheel lug nuts were way over tightened. I first tried using the torque wretch on the nuts and the nuts wouldn't loosen a bit at 100 lbft (the spec is 76 lbft)!!! I had to use a long breaking bar to remove them.

I'm stuck with one of the rotors. I used two bolts and screwed them in the rotor removing holes. They did break the rotor apart from the hub, but I can just slide it off the axle as somebody else suggested. Is there anything I missed that secures the rotor to the hub/axle?

I put the new pads in the caliper, but they're kind loose in it. I see that there are pad support plates between the caliper and the pads on both end. I assume the plates are used to secure the pads to the caliper? How do I attached pads to them?

Cheers,

Jim

Jim- not sure exactly what you're referring to concerning the pad support plates unless you talking about the thin shim like plates that maybe clamp onto the back of the pads. Just transfer if that's what you're talking about. I think they are actually SS noise eliminators. One thing to remember is always only do 1 side at a time, that way you have the other side to refer to if you get puzzled about how something goes. And be sure to pump the brakes 2 or 3 times when you're done with everything to bring the pads solidly against the rotor, before you even turn the key. More than one person has had the surprise of their life when the 1st time they hit the brakes, they went to the floor because the pistons weren't extended.

[Jim Johnson]

Thanks for the tips, code58!

I attached a picture to show what I referred by pad support plates. They are more like clips that hold the pad to the caliper bracket. I assume the pads are supposedly be able to move freely inside the caliper bracket.

I have a simple question regarding how brake works. I can see that the piston/caliper will push the pads towards the rotor. But I don't see any mechanism to pull the pads away from the rotor. Am I right that the friction between the rotor and pad will push the pad away?

By the way, does anybody have recommendation on a good online store that carries brake caliper bracket? I bought my brake pads/rotors from rockauto, but they don't seem to have caliper brackets.

Cheers,

Jim

I started working on the project this past weekend. Taking everything apart was the toughest part. The wheel lug nuts were way over tightened. I first tried using the torque wretch on the nuts and the nuts wouldn't loosen a bit at 100 lbft (the spec is 76 lbft)!!! I had to use a long breaking bar to remove them.

I'm stuck with one of the rotors. I used two bolts and screwed them in the rotor removing holes. They did break the rotor apart from the hub, but I can just slide it off the axle as somebody else suggested. Is there anything I missed that secures the rotor to the hub/axle?

I put the new pads in the caliper, but they're kind loose in it. I see that there are pad support plates between the caliper and the pads on both end. I assume the plates are used to secure the pads to the caliper? How do I attached pads to them?

Cheers,

Jim

Jim- not sure exactly what you're referring to concerning the pad support plates unless you talking about the thin shim like plates that maybe clamp onto the back of the pads. Just transfer if that's what you're talking about. I think they are actually SS noise eliminators. One thing to remember is always only do 1 side at a time, that way you have the other side to refer to if you get puzzled about how something goes. And be sure to pump the brakes 2 or 3 times when you're done with everything to bring the pads solidly against the rotor, before you even turn the key. More than one person has had the surprise of their life when the 1st time they hit the brakes, they went to the floor because the pistons weren't extended.

[code58]

'Jim Johnson' date='Jun 15 2009, 12:13 PM'

Thanks for the tips, code58!

I attached a picture to show what I referred by pad support plates. They are more like clips that hold the pad to the caliper bracket. I assume the pads are supposedly be able to move freely inside the caliper bracket.

I have a simple question regarding how brake works. I can see that the piston/caliper will push the pads towards the rotor. But I don't see any mechanism to pull the pads away from the rotor. Am I right that the friction between the rotor and pad will push the pad away?

By the way, does anybody have recommendation on a good online store that carries brake caliper bracket? I bought my brake pads/rotors from rockauto, but they don't seem to have caliper brackets.

Cheers,

Jim

Jim- If I understand correctly what parts you are talking about (the thumbnail was kinda of off the edge), you normally just transfer those old parts to the new pads.

And concerning how the pads work in the calipers, the pads simply ride against the rotors when the pedal isn't pressed. It would seem like they would wear out quickly that way, but somehow it seems to have worked pretty well for BILLIONS of miles. Without pressure on the pedal, there is no retraction, just no pressure against the rotor. They actually still ride against the rotor. I have seen some attempts over the years by some manufacturers to retract the pads just slightly, but I think they found out that it worked fine the way it has been since they started putting disc brakes on cars, so most of them just "let 'er ride". They would only be able to retract it a few thousanths of an inch or you would have a pedal that went down too far when you used the brakes, to get the pressure once again against the rotors.

I went back again and looked at the picture and the clips DO get transfered and I think their primary purpose is probably to keep the pads from moving around slightly when the brakes are applied (yes, they could move) and causing a squeek.