How Do You Remove The Pwr Steering Pump ?

[fatman]

I could use some help here folks my ps pump is out , trying to replace it need to know the steps to remove it

[sc_toy]

I just finished removing mine from the car, taking a break from the rebuild.

I had to remove a LOT of stuff.

- airbox

- MAF

- intake up to the T/B

- rad

I'm still attempting to rebuild it, if anyone reads this and has done it before please contact me cause I'm stuck trying to get something out of the housing.

I wouldn't recommend this job to someone that hasn't been working on cars for years. I consider myself a very experienced mechanic, and this is a hard job. Took the engine out of a camry in 3 hours with no air tools and no cutting last weekend, already spent about 6-7 hours on this pump and it's not even disassembled yet!!!

For what it's worth, I'm working on my moms LS400, not my SC400...

Aaron

[Lexls]

I'm interested in doing a tutorial on this for the LS at some time...hopefully mine doesn't start leaking any time soon though! There is a tutorial on rebuilding a PS pump for a Soarer, I think the pump itself is exactly the same: http://planetsoarer.com/Power%20steering%20pump.htm

Aaron since you have an SC can you tell me if the pumps are the same, thanks :) .

[sainikai]

I HOPE Aaron and fatman gets the job done sucessfuly especially Arron and the web link sent by LexLs would be helpful. :)

[99lsguy]

I could use some help here folks my ps pump is out , trying to replace it need to know the steps to remove it

I remember someone saying they could remove the pump from underneath without removing the radiator. A tight fit, had to hold it just right, but it wiggle thru........

[UCF3]

From underneath. Impossible.

[sc_toy]

Well I did a couple things wrong... I tried to remove the pump with the pulley still attached, and it hit the ABS bracket while trying to slide the pump off the stud (pump is mounted with 3 bolts and 1 stud).

Note: it only takes three bolts (10-12 mm IIRC) to remove the fluid reservoir, and then it's out of the way. Otherwise it hits the brake lines going to the ABS blocks.

Also the high pressure union/fitting wouldn't come off for me, even with my air gun, so the high pressure line was hitting the fan shroud when trying to pull the pump forward.

If you could remove the high pressure fitting, and if you're smarter than me and loosen the pulley nut while the belt is still tensioned on the pulley, you could probably get it out without removing the rad.

I still need to talk to someone who's rebuilt their pumps before. I'm not a noob when it comes to rebuilding things but I can't figure out how to get this one piece out of the pump. If worse comes to worse I could use a puller to yank the shaft and main bearing out, and rebuild it all from that side, but I'd really like to get the whole thing apart so I can have a look in there.

Cheers,

Aaron

[sc_toy]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, the pumps are the same, but the SC uses a remote reservoir. The main body is the same between the pumps though. Interesting thing is they use a different gasket kit.

The LS gasket kit comes with a small brass fitting that slides into one of the ports on the pump. I haven't had my SC pump apart yet so I don't know if it uses this fitting and the kit doesn't come with it, or maybe it doesn't use it at all...

Aaron

[fatman]

Thanks for all of the imput I bought the ps pump from autozone, and after looking at the old ps pump in my ls for 3 hours, I finally called a mechanic who said he would install the pump I bought for $80.00, sounds good to me, it took him 3 hours to remove and replace the old pump, This was a lot cheaper than dealing with the Lexus Service Mafia, That wanted to charge me 782.65 for the same part and job.

[sc_toy]

I hate mechanics and do 99% of my own work, but for $80 I would have taken this into someone. Hell I think there's close to $80 worht of fluids I'm going to have to put back in! LOL

Rad fluid, Toyota Type-IV ATF (from tranny cooler), PS fluid (DEX III)...

I'm only half done and it's a pain in the !Removed! job.

Aaron

[RFeldes]

I hate mechanics and do 99% of my own work, but for $80 I would have taken this into someone. Hell I think there's close to $80 worht of fluids I'm going to have to put back in! LOL

Rad fluid, Toyota Type-IV ATF (from tranny cooler), PS fluid (DEX III)...

I'm only half done and it's a pain in the !Removed! job.

Aaron

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[sc_toy]

^^^ not sure what you meant to say there.

Update: on saturday night when I couldn't get the pieces apart, I put the pump standing up so that the bearing was at the top, and the main shaft was pointing up. I filled the area on top of the bearing with penetrating fluid, hoping it would seep down in and loosen things up.

It worked!

Today when I got home from work I went over the pump and when I picked it up the pieces basically fell out! I used my hammer to tap out the main shaft, and used the open area of my vise to separate the main shaft from the bearing. (after removing the clip of course).

I cleaned the pump casting with brake and parts cleaner and now I'm about to go and reassemble everything with the new gaskets/seals/clips. Probably going to use a touch of white grease on everything when I reassemble it. I know it's not ATF but I'm only going to use a touch and it should keep things from wearing when it first starts up without being full of fluid.

I'll keep updating as the process continues... I'm starting to feel better about the whole thing.

Also, I was an idiot and didn't undo the vac lines going to the intake pipe before the T/B, and one of the fittings broke off. I got an idea though, gonna get some use out of my new tap and die set. Will get a fitting with the proper size barb on one side to fit the vac line, and male threads on the other side, then I'll tap the intake where the plastic fitting broke off and install the brass fitting with a little teflon tape or thread lock (probably use red loctite). Should do the trick. That reminds me I should go to home depot.....

Aaron