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Quixtar

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Hey Guys I drove my car to Arkansas one day about 4 hours away and when I stopped and went in the store I tried to crank and it would crank. It would crank and then cut off... Its that familiar with anybody? mattter fact it locked up on me too does anyway know how to unlock it once it locks up and the key want turn!!!

But yeah its crazy?

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Hey Guys I drove my car to Arkansas one day about 4 hours away and when I stopped and went in the store I tried to crank and it would crank. It would crank and then cut off... Its that familiar with anybody? mattter fact it locked up on me too does anyway know how to unlock it once it locks up and the key want turn!!!

But yeah its crazy?

i know when my timing belt went on my toyota tercel years ago, it would just crank and not start, but also the car just shut off on me while i was driving. could be that or fuel pump, could actually be alot of things, you are gonna have to play with it.

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First thing to do is pull the codes, its really very easy, take a paper clib, bend it into a u, and put one end in tei and the other end in E1 on the diagnostic connector under the hood. It is a black rectangular box that says diagnostic on it. Turn on the key, and count the flashes on the Check engine light. As for the key, try wiggling the steering wheel.... good luck

capn

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First thing to do is pull the codes, its really very easy, take a paper clib, bend it into a u, and put one end in tei and the other end in E1 on the diagnostic connector under the hood. It is a black rectangular box that says diagnostic on it. Turn on the key, and count the flashes on the Check engine light. As for the key, try wiggling the steering wheel.... good luck

capn

what do you mean about pulling codes

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when the check engine light comes on it is because thr computer has stored a diagnostic code which can be read by following the procedure I put in my last post. But first you have to solve the key issue....in order to read the codes the ignition must be on...

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Yeah, checking the codes is your best bet. If you have nothing, no codes, begin to check for spark, air, and fuel. Mine died similarily recently and it was the distributor rotor. The screws had wobbled out of it and it fell off.

You can always test your starter by jumpering electricity to it as well.

MAFs going bad can cause this as well, but you'd be getting a code for that if it was bad.

I'd stick with the classics and try to get a code or confirm you have spark, air, and fuel.

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