Wash And Wax Steps For A Newbie

[SW03ES]

Hey Deanski, great to see you over here (I'm GoodnClean if you didnt notice lol)

You've been a member since May?!? How did I not notice?

Deanski's right about the Autopia guide, definately lots of great information there.

Autopia's a great place, and David's a great guy. Soon in the future actually there's going to be a joint venture between LOC and Autopia thats going to result in some great new information sources and product sources for our members. Keep a look out for it

[acf]

NuFinish is total crap, trust us on this one LOL.

Curious to get your opinion on this report.

auto_polishes.zip

[SW03ES]

The general consensus is consumers have rated it highly because they don't know any better. It "lasts a year" blah blah and they like that. Among the professionals and the big time hobbyist detailers, concours winners and such NuFinish goes in the bin with Turtle Wax as Grocery store garbage. Its really no cheaper, and nowhere near as good as other polymer sealants.

[ticman]

I agree with Steve (SW03ES) with regards to Poorboys EX. It is easy to use and inexpensive. I have applied 2 coats and plan to do a third before winter. I have used it on my rear window as a test to see how it would work relative to RainX and find that it works great. Having a silver car I may not "wax" as I am very happy with the sealant.

Mike :)

[kuflinks]

It's not a paint protection system. I had it applied to my Mustang Bullitt GT back in 2001. They use a clay-bar technique. The cost in Michigan is $350 and yearly "touch-ups" are $150. No need to wax your car ever again. My Bullitt has won many awards at shows. It's a mirror finish. This is what they do:

* Complete chemical bath

* Removal of contaminants

* Polish to maximum shine

* Hand apply Diamond Gloss

* Machine spread product

* Buff to maximum Gloss

* Detail with micro fiber cloth

* Remove windshield contaminants

* Apply Aquapel Glass Treatment

* Clean & dress wheels and tires (will apply gloss if wheels are clearcoated)

[SW03ES]

I use a "claybar technique" also and it cost me $19, not $350. Its a waste of money in my opinion. I've talked to several detailers that routinely fix the damage caused by these Ziebart places. It is a paint protection system, its a system designed to protect the paint.

And the system has to be re-applied every year, there's no such thing as a paint sealant that lasts forever. You pay them $150 to rewax it every year! Their prices are laughably rediculous, you can get a TOTAL detail inside and out by a great independent detailer for $150 on a Mustang. The car will look better then Ziebart would ever make it look.

I do everything you listed top my car 2 times a year, EVERYTHING and then some except I use a different sealant. Costs me maybe $20 in products and my own time.

It is however, your money. They're not getting mine though.

[DEANSKI]

Hey Deanski, great to see you over here (I'm GoodnClean if you didnt notice lol)

You've been a member since May?!? How did I not notice?

Deanski's right about the Autopia guide, definately lots of great information there.

Autopia's a great place, and David's a great guy. Soon in the future actually there's going to be a joint venture between LOC and Autopia thats going to result in some great new information sources and product sources for our members. Keep a look out for it

Hey GNC!

DOH!

Still like your results on your Lexus!

Back to Autopia...

Regards,

Deanski

[SW03ES]

Glad to see the Autopia site survived the hacking! I was concerned David would loose a lot of his data.

[allenlucky]

Which Poorboy's EX...the pure one or the one with Carnauba?

[SW03ES]

Either one, each are a little different. EX is deeper while EX-P is clearer looking.

[Geo]

acf: Welcome to the world of being confused on what product to use. Everybody will have their favorite product and this thread will probably end up in a *BLEEP*ing contest between camps.

I'm a new Lexus owner (01ES 300)as well, my advise... Chill. If the car is clean and does not really need immidiate attention relax and don't rush. I have figured that washing a nice car vs a "common" car is basically the same just a little more carefully and with better products. Wash with a good car detergent, use super soft towels/gloves, don't use circular motions while washing or drying or waxing, Dry and wax or polish. Pick a good quality product and dont worry.

You are lucky to have a white car, mine is black and even though it is a super elegant looking car it is a pain in the !Removed! to keep clean. My car is garaged so I'm lucky to get away with the CA duster and a couple of quick detail jobs with the spray on stuff.

As for products... you have to realize that there are guys here that live to keep their cars spotless. They have hours of time to use q-tips on every crevice of their car. Not only do they use one product but a combination of products that would make a chemist proud. Nothing wrong with that if you have the time. For most of us "mortals" following a good common sense washing procedure should be just fine. Again now your washing expensive car so you are more careful and use better products.

This IJMHO. Later, George

[TOGWT]

~One man’s opinion / observations ~

Good advice from SWO3ES (as always) I would only take issue with one point

“Wash the car with dawn dishwashing liquid…”

Washing-up liquids should not be used on vehicles bodywork as their concentrated detergent and usually high sodium / high alkaline detergent soaps content will remove polish / wax and dry out the protective oils from the paint film, rubber and vinyl surfaces, and cause the clear coat to fail (can you tell its a pet peeve of mine)

MKENIK-."Diamond Gloss." It is applied by a Ziebart store

There is no polymer, synthetic or natural wax, or after-market product available that can provide lifetime protection to a paint film surface.

The primary protection provided for a modern water-based colour coat is a polythene resin that has a thickness of 2-3 Mils (0.002-0.003”) this is protected by a sacrificial barrier of wax or synthetic polymer sealant. This barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants (UV radiation, acid rain, ozone, industrial pollution, rain, road dirt and tar, etc) and the paint film surface. This renewable barrier is less than 0.000001” thick.

While its true that a polymer resins melting point is 375oF, it is still subject to evaporation and erosion by the elements and vehicle washing. However its durability is approximately five or six months.

The technology for a lifetime protection for a vehicles paint film surface does not currently exist.

~Hope this helps~

Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/Jon

justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*

[SW03ES]

TOG- That was posted by me a long time ago, I have since agreed with those of you that feel dawn is improper to use even as a part of pre-detail prep.

acf: Welcome to the world of being confused on what product to use. Everybody will have their favorite product and this thread will probably end up in a *BLEEP*ing contest between camps.

Not in my detailing forum they won't. We discuss detailing and detailing products here, anyone who tries to lord a product over someone else or tries to start a *BLEEP*ing match is dealt with promptly.

If the car is clean and does not really need immidiate attention relax and don't rush.

I agree with this somewhat. No the car doesn't need to be completely detailed immediately, but it does need a coat of wax or sealant now in order to protect the paint from pollen, water spots, bug guts, tree sap, bird bombs and just plain wear and tear. These things can seriously damage the paint if left on too long, and the wax barrier provides an extra measure of protection. I take care of an 04 BMW 530i (I wash it every week and will be waxing it every 3 months for the lady) with 1500 miles on it, its about 2 months old and garage kept. There are ALREADY several etched water spots, bug marks, and bird bomb spots that will have to be machine compounded out because she didn't wax the car other than the dealer's prep. Cars really need to be waxed every three months, or in areas with a lot of pollution even every month.

So you can wait on the detailing, but do go ahead and have it waxed.