lemon

Oil filters go into bypass many times, whether overloaded with contaminants or not. For example, cold starts with thick oil or high revving/high demand situations that cause the oil pressure to exceed the pressure set by the bypass valve will cause the filter to bypass. Bypass doesn't just happen when the filter is overloaded with contaminants. Also, there would be no way to tell (from a UOA) if the excessive wear was due to the filter being bypassed or some other parameter. Now, you could cut open your filter after x number of miles and see how well the media stood up to the mileage, and thus gauge how long you could leave the filter in service.

Fram Xtended Guard (the only Fram I would recommend - well built, metal endcaps, wire reinforced media). Also Amsoil (and I'm sure some others) makes high mileage filters. I don't think a UOA will reveal how well the filter is working - I think most particles found in a UOA are too small to be filtered out. A UOA is a better indicator of how well the oil is preventing wear and how much life is left in the oil (and can also show other important things like fuel dilution and antifreeze contamination). Toyota has approved 10k OCI for some of there vehicle if using the Toyota branded 0w20. Take note of the date of the publication - likely other vehicles have since been changed to 10k OCI. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62695&st=0&p=402168&fromsearch=1entry402168 I've also done a VOA and UOA of the Toyota 0w20 and the results were good. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1811820&nt=2&page=1

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It has nothing to do with the thckness of the gas - it has to do with resistance to detonation (octane rating). In fact as RX400h posted, you can get away with a lower octane when it's cold out, but when it's hot, THAT's when you should be running higher octane.

Yeah...still it gets better mileage than a lot of other SUVs in it's size class. The sign is not very specific - I mean, could I park a VW diesel Jetta or Golf there? What about a Subaru Outback PZEV (Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle)? Personally, I would do away with the 'low emissions' part and just stick to hybrid/electric.

This is the first time I've seen this. I was at a local store (Mountain Equipment Co-op) that is geared to an outdoor lifestyle and the environmentally conscious. Anyway, I pulled into the parking lot and there beside the handicap parking spots were two spots reserved for "hybrid, electric and other low emission vehicles" (or something along those lines). Just a little perk for driving a hybrid (my car insurance company also offers a discount for hybrids).

Hmmm..interesting. I wouldn't think that would be needed with the Lexus VDIM system (or any modern car with a stability control system).

http://www.trackstick.com ... these units can be used to track where the vehicle HAS been. Your stolen vehicle scenario won't work, as you need the Trackstick to download the data. For real time tracking you need something like http://bluewatersecurityprofessionals.com/Realtime_Mini_Tracker.htm

You're not coming off negative - just stating a blatant truth about the NAV system. Your cobalt/peanut butter/moist bread made me spray Coke Zero through my nose. Sad thing is, if I actually did that (used cobalt commands, peanut better and bread) the system probably WOULD recognize the commands. I know it doesn't recognize English (I've even tried English with British accents, Western accents and Japanese accents)

Or get a Trico Exact Fit replacement blade. http://www.tricoproducts.com/replacement/windshieldwiperproducts/wiperblades/ShowContent.aspx?ID=24 As you can see these wipers. As you can see from the picture part way down the page, they make rear wipers that are exact fit replacements (I have one on my 2006 400h, so I know they make one for Lexus). To remove the old wiper, you need to pull off the plastic cover at the base of the wiper (where the whole arm connects to the motor. Once this plastic cap is off, you can lift the wiper arm fully off the windshield so you can remove the wiper arm entirely and put the new arm in. You have to kind of pry the plastic cap on both side and pull apart as you lift out. It took me quite a bit of force to do.

If you mean the owner's manual (not the shop manual), you can see them online at www.lexus.com under the owner's resources link. Also, look here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58929 at the very bottom of the first post, under 'dealer selectable options' for a list of personalized settings.

Are you sure it's not a wheel bearing your hearing? I guess you've already checked by applying the parking brake while you're rolling and seeing if the noise stops as the brake is engaged? The only other thing I can think of - is the backing plate rubbing againt the rotor as the rotor turns. Sometimes that metal backing plate gets bent in slightly and the rotor can rub against it.

Here's a better picture of the location of the nut at the pedal..

Depress the parking brake pedal. Hold the wire adjusting No.1 nut using a wrench and loosen the lock nut. Release the parking brake pedal. Turn the wire adjusting No.1 nut until the parking brake pedal travel meets the standard (see below for standard). Hold the wire adjusting No.1 nut using a wrench or equivalent tool and tighten the lock nut. Torque: 6.0 N*m{ 61 kgf*cm , 53 in.*lbf } Count the number of clicks after depressing and releasing the parking brake pedal 3 or 4 times. Check whether the parking brake drags. When operating the parking brake pedal, check that the parking brake indicator light comes on. _____________________________________________ The standard by the way is... Fully depress the parking brake pedal and release it to engage the parking brake. Depress the pedal to the floor again, and release it to disengage the parking brake. Slowly depress the parking brake pedal to the floor, and count the number of clicks. Standard: 5 to 7 notches at 300 N (31 kgf, 68.3 lbf)

Did you try the adjuster at the parking brake pedal inside the vehicle? If you've adjusted the 'star' adjusters inside the drum and there is still dragging, you can also adjust the cable at the pedal itself. I can scan and post the instructions (I think) if you need them.

