'03 Rx300 Transmission Fluid Flush

[mikey00]

Gosh man, sorry, I got the really important word "used" wrong because it would make perfect sense to do an analysis on "new"oil. And Mike, thanks so much for just spewing snide replies instead actually offering to educate the folks on this forum. You know I've read your replies on numerous posts and I actually respect your opinion but why do you feel the need to act like such and a$$hole!

It is important to do an oil analysis on new oil also. That gives you a relationship (visual etc), non-linear on the oil being used. You do not need this but it would help in some areas of understanding fluids utilized/applications.

I give "snide" replies if you want to call it that, since I have been on this forum long enough and not going to educate folks (been there done that; do a search since these are old Q&A). Not my job and frankly, with the invention of the internet you can learn it faster stepping up-to-the-plate on their end. In fact go to yahoo and type in UOA oil and you get what it defines in about 1.1 seconds. What I find is, well do a search since I have posted it time and time again. To summarize most here will not be doing due to price, understanding or play the "time" game. I just got another one (UOA) back but do not bother posting them.

Look on what the outcome of it is. As noted before, when some resort to pushing the "degree", some fancy dollar amount etc, it is all over and not on track. I am being nice here too just giving short direct answers.

Next, I give answers since so far I have people saying smell-a-vision and color are pretty fair detectors. Define "fair" since I do not know what that means and for the record I have tested black "smelling like crap" fluid and tested fine (not great/new but had life left). Same with engine oils, hyd fluids and gears. Using these are not wrong, if you have endless $$, time and you are one step above guessing; have at it I say with this non-scientific processes. At least use a blotter test (free people, notice free) since it seems UOA price is one factor

I try and stay out of most fluids posts on forums but when people post comments like "an oil additive like Amsoil" what the heck are people posting this flat-out wrong info. I do not even bother with people saying the manual items are needed for warranty.

Ditto on everything tmastres has already said.

I stated I was very familiar with oil analysis and got back from you “How can you be "very familiar with oil analysis " but do not know what the "U” is for? They are intergral to eachother “. Well I still stand by my statement. If I go to the Amsoil site it is called oil analysis. I can’t find the “U”. Does that mean amsoil is not familiar with oil analysis. Amsoil provides a link on their site to a testing service. Again no “U” on that site. Maybe they only test new oil. A quick google of “oil analysis” is absent of the “U”. Are all these labs only testing new oil? My point is that the “U” is not integral to oil analysis. There is no need to post back to me with large type (I don’t appreciate them) pointing out some sites that do use the “U”. I am sure they exist.

Many thanks to all those who participated in these discussions with me in the past. We may not have always agreed but I least I did sense some respect in the replies. My posts in the future will end with “Please no responses from current or former Amsoil dealers” unless management shoots me down on this.

Mike (as in Mikey00, please don’t confuse me with any others)

[tmastres]

Well let me say thanks for the info, I for one do appreciate knowledgeable input. Apologies for being rude myself but I could see the frustration in some of the other posts, and while I know it isn't anyones job to educate people, I think thats why were all here (ok most of us) really. I know its easy to search for things and you've certainly been a major protagonist in many fluid discussions, so I understand that repetitive frustration as well, but most people still believe (like I did) that color and smell are good tests, now I know different. I wouldn't run my car on burnt smelling black fluid but hey it very well may be OK. Leaning in progress.

Truth is though that the acronym UAO means a whole heck of a lot of things, if you do as you say and search Yahoo the first meaningful definitions for UAO are

Urban Atmospheric Observatory

Uppsala Astronomical Observatory

UNIQUE ADMINISTRATIVE ORGANIZATION

United As One.

Nowhere on the first two pages does one find anything about used Oil Analysis (or Uniforom Oil Analysis for that matter)

My point is not to be a wise-!Removed! but to say that what seems like such simple, obvious knowledge to you may not be such for someone else. Also because you stress the use of UAO's so stridently, I'd think you'd want more people to know about them and use them. Anyhow thanks for the clarification and I guess we'll all move on.

[mburnickas]

Ditto on everything tmastres has already said.

I stated I was very familiar with oil analysis and got back from you "How can you be "very familiar with oil analysis " but do not know what the "U" is for? They are intergral to eachother ". Well I still stand by my statement. If I go to the Amsoil site it is called oil analysis. I can't find the "U". Does that mean amsoil is not familiar with oil analysis. Amsoil provides a link on their site to a testing service. Again no "U" on that site. Maybe they only test new oil. A quick google of "oil analysis" is absent of the "U". Are all these labs only testing new oil? My point is that the "U" is not integral to oil analysis. There is no need to post back to me with large type (I don't appreciate them) pointing out some sites that do use the "U". I am sure they exist.

Many thanks to all those who participated in these discussions with me in the past. We may not have always agreed but I least I did sense some respect in the replies. My posts in the future will end with "Please no responses from current or former Amsoil dealers" unless management shoots me down on this.

