Solenoid Filter

[Threadcutter]

n:

I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??

I doubt it's coming from the rack.

I believe the rubber is being shed by the pump rotor and housing inside the P/S Pump. The pump is known as a "vane" style because it has metal vanes that are held in place by a rotor. These parts are the main components of the pump. The rotor is round and has slots cut in the outer circumference of it. The metal vanes ride in these slots. The rotor is (center) shaft driven and it sits in an oblong/elipsoidal (not perfectly round) cavity inside the pump. As the shaft turns the rotor, the vanes move outward due to centrifugal force until they hit the wall of the cavity. This is where the fluid enters the pump from the reservoir. As the shaft continues to turn the rotor, the vanes are forced inward by the wall of the cavity due to the fact that the wall is getting closer to the rotor. Fluid is forced through the ever decreasing cavity size & high pressure pumping is achieved. I'm not cetain now, but I believe either the slots and/or the cavity is rubber lined.

It is the vanes moving in & out in the slots that wears rubber off from either the rotor and/or the cavity. Also, in Lex's tutorial, he mentions the poor condition of the O-rings & it may very well be that is where the majority of the rubber contaminants are coming from. He did a great job with the tutorial & the pictures in particular;

LexLS P/S Pump Rebuild

[rtd111]

n:

I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??

I doubt it's coming from the rack.

I believe the rubber is being shed by the pump rotor and housing inside the P/S Pump. The pump is known as a "vane" style because it has metal vanes that are held in place by a rotor. These parts are the main components of the pump. The rotor is round and has slots cut in the outer circumference of it. The metal vanes ride in these slots. The rotor is (center) shaft driven and it sits in an oblong/elipsoidal (not perfectly round) cavity inside the pump. As the shaft turns the rotor, the vanes move outward due to centrifugal force until they hit the wall of the cavity. This is where the fluid enters the pump from the reservoir. As the shaft continues to turn the rotor, the vanes are forced inward by the wall of the cavity due to the fact that the wall is getting closer to the rotor. Fluid is forced through the ever decreasing cavity size & high pressure pumping is achieved. I'm not cetain now, but I believe either the slots and/or the cavity is rubber lined.

It is the vanes moving in & out in the slots that wears rubber off from either the rotor and/or the cavity. Also, in Lex's tutorial, he mentions the poor condition of the O-rings & it may very well be that is where the majority of the rubber contaminants are coming from. He did a great job with the tutorial & the pictures in particular;

LexLS P/S Pump Rebuild

While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line.

And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer)

[lexlover1]

n:

I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??

I doubt it's coming from the rack.

I believe the rubber is being shed by the pump rotor and housing inside the P/S Pump. The pump is known as a "vane" style because it has metal vanes that are held in place by a rotor. These parts are the main components of the pump. The rotor is round and has slots cut in the outer circumference of it. The metal vanes ride in these slots. The rotor is (center) shaft driven and it sits in an oblong/elipsoidal (not perfectly round) cavity inside the pump. As the shaft turns the rotor, the vanes move outward due to centrifugal force until they hit the wall of the cavity. This is where the fluid enters the pump from the reservoir. As the shaft continues to turn the rotor, the vanes are forced inward by the wall of the cavity due to the fact that the wall is getting closer to the rotor. Fluid is forced through the ever decreasing cavity size & high pressure pumping is achieved. I'm not cetain now, but I believe either the slots and/or the cavity is rubber lined.

It is the vanes moving in & out in the slots that wears rubber off from either the rotor and/or the cavity. Also, in Lex's tutorial, he mentions the poor condition of the O-rings & it may very well be that is where the majority of the rubber contaminants are coming from. He did a great job with the tutorial & the pictures in particular;

LexLS P/S Pump Rebuild

While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line.

And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer)

n:

I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??

I doubt it's coming from the rack.

I believe the rubber is being shed by the pump rotor and housing inside the P/S Pump. The pump is known as a "vane" style because it has metal vanes that are held in place by a rotor. These parts are the main components of the pump. The rotor is round and has slots cut in the outer circumference of it. The metal vanes ride in these slots. The rotor is (center) shaft driven and it sits in an oblong/elipsoidal (not perfectly round) cavity inside the pump. As the shaft turns the rotor, the vanes move outward due to centrifugal force until they hit the wall of the cavity. This is where the fluid enters the pump from the reservoir. As the shaft continues to turn the rotor, the vanes are forced inward by the wall of the cavity due to the fact that the wall is getting closer to the rotor. Fluid is forced through the ever decreasing cavity size & high pressure pumping is achieved. I'm not cetain now, but I believe either the slots and/or the cavity is rubber lined.

It is the vanes moving in & out in the slots that wears rubber off from either the rotor and/or the cavity. Also, in Lex's tutorial, he mentions the poor condition of the O-rings & it may very well be that is where the majority of the rubber contaminants are coming from. He did a great job with the tutorial & the pictures in particular;

LexLS P/S Pump Rebuild

While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line.

And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer)

n:

Thank you very much rtd111 really appreciate the link. Hope the fluid will be real clean this weekend, smells quite burnt and it is brown.

I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??

I doubt it's coming from the rack.

