Door Disassembley - 92 Es

[su24]

Trying to take the driver's side door of my 92 es off for a number of reasons.

Has anyone done this before?

I know I could take to a shop, but why spend $75 if I don't have to?

Any help with this project?

[su24]

Sorry, might want to specify,

I have to get to the window and such

Not removing the door, but removing inside door panel...

[SKperformance]

i am still not following you

and if you need to add something to a post

use the edit button not the reply one

[su24]

I need to get access to the window and door lock...

I don't want to remove the door, just to disassemble it.

Hope this clears it up

[SKperformance]

it is simple

are you removing the door panel front or back

what is wrong wth the door window

[bbsal]

Trying to take the driver's side door of my 92 es off for a number of reasons.

Has anyone done this before?

I know I could take to a shop, but why spend $75 if I don't have to?

Any help with this project?

ok if your trying to take the driver side door panel off to get out the window button and door lock all you have to do is first remove the screw inside the little compartment on the arm rest then just pull on the panel and it will pop off.

[SKperformance]

no it won't

sorry bbsal i seem to be disagreing wth you alot lately

there is more to the removal than just the large screw

there are 2 pins to be pulled out ablve and below the lock mecahnism as well as its holder

also another screw with a cap by the front of the door where it meets the dash

also the cover where the handle is needs to be poped off the handle also

than there is a little slit on the lower door cover that is made to fit a few fingers in and tehn slowly pull away from the door to release it pin by pin

[bbsal]

my 95 must be different then!!!all i have to do is take out that one screw and then the handle and then just pull and it pops right off!they must of changed it in 95/96.im 100 percent positve on this one because ive taken off my panels sevreral times for speakers and such.you have more then one screw??i know i have 1 screw and thats it on mine.hehe you have been disagreeing alot lately with me havent you! :D

[Ronald]

For panel and cap pulls, I found it was best to use a flat blade/slotted-head screwdriver covered with a few layers of electrical tape. This door panel removal procedure is much easier to perform than I have written: I just made it a little more detailed if you haven't done this before. I have done it several times to adjust the driver's side window to make it seal better, something the techs can't seem to do correctly.

1. Lower driver's side window completely and remove key from ignition so you won't hear the key in ignition warning.

2. Take the taped screwdriver and insert it carefully in back of the door handle pull holder and carefully pull the plastic piece back and up to unseat the locking edge and then pull it out.

3. There are two screws to remove. Remove the cap on the upper right hand side (upper front when you face forward out the windshield) of the door panel to expose the screw and remove screw. Be careful not to crack cap. USe the covered screwdriver to do this. In the arm rest, remove the felt rubber cover and remove the Philips head screw. You may have to buy some soft double sided tape to replace the cover later.

4. There are two pins on the left/back edge of the panel. Remove the pins first. Here again use the same tape covered screwdriver you used for the cap before. Remember which pin goes where as they are different lengths. Then remove the pin seats. Once again, remember which seat goes into which hole.

5. Feel along the bottom of the panel and you will note an indentation on the door frame. Insert the taped screwdriver under the panel on either side of the indentation and pull out the panel carefully. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the indentation.

6. The pins holding the panel on the door will stay in the panel, but be sure not to lose any.

7. Along the upper edge, the panel is held by four or five flat metal blades. Pull the panel out slowly along the length. I prefer to start from the front of the door and work backward. Note the location of the metal piece in the door panel and how it seats over the metal blades on the door.

8. To complete the removal, you will need to undo three wire locking connectors: the power window controller, the door courtesy light and the power lock switch. I would recommend wearing gloves as the power window switch console has a sharp edge just behind the connector. I have the scars to prove it. Be careful not to stab the woofer when working by the speaker.

There will be a plastic water shield you will need to peel away if you need to any window work. There will be a metal shield that is held in place by three screws behind the plastic shield.

When replacing the door panel, be sure you replace the shields if they have been removed. Replacing the panel is essentially the reverse of removing, but I would recommend that after you place the upper part of the panel on the metal blades that you align the upper most pin of the backside of the panel with its hole and tap the panel in. That pin is most susceptible to being bent. The other pins should follow suit. Here, Lexus did a great job of building this because you won't have to jiggle the panel back into place. It goes back in nicely.

I hope this helps.

[amf1932]

Ronald,

After reading some of your posts, I'd like to thank you for your thoroughness & detail in doing certain repairs. They are really a pleasure to read because of your literate descriptions, and proper spelling.

Great job.

[Ronald]

You're welcome, but thank you for your kind post.

This Lexus ES 300 I own is the hardest car I ever worked on, psychologically, because with the other cars I had, a '99 VW Passat; '92, '87 and '83 Honda Accords (btw the '83 Japan built Accord was the sturdiest- no rattles); '72 Datsun 510 with the SSS engine and a POC Pinto; I felt I could screw up and no one would care, especially with the POC Pinto.

With this Lexus, I want to be sure I get the job right and I imagine that's how anyone else would feel about working on his or her own Lexus. I don't want to lead anyone astray as I wouldn't want to be looked upon as "Oh, I wouldn't trust what he posts". Even an oil and filter change makes me slightly nervous.

Thanks again.