Mike (as in Mikey00, please don't confuse me with any others)

I never said UOA was integral ANY Amosil product; noted prior. Also why would Amsoil even come up with UOA. Amsoil does not own some company private dataon UOA's or anything. Also you are "familiar" with oil analysis but do not know what "U" is for….oil analysis is either new "N" Or used "U" there is not inbetween.

Amsoil has a link since OAI INC since it is a company name, that is all. Think out it, why would Amsoil post a link to a company [they own] for customers to send samples to only to test new oil? Umm, no much sense there. Seems like you have issues with a product you need to work on..

Also why is test size and issue?

[Randy&Bonnie]

..

[mburnickas]

Well let me say thanks for the info, I for one do appreciate knowledgeable input. Apologies for being rude myself but I could see the frustration in some of the other posts, and while I know it isn't anyones job to educate people, I think thats why were all here (ok most of us) really. I know its easy to search for things and you've certainly been a major protagonist in many fluid discussions, so I understand that repetitive frustration as well, but most people still believe (like I did) that color and smell are good tests, now I know different. I wouldn't run my car on burnt smelling black fluid but hey it very well may be OK. Leaning in progress.

Truth is though that the acronym UAO means a whole heck of a lot of things, if you do as you say and search Yahoo the first meaningful definitions for UAO are

Urban Atmospheric Observatory

Uppsala Astronomical Observatory

UNIQUE ADMINISTRATIVE ORGANIZATION

United As One.

Nowhere on the first two pages does one find anything about used Oil Analysis (or Uniforom Oil Analysis for that matter)

My point is not to be a wise-!Removed! but to say that what seems like such simple, obvious knowledge to you may not be such for someone else. Also because you stress the use of UAO's so stridently, I'd think you'd want more people to know about them and use them. Anyhow thanks for the clarification and I guess we'll all move on.

Noted prior, "In fact go to yahoo and type in UOA oil and you get what it defines in about 1.1 seconds". Still stand as before..Fact is 99.99% of this forum (and most) lack on the UOA's and supporting data. People still drain before even a "manual for..." says so.. Most will spend $4 per g for gas, $5 per g for milk, $40+K for a car and will not spend approx $20 on a UOA. That to me is amazing but with warning labels on lawn mowers, nevermind. LOL

I still have people posting here that will not even tell me why would you test your oil...Still waiting for that.

Your post is not a wase-a$$$ and I like to the point posts. I have read them all bigtime. I do not care or want more people to know about 30+ year old processes and standards. Make me look better. :whistles: :whistles:

[mburnickas]

Sorry, I just had to get back into this.... This discussion is getting more humorous by the post. It's UOA (Used Oil Analysis) not UAO, and you cand find it all over the internet.

For the "clown", Mr. mburnickas, just for shiaits and giggles, I went back and read some of your recent posts. You sound like a parts slinger behind a counter. You spew out comments and espouse your "wisdom" like your word is gospel. Many of your posts are contradictory. What's most interesting is that you offer ZERO proof or data or facts on ANYTHING you post.... it's just like most posts... your worthless opinion. You frequently state that "Lexus is behind the times", and rank the information in the user/maintenance manuals. So you (and Amsoil) know more than the largest, most advanced, arguably the best automotive engineers on the entire planet!!??

As I stated in my earlier post, show me some certified test data that proves that by doing a Used Oil Analysis on my crankcase oil is going to make my engine wear longer. UOAs can tell you what's in the oil, they cannot tell you when your engine will "wear out".

Show me any test data that clearly defines the level (ppms, micron size, etc.) of wear particles in the oil, based upon a certified UOA test, that correlates directly to measurable and significant wear in vital engine components over a given period of time or miles. Can you do that? I have my doubts.

How can I compete with a person who still thinks "Amsoil is an additive" or "I have 5 years of college, I majored in Physical Science, and I have a 3-digit IQ". But you still think Amsoil is an additive..That is the best buddy! I do not even work for them nor a dealer but the 3-digit IQ and drinking Az water over 60 years. So that puts you over 60+ and I can't complete with these stats....

But "automotive engineers on the entire planet". Really is this before or after the sludge issue, cracked frame issues...

[Randy&Bonnie]

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[mburnickas]

Mr. burnickas, obviously you cannot "compete", but I still enoy your passionate rhetoric. :D

I can but when you still think Amsoil is an additive, so you ant gonna get it. Must be old age or bad water coming into play or both.... :D

[RX in NC]

All you gearheads out there can obsess over your friggin' oil analysis until the cows come home, but here's the common sense approach for the rest of the world:

1. If you choose to run a good quality dino oil, that's great. Just be sure to select the proper weight and change your oil and filter every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Check your fluid levels weekly and adjust accordingly. You'll be well within your vehicle's warranty requirements and you'll spend the least amount of money necessary to keep your engine relatively clean 95% of the time....

2. If you choose to run a good quality synthetic oil, that's great too. Just be sure to select the proper weight and change your oil and filter every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Check your fluid levels weekly and adjust accordingly. You'll spend a bit more money than the dino oil guys, but your engine will be relatively clean 99% of the time. But you may have to deal with oil leaks that wouldn't show up if you were running dino oil. And no, your synthetic oil did not cause these leaks - it is simply less viscous and is a master at finding areas within your oil system where it can escape and manifest itself on your garage floor....

