Two Oxygen Sesors For $600

[Toysrme]

That doesn't mean it's the *best* way to test one.

The "correct" way for any heated sensor (Anything in the last 15 years) is to:

Test the resistance (ohms) & voltage of the heater circuit<s>

Test the sensor (voltage) output<s> itself.

Even that doesn't tell the story of your closed-loop sensor of choice!

You need to know the output signals under real world conditions.

The time to warm up from cold

What it warms up to

Responce time

The only way to really know is to break out a multi-meter.

[mburnickas]

Man, I can't figure out what in the hell you're trying to say?? I mean no harm, and I'm not picking at you either, but I'm totally lost on your posts?? It's quite possible that I've been hangin' with the Govenator too much, but you've lost me amigo???? 

For me or the other guy?

Well it is very easy to understand..

1) If me, using OEM means nothing nor does it mean it is better etc.

2) Showing me a slip from a 4-banger engine (from 1992) from inspections also means nothing.

3) the cheaper ones last short in time length but look at the price delta

4) Waited for data (real) that supports monarch post that OEM is better then other non-OEM

5) Then again people get lucky (aka ....find a nut at times)

6) My Toyota sludge years do not last that long in EGR etc (proven fact; do a search on this forum for this common issue)

7) Not all Toyota product are like his. So his is not how they all are; all car makers have issues.

8) Since I have been driving every car sensor (02) has not been touched for 100K. And these are with non Toyota sensors...WHOA!

This debate from Monarch is about as good as his you need to you all OEM fluids, Toyota engineers are the best in the galaxy and the world famous pictures of everything and anything (from used oil housings to bricks).

Can you understand this one better

[mburnickas]

That doesn't mean it's the *best* way to test one.

The "correct" way for any heated sensor (Anything in the last 15 years) is to:

Test the resistance (ohms) & voltage of the heater circuit<s>

Test the sensor (voltage) output<s> itself.

Even that doesn't tell the story of your closed-loop sensor of choice!

You need to know the output signals under real world conditions.

The time to warm up from cold

What it warms up to

Responce time

The only way to really know is to break out a multi-meter.

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THANK YOU!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D

Well, I only hope it is a Toyota approved product or the effectively and durability is not like theirs [Toyota]..

[nc211]

Ahh, ok I understand now. I was lost in the previous post and was frustrated. I was like "wait...what? oh, ok....no wait, what?" I got it now ;) Thanks!

PS, that is Arnold isn't it in your avatar?

Man, I can't figure out what in the hell you're trying to say?? I mean no harm, and I'm not picking at you either, but I'm totally lost on your posts?? It's quite possible that I've been hangin' with the Govenator too much, but you've lost me amigo???? 

For me or the other guy?

Well it is very easy to understand..

1) If me, using OEM means nothing nor does it mean it is better etc.

2) Showing me a slip from a 4-banger engine (from 1992) from inspections also means nothing.

3) the cheaper ones last short in time length but look at the price delta

4) Waited for data (real) that supports monarch post that OEM is better then other non-OEM

5) Then again people get lucky (aka ....find a nut at times)

6) My Toyota sludge years do not last that long in EGR etc (proven fact; do a search on this forum for this common issue)

7) Not all Toyota product are like his. So his is not how they all are; all car makers have issues.

8) Since I have been driving every car sensor (02) has not been touched for 100K. And these are with non Toyota sensors...WHOA!

This debate from Monarch is about as good as his you need to you all OEM fluids, Toyota engineers are the best in the galaxy and the world famous pictures of everything and anything (from used oil housings to bricks).

Can you understand this one better

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