jvcm Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Hi I own a 2002 IS300 with 152320 mi. running well. Yesterday, comming to my house the cars start with some erratic idle rev, lowes as 400 RPM. Near to my home cel comes with codes p1120 and p1126. (P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction). Just reset the computer and problem done. My question is there is something that I have to watch to prevent this problem again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvcm Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Hi I own a 2002 IS300 with 152320 mi. running well. Yesterday, comming to my house the cars start with some erratic idle rev, lowes as 400 RPM. Near to my home cel comes with codes p1120 and p1126. (P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction). Just reset the computer and problem done. My question is there is something that I have to watch to prevent this problem again? Bump!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyShaft Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Um, we have determined that if you put "Hot Chick with Gearhead Fetish has Car Problem", in the title, you get a better response :D Sorry jvcm, I really can't help you with this. Never seen that set of codes thrown before :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth1 Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Hi I own a 2002 IS300 with 152320 mi. running well. Yesterday, comming to my house the cars start with some erratic idle rev, lowes as 400 RPM. Near to my home cel comes with codes p1120 and p1126. (P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction). Just reset the computer and problem done. My question is there is something that I have to watch to prevent this problem again? Bump!!! Let me explain something. The ECU isn't a warning device. It's a data collecting and event logging system. The cel light that came up on your dash is really telling you that the ECU has logged an event outside it's programmed parameters, X times in XX amount of time. So, by just resetting the ECU, it may just be a matter of time before the ECU logs in enouph of those events in a specific period of time to throw the cel again. So, I would just drive it as normal now. If the light comes back on, then I would take it in to a tech and have them look at it to make sure everything is ok. If you take it in now, they won't have any data to read about what is going on, as you just reset the ECU and erased it. If it doesn't come back, then it must not have been a problem in the first place right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvcm Posted January 25, 2009 Author Share Posted January 25, 2009 Hi I own a 2002 IS300 with 152320 mi. running well. Yesterday, comming to my house the cars start with some erratic idle rev, lowes as 400 RPM. Near to my home cel comes with codes p1120 and p1126. (P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction). Just reset the computer and problem done. My question is there is something that I have to watch to prevent this problem again? Bump!!! Let me explain something. The ECU isn't a warning device. It's a data collecting and event logging system. The cel light that came up on your dash is really telling you that the ECU has logged an event outside it's programmed parameters, X times in XX amount of time. So, by just resetting the ECU, it may just be a matter of time before the ECU logs in enouph of those events in a specific period of time to throw the cel again. So, I would just drive it as normal now. If the light comes back on, then I would take it in to a tech and have them look at it to make sure everything is ok. If you take it in now, they won't have any data to read about what is going on, as you just reset the ECU and erased it. If it doesn't come back, then it must not have been a problem in the first place right? Thank you for your answer, I appreciate. My car doesn’t give me cel again so far. But there some erratic rev condition since code came. For example, running in heavy traffic idle rev down to 300 rpm and stated there few minutes then rev established normal again. It occurred with and without AC. Verified all throttle body connectors, cleaned the air filter. Welcome for any suggestion to help with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth1 Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Hi I own a 2002 IS300 with 152320 mi. running well. Yesterday, comming to my house the cars start with some erratic idle rev, lowes as 400 RPM. Near to my home cel comes with codes p1120 and p1126. (P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction and P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction). Just reset the computer and problem done. My question is there is something that I have to watch to prevent this problem again? Bump!!! Let me explain something. The ECU isn't a warning device. It's a data collecting and event logging system. The cel light that came up on your dash is really telling you that the ECU has logged an event outside it's programmed parameters, X times in XX amount of time. So, by just resetting the ECU, it may just be a matter of time before the ECU logs in enouph of those events in a specific period of time to throw the cel again. So, I would just drive it as normal now. If the light comes back on, then I would take it in to a tech and have them look at it to make sure everything is ok. If you take it in now, they won't have any data to read about what is going on, as you just reset the ECU and erased it. If it doesn't come back, then it must not have been a problem in the first place right? Thank you for your answer, I appreciate. My car doesn't give me cel again so far. But there some erratic rev condition since code came. For example, running in heavy traffic idle rev down to 300 rpm and stated there few minutes then rev established normal again. It occurred with and without AC. Verified all throttle body connectors, cleaned the air filter. Welcome for any suggestion to help with this. That would be a throttle position sensor. You may very well be having a sensor go out on you. If the sensor completely goes out, then whenever you come to a stop, the car will just die. Repeatedly. I would suggest having it fixed before that starts to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyShaft Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Hey Smooth, is part number 89452 in the diagram below the sensor he should be replacing? TP sensor diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smooth1 Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Yup. But I would still take it in first to have them test the sensor and make sure it's the cause first. They can also take a look at that other code and make sure one isn't causing the other or vise versa. That's just my advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvcm Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 Thank Smooth and BillyShaft for your suggestions. I appreciated so much. I said in Puerto Rico " Mil gracias". I will going check it. I will keep on touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter2000 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Code P1120 is code for malfunction of APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor). This pedal position sensor (APPS) have a dual output inverse of eachother, a redundancy for safety reasons.Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400) Be aware, there are two sensors on throttle body. First one (closer to front of vehicle) is for throttle servo motor (don’ttouch it!). Second one (closer to firewall) with accelerator pedal cable attached to itis one what causing the problem.I replace several of those APPS sensors. Because I'm specializing in automotive electronics troubleshooting, I tookall of them a part. By doing so, I discovered on all of them commonproblem, what fortunately is an easy fix.Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solderresidue during manufacturing of sensor.This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing thissolder to harsh environment, acid in that solder causing self-destruction ofsolder what result of it is so called "coldconnection".Manufacturer ignored (perhaps intentionally) basic rule about cleaningcontacts after soldering andprotect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind ofprotective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame onToyota). SOLUTION: Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount andmount of sensor.To do so, just make small opening in to white plastic cover at location whereis connector (see my picture). By creating opening, you will create access to soldering points. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Apply new solder to existing points and take it all out (use desolderingtool or cupper mash to do so). By doing this you will remove old solder and expose contact from connector. Now you MUST clean those contacts by using very sharp knife and scrape old oxidelayer from those contacts. To verify if you did good cleaning, you will see after scraping nice shinybrace contacts. Second verification is, that when you apply new solder on thosecontacts, it will perfectly cover it with solder. If you will see soldercreating small ball and not covering entire contact, you need repeat processagain till you get perfect join solder to contacts. Next step is just nicely resolder all 4 contact to PC board with non-organicsolder (best is solder with Resin flux), but if you don't have solder withResin flux, you can use solder with organic flux (same as Toyota used) but youwill have to use warm water to clean soldering points to remove any organicresidue to prevent from same mistake as Toyota did in first place. After drying up inside soldered area (use hair dryer) to prevent frommoisture entering in to this part, you must cover opening (in white plastic)with good tape or any kind of non-conductive sealant (best is clear non-conductivesilicone). If you use silicone to cover opening, be very careful do not overfill insideopening, otherwise you will create restriction for potentiometer to freelymove. After silicone dry up, you can install your APPS and enjoy it. If you did good job, you will not have problem with this part for entirelife of that car. If you have any question, you can e-mail me at: sekcov@yahoo.com Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillMat Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 I've been having the same problem on my IS300 2001 for a month now. I took it in and the code was P1120. Now I need some clarification Pete. The picture that you showed is not the same for the part numer that Bill Shaft posted. Which one is it?The one on this picture is located where the throller cable is. Is this correct? To take this apart it seem that will take about half hour (being in the back). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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