I'm sure that Amsoil and some of the other "super premium" oils out there are good products, but unless you want to obsess over your vehicles or intend to keep them for 500,000 miles, you're probably spending way too much money and time on your lubrication plan. Our own personal vehicles are nothing more than transportation to us, and my days of obsessing about my vehicles are long since past. I've got far too many other more important things to worry about....

[Randy&Bonnie]

..

[mikey00]

All you gearheads out there can obsess over your friggin' oil analysis until the cows come home, but here's the common sense approach for the rest of the world:

1. If you choose to run a good quality dino oil, that's great. Just be sure to select the proper weight and change your oil and filter every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Check your fluid levels weekly and adjust accordingly. You'll be well within your vehicle's warranty requirements and you'll spend the least amount of money necessary to keep your engine relatively clean 95% of the time....

2. If you choose to run a good quality synthetic oil, that's great too. Just be sure to select the proper weight and change your oil and filter every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Check your fluid levels weekly and adjust accordingly. You'll spend a bit more money than the dino oil guys, but your engine will be relatively clean 99% of the time. But you may have to deal with oil leaks that wouldn't show up if you were running dino oil. And no, your synthetic oil did not cause these leaks - it is simply less viscous and is a master at finding areas within your oil system where it can escape and manifest itself on your garage floor....

I'm sure that Amsoil and some of the other "super premium" oils out there are good products, but unless you want to obsess over your vehicles or intend to keep them for 500,000 miles, you're probably spending way too much money and time on your lubrication plan. Our own personal vehicles are nothing more than transportation to us, and my days of obsessing about my vehicles are long since past. I've got far too many other more important things to worry about....

Good summary. Amen from me too. For some reason this thread took a turn that we have not seen on the RX forum before. Whatever it was lets hope it doesn't return.

[mburnickas]

All you gearheads out there can obsess over your friggin' oil analysis until the cows come home, but here's the common sense approach for the rest of the world:

1. If you choose to run a good quality dino oil, that's great. Just be sure to select the proper weight and change your oil and filter every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Check your fluid levels weekly and adjust accordingly. You'll be well within your vehicle's warranty requirements and you'll spend the least amount of money necessary to keep your engine relatively clean 95% of the time....

2. If you choose to run a good quality synthetic oil, that's great too. Just be sure to select the proper weight and change your oil and filter every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Check your fluid levels weekly and adjust accordingly. You'll spend a bit more money than the dino oil guys, but your engine will be relatively clean 99% of the time. But you may have to deal with oil leaks that wouldn't show up if you were running dino oil. And no, your synthetic oil did not cause these leaks - it is simply less viscous and is a master at finding areas within your oil system where it can escape and manifest itself on your garage floor....

I'm sure that Amsoil and some of the other "super premium" oils out there are good products, but unless you want to obsess over your vehicles or intend to keep them for 500,000 miles, you're probably spending way too much money and time on your lubrication plan. Our own personal vehicles are nothing more than transportation to us, and my days of obsessing about my vehicles are long since past. I've got far too many other more important things to worry about....

Just FYI, if you want broad/general/text book drains, you nailed it 100%. But on the flip side, weight in many manuals is very general rule. I stated my reasons about manuals and I would not state miles since you do not have a baseline nor if some clown does zero on car, a real synthetic (not gp3) will be beaten up after 10K miles.

Plus I have seen dino go over 10K miles and be fine (doing it now in another auto easy on oil). I am using 0w-20 in a 5w-30 spec car (mine) since 5w-30 is going bye bye. Wear etc are inline with 5w-30 after 2 intervals over 9 to 11K each. Plus more mpg.

Using a synthetic, whatever that means, does not mean your engine will be 99% clean. I have seen that in several cars in "worthless" UOA's as some would say here.

But I talk to tribologists at a few oil testings houses weekly (along with Cat/Allison etc) and they never have stated your info on dino/snthetic leaks. They all state something very different and I will forward your post to them for info.

I agree I have better things to worry about that is a reason why I like UOA’s. I see the real data and not using a boilerplate drain. But this is not the real reason why I like them (noted prior on this forum).

But you are incorrect about me "probably spending too much". I spend about $40 for oil and an EaO filter for (1) year. It comes down to time savings and what I get for UOA. That is priceless. If you are happy with manual drains, you are golden! No worries.

Also since we are all off topic, can we go back or keep going?

[tmastres]

Sorry, I just had to get back into this.... This discussion is getting more humorous by the post. It's UOA (Used Oil Analysis) not UAO, and you can find it all over the internet.

Well Yes and No. You're certainly correct that it is UOA, thats what I get for posting so early in the morning, but it really isn't "all over the internet" Thats the point I was trying to get across. Far earlier in this thread someone asked a simple question , what does UOA stand for and was basically berated for it. I tried to explain but got the U part wrong.

If you happen to know it means oil analysis you can find it in a page or two, but not everyone here is a gear-head and I just thought it would have been easier all around to answer the persons question.

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