timothy Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 hello, I have an 04 es 330, dark blue, been using Meguiars nxt tech wax, doing all by hand, no swirl directions when applying wax or removing, I have a black and decker buffer, old one I think 8 inch dia. no real problem areas on car, whats the best buffer to use? or is doing a good job by hand better? I did some detail body work years ago, mostly grunt work, but learned how to be careful and leave some things to the pros. hope everyone has a good safe holiday, thanks. Timothy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 The absolute best product for a hobbyist to use is a Porter Cable Dual Action Orbital buffer. The old Black and Decker one doesn't have a lot of oomph. The Porter Cable (PC) has the power neccissary, it also has the ability to swap out and use a wide variety of different pads for different purposes, and since its an orbital its still plenty safe. Check it out here: http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCar...7c87+1148919057 You'll also need a pad set, I'd reccomend these: http://www.pakshak.com/lake-country-variab...ntact-pads.html As far as whether you need it or not, it will make polishing and waxing a lot easier whether you have swirls or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 I can't comment since I have not waxed a car in 15 years. Also only use a rotary buffer with Dri-wash. Something to think about. never waxed to date and still like glass! http://home.comcast.net/~burnick/car_clean/car_clean.htm http://home.comcast.net/%7Emburnickas/Bike/outside_bike.JPG I can clean and polish and clay in 1.50 hours and my bike take 25 minutes to clean/polish and wax. Not bad but you use less "corona" LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott M Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 hello, I have an 04 es 330, dark blue, been using Meguiars nxt tech wax, doing all by hand, no swirl directions when applying wax or removing, I have a black and decker buffer, old one I think 8 inch dia. no real problem areas on car, whats the best buffer to use? or is doing a good job by hand better? I did some detail body work years ago, mostly grunt work, but learned how to be careful and leave some things to the pros. hope everyone has a good safe holiday, thanks. Timothy What did you think of that wax... the Meguiars NXT? I just bought some and used it on my brand new Acura MDX yesterday (Took 3 1/2 hours) It was easy to use and the car looks fantastic, but the feel when the car is lightly rubbed with my knuckles.... it lacks something... I know this is a synthetic, maybe that's the issue. I'm used to the carnuba waxes, which leaves a VERY smooth feel. I think this NXT stuff, although easy to use, may require 2 coats or more. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Oh God, a rotary buffer with Dri Wash?!?! Are you insane? Please, nobody do that. First of all a rotary buffer is a very powerful tool and should only be used by someone who REALLY knows what they're doing. On top of that, Dri Wash is not a product that is designed to be used with any buffer at all. I'll copy and paste my response to mburnickas last time he tried to hock Dri Wash in here: While DriWash is an okay way to clean a car provided it is relatively clean (I still have seen people HORRIBLY scrape up their cars using Dri Wash and guard and will never EVER use it on my car, but I also know people who use it and its fine. I can see the etchings and marrings in your paint from your own pictures), it offers little to no protection at all. Its not going to guard against oxidation and its not going to help protect against etchings from bugs or bird droppings. On top of that, it just doesn't look as good as a car that is regularly detailed. You should still regularly detail and seal the paint, even if you use Dri Wash to clean.Plus, you never flush the underbody or any of the seams and seals. Now, he's going to come back and fight with me about this no doubt, so I'll lay it out there so everybody can decide. I've been detailing cars for 11 years, and I detailed them professionally for 3. I have used a LOT of detailing products over that time period, some good some bad INCLUDING Dri Wash and Guard. I also wrote all of the articles posted here about the proper process for detailing a vehicle. You can substitute a lot of the products, but the process works. Stuff like Dri Wash and guard is hocked by the same salespeople at car shows that sell those miracle carpet cleaners that don't work. There are much better products out there, including products you can use to wash your car without a hose that won't give you the potential for damaging your finish the way Dri Wash and Guard does. One of them is this: Protect All Quick and Easy Wash: http://www.protectall.com/qelg.htm I use this in the winter in my garage. Hell, I use it in the summer sometimes too. All you need is one gallon of water, a good microfiber sponge and a waffle weave microfiber towel. It was originally formulated for RVs and Boats. If you want to add some protection you can spritz with Eagle One Wax as U Dry as you're drying the car off. Now, this will only last about a week but in theory if you washed and used it every week you could get around traditionally waxing altogether. Trust me. I know what I'm talking about, don't use Dri Wash and CERTAINLY never use it with any buffer let alone a rotary. What did you think of that wax... the Meguiars NXT?I just bought some and used it on my brand new Acura MDX yesterday (Took 3 1/2 hours) It was easy to use and the car looks fantastic, but the feel when the car is lightly rubbed with my knuckles.... it lacks something... I know this is a synthetic, maybe that's the issue. I'm used to the carnuba waxes, which leaves a VERY smooth feel. I think this NXT stuff, although easy to use, may require 2 coats or more. Thoughts? NXT is a good product, but in my experience it lacks durability and with all the cleaners in it it can't be layered. Its not REALLY a polymer sealant in the way we're talking about true Polymers here (Zaino, Klasse, etc). That feeling is probably the difference between a polymer product and a carnuaba product. What you can do is top your sealant with a non-cleaning carnuaba wax if you want the best of both worlds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 