Brett in AK

Thank GOD! A Lexus owner who has something else interesting in the garage! (And not another identical Lexus!) I just had to reply to your comment about something else interesting in the garage. I'm willing to bet that I have another vehicle in the garage that no one else on the LOC has. A 1950 Dodge B1PW Power Wagon. Lets see someone top that! I'd also wager that most if not all probably don't even know what one looks like? Do the Google thing and check out a real truck. They say that opposites attract! B) Car poor, but loving it! Camry content - I think I saw one once! ;) Okay, my other vehicles: 2008 Harley Davidson Anniversary Screamin' Eagle Ultra Classic 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2003 F350 6.0 Lariat 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 (Like a 4wd Corvette) 1974 Dodge W200 CC (Snow plow & wood hauler!)

Bob,I was reading through your posting and thinking: a dead battery cell, dirty battery terminals, bad ground, loose battery cable connections (either end), bad starter solenoid, bad starter. If the battery is that old, it should probably be replaced on general principle. I know, there are some people who will say that their battery lasted for much longer than that, but that is the exception to the rule as opposed to the norm. Then I came to the sentence where you state it fires on one cylinder enough to take over? Now I'm totally confused. That must shake the heck out of the car when it first starts up. Sounds as though there might be more to this problem than what I initially came up with. What I would do first is take the car to Sears or one of the other shops in town and ask them to perform a load test on the battery. They simply hook up two clamps to the battery, push a button and can tell you instantly if your battery is any good. Shouldn't be any charge for the test either. If that isn't the culprit, then start eliminating the items I listed first and take it from there. A difference of .2 of a volt won't make any difference. Let us know what you discover. Brett

To further clarify this statement a bit, remove the spark plug wire from the plug and "then" blow any dust or debri out of the hole before you remove the plug. Otherwise you're blowing all the crud down into the cylinder. Pretty basic I know, but some folks tend to do exactly what they read.

Well, upon our return to Alaska I was finally able to pick up our "new" 2006 Lexus 430 LS Ultra. What a joy to drive! I am so happy with the car. Black on black, it matches our 98 JGC 5.9. Makes for a pretty nice stable. Can't wait for spring and the chance to get them both detailed and take a picture together. Although relatively new to the Forum I have come to appreciate some of the thoughts and opinions offered here. Brett :) :) :)

Update! As stated we flew down to Washington State and I drove directly to Costco in Tacoma eagerly anticipating those massively discounted Snap On tools. I would imagine you might have heard them laughing all the way up to your house. FYI, Costco, Sams and other similar discount stores do not, nor have they ever sold Snap On tools. So "methinks" perhaps it's time to buy a taller set of boots! :D Having said that though if you ever run across any more of those deals, be sure to post them here and I'm sure there'll be plenty of us to buy them up. Regards, Brett

The reassembly is the part I always worry about! :P

Harbor Freight might be a "good buy" as far as the amount of dollars you spend, but other than that most of their products are cheap garbage. Tools are like anything else, you get what you pay for. I would think you might have a bit of a problem when it comes time to exchange for a replacement. Save your money and buy quality, you'll save in the long run. Nothing is worse than wrenching in tight quarters and have the wrench or socket break on you. Kind of tough on those knuckles as well. Here's a suggestion though, hit the garage sales in your area. You can find some real bargains on tools. Also it wouldn't hurt to try the pawn shops. The nice thing about picking up quality used tools is they still are guaranteed for a lifetime, not just to the original owner. Keep a box of bandaids handy, you'll need them!

You bought a Snap-on socket set with wrenches and everything at Costco for $90? :lol: I guess I've got a bit of Missouri blood in me as I'd have to see that to believe it. <_< We're flying down from Alaska to Washington state in a couple of days and I will run not walk to Costco to check that out. All I've ever seen in Sam's which is pretty comparable is the cheap stuff. BTW, we are going to relocate to Whidbey Island as soon as we sell out up here so might run into you sometime. Regards, Brett

IMHO I believe that ramps are an accident waiting to happen. If you try and use them on a cement floor they want to "scoot" out when you try and drive up on them, and if you have a rear wheel drive it's even worse as you are trying to push up on them rather than climb up with a front or four wheel drive vehicle. If you use them in gravel or dirt, they tend to sink into the ground. Also the air dam is so low it will probably be damaged when it hits the ramp. I only use jackstands. If you're going to purchase a set, then go ahead and spend a little extra for a set of heavy duty ones, not the cheaper style. If you're reluctant to spend the extra dollars, ask yourself how much is your life worth when lying beneath several thousand pounds of car? Once as a very young lad I had jacked a car up with a bumper jack and crawled under it to do some repairs. I pulled on something and down she came. The only thing that saved my bacon is I had my toolbox under the car with me. Guess it just wasn't my time. Today much older (Thank you God!) and much wiser. Regarding the torque wrenches, you should only need two. One to read foot pounds (1/2 " drive) and one to read inch pounds (3/8" drive). I see no reason to have a third one. The 1/2" drive will suffice to muscle anything you are going to run up against. However if you are so inclined they do make torque wrenches in 3/4" and 1" if you've eaten your box of Wheaties in the morning. Both of mine are Craftsman and they have worked just fine. I've had the calibration checked several times and they always remain constant. Don't bother with a dial indicator, as half the time you try and use them you can't see the dial. Here again, buy a quality tool. You get what you pay for and with aluminum the torque value is even more critical. Lastly I agree with another comment to purchase a quality hydraulic floor jack. Brett

