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Srt Intake Install

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I started on mine tonight, it's not so bad.

I took all the existing off, checked out my ECU, but there is something that Mo didn't address in the instructions that I'm stumped on. There is an electrical connection at the back of the Intake Resonator that he doesn't say what to do with.

So I put it all back together.

His pictures suck, as they are copies of copies and black and white, and small, so it takes a few minutes to figure it all out, but not so bad.

Anyway, can't help you on the tutorial, and I don't think one exists. One will when I'm done, though, if you wait a few days. Next chance I have to work on it is Sunday afternoon, I'm out of town the next two days.

I'm going to take pics throughout and post a tutorial, from a novice's perspective. Most advanced thing I've done is change alternators and water pumps (and brakes, of course).

Good luck.

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I got mine put on, no problems whatsoever. You just have to take your time, especially on the wiring.

I took a ton of pictures also, and plan to do a tutorial on it since there isn't one out there. I'm kind of busy these days, and getting ready to leave town for a week, so I doubt I'll have it up soon.

I'll try to get some pics posted anyway.

For some color, though, here are some tips:

1. The 3/8 hose doesn't quite fit very well, you need an adapter they don't send to get it on to the nozzle of the sensor that comes off the back of the intake resonator (and a piece of 1/2" hose, just a few inches long, to make the transition. I haven't called SRT about this yet, but plan to.

2. Buy a soldering kit ($15) from Radioshack, and solder your joints after making them.

3. BE VERY SLOW AND PATIENT when peeling the insulation back on the 5 wires that YOU DO NOT CUT. You expose about a half inch of braided copper underneath the insulation, wrap the new wire (from the piggyback) around the exposed wire, I then crimped with some needlenose to make it nice and tight mechanically, then soldered the joint. Since it wasn't a splice, I didn't try to make heat shrink work, I just electrical taped them. ONLY USE ELECTRICAL TAPE. I've known some kids to use duct tape on electrical connections. If you want to short out your ECU, go ahead.

Be surgical in your operation, it will go smoother. I had a table pulled up to the front of my car, along with my rolling tool box. I laid out every little part from SRT, checking to make sure it was all there, and familiarizing myself with what was going where. Just be patient with taking off your intake parts, lay everything out as you remove it, being careful not to misplace any bolts or clamps. If you get into it halfway and realize it's going to take longer than you expected, just put it all back together and do it when you do have plenty of time.

TIP: I identified every wire based on the schematic (which shows on the black wire coming out of the wrong space, haven't called SRT about that either), then I went back and put twisty-ties (trash bag or bread ties) on each one. Then I TRIPLE checked each wire, making sure it had a tie on it after I located it. Then I made my connection. There is only ONE wire you actually cut. I pulled a chair up to the front of my car, by the table that had all my tools and parts systematically laid out, so I was nice and comfortable, and thus more patient. It is VERY easy to cut into the wires, the insulation is VERY thin. Just go slow.

If you solder, which you really should, then just be sure you are supported, make a couple practice joints off to the side, and then make sure that you aren't doing it directly over your ECU. Push the wires off to the side of the ECU box so if anything drips it falls harmlessly on something not important. You shouldn't drip though, since you should use very little solder on the joint. Common mistake is using too much. Read a tutorial on soldering if you've never done it. Not hard. Don't touch the solder to the iron, let the wire heat up and touch the solder to the wire. The wire off the piggyback will heat up faster, from my experience with it, and melt the solder, drawing it around the joint. Get the right solder, too, not the stuff your dad used on copper pipes.

Take your time and you'll be fine.

It pulls a lot harder, with a slight lag off the launch. Pushes me back in the seat a bit harder than before, though, when I get on it to pass or accelerate from a roll. Be prepared to hear a MUCH louder engine under WOT. Sounds good, it grew on me rather quickly (was shocked at first at how loud it grumbled). Sounds like a high tech V8.

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Did you look on SRT's website? I would check it every few days or so, sometimes they run "internet specials" and throw in free shipping or reduce the price of the intake. That's what I did, and just caught it when it was "on sale."

Good luck. I really like mine.

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Hey, guys.

Just got my intake from SRT!!

But No Instructions?!?

Anybody have a soft copy you can send me?

I would greatly appreciate it - I already emailed SR...but gettin it installed tomorrow at Carson...need those instructions...

Thanks guys!

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Installed last night - couldn't be happier...I shouldn't have bought the plp in the first place..it doesn't even compare...

Great sound...and you definitely feel the extra punch...especially during freeway driving when you open her up!!

Couldn't be happier...I also has someone else install it...as I live in a condo complex...couldn't get electricity to the car for soldering...

Tried the portable cold heat solderer from radio shack..it sux...don't even waste your time on trying it, honestly.

Anyways, for anyone near the beach areas in LA...Playa West Auto....$117.00 installed.

Worth it to me as I woulda had to buy the solderer, solder, extension chord(s), wire stripper, wrench set, etc. anyways to do it myself...again, I dont have a garage to work on my car or to store tools in etc.


Question though - my SRT kit came with a "blue" cone filter - anyone else have one of these and know why they changed filters?

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