Putting On Angel Eyes and "Clearing Corners"

[kyle0k]

alright this sunday(pretty sure this sunday) im putting on angel eyes. im making them with the instructions from that one site. ok but b4 i do i want to ask a few question.how can i make it so that when i turn on my regular rights only the outer blue LED's turn on and then when i turn on my far lights then the inner ones turn on. like the instructions doesnt describe really how to do all the power connections and stuff. can someone give a detailed instructions how.

and also let me get this right . i have to take out the whole light cssing. put my oven to 300 and then for ten minutes put the whole casiong in there?? and then pry open the casing.

then to clear out the corners i just reheat it for another 10 minutes at 300 and scrape of the red?

after that how should i attach the circular things to the projecters? super glue?!?! lol

also anyone know how big the projecters are liek diameter wise?

alright thanx.

[kyle0k]

yea on http://students.washington.edu/ashis/Creat...ngel%20Eyes.htm

he just connects the LED to a battery i want to make it so they only tunrn on when my lights turn on.

damn this is looking very complicating. when i first read it it looked easy but now that im reading more into it,its looking hard. and risky

[branshew]

Kyle it sounds like you may be getting in a bit over your head here. You still have a lot of important questions to answer before you go jumping in up to your neck. Slow down so you can get it right the first time.

First thing I’d do would be to get a 2nd set of used projectors to use as your guinea pig. You don’t need to go and ruin your original lamps if this does not work out right. This will also give you ample time to experiment and find the best solution to install the AEs so you are not rushed to get it all done in a day. If this works out OK, then you can sell your original lamps on eBay and get your money back (or mod the other set as well and sell them for a little more.)

Keep in mind too that you are going to need to mod the housing on the lamps to allow for the extra set of wires to enter it. You are going to want to make the housing water tight after the fact as well so seal up the new holes tightly. I would make a double set of AEs to go around the high and low beams while you’re doing it. You may as well do it right the first time. I don’t know enough about it, but 300 degrees sounds too hot to me. You may want to check into the temperature thing. I also don’t know about “scraping of the red”. I think that will just mess them up on the inside.

As to the electrical part, I would wire the AEs to the battery and use a separate switch installed somewhere on the dash or steering column cover. Switches can be had online or at Radio Shack. That way you can control the AEs separate of the headlamps. It looks cooler when just the AEs are on in the daytime/dusk when you don’t need headlights. Also make sure you get the correct resistors for the LEDs. If you get the wrong ones, the light won’t be as bright (too much resistance), or the LEDs will burn out much sooner than they should (not enough resistance) and you’ll have to take the headlights apart again to replace them.

[bdonkersgoed]

Hey Everyone!

I actually just undertook this operation a month ago! Ask any questions if you wish . . . however, I didn't get into making the swtich and stuff like you want to . . . I just simply hooked into the parking lights so that they are on all of the time.

One word before you begin . . . I may have done something wrong, but the angel eyes are not very bright. The only way that you will see them is if your car is parked and just the parking lights are on and it is quite dark outside. They do look sweet though when parked waiting for someone though :) As soon as the headlights go on, then light goes all through the plastic rings and they do not show up. Just thought you should know that before you started. Maybe mine aren't bright because I used a 1/4Watt resistor instead of a 1/2Watt resistor . . . I really don't know much about the electronics aspect. My lights are not as bright as the lights on that guy's Civic on the other website. Also, I belive that the mirror finish inside the light assembly also kills the brightness of the rings. The assemblies fills up with light due to the reflective coating, and thus the Angel Eyes are not visible. If you were really serious, you would probably have to blacken the mirror finish if you wanted to see the Angel Eyes while the lights are on . . .

Anyways, the main purpose for me doing this operation is because I wanted to clean my yellowed lights from the inside. Mine were pretty dirty, but now they are very clean B) I also wanted to clear the corners . . . something that changes the car's look more than what I intially thought! Now that I have done this operation once, it would be pretty easy and quick to do it again. Be warned that it took me about 1 full Saturday for EACH light assembly though, as there was some trial and error involved.