NOVUS makes a very good three step process for cleaning Lexan and other plastic surfaces. I've used it on my airplane windshield and side windows. I've also used it on faded headlight lenses and glass. Go to any NOVUS windshield repair shop and they'll have exactly what you need.

What color is your car and what color is the interior? Perhaps more importantly, what do "you" think? If you're happy, we're happy! :)

Thanks anyway, I appreciate the effort. I've seen a couple on EBay and they are different. Please take a look at them and tell which one is correct. I'll probably go that route. Thanks again! Brett

I would sure like to have it if you have a spare one! Please let me know. Email sent! Regards, Brett

Like you already guessed I don't use the car that much. So therefore (after the third time it occurred) I went to a battery specialist which measured everything and found it all to be OK except for the battery being low on charge. He even refused to sell me a new battery (small town, small business with service and honesty) because it's in my usage of the car. I drive it not that much (office @ home) so he suggested I would charge it monthly to keep the battery's health up. If the problem will persist he will measure the power etc etc in the car for leaking currents, bad battery or whatever but he didn't want to charge me for something that probably can be fixed with an occasional overnight trickle charge. He mentioned a gell battery but found them very expensive and gave me some homework to do first. Thankt for the tips, you confirm everything the charger's manual states so some extra peace of mind there. The charger is a 'big one' in a small package. It will charge a 80 Amp battery in 14-16 hrs and then goes into trickle mode, sorry if I put you guys off on that one. English isn't my native language. It's this charger: Ctek 3600 euro model @Brett in AK: I kinda agree on attachting direct to the +/- poles because there is a permanent lead with a cable that has 'eye's' at one end to permanently attach a charging cable to the battery. At the other end there is a female connector (the alligator leads have a similair female connector) for attaching it to the male end of the cable coming out of the charger. I found a site (in Dutch but the pictures are self explaining) : Pictures It's picture nr 3 and wire B. In picture 7 and 8 you can see it connected. That's the permanent lead cable I'm referring to. So therefore I started wondering since the manual states that I shouldn't attach the black alligatorclamps to the battery itselve but I can when using the other lead which only differs at the end (eyes instead of clamps) ?? by the way: the second time my headlights were on for the first 15 minutes, so my own fault I guess.... I'll keep you guys posted on this one. Took a quick look at the pictures and immediately saw your problem. You've got the charger hooked up to an Alfa Romeo instead of your Lexus! :D Actually if you look at the pictures they have the permanent pigtails mounted to the battery poles with a connector on the other end. Simply plug that connector into the lead from the battery charger and plug it in. You don't even use the clamps. I cannot read Dutch, but I would bet that charger you have purchased is what we would refer to as a floating battery charger. By that I mean that it only charges when necessary and simply goes into a standby phase when the battery has a full charge. Best of luck.

Good reply, but I don't quite agree about using a ground rather than the negative battery post or anode for a battery charger. What you have described is the procedure for jumping a battery from another vehicle. I always connect to both poles when using a charger. You will not have any spark at all if the charger is turned off as it should be before making the connections. I have a Battery Tender for use on my Harley as well as the ATV. Whenever they are not in use they are being charged. It is a floating type system so once it reaches full charge it simply floats or rests until a charge is again called for. The battery on my 98 Grand Cherokee will run down in about a month if left sitting due to the security system and other minimal draws. Once I installed the Battery Tender I never had a problem again. Now regarding the battery running down so quickly, something is seriously wrong and I'm thinking a dead cell in the battery. Take it to any battery shop or mechanic and they can put a tester on it while in the car and be able to tell you immeidately if it needs to be replaced. If you have a good alternator and a bad battery, the volt meter will still indicate normal output. Check that battery and while you're there check for good connections on the poles/posts/anodes and also the end of the negative cable where it attaches to the block. Please let us know what you find out.

Has your differential been destroyed? You might be better off having it rebuilt, at least that way you know what you have as opposed to what you could wind up with out of the bone yard where they sell pumpkins!

