Lexusing Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 Hello Everybody.....my 96 LS 400 has a little over 70K miles on it.....has always been service at the dealer....recently I notice that in the morning (when engine is cold) I need at least two cranks before the engine start....my 91 Integra which has over 175K need only one crank to start the engine....any idea? Fuel additive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMF Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 nah, its ok, same story with our 96 LS while our 91 legend starts right on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusing Posted August 4, 2003 Author Share Posted August 4, 2003 ;) VMP-Thanks for the reply...have a great day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddLS400 Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 I disagree, your LS should start on the first crank. My '90 has 132K on it and it starts on the first crank every time. Is your gas milage down? What's your average MPG (city & highway)? Tune up? Clogged injectors? Air filter? Plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 Soem parts of the country use "oxygenated" fuels for pollution control. I have heard regular use of these fuels can cause problems. Most likely it's something like the fuel injectors kinda clogged. I know people are opposed to fuel additives but I would use a bottle of either Slick 50, fuel system treatment, or Valvoline fuel system treatment. $10 a bottle (don't use ant cheap stuff or anything else as I tried them). It works very well for cleaning injectors. I only use it when I need it. I'm getting 24.3 MPG on the highways, when I see a drop, I check stuff out. All you can lose is $10 to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexusing Posted August 4, 2003 Author Share Posted August 4, 2003 Just had a major maint., timing belt, fan belt, plugs, tie rod (was told by dealer it is a wearable parts) and air filter were replace about a month ago. Not sure about fuel filter or average mileage tho. I will keep my eyes on it.... My front break pads are at about 20%....I have exprience replacing pads on my Integra and Honda Accords....How hard it is to replace on the LS400? Any idea of parts cost and where I can get them other then the dealer? How about the wear indicator? Thanks for all replies.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddLS400 Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 The best injector cleaner for me is the C5 octane booster that you get at performance shops. I get my stuff from Honest Performance in the Seattle area. It's a bit expensive ($8-10/bottle) but it works. My milage goes up about 3-5 miles per gallon when I use it and it continues to be above average for tanks to follow. You can smell a chemical type of burn off from your tailpipes when using it. I also put C5 in my '93 Suzuki GSXR750 for MORE added power. I can't keep the front wheel down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMF Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 it might be smth with generation II engines, my engine had its tune up with all the filters changed and its still not starting right away. i'm not worried about it because it works perfectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted August 4, 2003 Share Posted August 4, 2003 Brakes on the LS400 are VERY easy to change. The hardest part is getting off the lug nuts that some idiot had torqued on so tight, I had to slip a peice of conduit over the lug wrench for leverage. VMF posted a diagram of the brakes. The only tools you'll need are a 14mm wrench (there is one in the on-board tool kit), a 10mm wrench for the bleeder (also included) and a C-clamp. 1. Jack up car remove wheel 2. put the tire or safety stand under the car (unless you are brave) 3. Remove lower 14mm bolt, do not remove top bolt. 4. Take a digital picture or look at VMS's posting) so you know what all the parts are (they are logical and simple). 5. Hold the pads and shims and rotate inner caliper out. 6. Clean off caliper boot (if you want, prevents future sticking) 7. Place a small pice of wood or metal over the caliper piston and using a c-clamp, compress the piston back into the cylinder (this allows you to fit the new pads over the rotor) BUT!!!! 8. AS YOU COMPRESS THE PISTON INTO THE CYLINDER, OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE. tHIS PREVENTS DAMAGE TO THE ANTI-LOCK SENSORS. They could be damaged by not doing so but not always). 9. Remove old pads and shims while examining exactly how they are aligned (also very easy). Remove the two wear sensors and install on new pads. 10. Reassemble pads, shims and springs (not difficult) 11. Pull outward on the caliper (it's on a sliding shaft) and push the assembly down over the rotor (smooth as silk) 12. Install 14mm bolt you removed. 13. Put on wheels and tighten. 14. Don't brake hard (unless you have to not hit something) until pads "seat" (about 500 miles or less). 15. Go out to dinner with a small part of the money you saved. In some situations, the rotor may be damaged if the old pads were down to the metal. Depending on how bad they are scored, you may want to have them turned. In the past, I've driven other cars with majorly scored rotors and they do fine but they do wear out the new pads quicker, If I'm wrong on any of this I would appreciate any corrections or tips so everyone knows. Hope this helps Denny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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