Anyways, for heating, I found the optimal temperature was 275F for 12 minutes. BE SURE TO PREHEAT THE OVEN!! Right when I was about to put my first headlight back together, I forgot to preheat the oven. I had the assembly in the oven and realized 5 mins later that it wasn't on. I turned it on, and started the timer, thinking the oven was still hot enough. I was wrong! The bottom element came on and the direct heat fried my plastic lens :( I did not have any backup lenses :( I didn't fry any of the visible part of the clear lens, but it bent the bottom all out of shape (bent in about an inch) so that it was nearly impossible to get a perfect seal. I ended up using a torch and melting the plastic at the seam to try and bend it back as best I could and then siliconed the crap out of it. You can't see the error by looking at the car, which is a really good thing. However, last weekend I washed the car for the first time, and that headlight got condensation all inside! @#(*$^&@*#!! Now I don't know what I am going to do . . . I'm just going to have to wait for a plastic lens to come in to a scrap dealer. I have seen them go for about $50US, so my mistake wasn't too costly. I just sucks because the mistake could have been so easily avoided. As long as the oven is preheated you will be fine. I have been lucky in that, over the last week, the condensation has completely cleared up. I will just have to be careful the next time I wash my car not to pressure wash directly on the light.

Anyways, here are the major steps that I took . . . it should help you out:

1.) Prepare the platic rods to be made into rings by notching them. You can't form the ring iteself until the assembly is apart (so that you can get the sizing). Preparing the rods was a big pain in the a$$ until I figured out the best method. To make the notches, I looked at buying a Dremel tool but they were friggen expensive! I had an engraver at home, and it worked perfect! I highly suggest it! Also, just notch one side of the 6-sided hexagonal rod. I notched two sides which may be why my rings aren't very bright. I made two rings for each side, just cause it looks cool B) So I prepared enough rods to make four rings. Also, before pulling the lights apart, hook up all the necessary wiring to your LEDs so that they are prepared to be put into the rings once they are formed later on. Pair them up like in the instructions online. Hook up the resistor. Add ample wiring to the LEDs (I just used working wire from Radio Shack). Just have them as best prepared as you can. Be advised that the shorter prong of the two coming out of the LED is the negative. I think the resistor goes on the long (positive) prong, but I cannot remember with certainty. Trial and error will tell. Also, be sure to have one or two extra LEDs . . . I had one extra and was very glad I did because I wrecked one during my trial and error!

2.) Now that your LED rods are prepared, take the headlight apart. PREHEAT the oven at 275F. When preheated, put the entire light assembly (minus bulbs, clips, and screws of course) in for 12 minutes. Different instructions ill tell you less heat for less time with many heatings, but that is unnecessary. Just one good heating works, and it is safe as long as the oven is PREHEATED. Can I stress that enough? :P The lens will easily pull right off of the assembly when heated, with the glue in a hot cheese (like on pizza) consistancy. Be sure to not work on your mom's kitchen table like I did . . . this stuff is messy :P At least, if working on the kitchen table, be sure to have lots of newspaper covering it! As you pull the lens from the housing, use a knife to cut the glue strings. It helps to have a friend helping out. Try very hard not to get any glue on your plastic lens! I accidently got a bit on mine, but luckily my plastic polish was able to get it off.

3.) Now, I believe the mirror part of the housing just clips out. It's not hard. And to clear the corners? Super easy! It was like these lights were designed to be cleared! It is just an orange plastic INSERT that you can just take out of the housing (no clips or anything!). No scraping! Just pull it out, and you have cleared your corners! B) The clear corners look awesome by the way B)

4.) Now your light is completely apart. I suggest you give the inside of the plastic lens a really good cleaning if yours are yellowed like mine. I used Meguire's PlastX plastic polish and it worked wickedly. No more yellow! My car looks SO much better now! The ES300 lights are really sweet looking (my favourite cosmetic part about the car), and being yellow detracts from their cosmetic appeal. Cleaning them up makes a HUGE difference!

