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Posted

Hi, I bought a 1993 Lexus ES300 about 3 months ago from a friend. She said she had no problem with it other than engine oil leak. It has 128k miles. I sent the car to a mechanic and he said he had to fix a lot of leaks(??? am a woman and know nothign about cars)and I was charged $1020. 2 weeks later, the O/D light started to blink. I sent car in again and mechanis said he has to change the solenoid. He did but the light is still blinking. Took the car away, paid $500 and problem still not solved. Now he thinks its a computer faulty. Before I put more money into this car, can someone tell me what could be wrong with it and if I can still drive the car safely with the ligh blinking. Mechanic said transmission is good. I am so stressed over the car. Thought I could use it for at least 3 years. Appreciate an adv, Tks


Posted

Sorry girl, we can't tell you what's wrong yet 'cause you really haven't told us a problem, or symptom of what's going on!

Here's what you do. (And you won't even get a nail dirty!)

In the engine bay there is a black plastic box on the passanger side named DIAGNOSTIC.

Open the Diagnostic port. Take something metal, (a paperclip, wire, or whatever), and push it in TE1 and E1.

CEL-H2D.jpg

This will turn the computer into Diagnostic mode. it will also cause the check engline like to flash on & off-telling you stored codes.

It'll most likely flash a:

42 (4 quick, pause, 2 quick, pause)

61

62

63

64

It will flash any codes in order, and repeate them from the beginning.

We need to know the, or any code numbers you have.

So you don't know anything & there is a good chance you just got screwed. On the other hand you've got something most of us don't have. An unwavering ability to "play" stupid & sexual regardless of what anyone tells you, trap them like a bug, them stomp them when you let them know you actually do know what's going on.

My suggestion:

1) Get us the code

2) We'll tell you what's going on, and give a few possibilities of what's causing it

3) Call the mechanic, play extremely dumb & ask them exactly what they did.

4) B-slap the mechanic for !Removed! you around

Depending on what's going on, you should be able to drive the car around, but go easily. If a shift solenoid/wiring is bad, you'll be missing gears. That can strain it the engine & transmission from working too hard, or strain it from having to work fast for long periods of time. Ya you can drive it around, just don't drive it hard. Go eaaaaasy.

Anyways you're doing now what you need 2 do from now on. You don't *need* to know how a car works... Simply know how to go ask the people that do! From now on, any car problem you have, find a forum online for that vehicle & ask what's going on b4 you let someone do work. (If that is an option)

Posted

Sorry girl, we can't tell you what's wrong yet 'cause you really haven't told us a problem, or symptom of what's going on!

Here's what you do. (And you won't even get a nail dirty!)

In the engine bay there is a black plastic box on the passanger side named DIAGNOSTIC.

Open the Diagnostic port. Take something metal, (a paperclip, wire, or whatever), and push it in TE1 and E1.

CEL-H2D.jpg

This will turn the computer into Diagnostic mode. it will also cause the check engline like to flash on & off-telling you stored codes.

It'll most likely flash a:

42 (4 quick, pause, 2 quick, pause)

61

62

63

64

It will flash any codes in order, and repeate them from the beginning.

We need to know the, or any code numbers you have.

So you don't know anything & there is a good chance you just got screwed. On the other hand you've got something most of us don't have. An unwavering ability to "play" stupid & sexual regardless of what anyone tells you, trap them like a bug, them stomp them when you let them know you actually do know what's going on.

My suggestion:

1) Get us the code

2) We'll tell you what's going on, and give a few possibilities of what's causing it

3) Call the mechanic, play extremely dumb & ask them exactly what they did.

4) B-slap the mechanic for !Removed! you around

Depending on what's going on, you should be able to drive the car around, but go easily. If a shift solenoid/wiring is bad, you'll be missing gears. That can strain it the engine & transmission from working too hard, or strain it from having to work fast for long periods of time. Ya you can drive it around, just don't drive it hard. Go eaaaaasy.

