IanRShearer

Also, this post has a diagram http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/456163-code-14-a.html If the code 14 comes up the minute the ignition is turned on, then the IGF1 signal must be missing, thats a positive voltage from the ignition relay, through the low voltage coil on the ignition coil, and through the igniter. Should be checkable with a multimeter, and might just be a bad connector. The difficult bit is identifying the correct wire on the connectors. I would check for 12v on both sides of the coil first, then compare voltages at the igniters, as your no2 igniter is working ok. You basically have 2 identical systems to compare, swap things with

I had a similar problem, sudden cutout, rough running, almost no power. I found abraded wires rubbed by the timing belt and thought that was going to be the fix, but the problem was still there. Turned out the left hand/ drivers side HT coil was failing, It was a little out of spec. on the resistance test, but looked fine.I didn't really think that was the problem, but changed it. The coil lives fairly close to the exhaust, and runs in a hot environment, so tends to fail more than the other coil. I found a replacement right hand coil and changed the mounting brackets over. My car would start, though, and run rough, so symptoms not quite the same.

There a bit anonymous, no markings at all. I will only be keeping the car a year or two, so don't want to make a big investment in it. Working better than the probably 17 year old ones that were in there. I thought the outputs for differnt makes would all be to one standard- apparently not?

Try thre "incomplete combustion" section diag.pdf

Uh, sorry guys, I meant to post this on the UK site, but maybe you can get them on Ebay in the US too...

If anyone is wondering if the £15 o2 sensors on Ebay are any good, I have just fitted 2 today, the car is ticking over slower, 700rpm, and pickup is better Stopping at the lights is no longer a fight between the engine and the brakes Well worth the effort to install ! :D I had error codes 21 and 28 item 250338140783 sensors The right hand one is very awkward, it is not as per the photos at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/mainoxygensensor.html as that's a L/H drive this spanner helps:- item 260413467112 socket /spanner The wire colours are different, white/ black white / black black / blue grey / white

glad you got it sorted out! love the above shot of the LS, I can tell its a fresh wax job with the reflection of the apt. building across the street. B) Yeah, not bad for a 17 year old paint job, I looked out the window and the sun was shining on the building across the street, not that commom an event in Scotland after a winter. Toyota really do paint them well

Just wanted to say how much this forum helped me when my 92 LS400 developed the red hot cats and no power problem. I have only had the car for a few weeks and absolutely love the way it drives ( never had a V8 before) and I was pretty stressed when it died on me. Searching through the forum I found the cause is often the left hand coil pack, and sure enough it was out of spec (6K resistance) I ordered up a second hand replacement and fitted it tonight, and all is well, and I know a lot more about my engine, not so concerned now about possible future problems. Cheers

"Boot" is British for "trunk". A hood is a bonnet. I think fenders are birds. Clear as mud? The poster is saying that alot of early LS's have a problem with intermittent or broken trunk lid wiring. Causes all kinds of weird things to happen. Do a search on trunk lid wiring. Ah, yes, trunk, thanks- separated by a common language... fenders are bumpers here, or guitars..

"Knocking" is when the spark is too far advanced and the burning fuel tries to push the piston back the way it came. It produces a knocking noise. The knock sensors detect this and the car ECU can ammend the spark timing. Presumably your car is having to guess the exact timing for one bank. To be honest, I wouldn't have expected it to make that big a difference to tickover, but I don't have the experience to know

Sounds like the broken and shorting wires at the l/h boot lid hinge? Lots of posts on this

It's the "pinned" items at the top of the forum list

I actually overlooked the pedal freeplay becasue my light was going out when i let up but ill go check that possibility too befoer dumping 150 in the calipers...thanks you could try opening a bleed nipple, if there is a spurt of fluid and the calipers release, you would know it was a fluid pressure problem. If the free play wasn't checked when the master cyl was replaced, I say there was a good chance that's what it is.

Have you got some free play on the brake pedal, it could be the master cylinder piston is not moving back far enough to release the fluid pressure. That's just a general thing, I don't know what the setting is for the LS

My (UK) car has a different shaped diagnostic port mounted on the engine, as well as the dash one, maybe the scanner would fit that?