rmk9785e

I realize this is 16 years old thread but the RX300 is a hardy vehicle as is its P0446 code. Even with all the discussion, there is no step by step troubleshooting guidance. Where can one access the RX300 repair manual and this TSB (EG001R-99)?

Our 2015 NX had developed haze in the outer edges of the GPS screen. Please see images attached. No idea how it happened but we’re hoping someone has figured out a way to clear it.

Thank you for the advice. I went through the exercise of removing the servos, cleaning and lubricating. I could have saved myself time and effort if I had first checked if they were performing as designed (which they were). Took the car to a shop. They diagnosed and advised me it was low on Freon (0.5 lb), vacuum tested, replaced 2 valves and refilled gas to 1.3 lb with PAG Oil w/Fluorescent Dye. They could not find the leak. It is cooling very well.

On my 1999 RX300 AC, the 2 passenger side vents are delivering warmer air compared to the 2 vents on the driver side and 2 vents in the middle for the rear seats which provide cold air. Something is wrong with the airflow duct and control systems. Performed AC diagnostics but there is no error code. Can someone please point me to any documentation where I can find and trace the duct work?

Thank you for your sane advice. I'll let the dealer handle the repairs if I trade it in. If I sell directly to another consumer then I'll at least fix the brakes and replace the front tires understanding that I'll not recover the costs. I don't want to sell it to another person without fixing known safety issues.

Thank you. I listed 90K mile maintenance since I understand it is a major maintenance (which had not been performed). The car, now with 105K miles, will be sold and replaced with a newer model however we'd like to take care of maintenance necessary for safety and transfer the car in a reasonable shape. The Lexus dealership and a Toyota dealership have provided the following estimates: Front brakes including rotors - $625 (Brakes are worn out) /Toyota:$525 Replace Front tires: $375 (Tires are worn out) Front wheel alignment - $159.88 /Toyota:$89.95 Brake fluid flush/refill: $159.88 /Toyota:$139.95 Transmission fluid replacement: $293.88 (They said we should have it done if it was not done at 60K miles) /Toyota:$189.95 Engine coolant flush & replacement: $109.88 /Toyota:$159.95 Differential oil replacement: $99.88 /Toyota:$99.95 Power Steering fluid replacement: $129.88 /Toyota:$139.95 Spark Plugs replacement: $480.88 (They said we should have it done if it was not done at 60K miles) /Toyota:$510 Of course, we'll have oil and filter replaced. We'll also replace air filter and the cabin AC filter. We are told this car has a timing chain and not a belt so no replacement is required. How often should these fluids and spark plugs be replaced? Any words of advice are appreciated.

My understanding of breaking-in a new car used to be keeping the engine below 3K RPM during the first couple of thousand miles. Am I to take this response as humor for a newbie?

I've searched for recommended maintenance on a 2007 IS250 with 90K miles. Lexus shows only the following replacements: Replace engine oil and oil filter Rotate tires (Applies to models with the same size front and rear tires and wheels.) Replace air conditioner filter Replace brake fluid Replace engine air filter Some posts additionally suggest Replace Timing Belt Rotate Water Pump Replace Power Steering Fluid Replace Transmission fluid Replace Radiator Fluid Replace Differential Fluid I'm wondering which of the services I should plan for. Any links to better information is appreciated.

I foolishly damaged one of my wheel locks by turning it in the opposite direction (tightening rather than loosening). Is there an alternate source for full set of lock nuts other than Lexus?

Thank you both. It took a couple of hours and it was worth it.

Need to do brakes and replace tires on 07 IS250 with 103K miles. There is great information available on these forums with pictures and videos on how to do it. I'm interested in recommendations for buying rotors and pads i.e. preferred brands and sources to buy from. Also are there any tires that are as good but less expensive than the OEM tires on this car? Thank you.

My 99 RX300 has been giving trouble starting even with full battery (and jump start). It just makes clicking sounds which leads me to suspect it is the solenoid contacts. This may be unusual in a one owner car that has only 70,000 miles on it so far but it has been happening occasionally for the past 5 years. I thought it was weak battery and had it replaced under warranty. The new one worked for 4-1/2 years with rare instances of starting difficulty but it has gotten much worse during this past week so I'm ready to take the next step. (My second car, a 2006 IS250 was rear ended and then totalled by insurance this past week so I need a reliable car until I buy a replacement.) The nearest Lexus dealer is about 40 miles away so I'm thinking I may be able to get the parts to rebuild the starter solenoid form the local Toyota dealership. Please point me to a source to find the Denso (or Toyota) part numbers. Thank you.

Sorry. I should have mentioned that I tried the 6mm screws mentioned above but they did not seem to even catch the threads which means I either need a longer screw or size larger than 6mm.

We just moved to California and need to install the front plate on our 1999 RX300. We have the mounting bracket and there are two holes in the front bumber where it was previously installed. What size screws should we buy for installing this mount and plate?

The Check Engine Light is on for my 2007 IS-250 with 73,000 miles. The dealership says "bank 2 sensor 1, air fuel ratio sensor has an open circuit which is causing the computer to run it rich". Are the sensors are mostly the same between various models of Toyota and Lexus? I posted this on IS250 forum but haven't had any response so I thought I would try the general forum. My aplogies for cross posting.