Anyways you're doing now what you need 2 do from now on. You don't *need* to know how a car works... Simply know how to go ask the people that do! From now on, any car problem you have, find a forum online for that vehicle & ask what's going on b4 you let someone do work. (If that is an option)

Posted

Hi, I dont know what happened ToyRme but somehow your reply was atteched to my reply. Thanks for your quick response. Thanks for the humor too. I did what you told me to do. The check engine light did flash. Initially it just kept flashing. I stopped and did it again and it flashed 3 paused and 2 and then 3 again. At the same time the O/D Off light starting to blink. As I removed the paper clip, both the check engine light and O/D Off lights dispapeared.

I noticed too that when I had the clips on TE1 and E1, the engine sounded differently, like it's accelerating.

Btw, my mechanic(just went to him upon a friend's recommendation) looks really mean and I get easily intimidated by such looks :cries:

Thanks again for your reply

Posted

Ya, the engine sounds different because the computer (when in diagnostic mode) goes back to pretty well fail safe parameters.

Code 32 is a bad air-flow meter for the engine. Specifically it uts out too much voltage for atleast a 1/2 second.

I wouldn't worry about that one.

Tomorrow morning (or tonight) Open the hood. On the driver's side there are two little black boxes beside the battery on the wall. Open the one closest to the battery.

If you look under the top, there is a fuse that says EFI.

Pull that EFI fuse out with the little white fuse puller, count to one-I'macutie, and put it back in.

Depending on how sensative you are to the car, you may feel it drive around a little bit different, but that's normal - no worries.

Tell us what happens after that.

Posted

Hi, I called up the mechanic and told him he messed up my car. Told him the O/D light and acceleration problem. He told me to send the car back to him but I told him I am not going to pay anymore for his experimental work. After 3 days, he said he thinks it's the computer. Told him I am not paying a dime to get it fixed. He ordered the computer anyway, fixed it and said problem unresolved.That was Sat, 01/28/06. Today, 01/30/06, he said problem fixed. I test drive the car together with him and sure the light went off and I could drive on D like before. However after dropping him off at his workshop, the light came up again. This mechanic specialises in Honda and Toyota and has been operation the workshop for more than 30 years and has never come across such a problem. Dont know to believe him or not. He said he changed the speed sensors but the light is still on. I asked him if some wiring problem, he kept quiet. Am I just the unlucky one who owns a Lexus with such a problem?

I left car at his workshop. Will let you know as soon as he gets it fixed, ie, if he can fix it. I called up another mechanic who works in Toyota workshop and he said it's either transmision or solenoid but my old mechanic has checked transmission and it;s okay. Am :angry:

Posted

Honey, I'm gonna tell you like it is... Toyota's TCCU (Toyota Computer Control Unit) I.E. the ECU I.E. computerthat controls both the engine & transmission on any Toyota/Lexus. Are *buillitproof*. It is |---| far from being ever *theoretically* impossible for one to fail!

Eh... They're hella expencive, but every now & again you can find one on ebay for $20-30. it *Must* come from a 1992, or 1993 ES 300, or Toyota Camry. (Same exact thing).

Still need to find out what the transmission code is next time it comes on:

(Are you sure it wasn't a 42 instead of a 32?)

Don't turn the engine off, just park & check the code. (If you didn't the first time)

42 - No. 1 Speed Sensor Malfunction

61 - No. 2 Speed Sensor Malfunction

62 - Open or Short Circuit in No. 1 Solenoid Valve

63 - Open or Short Circuit in No. 2 Solenoid Valve

64 - Open or Short Circuit in No. 3 Solenoid Valve

For all 5 of those transmission codes the factory service manual advises:

1) Replace the sensor/solenoid

2) Test the harness, and wiring

I think the guy needs to spend some time with a continuity tester to see if the wiring is bad.

You did great!