5.) By now, your headlights should be all apart, your lens is cleaned, and your LED rods are prepared. Now, to form the rings out of the LED rods. Grab something round that is the size to you want your ring to be. I made a different size of ring for the high and low beams, because it is not perfectly round in there. You will see what I mean. I think for one of my rings I used a can of Chef Boyardee Mini Ravioli, and for the other I used a jam jar :P Now, form one rod into a ring at a time. Preheat the oven to 275F again, and put the rod on a cookie sheet. Be sure to make the rods longer than needed . . . you will cut off the excess later. When the oven is preheated, put the cookie sheet in the oven for about 5-7 minutes I think (can't remember for sure). As a rule of thumb, as soon as the rod starts to curl a bit (because it is melting), it is ready. When the rods curls, pull it out of the oven quickly, place your round object on the cookie sheet, and using two pairs of pliers, grab the ends of the rod (which is very soft) and form the rod around the round object. This is pretty easy. Don't worry if you screw up . . . you can always reheat the rod and try again. It took me a few tries sometimes to get it perfect. The rod hardens very quickly (within 20-30 seconds) so you have to work pretty quick. When you are satisfied, be sure to check your ring by putting it against the mirror part of the assembly to be sure that it will fit. Repeat this procedure for all four rings.

6.) Now, use a hacksaw to cut off the excess of the rings. I wasn't able to get the LEDs to completely insert into the rods, so I left about a one inch hole at the top. I then used a small drill bit to make some little holes in each end that the LEDs could sit in. They don't completely insert, but the holes help keep the LEDs in place. Now, you use black electrical tape to tape the LEDs into the rings. Try and keep the tape tight. I didn't do a good enough job and some of my tape has come a little bit loose now :( Be sure that your rings work PERFECTLY by using a 9V battery. Test it again. And again! You don't want to have your lights together and find out later that your rings don't work! Once the lights are together, there's no going back, because if you were to heat up your assembly again, then your wiring and rings would all melt!

7.) Fasten your rings to the mirror part of the housing using silicone. I suggest using a couple dabs of crazy glue on each ring to help hold it in place when you silicone. It is a BIG help! With just the silicone, it is very slippery and difficult to work with, and silicone takes forever to dry. Have your taped portion of the rings at the top, so that the wiring can exit from the space between the mirror part and the "globe" projector lens. You will know what I mean when you pull the lights apart. I fasteened the ring to the mirror by putting lots of silicone inbetween the mirror and the electrical tape. The silicone will refract the LEDs light beam, so it is best to use as little as possible. Most of my glue was on the electrical tape (because it can't be seen), but I also put some glue on the bottom of the ring to be sure that it will never come loose.

8.) Do all of your wiring work now. Have it all neatly taped up and properly spliced (I put four wires into two so that only a positive and negative wire come out of the assembly).

9.) Drill a hole in your assembly where you want the wiring to come out. Make the hole just big enough for the wires to come out. No need to make a big hole.

10.) Reheat the assembly again (just the assembly, not the mirror or lens or anything), and even out all of the black gooey glue. Don't heat up the plastic lens. It was when I had the plastic lens directly on the oven rack that I fried it. Most of the black urethane glue will be in the housing anyways, so there is no need to heat up the clear plastic lens. If there is any spots with a lot of glue on the clear plastic lens, then just pull that glue off.

11.) When you are satisfied with the glue, then be sure to have a friend to help you out now. It is time to put the assembly back together, and once it is together, there is no turning back. Heat the assembly ONLY (not the lens or mirror part!). If you try heating the mirror part with your rings on it, then the rings will melt! Take the housing out of the oven. Feed your wires through the hole you prepared. Clip the mirror part back into the housing. Now push your plastic lens back into the housing. Try and get it all the way back in with a perfect seal. You don't want condensation later! Push push push! It shouldn't be too difficult. Put some clamps on the assembly just to be sure that the clear plastic lens doesn't push out of place again while the glue is hardening. Wait about an hour or so, take the clamps off, and then give it a liberal amount of silicone to help seal off the assembly (just to be safe). Be sure to silicone the hole where your wires come out of the assembly as well. There should be no holes that allow any amount of air into your assembly, or your will get condensation.

12.) Reinstall your headlight and hook up your wiring however you please. I just hooked into the parking lights right before the harness. To tell which wire is positive, negative, and ground, I just stuck one of my extra LEDs (with a resistor) into the holes until it worked. I believe the the top left hole is the Negative, the top right hole is the Positive, and the bottom is the Ground. I can't remember for sure though, so you had better check first.