Thank you! I'll keep my eyes and ears open for an original, perhaps one will turn up.Brett

I am looking for a sales brochure for my 2006 Lexus LS 430 I just bought. Does anyone have one laying around they'd like to part with or know where I can pick one up? Thanks much! Brett

Yeah! What he said :)

That's an easy way to do it and does eliminate the mess and chance of any leak around the pan gasket. If you bought the car from a private owner or if it is not a CPO at a dealership, you really don't know how the car has been driven. I would still opt for doing it the old fashioned way and drop the pan and change the filter. That way there is no question in your mind about the condition of your transmission. Years ago I bought an old Dodge Power Wagon and when I pulled the dipstick to take a look at the oil it was clean and clear. A couple of months later the oil pan developed a fairly significant leak so I dropped the pan and it had about an inch of sludge in the bottom. So moral of the story is you don't really know if you don't take a look. Granted engines and lubricants have dramatically improved over the years, but the basics remain the same. Brett

I just bought a CPO 2006 LS 430 Ultra with 29k on the meter for $36,500. After nosing around for awhile I believe it is a better than fair deal. The dealership so far has been a pleasure to deal with. I had another dealer looking for me and when he called to say he had found one I told him I had just bought one. His response was great and said if I ever had any questions to call him and he would be happy to answer them. This from a dealership that is 2,500 miles away! So far I'm sold on the experience I have had in looking for and talking with the Lexus folks. I hope it's not just a honeymoon phase and from what I've experienced so far I don't believe it is. FWIW, I'll be 60 in a few months. Must be something in the water!

Well, no one will have to know that is until you get ready to sell it with a salvage title. Still all in all not a bad deal to keep a good everyday driver on the road. Just don't expect much for it when you go to sell it. I'm not sure, but I think you wouldn't be able to trade it in at a dealership? Your best bet and perhaps the only way will be a private sale.Brett

Try this web site. toyodiy.com/parts

I don't know who Blake is, but he can surely jump in if he wants. Use the dipstick. what a novel idea! My point was once the color has changed dramatically or the smell of the fluid, then it's time (perhaps overdue?) to change the fluid and filter. I'd take a wild guess that somewhere in the owners manual it might even suggest the fluid needs to be changed at the suggested scheduled intervals. Who knows, they might even mention something about the other fluids in the car? For those who don't subscribe to regular maintenance that's okay too! I've always performed my own maintenance and so far it has paid off. Brett

Hey Brett, The link I provided is simply a pinned/stickied policy of the LOC on selling copied NAV DVDs. You asked about the club sharing Nav DVDs and I figured that board policy would speak for itself without involving my own opinion in the matter. Having worked in the IT side of the entertainment industry, including the largest music company in the world and three different movie houses, I am familiar with the laws regarding copyright material and I understand why these people want to get paid for their work. In my position we did a lot of work combating piracy and frankly, it nearly ruined our industry. I guess my point is that my insight is probably fairly educated where the issue of piracy is concerned. Please provide insight if you have any on Denso/Navteq position on copying their material. If they consider the older version software to be abandoned by toyota/lexus and hence not subject to anti-piracy rules, that would make my week. Even if they supported this idea, I am pretty sure that they wouldn't be on board with the idea of treating their current $300 software as shareware. Additionally if you have information, in writing of course, stating that they do not mind if you copy their product to your heart's content and sell it/trade it, please post it. I have bought 4 updates over the years and would welcome the opportunity to get it for free in the future. Looking forward to new insight, B Hello Billy,The information I received, per tel con, was the update could be downloaded on as many vehicles as necessary, as long as the generation was correct and you owned the vehicle(s). They further told me if I were to buy another Lexus and it didn't have the latest update, then go ahead and use the DVD! So, as you can see the DVD is not restricted or registered to only one vehicle. I'm curious if you owned more than one Lexus utilizing the same generation of GPS, and took each one into the dealership, would they charge you for each vehicle, or would they just use one DVD? Here's another scenario. If you purchased the DVD update and borrowed your friends Lexus who had an older version of the GPS information, would you be in violation of copywright laws by using your DVD in his car while on your trip? I could see where one would be in clear violation if they copied the DVD, but that's not what I'm getting at here. I am brand new to this forum and full of questions. I haven't even taken possession of my Lexus yet. I didn't see anything about this subject in previous posts and figured who better to ask? I appreciate your experience and wealth of knowledge you've expressed, but the suggestion of being banned for simply asking an innocent question I thought was perhaps a little harsh. Perhaps it could have been worded differently? I was also told the DVD must be in the player in order to utilize the updates, so the the question is really a moot point. FWIW the GPS doesn't even work here in Alaska, so you can see it was just a simple question as opposed to anythng sinister. Nuff said! Regards from a former Utahan (Moab) Brett