jr1000a

I put the new starter in and would have had it done in one day. Before installing the intake, I reconnected the battery and put the relay back in, starter started cranking again with no key or fuse. I stopped working on it for two weeks just to shake it off. I went ahead and finished putting it back together, and am able to put the relay back in without the starter cranking. At least now, I am back to square one where the engine isn't cranking, but the fuse pops as soon as I turn the key to the start position. I am tracing wires and checking components in the circuit. Also, I love my car, but I think we need to hunt down the engineer that designed the external components of the engine, and have him personally change every starter on every LS400 on the road. If anyone is interested, I will post my experience and some recommendations that might help make the replacement a little less difficult.

Don't know about the voltage readings. But My 93ls had the same problem. Sent my ecm for repair. they sent it back saying it was to far gone to repair. Bought one on e-bay now my ls runs fine.

Thanks. Did I read correctly that most of the top part of the engine has to come off to get the starter off? I don't have a problem doing that, I did the timing belt/water pump full tuneup a year ago, I just hope I read wrong, or that there is a shortcut of some sort.

Went to start my 94 LS400 and it wouldn't even click. Battery is fully charged. 7.5 starter fuse was blown. replaced, and blew again. for test purposes, put a wire in it's place. Starter turned over and wouldn't stop. Pulled wire and it kept turning. Pulled starter relay to get it to stop. Contacts are open on relay until I plug it in. Doesn't matter if ignition switch is on, or even has the key in, now. I am thinking ignition switch and hoping it's not starter or solenoid. I can turn ignition switch to on, install relay temporarily and start the car. It runs normally, but all indicator lights stay on and white lights, (speedo, tach, fuel gauge) stay off. Help.

Being from the commercial side of the automotive aftermarket for 30 years, (my god, has it been that long?) I have been told by mechanics I trust, that Syntetics are a worthwhile ugrade. The molecular structure makes for less friction, they don't break down as quickly, and are better for startup. Having said that, you still get the same amount of contaminants no matter what you use. So to get the best of both worlds, use 1 quart of the synethic and regular quality oil for the rest. You get the advantages synthetic has to offer, but since you still need to change your oil every 3-5k miles, you don't pay nearly as much in the long run. Myself, I just by the blended when it's on sale. And I know it's just mental, but the first time I did the semi-synthetic oil change, my 94LS felt like it had some new kick to it.

I would never use WD40 as a permanent lubricant. If there's a pulley squeaking or stiffening, it needs to be replaced. My 94 LS400 I bought a month ago, just broke the drive belt. Feeling the pulleys, I found that the fan clutch brackt pulley had froze up solid. Didn't have any warning either. Find out which pulley is squealing before you break down and have to wait for parts. (I am a new member and this is my first reply, hope I didn't pull a fopah of any sort)