reyoasian

you still taking your car to be serviced at the stealership? i stopped doing that after i got my first one free, haha. Well--enjoy whatever car you end up with. he can have fun with the german/american counterparts ;) ---------------- excited for the NX as well, Lexus finally going forced induction for efficiency, although I personally always prefer a good ol' N/A over any boosted engine.... on clublexus there's a few people who hit 250K miles already I just hit 80K KM recently, and once I hit 100K KM (60K miles), I will do a big maintenance and get my throttle and intake manifold cleaned up

For IS250 MY 2006 to early 2010, the warranty has been extended to 9 years for the carbon buildup problem...why are you paying.

When I said nothing was done, I meant nothing was done to fix the problem. There were small changes to some piston rings for later-2010 (not the early 2010's built in 2009) and so on models, however that's not a fix, and it only delays the problem, not eliminating it (motor remains unchanged). There are less reported carbon buildup issues for later-2010 and so on models, however it's still early considering the low mileage they have compared to 2006-2009 models. As well, it's sometimes a hit or miss thing (like BMW with the N54 HPFP issue, which claimed to be fixed with N55 but was not), and even the 3rd gen IS250 are being affected. As well for later years (forgot when it began), Toyota began using different specification engine oil, which does affect it to some degree as oil volatility is a factor in sludge contribution. DI engines are more gas efficient, and cheaper to produce. I'm not saying the problem is consistent amongst all DI engines on the market, but this is a typical problem for DI engines in general.The Mazda SkyActiv is much, much newer vs. IS250's 4GR-FSE, I'm sure there are other manufacturers have been able to "fix" the problem with new technology. The 2GR-FSE on the IS350 is also a DI engine however not affected as Toyota designed it with twin port DI (since the beginning of the 2IS), which was not done on the 4GR-FSE, hence no fix for the IS250. Even on the 3rd gen IS250, the two-stage injection system is not used. It's definitely cheaper for Lexus to disassemble/change engine components to the small percentage of whiney customers (by TSIB) than making changes to its complete engine design and production process (which is due to be changed soon anyways). For the meantime things you can do to prevent: * high octane gas * full synthetic oil * synthetic oil stabilizer * intake manifold cleaning * seafoam * WOT * TSIB to get piston rings and engine top blocks replaced WOT/seafoam only helps to a small degree as deposits are on the outside surfaces of the valve, where gas never touches in a DI engine. VW release statistics that you have to put heavy load on the engine for a long time in order for the engine to be hot enough to burn off the sludge. So I will say it again, nothing was done to fix the issue.

those wheels are only 1000 new tires are irrelevant in this case because they suck

If you have factory xenon headligyts, it's most likely the ballasts. Denso ballast are known to fail. The Phillips bulbs, on the other hand, will last forever.

That is just a replica and does not even come close in looking as good as the OEM LED headlights. As well, the quality is extremely poor, you can google it up a few guys on CL has gotten it and it's nothing but regret.

Nothing was done, it is the same engine and everything remains unchanged (including the carbon buildup). There is nothing Lexus can do to fix it, it's the design of the engine. The 4GR-FSE isn't the only engine affect by this issue, it's a widely known problem for a lot of DI cars. Nothing you can really do except, use high octane gas, use full synthetic engine oil (not the mobil 1 crap), get intake manifold cleaned every 50K miles, etc. and pray that you didn't get a lemon.

estimates: oil change every 8000km (or 8-10,000km with synthetic) brake fluid flush every 50,000km tranny flush and spark plugs every 100,000km something like that 1 mi = 1.6 km

Assume you have AWD since you said 17 (RWD usually come with 18 stock) OEM 17 should be 17x8 +45, with 225/45R17 square all around The 2IS body is really designed for a stagger setup, so the rear fender is much more aggressive than the front I am currently running 18x8.75 +35 with 225/40R18, front is pretty flush but rear is still tucked in (because of statement above) Future plans to go 18x9 +25 to +30 ish, with either 225/40R18 or possibly try to fit 235/40R18 Key is to stay within 3% of total diameter from stock tire size Also, rule of thumb when upsizing wheel diameter is to have tires down by 5% of width Example, in my case Stock = 225/45R17 1 UP = 225/40R18 2 UP = 225/35R19 3 UP = 225/30R20 ***with exceptions for specific cases where you need to go narrower (215, etc.) in order to fit and prevent rubbing A better upgrade from 225/45R17 would be 255/35/R18 (or 255/30R19)...which is closer to stock diameter than 225/40R18 (or 225/35R19)...........however it's hard to fit 255/35R18 or 255/30R19 in the front depending on suspension height and wheel offset Anyways, for an AWD, 18x8.5 19x8.5 18x9 19x9 square setups are the norm Many go for stagger setups on the AWD 2IS as well keeping front and rear rolling diameter within 1%, however this is done at your own discretion (best combinations are 235/35R19 front with 275/30R19 rear, or 225/35R19 front with 265/30R19 rear) EDIT: in regards to bigger/heavier wheels slowing you down Yes heavier wheels not only slow you down due to added weight, but also puts more stress on suspension components due to added unsprung weight. That's why most people when changing wheels go for lighter wheels. This can be offset by added tire weight, but depending on combination most end up with a net loss in weight (which is a good thing). Lowering = lower center of gravity = less body roll and better handling Wider (both width and offset wise) = more stability and better handling But of course there are downsides such as alignment issues which can be corrected

No problem with running square on RWD with staggered stock setup For folks in Canada, they should be running square setup for snow tires in winter to balance traction front-and-rear You have slight (negligible) differences in mileage and odometer reading but no biggie

Do you have aftermarket HID kit?

a 250 accelerating like a beast? well that's a first...

sold

you can easily run 19x9 +40 all around, 235/35R19 FSport springs doesn't do much, so no rubbing

hahaha that's why i use k&n and now takeda i think the placebo effect from the sound is greater than the actual 5whp hahaha