13.) Put your car back together, polish the outside part of the clear plastic lens using Meguire's PlatX (or similar) and ENJOY!

Anyways, I hope this is of help to anyone looking to clear their yellow lenses, clear their corners, or create angel eyes.

Best of luck, and let me know of the results!

Bryan

[bdonkersgoed]

Now, I think these instructions are more detailed than any other I have seen on the net (with regards to the ES300). I just don't have pictures, but you can get the pictures off of the websites. If I forgot anything, let me know. I believe these are pretty complete instructions though.

If you have any questions, just email me at bdonkersgoed@hotmail.com or leave a message on this board.

I will try and take some pics of the rings when it gets dark tonight.

Remember, BE PATIENT! Don't screw up like I did . . . it is easily avoided. Just take your time, and everything will be cool!

For everyone's information, I believe this is the website that he is referring to:

Creating Custom Angel Eyes on a Civic

The following website gives some more specific info on the ES300 than the one you are currently looking at. It does not explain the creation of angel eyes, but the pics are very useful. The purpose of this website is showing how to clear the corners. Here you can see the pic of the orange insert and how easy it is to clear the corners:

Pulling Apart the Headlight Assembly on a ES300

Anyways, if anyone performs this operation, let me know how it goes!

Bryan

[kyle0k]

ok first to brandshaw:yea,i know it is more difficult then it seemed,that is why i went herre.i dont want to waste money on aother projector. ill just try and be careful:). well the resister im gonna use is the one it says on the website so... yea.

bdonkergoed: OMG,THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH. that was even more then i was hoping to get in a reply.THAT JUST HELPED ME SOO MUCH. ive got a few questions though. ill pair them up with the steps u gave

1.i have a dremel tool,well my dad does. so ill just use that for notches. my question is did u just notch the whole stick. b\c i noticed on the site the guy always left a littl undremmeled on top. which i thought was ugly and always uneven though. just making sure that notching the whole thing works out fine.

2.well you dont have a two^_^

3. alright my main ocncern here is what do i actually puy in the oven. wont the plastic casing melt?!?! like yu said the glue will melt but ,im retty sure at greater then 200 tdegree temparatures,plastic melts liek crazy,and the whole casing is plastic.

4. ok all claer about that.

5.clear

6. what do u mean its not perfectly round in there.i took a look and it looks liek the two projectors are infact different sizes,so i understand that . but are u saying the projecters are a lil oval? if so howd that work out...having circular rods and oval prjectors.

7. alright ill just use the dremel saw again but everything else makes sense.

8. hmm i think my dad prabably has silicone glue but if not can i just get that at liek home depot?

9.ok

10.ok

11. a lil confused here on what to reheat. the black (back) part of the casing? but take all the projectors out?

12.ok

13. ok about the wiring i want to make it work with a switch .but ifg i wanted to do what u did. where do i hoook it up to? where inside the engine bay is a place to hook wires up!?!?

14.yay!

alright ive got a few questions that wherent mentioned in the steps.

alright first i want to ask isonce i hook up everything how can i make it so that like the inner ones turn on with one switch and the outer ones with another. i understand that i have to buy a switch from radio shack(i tihnk from there) then take the wiring from the eyes and hook it up to the corresponding switches and then take wiring from the other end of the switch and hook it up to (what should i hook it up to ,so that i can turn them on anytime i want to with the switch). how doio get the switches insidew the cabben though??? and where do u guys think woudl be a good place to put it. right now im thinking everwhere else would be either too hard or ugly,so ill just but them by the pedals,where noone can see them.

alright i tihnk everything else i got down. srry for so many questions you guys, i just want to make sure to start off with as much knowledge as possible,to avoid the trial and error,and get straight to making it.

[bdonkersgoed]

Kyle it sounds like you may be getting in a bit over your head here. You still have a lot of important questions to answer before you go jumping in up to your neck. Slow down so you can get it right the first time.

No, it's really not that difficult of a procedure. Now that I have done it once, I would probably do it again in half the time (one full Saturday for both assemblies). Also, it should be easier for Kyle now that he has my more detailed instructions . . . I had to figure a lot of this stuff out on my own, and that took a lot of trial and error (which takes time!)