Posted

mlvooc... welcome to the club.

I can't realli respond too much about this topic as i am not as knowledgable about cars as Toys is. But make sure u read the trouble codes correctly. They will cycle over and over. U may actually have several codes going off at the same time as well. Just sit there n start counting. If you have time, you can also download

Gift from Toysrme... AHEM... Santarme

If u open the ENGINE.pdf file... n u scroll down to page 323 u will find the numerous engine codes there too. Plus the FSM (Factory Service Manual) is very useful. You see what toys is talking about when he mentions AFM (Air Flow Meter).

I must agree... our car's engine n transmission is practically Bulletproof. It's built like a tank. But that doesn't necessarily mean that a tank don't break down from time to time... but generally speaking... a lot more reliable than most other cars.

Back to the code topic... have a paper n a pen... just in case u get multiple codes... n just start writing all the numbers down until u think u have them repeating. Then we can try to help cypher the codes.

Other than the light coming on... do u feel any symptoms?

Good luck to u ;)

Tom

Posted

I must agree... our car's engine n transmission is practically Bulletproof. It's built like a tank. But that doesn't necessarily mean that a tank don't break down from time to time... but generally speaking... a lot more reliable than most other cars.

Tom

i must be a majic maker cause i broke my tranny a few years ago.......it was toasted... no gears work, nad now it seems every now and then when the car has been drove a while in o/d it dont wanna go in reverse.....but i guess i was to rough on it.......

Posted

wow... that suxs man. Sorrie to hear about that. The only reason y i say this b/c i went to a junkyard... n i was just inquiring the price for 92 LS engine that i saw... n the guy honestly told me...

"ur not going to even need to buy it... it's built like a tank..."

He told me that if i want it... he'll give it to me dirt cheap just so he can get rid of it. HAHAHA. As for me... i'm assuming wut i heard from the guy. My dad drives the car pretty hard.... so i'm hoping nothing will happen. But i guess the gears will burn out eventually pending how u drive.

Tom

Posted

wow... that suxs man. Sorrie to hear about that. The only reason y i say this b/c i went to a junkyard... n i was just inquiring the price for 92 LS engine that i saw... n the guy honestly told me...

"ur not going to even need to buy it... it's built like a tank..."

He told me that if i want it... he'll give it to me dirt cheap just so he can get rid of it. HAHAHA. As for me... i'm assuming wut i heard from the guy. My dad drives the car pretty hard.... so i'm hoping nothing will happen. But i guess the gears will burn out eventually pending how u drive.

Tom

just remember 20 degrees out, lots of curves up and down hills, for about an hour and half, plus 6 in water hole = death...

but given that this car can take a lot of abuse.

Posted

Hi guys, thanks for all your adv. I got my car back last night. Mechanic changed the computer. It didnt work the other day cos of bad connection(or so he says). I have my old computer with me now but how can I find out that is is actually faulty?MY mechanic said I can trash the old computer but I dont trust him.

Is it normal for the car to let out huge mass of white smoke early in the morning when I first start up the car? Initially I thought it was some oil leak but mechanic repaired all leaks a month ago.

Thanks again for your replies.

Posted

i dont know about the computer... someone might b able to shine in on the subject... as for white smoke... hmmmm... i'm taking a stab at it... if they cleaned something.... then it will smoke up for a while. The white smoke can be from anything though. Some coolant leaks into the engine... n it will smoke up. Cleaning the Engine with other chemicals... etc.

Give it a couple of days of driving... hopefully it will die down a bit. If it continues to smoke up... then have it checked up. But i'm assuming if he cleaned it... u'll seriously need to wait for it to clear up.

Good luck.. . n keep us posted

Tom

Posted

Thanks for your replies. Will wait a few more days and see what happens. As for the old computer. My colleague knows someone working at the Lexus dealer in Santa Monica. He is taking my old computer to this guy to check it out. Will let you know the findings.

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