Overhaul

[chilkoot]

I recieved my first round of parts today from LPO, and I wanted to make sure I don't overlook anything before I start.

I'm going to be replacing the timing belt/tensioners/idler and serpentine belt/tensioner/idler, water pump, thermostat, distributor rotors+caps, ignition wires and plugs. I've got the tutorial from LexLS.com to guide me, and I think mechanically I'm up to the task. Before I start, are there any soft parts needed that aren't usually included with OEM parts? gaskets or anything? Also, I ordered both tensioners and one is a complete pulley assembly on a bracket while another is just a metal cylinder with a pin through it, presumably to be pulled after it is installed. Should there be a second pulley to replace or is just the cylinder enough for that tensioner?

I know i'll need to buy fresh coolant, radiator flush fluid, harmonic balancer pulley remover, a breaker bar for the crank pulley and high-temp red sealant for the water pump. The timing tutorial mentions that there are two o-rings that need to be replaced with the water pump, neither came with the pump (water inlet is one of them, i believe). What size are they and would I be able to find them at a local hardware store?

Also, in removing the crank pulley you use a 22mm socket to set the engine to TDC before you remove the crank pulley, but what holds the engine at TDC while you remove that 22mm crank bolt? Do I need to make sure I don't turn the engine at all while I'm removing anything else, or are the reference points on the cam pulleys and crank enough to make sure I get the timing right on re-assembly?

If anyone here has done this themselves I would appreciate any advice or forethought I can get before I start. I think today I'll just drain the coolant, remove the fan and radiator and replace the engine coolant reservoir for a nice slow start.

Thanks everyone

-Adam

[Harky]

RE your question about the crank pulley...

I've read that the smart thing to do it to break it loose, but don't completely remove it, prior to stripping the front of the engine. That way you don't loose your timing alignment. I also remember something about using the engine starter motor to break the crank pulley bolt loose...but I'm not sure of this...particularly the direction of engine rotation, so maybe someone else can verify this...

FWIW, the OEM timing belt has marks that facilitate aligning the crank and both cam pulleys, so don't worry too much about holding positions during teardown.

[chilkoot]

i actually just wasn't reading the guide closely enough, LexLS says to remove the timing belt prior to trying to remove the crank pulley, so there's no risk of mussing the cam timing when the crank turns.

I'm not too too worried about removing the crank bolt as far as torque goes, you can always get more leverage. Is it dangerous to try and remove the bolt without pinning down the crank pulley first?

[miamistyle]

Do you have a thermostat gasket? I'm not sure on the 1st gen, but I didn't get one for my 2nd gen and had to scramble for one.

Also, do the 1st gens have crank and cam seals? If so, I didn't see them mentioned on your list and it would definitely be the time to do them if the 1st gen has them.

Looks like your going to save a bundle on doing it yourself!

[chilkoot]

perfect, thanks. would a local parts store have front crank seals and a thermostat gasket?

[etex]

These will probably be found only at a Lexus Dealership.

[chilkoot]

according to the internets there aren't any Lexus dealers nearby, would a Toyota dealership stock them by chance?

[92Lex]

You shouldn't have a problem finding those seals because most stores will carry the front crankshaft seal and camshaft seals.

It would be easier to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt if you're able to lock the crankshaft in place but it's not neccessary, though. The only time you should really worry about moving the crankshaft is when you have relieved the tension on the timing belt but even then, the engine in your car is a "non-interfence" engine.