I believe the rubber is being shed by the pump rotor and housing inside the P/S Pump. The pump is known as a "vane" style because it has metal vanes that are held in place by a rotor. These parts are the main components of the pump. The rotor is round and has slots cut in the outer circumference of it. The metal vanes ride in these slots. The rotor is (center) shaft driven and it sits in an oblong/elipsoidal (not perfectly round) cavity inside the pump. As the shaft turns the rotor, the vanes move outward due to centrifugal force until they hit the wall of the cavity. This is where the fluid enters the pump from the reservoir. As the shaft continues to turn the rotor, the vanes are forced inward by the wall of the cavity due to the fact that the wall is getting closer to the rotor. Fluid is forced through the ever decreasing cavity size & high pressure pumping is achieved. I'm not cetain now, but I believe either the slots and/or the cavity is rubber lined.

It is the vanes moving in & out in the slots that wears rubber off from either the rotor and/or the cavity. Also, in Lex's tutorial, he mentions the poor condition of the O-rings & it may very well be that is where the majority of the rubber contaminants are coming from. He did a great job with the tutorial & the pictures in particular;

LexLS P/S Pump Rebuild

While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line.

And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer)

n:

I was wondering...where is this rubber coming from? Would it be in the rack, and taken as an indication the rack is worn pretty badly internally??

I doubt it's coming from the rack.

I believe the rubber is being shed by the pump rotor and housing inside the P/S Pump. The pump is known as a "vane" style because it has metal vanes that are held in place by a rotor. These parts are the main components of the pump. The rotor is round and has slots cut in the outer circumference of it. The metal vanes ride in these slots. The rotor is (center) shaft driven and it sits in an oblong/elipsoidal (not perfectly round) cavity inside the pump. As the shaft turns the rotor, the vanes move outward due to centrifugal force until they hit the wall of the cavity. This is where the fluid enters the pump from the reservoir. As the shaft continues to turn the rotor, the vanes are forced inward by the wall of the cavity due to the fact that the wall is getting closer to the rotor. Fluid is forced through the ever decreasing cavity size & high pressure pumping is achieved. I'm not cetain now, but I believe either the slots and/or the cavity is rubber lined.

It is the vanes moving in & out in the slots that wears rubber off from either the rotor and/or the cavity. Also, in Lex's tutorial, he mentions the poor condition of the O-rings & it may very well be that is where the majority of the rubber contaminants are coming from. He did a great job with the tutorial & the pictures in particular;

LexLS P/S Pump Rebuild

While the pump itself may have deteriorating rubber parts, which is mainly the o-rings and bearing seals, the rotor, and pump cavity is all metal (having opened more than a couple of these pumps). Realize that there is fair bit of rubber tubing in the system and there's fluid swirling thru those tubes as pretty high pressure, as one would observe when flushing the PS Fluid. So there's plenty of oppty for inner linings to erode away. The solenoid screen is the first filter on the return line.

And for a total of 4 cents, in response to lexlover's request: in fact threadcutter is a proponent of removing the screen and flushing, which probably is fine. I generally clean the screen, reinstall it then flush because I am curious what's circulating in there. After a good flush, clean screen and reinstall again and flush only about 1 qt worth for final rinse. The link in TC's post for PSflush is great -- I wouldn't flush at the solenoid: you'd have better control at the reservoir and the return line there. For another DIY on this topic, see Soarer)

[leeelooo]

You definitely turned the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. It's easy to get confused when you are lying down. I always imagine if I sat upright and also turned the car upright 90 degrees so the undercarriage is in front of me. Now you are looking at that solenoid nut and turning it left (counter). If you placed the wrench at the 3pm position you would turn it towards midnight. What you did specifically was start at about 9pm and turn it towards 6pm - OK I'm confusing myself now! But hopefully you get the idea.

The inline filter I installed was an A1 Cardone Premium Magnetic Inline Filter. I believe the actual filter said Magneflow on it. It is $17.12 plus shipping at Rockauto.com. Sorry I didn't take pics during the install but it took no more than 10 minues to add before replacing my return hose to the pump. It comes with 2 new clamps - it was a tight fit but it worked. I intend to replace it yearly with every flush but it does have a bypass on it in case it gets clogged.

from the attached pic, the thread goes normal direction and also, to me there is no reason to make it reverse though...

[tsarang]

Hi all,

I cleaned up the solenoid as was recommended and added the filter to the return line, I am having a strange issue that i wanted to report.

a. steering is great when i cold start the car.

b. steering gets tough when driven for 2-3 minutes and stays that way till the car gets cooled down.

The system was flushed, I checked the PS fluid level its OK. but still this problem is there.

what could cause this to happen?. is it the filter?. the way the filter is installed now it quite close to the engine and gets heated up, i guess in turn heating up the PS fluid. will this be causing the issue?.

What is the best way to install the filter? I have it on the left hand side in the space between engine and the car body which is behind the black intake(car filter) thingy!!!.

any input/advise will be Greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!!!

[pishta]

You set a good size heavy long punch on the left side of the nut. Strike the punch with a hammer one good hard hit and the nut and solenoid, which are attached, should break loose and turn free counter clockwise.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I was thinking the punch had to be set on the right hand side of the nut like this http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mastertech/sole.jpg in order to make it turn counter clockwise. What does everyone think?

You got the grips on backwards anyway if you are going to push up on them. With vice grips, always push on the side with the adjuster. With all adjustable wrenches, you push on the stationary jaw side.

[VBdenny]

I'd try removing the inline filter and see what that does. Maybe the filter is impeding the flow or something and that doesn't cost a thing to check.

I was replacing the vacuum lines from my PS air control today so I had a look at my solonoid and man.... Unlike the ones shown in pictures that were well doused with oil, this was dry and just had that don't screw with me look, so I didn't. I really liked the procedure for flusing on soarer (mentioned above) as it couldn't cause and airlock .