230k- Should I Add Anything To The Oil?- Also:

[90LS400Lexus]

My 90 LS400 has 230K, but the engine still runs fine. Between oil changes- it does not leak, nor burn any oil- which I think in impressive for a 230K mile car. My question is- should I be adding anything such as "Slick 50", or "Restore" now in my engine now to help keep it in good order, or is just the 3K mile oil changes ample protection for my engine? Does anyone else here add anything to their engine oil, such as "Slick 50"? Any recommendations for high mile engines?

My next question is this: What would cause my car to have either "too much" or not enough" acceleration when going down grades while barely pressing the accelerator? I think I have read complaints about this before, but not sure- not able to find anything on "search". Unless the engine in my car is fully warm (temperature guage needle just below the 1/2 mark), when going down grades, upon light acceleration- it either over accelerates, or it is not enough acceleration- if that makes sense. Also- when slowing down, when it "gears down", the engine speed will increase for a moment and increased braking is required. Is this the "TPS" sensor problem I have been hearing about? It does not always do it, but it is frustrating.

Thanks for any information.

[UCF3]

Are you using any of the High-mileage Oils or are you using Mobil 1 5w30? If you're not using the High-mileage stuff, I would recommend using Slick 50 or having the block rebuilt if needed.

It is possible the TP Sensor is defective, but in most cases I've come across the Check Engine light appears. Are there any Error codes on display? It's also possible the EGR might be on it's way out.

[90LS400Lexus]

Are you using any of the High-mileage Oils or are you using Mobil 1 5w30? If you're not using the High-mileage stuff, I would recommend using Slick 50 or having the block rebuilt if needed.

It is possible the TP Sensor is defective, but in most cases I've come across the Check Engine light appears. Are there any Error codes on display? It's also possible the EGR might be on it's way out.

Thanks UCF3- no, the only oil I have used is what the dealer installs when I take it for the oil changes. I guess they use the recommended oils. No need to have the block rebuilt, since the engine is still in perfect running order.

About that sensor- there are no "error codes". The check engine light goes off when started- so perhaps it is not the "TPS" sensor? If it is the EGR- is that a costly repair?

Thanks again.

[blake918]

If it is the EGR- is that a costly repair? 

Thanks again.

Shouldn't the EGR should give you a check engine light also? My ES had a nasty EGR gremlin that nearly drove me insane, and all the while the check engine light was on. The ES is OBDII though. Newlexusparts.com has the EGR valve for $160--not too bad, but who knows how long installation takes @ $100/hour?? I'm just like you...231.7k miles, and she still runs like a clock. I use Mobile 1 super syn with no problems(leaks or other oil consumption) at all, and I don't plan on changing brands or adding anything to the oil. Why mess with success?? :D

[99lsguy]

90LS,

I would NOT put any slick 50 or similar additive in your engine!!!! Keep your oil changes @ 3-4K miles and you'll get another 100K no problem (engine wise).

I suspect a cleaning of the throttle body will help eliminate these "pulses" you have mentioned.........

[monarch]

There's no need to use additives or thicker oils or "high mileage oils" because a properly driven and serviced Toyota engine has practically no detectable internal

wear after 200,000 miles. One of my Toyota engines has 448,000 miles http://www.saber.net/~monarch/448.jpg yet I still can't find any substantial wear in the valvetrain parts and the compression on each cylinder is still like new.

Just continue using the same 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils you have always used and Toyota oil and air filters and your engine could still be running fine when you reach 500,000-600,000 miles.

I agree with 99LSguy that you should clean the throttle body plate http://www.saber.net/~monarch/tpcleaners.JPG and it will likely cure any drivability hestitations and flat spots when the engine is cold. I would also change the oxygen sensors if they have never been changed in order to improve power, gas mileage and extend the life of the expensive emission control components like the EGR valve and catalytic converter.

Below is a post that appeared on another Toyota forum from an owner with almost

600,000 miles and he talks about his maintenance practices:

Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 08:57:14 -0400

From: "Jim Savino" <jjs75@cornell.edu>

Reply-To: Toyotas_Only@yahoogroups.com

My old 1990 4Runner has almost 600,000 miles on it, it’s getting a little weak

but still pulls. The A/C died long ago and I’ve got a lot of rust, but as

Jason said, the driveline is still solid and the 4WD just won’t die.

Aside from a lot of body-related stuff, cables, etc, the only serious things

I’ve had to do is replace a water pump and alternator, replace the timing

chain (at 450K miles) and put in 2 new clutches ‘cause they wore out. Last

time I checked the cylinders were within a few pounds compression of each other.

Oil was mostly Quaker State 10-40, but occasionally Valvoline 10-40, 5 qts

every 3000 miles, occasionally going as far as 5000. I used 10-30 in the

wintertime here in NY.

The Toyota factory oil filter was installed every change.

The Toyota factory air filter was also installed about once every 30000.

Best,

Jim

[chips229]

The egr pipe is nearly £100 to buy here in the uk...its a right pig of a job to do...there was a split in my egr pipe but no engine fault lights on.

If you open the bonnet(hood)and listen around the back of the engine.....standing at the front of the car looking at the engine the pipe is to my left(drivers side on my uk car)

If you blip the throttle it will sound like the exhaust is blowing,the sounds more noticeable when the engines cold..

I hope your egr pipe not blowing :( ....really really is a pain in the !Removed! of a job to do,i done mine myself....took me a good 8 hours :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot:

and another 4 hours to finish :chairshot: the next day.

If its replaced make sure the bolt is put in the bracket of the pipe half way along it,it holds the pipe stopping it from vibrating,if the bracket bolts not put in the pipe wont last two minutes :chairshot: