dirtypwntang

That actually doesn't solve the problem. I did that, and it proved to be only a very very very partial job. There are several little "chambers" inside the IACV that require direct spraying and rubbing w/ Q-Tip or cloth. To be safe, I decided to just go ahead and do the full job. Once I opened it up, I noticed that there are other chambers that the spray-in-the-hole-method CAN'T reach. The problem will come back for you, as it will for everybody else. But in your case, it'll be a lot sooner.

They don't really do much damage to the screw heads. They'll bite into the sides of the heads and leave little marks, but they leave the rest in-tact. Yes, I think it's safe to say that you won't need the BOLT OUTS afterwards. I'm not sure if any of the screws are subject to galvanization like oil pan bolts are but I doubt it'll be a big problem either way. And just so I'm not stealing anybody's thunder, the original idea was provided by another user. However, he wasn't very clear on if they REALLY worked, and stated that #4 would do the whole job. I PMed him asking for more details, but never got a response. I figured I'd take a chance anyway so I bought the tool. I'm merely stating more detailed observations.

I posted this in another thread, but I figured I'd repost it here for visibility.... Now we've all read about the IACV cleaning, and we all know how insanely difficult it is to remove those factory-tight screws during the process. I'm sure stripping one screw has deterred a lot of us from continuing the job, or maybe just reading about it is enough to get you to take it to a shop instead. But BEFORE you do that, PLEASE read this thread... My recommendation to you is NOT to even try using a screwdriver to break the seals. I have a properly fitting screwdriver and it was still not grabbing the heads. And yes, I'd label myself as a fairly advanced DIYer. Go to SEARS and pick up a BOLT OUT damaged bolt remover bit set. This is different from SCREW OUT, and works better. It doesn't matter which set you buy, as long as it has both #2 and #4 bits (it'll say clearly on the package which bits are included). The difference is that the SCREW OUT (aka GRABIT) tools completely obliterate the screw, whereas BOLT OUT only damages the outside of the head. Thus, you can screw the same screw back normally using a standard screwdriver. Don't worry, the car is fine without torqueing back to insane factory specs. I rechecked the screws a week and 300 miles after my cleaning, and none of them are loose from rattling. When you use BOLT OUT, it'll still be a pain at first, but it WILL work. Don't worry if it doesn't seem to grab immediately. It took me a lot of patience to get it to grab early on, but don't worry because you're not compromising the screw by using this tool. I found that the best way to grab the screws is to take the BOLT OUT bit, and use a hammer or other heavy object to strike it until it's seized onto the head of the screw. At THAT point, insert your socket wrench and twist away. Go slowly, and make sure to apply pressure directly downward onto the head of the screw. Repeat from the start if needed. The natural tendency is to yank the wrench to "break" the seal. Try not to do that, you'll only be wasting time. You'll need the #4 bit for the throttle body screws (3 of them), and the #2 bit for the IACV<-->Throttle Body Screws. If I recall correctly, the #2 was the one I also used for the two screws holding the black plastic piece. Long story short, BOLT OUT works wonders. I was incredibly skeptical at first, but once I got the hang of it, those pesky screws came right out, and I didn't have to buy replacements for them. I can think of a handful of times when knowing about BOLT OUT would have helped me with previous projects. Cheers, and happy cleaning.

Update: I did the IACV cleaning and it turned out GREAT. For anybody who is hesitant to do this procedure because you're afraid of stripping those notoriously difficult screws, you MUST MUST MUST read this post. My recommendation to you is NOT to even try using a screwdriver to break the heads. I have a properly fitting screwdriver and it was still not grabbing the heads. And yes, I'd label myself as a fairly advanced DIYer. Go to SEARS and pick up a BOLT OUT damaged bolt remover bit set. This is different from SCREW OUT, and works better. It doesn't matter which set you buy, as long as it has both #2 and #4 bits (it'll say clearly on the package which bits are included). The difference is that the SCREW OUT (aka GRABIT) tools completely obliterate the screw, whereas BOLT OUT only damages the outside of the head. Thus, you can screw the same screw back normally using a standard screwdriver. Don't worry, the car is fine without torqueing back to insane factory specs. I rechecked the screws a week and 300 miles after my cleaning, and none of them are loose from rattling. When you use BOLT OUT, it'll still be a pain at first, but it WILL work. Don't worry if it doesn't seem to grab immediately. It took me a lot of patience to get it to grab early on, but don't worry because you're not compromising the screw by using this tool. I found that the best way to grab the screws is to take the BOLT OUT bit, and use a hammer or other heavy object to strike it until it's seized onto the head of the screw. At THAT point, insert your socket wrench and twist away. Go slowly, and make sure to apply pressure directly downward onto the head of the screw. Repeat from the start if needed. The natural tendency is to yank the wrench to "break" the seal. Try not to do that, you'll only be wasting time. You'll need the #4 bit for the throttle body screws (3 of them), and the #2 bit for the IACV<-->Throttle Body Screws. If I recall correctly, the #2 was the one I also used for the two screws holding the black plastic piece. Long story short, BOLT OUT works wonders. I was incredibly skeptical at first, but once I got the hang of it, those pesky screws came right out, and I didn't have to buy replacements for them. I can think of a handful of times when knowing about BOLT OUT would have helped me with previous projects.

I mean like one of those STP fuel treatment additives. You might have mistaken what I was trying to say... This will NOT clean out the IACV. But the dealer is recommending they clean engine valves directly (not the IAC Valve), if I read the original poster's thread correctly. At their stated price, you could probably buy a dozen bottles of fuel treatment and it'd essentially do the same thing, really.

You're probably having the same problem I'm having. Search for IACV on these forums, and there's a lot of info on it. That's the "correct" term for the "idle motor" you speak of. Need to finish up the cleaning tonight, once I find a proper replacement screw. Long story short, you probably should try cleaning it before you buy a new one. It'll be $5 (tops) for a can of throttle body cleaner, $1 (tops) to replace any screws you strip trying to remove the heads, and $15 (tops) for a damaged screw removal bit. Of course, if you don't end up stripping the heads like I did, you'll only need the cleaner and a screwdriver. It's worth it before spending $640 on potentially pointless "repairs". As for cleaning up valves, you might be well off w/ a $10 bottle of fuel additive. That's probably all the stealership will do anyway. I personally would buy two bottles and use for two full-tank fillups.

Hey everybody. I attempted to remove my IACV and ended up completely destroying the head on one of the screws during the process. I was wondering if anybody knows the correct sizes of the screws used in this cleaning. I plan to buy them and then use a GrabIt bit to take out the damaged screws. Any help greatly appreciated.