The Check Engine Light is on for my 2007 IS-250 with 73,000 miles. The dealership says "the bank 2 sensor 1 air fuel ratio sensor has an open circuit which is causing the computer to run it rich". I have been helped before by the many experienced and knowledgeable people on these forums and hope I will again receive the needed guidance. I need the OEM part number for this sensor and any pictures showing its location so I can replace it or have it replaced at a reasonably priced shop in the San Francisco Bay area. Thank you in advance.

Thank you all for your help. I ended up driving about 90 miles before all systems were set. Most were ready within the first 20 miles the only one that took time was the EVAP one and probably it had to do with bringing the gas tank down below 3/4 full. It passed today.

We've driven it less than 10 miles. Will drive it around and see if that helps. Is there any other way to reset the control system?

I took my 99 RX300 for inspection this morning. The shop stated that inspection cannot be completed. They asked if I had changed the battery recently which requiers the car to be driven 80+ miles for the computer to be reset. The print-out they gave me has the following on it: MIL Off Number of DTCs: 0 Continuous Monitoring test results: Misfire monitoring complete Fuel System Monitoring Complete Comprehensive component monitoring Complete Non-Continuous Monitoring test results: Heated catalyst monitoring: Not Supported Evaporative system monitoring: NOT COMPLETE Secondary Air System: Not Supported A/C system refrigerant monitoring: Not Supported Oxygen Sensor monitoring: NOT COMPLETE Oxygen Sensor heater monitoring: NOT COMPLETE EGR system monitoring: Not Supported I recently had CEL on and following advice from this forum, purchased Denso 234-9009 air/fuel sensor and had it installed to replace Bank1 Sensor1 by a shop. I have not had the CEL Since that time. Please advise any steps I can take to 'have the computer reset' for the inspection system to inspect and pass the car. I have access to AutoTap Express DIY - OBDII Scanner. Thank you.

My mistake. The first code was P0125. I hope this is not as serious.

RMK- as you may know all 3 of the P1130 codes refer to the rear A/F ratio sensor (on the exhaust manifold by the firewall). I have to say that it is POSSIBLE, but highly unlikely that that sensor would fail on ALL counts at the same time. There is no P015 code, but there is a P0015 ("B" camshaft position- overretarded, bank 1). I have a piece if advice- buy an inexpensive scanner so that you can do your own code reading. You can buy them as cheap as $40.-$50. and a pretty nice one for non-professional use for $100. The 1st thing you want to do in a case such as yours is hook up and cancel ALL codes. Then see what comes back, if any! When you get a flurry of codes like that you NEVER chase those codes. I have seen many times where NO codes come back. If you have code or codes come back, deal with THAT code. If you want, cancel again and see if the same code comes back and how soon. Then you begin to get some clarity to the picture. Also, codes are a ROAD SIGN, not a laser pointer. Sometimes they will point at the problem, sometimes in the general direction, sometimes in the wrong direction! Please understand that! It's a lot easier (and better) if you have your own scanner or code reader to have the flexibility that I mentioned. Meantime, do ALL the research you can in "Searches" on the forums to gain an education so that you won't be at the mercy of the "parts changers" and end up with your pockets turned inside out! Take this advice, it's GOOD advice, and it's FREE! Good Luck! Thank you for your prompt and wise advice. I will become a better informed consumer by researching through the forums for this topic. What do members think of the Autotap (www.autotap.com) scan tool set for this purpose?

My 99 RX300 (60,792 miles) has Check Engine Light on for the past few weeks. This is an almost new one owner car that has been well taken care of. My wife drives it probably twice a week for about 10 miles each time. I checked at Advance AutoPart Store with their ODB II Code reader and got these four codes (in fact 5 because P1135 was listed twice). I have read through the forums and have seen many discussions of similar codes even though the combination of codes differs. There is no definitive solution or answer in spite of many people trying various things and spending big bucks. I had the CEL problem once earlier (about 5,000 miles ago) and followed the instruction in this forum to clean one Oxygen sensor below the air filter. I did not check the codes at that time so I don't know if it was the same. The problem went away. I am sure there are master mechanics also on these forums. Can't anyone come up with possible solutions other than replacing all the sensors, wiring harness, manifold, coolant thermostat etc. May I suggest that problems for which solutions have been found are flagged somehow so members can quickly see the ones with solutions. I think of taking the car to the dealership. If they replace parts one at a time but the problem keeps coming back then it is possible some of the work was unnecessary. No one can afford to waste money in these tough economic times. What is one to do in this situation? Help please!

The rear tires on my 2007 IS-250 have worn out. The original tires on the car are Bridgestone Firenza. In looking for replacement at TIRES.COM, GoodYear Eagle GT 255/40/18 tires are recommended but when I go to purchase them, I receive two warnings. 1- These tires are for higher load rating than OEM tires for your car. They may result in harsher ride. 2- Handling may be impacted by mixing different brand and type of tires (front and back). What is your experience and which tires would you recommend?

I had my home broken into over the weekend, 1999 RX-300 and both its keys stolen. The car was later recovered but with one key only. What options do I have to disable the missing key? Thanks.

You can't clean the MAF using 99% Alcohol like the link suggests - it doesn't work. Use CRC throttle body cleaner in a spray can. Two or three blasts inside will clean the MAF. This cleaning solved my problem. I used Chemtronics Electro Wash, a Non-CFC cleaner that dries immediately.