Best Crank Case Detergent For Getting Rid Of Gunk?

[Crusty1]

Looking at switching from dino to synthetic on my 01 LS 430 and wonder what the best way to clean out all the old gunk of dino before making the switch. I thought of using Seafoam or just a high detergent dino oil before making the switch. Any ideas?

[Threadcutter]

Looking at switching from dino to synthetic on my 01 LS 430 and wonder what the best way to clean out all the old gunk of dino before making the switch. I thought of using Seafoam or just a high detergent dino oil before making the switch. Any ideas?

Crusty:

1/2 can of Seafoam in the Crankcase, drive 20 to 25 miles, immediately drain & replace with Syn and you'll be good to go.....

[Crusty1]

Crusty:

1/2 can of Seafoam in the Crankcase, drive 20 to 25 miles, immediately drain & replace with Syn and you'll be good to go.....

I was thinking of that route. I'm probably going to go with Penz Platinum and a purolator pure one for the filter and see how that goes. I'll do a UOA at 5k just to see how things are looking before I push it. Even with PP's rated OCI of 12k I'm going to approach with caution. Thanks.

[SRK]

You don't need to clean out anything. Just change over. I switched both my cars at 100k kilometers to Mobil 5W-30 and all was and is well. It's not a big deal.

[jcrome04]

It doesn't nescesarily HAVE to be cleaned but it is definately not a bad idea at all!

Seafoam works quite nicely.

[Crusty1]

You don't need to clean out anything. Just change over. I switched both my cars at 100k kilometers to Mobil 5W-30 and all was and is well. It's not a big deal.

You're probably right. But one reason to switch over to a synthetic is because they are a much cleaner oil than dino. Hence, the thought of "cleaning" out what was left behind by the dino because synthetics don't have very much "detergent" in them to wipe out whatever was there before the switch. Just wondering, how did you conclude "all was and is well?" Did you have a base UOA as a "control" and a after the switch UOA for your "variable?" Or was it pretty much seat of the pants? Thanks.

[TA in KC]

Use an OEM Lexus oil filter. They are much better than the aftermarket brands, and cost about the same, sometimes even less.

[Crusty1]

Use an OEM Lexus oil filter. They are much better than the aftermarket brands, and cost about the same, sometimes even less.

I've always stuck by Toyota/Denso products. Lately, however, newer products are showing signs of less bang for buck. I'll still buy OEM, but only after I check out the alternatives. Check out this study regarding oil filters, obviously the Lexus OEM is made by Denso. Look how it compares:

http://www.systems-engineering-associates.com/papers

[SRK]

You're probably right. But one reason to switch over to a synthetic is because they are a much cleaner oil than dino. Hence, the thought of "cleaning" out what was left behind by the dino because synthetics don't have very much "detergent" in them to wipe out whatever was there before the switch. Just wondering, how did you conclude "all was and is well?" Did you have a base UOA as a "control" and a after the switch UOA for your "variable?" Or was it pretty much seat of the pants? Thanks.

Go to the Mobil 1 site and read up on this stuff. It's fully compatible with all conventional oils. As to detergent/dispersancy Mobil 1 meets all API and ILSAC specs. The idea that any modern engine having had normal maintenance has excessive deposits is incorrect, and in the case of Lexus engines in particular, incorrect. Synthetics like Mobil 1 have inherent detergent characteristics lacking in conventional oils.

I've done UOA on my expensive Detroit Diesels in my boat. That's to establish a baseline and determine wear metals over time. A couple of tests on a Lexus engine will prove nothing except combustion byproducts, and that's solved by changing the oil.

So change to synthetic.