Just over actually - 100 000 miles is 160 000 kilometres. Mind you, I have needed a new inverter and a new transaxle in that time...lol. Still I like the vehicle.

Just had new rotors, pads and parking brake shoes put on...finally, after 1650000km (I'm the second owner, but I'm pretty sure the pads and rotors or original. That's an indication of how much vehicle braking is handled by the electric motors. Anyway, it was weird that the rear pads were pretty much toast, but there is lots of pad left on the fronts. Normally, this is something I'd do myself (pads and rotors are fairly easy), but I knew the parking brake was not working right and despite me cleaning and lubing everything I still couldn't get one side to hold. I will admit, it was nice to have dirt and grease all over me or bleeding knuckles. Everything was rusty (damn, I hate living in an area where salt is used on the roads in the winter). I'm only guessing here (being the second owner) but based on the thin parking brake shoes and the grooves inside the rotor hat, I think someone in the past must have driven for some distance with the parking brake engaged. Don't know how one could miss the warning light and chime in the dash....but whatever.

A torrent site - you might find a copy of 10.1 there and you can then burn your own disc, but it's likely some sort of copyright infringement. Same as buying one disc between...say four people, so it works out to $50 a person, then burning three copies. That's why I said 'if it's your cup of tea', which it probably isn't.

Torrents, if that's your cup of tea.

I'll admit, having the NAV built in is far better than sticking one to the windshield. I don't think Lexus made the NAV system in house - wonder which company did it?

If your 400h NAV system recognizes your voice commands you are in the minority. The $100 Garmin...let me revise that to a $200 Garmin with voice recognition (suggested retail price at Garmin.com - likely cheaper elsewere) but for the extra money you get lifetime traffic. https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=134&pID=69452 Or you could really splurge and spend $400 for this https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=134&pID=87930 which has LIFETIME MAP UPDATES and lifetime traffic. So for the cost of two Lexus map updates (honestly, it's ridiculous what Lexus charges for a simple map update disc), you get a unit that has voice recognition, bluetooth, and speaks street names.

The only better thing that I can see (and I currenly have 10.1) is the maps are updated, so any new streets/neighbourhoods/POIs etc. will now be up to date. The drawback is if you have a version older than 6.1 (I think) and use the buiilt in override function (do a search if you don't know what I'm talking about), you will lose the override in any newer version. The update does not fix any of the problems inherent in the crappy NAV system (like the absolutely ludicrous voice commands (the system has hardly every recognized any of my voice commands and I do speak normal English), that a $100 GARMIN unit can do much better. And yes, it's almost as easy as loading a music cd.. Here are some pics.. Under the cover (you can use the silver arm on the right to hold the cover up The lid to the actual NAV drive (just push down the two clips, tilt out slightly and lift the cover up (toward the ceiling) The unit, push the button in and slide in the direction of the arrow, this will open the disc door AND eject the disk. Insert the new disc (it will suck it in automatically) and now slide the button in the other direction to close the disc door - make sure you close this properly or the drive won't run until you do.

Well, the quote came in at $534...vs....$14 for a tube of touch up from Lexus. That price would include repainting and clearcoating the lower hatch right up to the 'bend', which is about halfway up or so. The bend is a good place to blend the paint and clearcoat with the older paint, as it's less noticeable because of the bend. They would have to remove the 'Lexus' and the '400h' and install new ones, so if I go that route, I'll make sure they install the 400h level this time. I'm kinda leaning toward the $14 solution.

Yes, I can touch them up, but all that will do is protect the bare metal, I'll still see two vertical scratches of cover up paint. Might go to the place that repaired the back when some numpty rear eneded the vehicle in July 2010 and see if it's an easy repair. They did a really good paint repair job (except for the 400h decal being too low, remember) Here's a pic..

OK..so I was changing the oil today. Decided to leave the garage door closed as it was hot and humid out. Normally, I can open the hatch with the garage door closed without hitting anything...but...I decided I needed a bit more room at the front of the vehicle so I backed the car up so it was closer to the garage door than normal. NOT a problem, as I wouldn't be opening the hatch. So, keys in the front pocket of my shorts, I crouch down to plug in my work lamp and...BEEP BEEP...what the hell is beeping? Then I hear the tailgate opening and realize the button on the remote has been pressed as I bent down, likely by one of the other keys. I run to the back of the car, but too late - the hatch has hit the garage door right were the metal hinge between the panels is, leaving two vertical scratches (right to the bare metal I might add) between the bottom of the hatch and the bottom of the licence plate. Doh!! As an aside, I used Pennzoil Ultra 5w20 with a Fram Xtended Guard. I drained out Valvoline SynPower 5w30 with an Xtended Guard. No problems with the 5w20, but I wasn't expecting any, as I run 0w20 in the winter. The only reason I had 5w30 in the engine anyway, was because I had an extra jug laying around that I wanted to use up. I keep planning to run 0w20 year round, but the Pennzoil Ultra was on sale.