Iacv Cleaning Made Easier

[dirtypwntang]

I posted this in another thread, but I figured I'd repost it here for visibility....

Now we've all read about the IACV cleaning, and we all know how insanely difficult it is to remove those factory-tight screws during the process. I'm sure stripping one screw has deterred a lot of us from continuing the job, or maybe just reading about it is enough to get you to take it to a shop instead. But BEFORE you do that, PLEASE read this thread...

My recommendation to you is NOT to even try using a screwdriver to break the seals. I have a properly fitting screwdriver and it was still not grabbing the heads. And yes, I'd label myself as a fairly advanced DIYer.

Go to SEARS and pick up a BOLT OUT damaged bolt remover bit set. This is different from SCREW OUT, and works better. It doesn't matter which set you buy, as long as it has both #2 and #4 bits (it'll say clearly on the package which bits are included). The difference is that the SCREW OUT (aka GRABIT) tools completely obliterate the screw, whereas BOLT OUT only damages the outside of the head. Thus, you can screw the same screw back normally using a standard screwdriver. Don't worry, the car is fine without torqueing back to insane factory specs. I rechecked the screws a week and 300 miles after my cleaning, and none of them are loose from rattling.

When you use BOLT OUT, it'll still be a pain at first, but it WILL work. Don't worry if it doesn't seem to grab immediately. It took me a lot of patience to get it to grab early on, but don't worry because you're not compromising the screw by using this tool. I found that the best way to grab the screws is to take the BOLT OUT bit, and use a hammer or other heavy object to strike it until it's seized onto the head of the screw. At THAT point, insert your socket wrench and twist away. Go slowly, and make sure to apply pressure directly downward onto the head of the screw. Repeat from the start if needed. The natural tendency is to yank the wrench to "break" the seal. Try not to do that, you'll only be wasting time.

You'll need the #4 bit for the throttle body screws (3 of them), and the #2 bit for the IACV<-->Throttle Body Screws. If I recall correctly, the #2 was the one I also used for the two screws holding the black plastic piece.

Long story short, BOLT OUT works wonders. I was incredibly skeptical at first, but once I got the hang of it, those pesky screws came right out, and I didn't have to buy replacements for them. I can think of a handful of times when knowing about BOLT OUT would have helped me with previous projects.

Cheers, and happy cleaning.

[edbro]

Thanks for the tip. I bought the set the first time you recommended it as it was on sale then for only $10. I haven't used them yet though. How badly do they mangle the screw heads? Can I assume that after !Removed! them back in normally with a screwdriver that I won't need to use the Bolt Outs subsequent times?

[dirtypwntang]

Thanks for the tip. I bought the set the first time you recommended it as it was on sale then for only $10. I haven't used them yet though. How badly do they mangle the screw heads? Can I assume that after !Removed! them back in normally with a screwdriver that I won't need to use the Bolt Outs subsequent times?

They don't really do much damage to the screw heads. They'll bite into the sides of the heads and leave little marks, but they leave the rest in-tact. Yes, I think it's safe to say that you won't need the BOLT OUTS afterwards. I'm not sure if any of the screws are subject to galvanization like oil pan bolts are but I doubt it'll be a big problem either way.

And just so I'm not stealing anybody's thunder, the original idea was provided by another user. However, he wasn't very clear on if they REALLY worked, and stated that #4 would do the whole job. I PMed him asking for more details, but never got a response. I figured I'd take a chance anyway so I bought the tool. I'm merely stating more detailed observations.