Bryan

[bdonkersgoed]

First thing I’d do would be to get a 2nd set of used projectors to use as your guinea pig. You don’t need to go and ruin your original lamps if this does not work out right. This will also give you ample time to experiment and find the best solution to install the AEs so you are not rushed to get it all done in a day. If this works out OK, then you can sell your original lamps on eBay and get your money back (or mod the other set as well and sell them for a little more.)

I wouldn't bother with the second set . . . it's just a waste of money. As long as you follow the instructions, you should be fine. I agree that you should give yourself more than one day to get this done. I would budget two full Saturdays to be safe . . .

Bryan

[kyle0k]

well i got saterday and sunday off this week so if i dont finish saterday then sunday i will do the other light.

im thinking about it nowand im thinking about making each eye hooked up to a switch:). that way if i want i can turn them on individually,or however.

so how much did this all come to . all this stuff is adding up im about to go out rihgt now to buy most the parts,and i need 10 LED's(want to have 2 extra just in case) ,4 rods(maybe 3 when i see how big they are), and some wiring i definatly have at my house,my dad does. oh and the switches are pretty expensive prabably,ill buy 4,for tthat seperate idea,but if i end up using only two then i will just return the other two unopened.

[bdonkersgoed]

Keep in mind too that you are going to need to mod the housing on the lamps to allow for the extra set of wires to enter it. You are going to want to make the housing water tight after the fact as well so seal up the new holes tightly. I would make a double set of AEs to go around the high and low beams while you’re doing it. You may as well do it right the first time. I don’t know enough about it, but 300 degrees sounds too hot to me. You may want to check into the temperature thing. I also don’t know about “scraping of the red”. I think that will just mess them up on the inside.

No modification of the housing is needed. Just one simple hole that you will later fill in with silicone. I also did the double set of AEs around the high and low beams . . . it looks sweet!

300 degree is a little hot. 275F at 12 minutes is plenty enough.

No scraping is necessary to clear the corners! :) See the instructions . . .

Bryan

[bdonkersgoed]

Also make sure you get the correct resistors for the LEDs. If you get the wrong ones, the light won’t be as bright (too much resistance), or the LEDs will burn out much sooner than they should (not enough resistance) and you’ll have to take the headlights apart again to replace them.

I agree here . . . I used 1/4 watt 220OHM resistors instead of the 1/2 watt (because that was all I could find) and that could be why my lights are not as bright. It's too late for me now though, cause my lights are already together :(

Bryan

[bdonkersgoed]

1.i have a dremel tool,well my dad does. so ill just use that for notches. my question is did u just notch the whole stick. b\c i noticed on the site the guy always left a littl undremmeled on top. which i thought was ugly and always uneven though. just making sure that notching the whole thing works out fine.

Yes, I notched the entire rod as well. I am not a big fan of the "Eagle Eye" look either . . . I liked to have as complete of a circle as I could . . .

2.well you dont have a two^_^

I have fixed this now, thanks :) Can you edit your post for the benefit of future users as well? (i.e. change your numbers too). Thanks.

2. alright my main ocncern here is what do i actually puy in the oven. wont the plastic casing melt?!?! like yu said the glue will melt but ,im retty sure at greater then 200 tdegree temparatures,plastic melts liek crazy,and the whole casing is plastic.

No, don't worry about the plastic. It is pretty tough plastic, and it would take a long time to melt that. I worried about the same thing when I did mine. the entire assembly goes in (minus the bulbs, clips, screws and stuff). The only reason why I fried my plastic lens is because I had it directly on the rack, and I was stupid and didn't have the oven preheated. The DIRECT heat on the bottom of the lens while the oven was warming up is what fried it. Don't worry . . . just follow the instructions and you will be fine :)

5. what do u mean its not perfectly round in there.i took a look and it looks liek the two projectors are infact different sizes,so i understand that . but are u saying the projecters are a lil oval? if so howd that work out...having circular rods and oval prjectors.