So now all rotaries are bad? I do not think 1,500 rpm's is insane here. Next, you are incorrect here Sw03. Driwash is made and has instructions to be used by hand or with a machine; right on the bottle (has for years). I personally did not get "hooked" on from cars shows. I got on it from body shops and even Yankee Candle Car museum used it on there cars; Millions of $$$ in rare cars here. No protection here? Have you used it for long periods over dirt, salt etc? My car/bike etc will still bead up in the rain 8 to 10 months over 1 year on my bike/tractor after being done. Again not starting a debate but my car was bought used and the stratches where from them (original owner - and I told them when I bought it) and everytime the stealship workeded on it (3 times, they wash it and they stratch it). Last time it looked like the car was washed with sandpaper and I flipped out. I even wrote a letter to Lexus Corp on these crappy dealer and what they did. Again I can show up-to-date pix on the car, bike etc and they look mint. I also only detailed for about 5 to 6 years (second job for auto body friend) and people loved the worked. I have only started detailig since 1991/92. A rotary is nothing to be scared of if people know what they are doing (same goes for any tool). If people are scratching their cars, it is the users issue not the product. Saying this is like saying synthetic oil will harm an engine when going longer; which is incorrect. So you dislike the product, I can respect you for that. For me, it works mint but (as I say about oils too) find me a better product with no water to use (no matter the amount), can apply over road salts- dirt etc (from MA winters) protect/ shine the finish and price is same/less and I will look at it. So far, the selection is far and few. I like going on to a heated garage in -5 below F in Winters with 8 to 12" of snow and cleaning the car....Now that is fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Rotaries are wonderful, IF you know how to use them and IF you use them with the right products. When used improperly and with stuff like Dri Wash, you can literally ruin the paint even at 1500 RPM. Trust me, I've seen it 100 times. If you want to see what happens over time when someone uses a rotary improperly look at 93ls400's post about his failing paint in the LS forum. I'm not saying you are using it improperly (although I BEG you never to use it with Dri Wash again, its not designed for that type of application) but you shouldn't encourage others to use one without the proper experience. And, of course they use Dri Wash on cars in the Yankee Car Museum, they never go outside! Its perfectly safe on cars that aren't that dirty, I just wouldn't use it on anything really dirty. So you dislike the product, I can respect you for that. For me, it works mint but (as I say about oils too) find me a better product with no water to use (no matter the amount), can apply over road salts- dirt etc (from MA winters) protect/ shine the finish and price is same/less and I will look at it. So far, the selection is far and few. You really should try the Quick & Easy Wash product I mentioned and posted the link to. I use it all the time in the winter in my garage and even use it in the summer when its so hot that water spotting is a problem. Optimum has another new product out that is similar that others say works even better, but I haven't tried it yet. I like that product better than Dri Wash because it uses at least some water (you need 1 gallon in a bucket) and lubricates better. You should try it. As a matter of fact, if you want a sample PM me I'll send you one. No protection here? Have you used it for long periods over dirt, salt etc? My car/bike etc will still bead up in the rain 8 to 10 months over 1 year on my bike/tractor after being done. I have. Water beading is not evidence of there being any protection left on the paint. Well maintained paint will always bead provided its kept clean whether there is any protection on the paint at all. Laboratory tests have never shown ANY protectant product to be able to last longer than 5-6 months in normal atmospheric use, and thats the most advanced crosslinking polymers. The first tip off to me that a product is hype is when it preports to last longer than that. Like Wax as U Dry if you're using it every week you could go without waxing, but it won't protect for longer than a week or so. and everytime the stealship workeded on it (3 times, they wash it and they stratch it). Last time it looked like the car was washed with sandpaper and I flipped out. I even wrote a letter to Lexus Corp on these crappy dealer and what they did. Oh God, don't even get me started on the dealer's detailers. See the thread in the IS forum entitled "My IS has a lot of scratches". I never let the dealer even wash my car. Have you ever watched a dealer wash a car? Mine uses a floor broom. I swear lol And nothing wrong with a debate, I'll discuss anything with you anytime provided you don't try and railroad me and refuse to even acknowledge my position. You certainly haven't done those things and represented your position well here and I appreciate it, just wanted to make sure you knew I noticed ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 SW03ES- I got some Poorboys stuff intoday. Talk about 1 day shipping..unreal. I cleaned part of rear quarter with spray and wash over dirt (did not use the spray and gloss yet) then SSR1, then EX-P. WOW. Unreal the depth and smoooothness. I DID clay about 2 weeks ago (last time cleaned) so it should be good to go without another claying. I did get some Quick wash + but going to hold off on that; not enough time in the day... Going to do the complete car with this process (using my makita 9227 rotary at 1,000 rpms) then apply nasty's blue (by hand maybe) after all this. Will take some pix. So far I will say this, there products smell like bubble gum, apple and lime...cool ha :) I would do it today but I am doing a major reef cleaning on my coral tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Yeah the owner of Poorboys (Steve) is a terriffic guy. I am always consistently impressed with every Poorboys product I use, and it all smells so great! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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