Two Questions To Ask

[ED.]

First: This weekend we put the brakes on the LS . After some struggles we got them and and while doing them we noticed that the wear indicaotr was disconnected. Now it stays on all the time even though the brakes are brand new. Whats the deal? We had the same problem when we first bought the car.The guy just had them replaced and it would come on and off and finally it stayed off.

Second: While doing the drivers side we noticed that there was some fluid coming out of the air suspension. We plan to look on ebay to get some new struts from the bay and we are gonna call the lot who we believe is responsible tomorrow. Could you guys give me some information on the situaion since I am new to airbags. How to they get it off with out using a spring compressor. We do plan to have Lexus do the repair since it is a big one.

You opinion please.

ED

[UCF3]

Ed:

1) The Brake light is probably on because one of your sensors is bad. Look for wear marks on one of the pad sensors. You could probably get them from the dealer for $150 or so. I'd suggest you get one and troubleshoot.

2) I'm not that familiar with the air suspension. I know the struts are expensive, and the airbags are part of it. Ebay's a good place to look, or you could call up a junk yard or two in your area.

[nc211]

Air suspension = BIG $$$$ to fix. Most people simply convert to normal suspension components when their air susp goes bad. I'm not kidding, the dealer rates for this type of repair are about a $1,000 PER WHEEL. That's why a lot of people avoid the air susp setup.

[ED.]

Really? Holy crap that is a lot! How long do you think untill it HAS to be replaced?

Thanks

ED

[wandawoods]

Really? Holy crap that is a lot! How long do you think untill it HAS to be replaced?

Thanks

ED

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on the 94 LS I used to have, the air sus went bad at 110k, that seems to be the norm. Dealer sells air sus for $660 each wheel plus labor to install. no kidding there!

not sure about buying an used one on eBay is a good idea because the replacement or any other wheel can also go out at any time. when regular shock going bad, it will just make your ride uncomfortable, but when an air sus going south, your car is almost undrivable!

check out this often recommended and most economic solution:

http://www.lextreme.com/ascon.html

[nc211]

I recommend you figure out what parts you need to convert it to normal suspension, then order them from a online vendor for A LOT less than retail at your local dealer. Then take the car to your favorite mechanic if you can avoid the dealer. The goal here is to avoid the dealer at all costs. This is a common problem, and they know it, and they charge out the tail pipe for it. Just like suspension control arms. They know they all go bad at some point, and they must be changed, and they charge big bucks for it. But, if you can get your parts online and take it to a local mechanic, you can literally save thousands of dollars. I've got all new control arms for front and rear, plus steering rack mounts for about 60% less than dealer rates. Taking it to my buddy up the road this weekend and he's putting them all on for about $150. That's about an hour's rate at the dealer. I go to www.parts.com, pick "lexus" and hit discount toyota parts. I've also ordered from Hoy Fox toyota as well, but find discount to have better prices.

These cars can be very expensive to fix if you're not in the "know". If you know, then they're comparable to any other american made car to repair. Replaced my PVC pipe last weekend for a grand total of $2.84. Dealer wanted $175.00

[jadecuir]

plus steering rack mounts for about 60% less than dealer rates.

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Hey, nc211, how did you determine steering rack mounts were bad? With 270k, i'm thinking mine might be ,also. Are you talking about some type of rubber bushings, or the metal , or both? What symptoms tipped you off?

John

[nc211]

I was talking to Army a while back about that darn clunk noise up front. He mentioned that the steering rack gromments go out too, being thin, soft rubber. So I figured I was $1,500 in the hole for all the control arms already, what's another $30? Hahahaha. I've basically taken a broad swipe at all the things suspension related that can, might and do go bad and replaced them. Army said when those gromments go bad, the rack actually bangs up and down sometimes when hitting dips in the road. That infamous clunking noise seems to have a few faces. strut rods, stabalizer bushigs, control arms and steering rack mounts. Got the stabalizer bushings and strut rods replaced already, didn't fix the clunk. So, I got tired of hunting and shot the whole dang thing at once, front and back. I figured I'm going to have this car until it quits on me, so what's a couple G's to bring her back to new status for another 10 years and 120,000 miles. Only paid $14,200 over a year ago for her, with 84k on the clock. Dealer serviced the whole time. The guy who traded it in was the original owner, grew old, kept getting lost, and wanted a navigation system. So, instead of buying an aftermarket set up for a few hundred bucks, he decided to get a new LS Ultra. Me jealous? You bet!!

One man's chicken, is another's steak.

[Econ]

A million thanks, nc211, for the parts.com reference. I was wondering why, 1) All these online parts guys looked like they used the same interface, and 2) Why there wasn't a central registry so I could compare prices with ease. Kickass.

In regards to the grommets, jadecuir, they really are flimsy little pieces of rubber, and fairly easy to replace. It takes some time and patience to work them in (on the 1st gen, at least), but no more than an hour total time. I noticed some problems when going over bumps while turning - the wheel would really wobble sometimes. Abnormally so, when compared to my other cars. I figure the rack was shifting slightly, which was changing both the angle on the shaft and the turning resistance against the tie rods.

[jadecuir]

I just replaced the upper control arm bushings and lower ball joints and the ride is pretty tight. Put new tires on , and now I'll see if it aligns. It still pulls occasionally one direction or the other, so it's the toe - in or the rack. Are the bushings a dealer item only?

John

[nc211]

jadecuir, if you go to one of the sites, collision catelog, steering gear, steering gear and linkage, Gear Assy, you'll see "insulator" as the part name. on discount parts site, I'm seeing $21.64 for the right side and $20.37 for the left side. I've attached a photo. They're #2 in the picture.

Econ: No sweat bubba. Million thanks to you and all the others on this site who have helped me out in the past! Ya'll are the ones who found the site, I'm just glad to pass along the info! This site has saved me big bucks and given me a wealth of knowledge. I've never gotten into a car as much as I have with this 95 LS. I enjoy this, and finding this site is a goldmine! I'll have an LS in the garage for life. I've thought about the Q45, even test drove a 2000 for comparision. I felt like a trader! Hahahaha. My brother has a 94 Jag XJ6 with 42k original miles and he is on their site now too, and loves it. I told him to not even attempt a Jag without meeting the community of owners all around the world first. Funny, neither one of us owns a car inside of 10 years old, but nicer than most cars 2 years old.

[Paul Sherman]

Ed:

I don't know where in St. Louis you are (I'm in South City),

but I have a neighborhood mechanic who does the work I

don't want to. He's honest, pretty good and has even tracked

down used parts for me.

[jadecuir]

jadecuir, if you go to one of the sites, collision catelog, steering gear, steering gear and linkage, Gear Assy, you'll see "insulator" as the part name. on discount parts site, I'm seeing $21.64 for the right side and $20.37 for the left side. I've attached a photo. They're #2 in the picture.

Thanks , nc. I'll check 'em out.

John