Oh, sorry, they are perfectly round, but when you pull the mirror part out, you will see that it is a bit of a tight space to work in. the frame "round" part is actually flat at the top and the bottom, although it is hard to see. A round ring fits in fine though . . . it is just a little bit of a tight squeeze. Don't worry, you'll see what I mean when you pull the lights apart. It is a little difficult to explain without pictures . . .

7. hmm i think my dad prabably has silicone glue but if not can i just get that at liek home depot?

Yup! Home depot is where I got mine :) It is cheap stuff . . . maybe $3.00 or something. I couldn't find any High Heat silicon so I just used regular. It should be fine. I highly suggest using the crazy glue though. I didn't use it on my first assembly and it was a pain in the a$$! The second assembly, with the crazy glue, was infinitely easier cause crazy glue hardens in seconds.

10. a lil confused here on what to reheat. the black (back) part of the casing? but take all the projectors out?

Just heat up the black part with the globes and stuff in. Don't take the projectors out. What I am trying to say is, do not put the mirror part and the rings and stuff into the housing when reheating (cause the rings will melt). Just put in the black part of the housing (with the globes) and NOT the clear plastic lens or mirror part.

12. ok about the wiring i want to make it work with a switch .but ifg i wanted to do what u did. where do i hoook it up to? where inside the engine bay is a place to hook wires up!?!?

Well, as I mentioned, I did not use a switch. I just have it so that the eyes go on with the parking lights (which are always on when the car is running). When you remove the headlights assembly from your car, you will see on the bottom where your signal light is plugged in (it is a harness with three wires . . . Negative, Positive, and Ground). I just bared the Positive and Negative wires right before this harness and hooked my angel eyes up here, and then taped it all up with electrical wire. I'm afraid that I can't help you out with the switch thing . . .

13.yay!

There is a great feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment when you finish 8)

alright first i want to ask isonce i hook up everything how can i make it so that like the inner ones turn on with one switch and the outer ones with another. i understand that i have to buy a switch from radio shack(i tihnk from there) then take the wiring from the eyes and hook it up to the corresponding switches and then take wiring from the other end of the switch and hook it up to (what should i hook it up to ,so that i can turn them on anytime i want to with the switch). how doio get the switches insidew the cabben though??? and where do u guys think woudl be a good place to put it. right now im thinking everwhere else would be either too hard or ugly,so ill just but them by the pedals,where noone can see them.

I'm sorry, but I can't help you out here. Personally, I would just screw the switches . . . too much work for what it is worth. Just have the angel eyes on all the time. If you want to do the switches, then someone else will have to help out. I just put male and female connectors by the harness (where I bared the wires) so that I can still pull out the assembly in the future withut cutting the wires, and also so that I can disconnect the angels eyes if I ever want to. These connectors can also be found at Home Depot.

alright i tihnk everything else i got down. srry for so many questions you guys, i just want to make sure to start off with as much knowledge as possible,to avoid the trial and error,and get straight to making it.

No problem :) You are lucky that I already did all of the trial and error for you :P I don't think anyone else has attempted this on the ES before me on this board, but I could be wrong. It should be easy for you since you know exacly what to do . . .

Best of luck, and if you have any more questions, ask away!

Bryan

[bdonkersgoed]

well i got saterday and sunday off this week so if i dont finish saterday then sunday i will do the other light.

im thinking about it nowand im thinking about making each eye hooked up to a switch:). that way if i want i can turn them on individually,or however.

so how much did this all come to . all this stuff is adding up im about to go out rihgt now to buy most the parts,and i need 10 LED's(want to have 2 extra just in case) ,4 rods(maybe 3 when i see how big they are), and some wiring i definatly have at my house,my dad does. oh and the switches are pretty expensive prabably,ill buy 4,for tthat seperate idea,but if i end up using only two then i will just return the other two unopened.

Two days should be plenty of time to complete the job, depending on your skill level. It helps to have a friend too, to help holds things as you work and stuff. Be sure to have oven mits that you don't care about getting dirty!

