leighagreg Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Hi all, First post. Tried searching for my particular situation but to no avail. Bought my first ever Lexus (2000 ES 300, 56K miles) CPO from Reinhardt Lexus in Montgomery, AL on May 29. Two days later, one of of the two main remote keys busts in my hand (the key was wobbly to start with) as I'm starting the car, and the car will not start (crank) at all. Everything else electrical still works. I have it towed to my nearest dealership (Jackson, MS--I live in Hattiesburg, 90 miles away) the next morning, where the service tech informs he can start it 10 times in a row. Fortunately, the Montgomery dealership will send me a replacement which the Jackson dealership will reprogram for me. I drive up, get the car and have no problems until. . . The following Sunday morning. Now that I'm down to one remote key and one Valet key, I'd been using the valet, and I let my wife have the remote key. I use the valet key and open the passenger door, putting stuff in the front seat, and unlocking all the doors from the button on the inside of the front passenger door. I then walk to the driver door enter, and the car will not start again. Same situation as a few days earlier. An hour later, using the remote key, and unlocking the door using the remote unlock, I enter the car, and get nothing at all on the first two attempts. On the third, I get the faintest hint of cranking. On the fourth and all subsequent attempts, no problems. Are these problems in starting likely related to the keys' security system? Are there other likely culprits? Should I always use the remote keys to enter/start the car? Any ideas are appreciated. When it rides, though, oh it's nice. . . . Thanks, Greg Underwood
mrsel3 Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Hi all,First post. Tried searching for my particular situation but to no avail. Bought my first ever Lexus (2000 ES 300, 56K miles) CPO from Reinhardt Lexus in Montgomery, AL on May 29. Two days later, one of of the two main remote keys busts in my hand (the key was wobbly to start with) as I'm starting the car, and the car will not start (crank) at all. Everything else electrical still works. I have it towed to my nearest dealership (Jackson, MS--I live in Hattiesburg, 90 miles away) the next morning, where the service tech informs he can start it 10 times in a row. Fortunately, the Montgomery dealership will send me a replacement which the Jackson dealership will reprogram for me. I drive up, get the car and have no problems until. . . The following Sunday morning. Now that I'm down to one remote key and one Valet key, I'd been using the valet, and I let my wife have the remote key. I use the valet key and open the passenger door, putting stuff in the front seat, and unlocking all the doors from the button on the inside of the front passenger door. I then walk to the driver door enter, and the car will not start again. Same situation as a few days earlier. An hour later, using the remote key, and unlocking the door using the remote unlock, I enter the car, and get nothing at all on the first two attempts. On the third, I get the faintest hint of cranking. On the fourth and all subsequent attempts, no problems. Are these problems in starting likely related to the keys' security system? Are there other likely culprits? Should I always use the remote keys to enter/start the car? Any ideas are appreciated. When it rides, though, oh it's nice. . . . Thanks, Greg Underwood ← Is the good key and the valet key w/ holder close to each other? the valet key holder hasa transponder chip in it and may interfere with the other transponder chip in the main key. if you put in the valet key and hold the holder next to the key, wait a few seconds and try to start it up, make sure the other key is not in the car.
leighagreg Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 Thanks for your reply. The service guy from the Jackson dealership mentioned about the keeping the keys away form each other from starting. To be honest, I do not remember if I had both keys with me on when I first had the problem this last Sunday. When I returned the 2nd time on Sunday to start my car, I only had the main remote key, which failed the first three times, then worked like a charm. Please pardon my ignorance, but I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the "holder"? Could you please clarify?
amf1932 Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 Thanks for your reply.The service guy from the Jackson dealership mentioned about the keeping the keys away form each other from starting. To be honest, I do not remember if I had both keys with me on when I first had the problem this last Sunday. When I returned the 2nd time on Sunday to start my car, I only had the main remote key, which failed the first three times, then worked like a charm. Please pardon my ignorance, but I'm not exactly sure what you mean by the "holder"? Could you please clarify? ←
SKperformance Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 I don't think it has to do with the alarm but the IACV
leighagreg Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 Thanks for the defintion of "holder." I didn't get that key when I bought the car, but reading others' stories, I thought myself fortunate when I got two remotes and a valet. I'll need to poke around and see if I can get one. Thanks again.
leighagreg Posted June 7, 2005 Author Posted June 7, 2005 Hi all, Some new information. My wife informed yester day that it failed to start one time, but she got it going a second time. So it's certianly not a key issue. However some of the other pists refer to cars that crank a bit--moine does not at all. No cranking, no clicking. And this happens form cold starts, not after the car's been running. SK, thanks for you previous post and help, and search tips. From searching around I know to do one or more of the following, in order of importance. 1. Clean IACV 2. Clean Throttle body 3. Motorvac I know the moptorvac shoud cost around 100$; how much could I should expect a local mechanic to pay--as opposed to a dealership 90 miles away? Thanks again.
amf1932 Posted June 7, 2005 Posted June 7, 2005 After reading your description, I suspect that the ignition switch could be causing your problem. The internal contacts could be intermittent. Was this ever checked out?
steviej Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 No cranking, no clicking. And this happens form cold starts, not after the car's been running. ← I suspect that the ignition switch could be causing your problem. The internal contacts could be intermittent. Was this ever checked out? ← I concour with Alan. If there is no cranking and no clicking (the important one here) then there ain't no action from the battery. In addition to the ignition, have the battery, battery cables and connections checked out too. steviej
amf1932 Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 One other test that I thought of: Turn on the dome light, then turn on the ignition switch and then turn the key further, as if you want to start the engine. If the dome light dims then you know current is flowing through the ignition switch. If the dome light doesn't dim then the circuit is not being completed and once again the problem points to the ignition switch.
SKperformance Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 got to agree if it doesn;t turn over at all it is not the immoblisier as it lets the car crank and shows a CEL but it never starts . If it is intermittent it may be the actual starter contacts or battery
leighagreg Posted June 8, 2005 Author Posted June 8, 2005 Thanks everyone, It's at the Mobile, AL dealership now--I'll let you know how it goes.
leighagreg Posted June 8, 2005 Author Posted June 8, 2005 I was told the dealership replaced starter. I presume it's the same as the ignition switch?
amf1932 Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 I was told the dealership replaced starter. I presume it's the same as the ignition switch? ← No......the ignition switch is a different part. I guess I was wrong. Anyway, I'm glad it was repaired. :)
SKperformance Posted June 9, 2005 Posted June 9, 2005 the starter has contacts inside it for high power transmission for starting the ignition switch is where you turn the key
leighagreg Posted June 9, 2005 Author Posted June 9, 2005 I got the car back today and it works fine. On a side note, while the Montgomery, AL dealership which sold me the car hemmed and hawed about having the car towed back to my house, my wife made a phone call to Lexus customer service, who, upon hearing the story of my 11 day old certified pre-owned car which would not start, readily agreed to have the car towed back to my house. Thanks for all of your help and patience in answering my questions.
amf1932 Posted June 9, 2005 Posted June 9, 2005 I got the car back today and it works fine. On a side note, while the Montgomery, AL dealership which sold me the car hemmed and hawed about having the car towed back to my house, my wife made a phone call to Lexus customer service, who, upon hearing the story of my 11 day old certified pre-owned car which would not start, readily agreed to have the car towed back to my house. Thanks for all of your help and patience in answering my questions. ← The main question is, did Lexus charge you anything for the repair?
leighagreg Posted June 15, 2005 Author Posted June 15, 2005 The repair was free--covered under CPO warranty
mark681 Posted April 10, 2006 Posted April 10, 2006 So what was the actual problem with the system? I didn't really catch that.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now