Synthetic Oils...

[TTimlin]

I have a '92 ES and I am coming up for an oil change soon and I was wondering what I should use. I drive about 500 miles a week <_< and I probably don't drive as slowly as I should. I have used Royal Purple 10W30 for a while and was wondering what/if there is anything better or more cost effecient. (Change oil every 2500-3000 miles)

Also, we are coming up on winter here soon. Should I change the oil weight. The temperatures will be ranging anywhere from 20 to 75 degrees.

P.S. Would I get any fuel economy, performance, or steering improvements from flushing and refilling the power steering fluid system?

[Toysrme]

You should flush the powersteering fluid anyway. Aswell as the transmission fluid, differential fluid, and brake fluid. 10w-30, and 5w-20 are recommended oils. 5w-30 is the preffered oil on the entire scale. From well below freezing to 110*F.

RP is a good oil, it's just expencive & doesn't test as good as other oils in Toyota's. Mobil1 synthetic / EP can't be beat. You have to spend 2-3x the money for AMSoil to test any better, yet it doesn't *really* test much different. It tests a hair worse as much as it does a hair better.

If you just want a synthetc oil to do a quick drain with. Walmart's Super-Tech 5w-30 synthetic is like less than $10 for a 5 quart jug. It's not a long lived synthetic oil, but it's a good buy for the factory 4500mile oil change.

2000-3000 miles is a ripoff LoL! Anything short of recycled oil oughta do the 4500 mile schedule without the oil begining to tank into junk.

If you want economy drop it down to the newest 5w-20 oils. Gain a couple of horsepower, may gain an mpg or 2 on the highway.

[TTimlin]

I change it 2000-4000 miles.. just whenever it becomes dirty.. depending on driving, conditions and how much crap it decided to clean out of the motor (got it from a junkyard!!)

About the power steering.. what would i need to do to drain, flush and refil the whole system?

brakes and tranny filter&flush i just did 500 miles or so ago when i did my brakes (Bendix.. not so thrilled with them so far) (Mobil 1 Synthetic Dexron V.. very satisfied)

anything else you reccomend for that motor i got.. i seafoamed the hell out of it then did 130 afterwards cause it was smokin like a mf..

[mburnickas]

RP is a good oil, it's just expencive & doesn't test as good as other oils in Toyota's. Mobil1 synthetic / EP can't be beat. You have to spend 2-3x the money for AMSoil to test any better, yet it doesn't *really* test much different. It tests a hair worse as much as it does a hair better.

If you just want a synthetc oil to do a quick drain with. Walmart's Super-Tech 5w-30 synthetic is like less than $10 for a 5 quart jug. It's not a long lived synthetic oil, but it's a good buy for the factory 4500mile oil change.

2000-3000 miles is a ripoff LoL! Anything short of recycled oil oughta do the 4500 mile schedule without the oil begining to tank into junk.

If you want economy drop it down to the newest 5w-20 oils. Gain a couple of horsepower, may gain an mpg or 2 on the highway.

I like Mobil EP, Amsoil and Redline. For best $$$ for long drains is Amsoil hands down. For Moly in group a 5, Redline is it. For a low cost "up to 15,000" miles, Mobil is good. For a few more dollars Amsoil can do "up to 25,000" miles. The call is in the UOA for me.

I state the following since Mobil EP around here is $28.97 for 5-qts. Amsoil (ASL) at a local (race) store is $6.25 per QT. So that is $31.25 for 5-qts.

But as Toysrme stated "Chinamart" full synthetic is $13.98 around here for 5-qts. Heck I am using it right now :) and going to compare to my old Amsoil ASL tests (4) with same miles; however, I am using LC20 so I want to see how it does. Like always, will post UOA when complete.

There is not best oil here. You need to see what fits your budget then see what works for YOU in your application.

[Toysrme]

Sure do alittle tuning, put a Walbro 190 in it & throw a 75 wet shot on it.

[TTimlin]

Actually.. how well do these motors hold up to nitrous? I think it would be somewhat entertaining for me to walk on some of the Mustangs and Camaros around here. Seems everyone and there mom has one and thinks they're faster than anything on the road..

[Gryphon]

Regarding a power steering fluid change, I recently did one on my Porsche 968. I chose a low-tech approach, namely sucking out the available fluid with a syringe and refilling several consecutive times--multiple dilutions so to speak. The extra fluid (ATF in my case) is quite cheap, and an easy tradeoff versus trying to disassemble the power steering system and remove every drop of fluid.

Tom

[Toysrme]

Provided you drop a heat range NGK/Denso plug, drop afew * of ignition timing, and add in the appropriate fuel. They hold-up very well. VZ's have been making 450-550bhp aslong as you have a real good tune & take it real easy. Keep the effective compression ratio low enough to please the pretty :\ factory head gaskets & *never* let the engine overheat.

Providing that, the transmissions (The A/T, or the factory clutch in a manual) limit the engine. Not the other way around.

A 75 wet shot is the maximum we recommend without upgrading the fuel system.