I can't remember how much this all cost. The most expensive part is the LEDs. Be sure that they are SUPER BRIGHT LEDs. I think I bought mine at a surplus store for about $2.50CAN each. I bought two 4 ft rods from Home Depot for $5-$8CAN each . . . two is PLENTY! I screwed up a rod in my trial in error, but still have enough left over for another one or two angel eyes. I spent about another $5.00CAN on working wire at Radio Shack (has black, red, and green coloured wire). Meguire's PlastX is about $8.00CAN a bottle, but you should have some of this stuff anyways . . . it is wicked! You can use it to buff your taillights too, and even your instrucment cluster and woodtrim! PlastX is a must have :)

All in all, with LEDs, rods, glue, wiring, and other supplies, I think it was under $50.00CAN. Not too bad. With all of the friggen' expensive future mods you have listed, I don't think that cost should be any worry for you. Besides, the satisfaction when you are done is well worth the little bit of money B)

Regarding the switches, I would really just screw that idea. It is a lot cheaper and easier to just have them run all the time anyways . . . why would you want to turn them off? You would probably never use the switches anyways unless you go to ricer competitions and want to flick them on and off to show off :P

One more thing . . . when you clear the corners, your parking lights end up being brights than before (because there is less plastic for the light to shine through). Because they are so bight, it kind of distracts from the Angel Eyes which kind of sucks. I'm going to see if there is a bulb that I can get that is a little bit dimmer . . .

Good luck!

Bryan

[bdonkersgoed]

My car is REALLY dirty (haven't washed over a week!) but I just took some pics anyways. This is during the day, so I didn't turn the angel eyes on. You wouldn't be able to tell that they are on anyways. I'll try and take a couple of pics tonight when it gets dark.

Regards,

Bryan

This is a picture of the Driver's Side Light. This is the one that I screwed up on and fried the lens, but luckily it fried only on the bottom so you can't tell!

PIC: Driver's Side Headlight

[bdonkersgoed]

Here you can see the silicone and the Male/Female connectors that I used. This is the lens that I friedd, but you can't tell because it bent on the bottom only (luckily!)

PIC: Driver's Light from Inside the Engine Bay

[bdonkersgoed]

PIC: Passenger's Side Headlight

[bdonkersgoed]

PIC: Passenger's Light from Inside the Engine Bay

[bdonkersgoed]

PIC: A pic from the front of the car (I know it is dirty!)

You should have seen how ugly yellow those lights were before!

[bdonkersgoed]

PIC: Orange Inserts

Here is a pic of the inserts inside the light housing. Simply pull these out, and you have clear corners! B)

[bdonkersgoed]

PIC: Some of the supplies that I used

[bdonkersgoed]

I hope these pics and instructions help you guys out! I will try my best to get some night shots with the angel eyes on tonight once it gets dark out.

Regards,

Bryan

[kyle0k]

i am so *BLEEP*ed off right now,went to radio shack. they have 7 blue LED lights that i need,i need ONE more and they said the other radioshacks are out. and that is only store that has them. i checked alot of stores but they are infact only store that has them im so *BLEEP*ed off. i bought 7

i need 8. i bought the 5mm 3,7 volt 20mA 2600mcd lights. there was one more exactly liek this but its 5 volt and 300 mcd so i figure its different. anyon ehave any suggestions. if i order it online it will take up to two week sto come:(

[bdonkersgoed]

i am so *BLEEP*ed off right now,went to radio shack. they have 7 blue LED lights that i need,i need ONE more and they said the other radioshacks are out. and that is only store that has them. i checked alot of stores but they are infact only store that has them im so *BLEEP*ed off. i bought 7

i need 8. i bought the 5mm 3,7 volt 20mA 2600mcd lights. there was one more exactly liek this but its 5 volt and 300 mcd so i figure its different. anyon ehave any suggestions. if i order it online it will take up to two week sto come:(

Hey Kyle,

Are you sure that the other radio shacks don't have any? I was at a radio shack in the mall a couple of weeks ago and they had about five sitting on the shelf . . .

Did the radio shack people actually call around, or did they just tell you that no other radio shack has them? I wouldn't take their word for it . . .

Good luck,

Bryan

[kyle0k]

ok i checked and a radioshack about 25 minutes away does infact have more in stock so ill go there tomarw b\c i got work from 5 to 10 today. ok im relieved.

[kyle0k]

oh and i bought "simulated HID"i was going to get silver stars but it was 85 bucks all together so i just got apc super whites,they where only 60 all together.