TexasLexus94

I paid a bundle to change the water pump that was leaking, along with changing the timing belt, too. The crankshaft bolt wouldn't come out, so the repair took 2 weeks. I replaced the ACV valve, and spent at least 1G on replacing bulbs, belts, hoses, radiator, pads and rotors, etc. And I used to back the 94 out of the garage, stop, and check if there were leaks on the floor from the P/S pump. Daily. Finally the A/C broke-totally. And I live in Vegas, desert hell. Estimate was $1,500-"Maybe more". The point is that my pretty Lexus was bought with 97,000 miles. At 122,000 miles, I had it exterminated at the local Datsun dealer. Under the Cash for Clunkers program. My conclusion is that when you have to worry about leaks and noises from your car incessantly, your car is a PIA. And it costs a fortune to fix it. I once thought I'd change the power steering pump myself-OMG, what a pain. In conclusion, I'd like to thank NC211 for bringing me to reality, and realizing that an old 1st gen Lexus is a great car, but it's like your favorite uncle-A little wobbly, creaky, and headed for the great beyond.

I paid $5,100 for my 94 LS 5 years ago. But I also traded in a Honda beater with it. So it's hard to tell what I really paid. The Lexus only had 97,000 miles, but within a year, it was water pump/timing belt time. $1,300. Yes, too much, but all the wheely dealies on the timing belt needed to be changed, plus the main crankshaft bolt wouldn't come out. So it was a cluster****. Took 2 weeks to get it back. So then the A/C broke last summer. I live in Vegas. So not good. I recharged the R134A, and it worked until a few weeks ago. I recharged it again, but no luck this time. So I thought "Robert, you know the P/S pump and the alternator are next. Whatcha' gonna do?" A grand or 2 for the A/C, and then P/S time? So I traded the 94LS in on the new Sentra, 29 mpg total, 34 highway. With the $2,000 incentive plus the $4,500 Clunker, the total was $12,300. Sales tax and doc fees and all the other BS brought it to around $14,000. And yes, I have a cheaper car. But what I noticed is that they must have really improved the suspensions on these new cars. My other car, a 2005 Mazda MX-5 turbo convertible, will rattle your teeth riding over bumps. The Sentra is much smoother than I expected. Not a Lexus, but it's nice enough. BTW-Clunkers ends in 3 days. So I am a lucky boy. Best of luck, Lexus owners. This is the best forum on the Internet. I will miss it.

Well, I pulled the trigger. 11 Grand for a Nissan Sentra that gets 29 mpg. Little cracker box. Totally loaded. Hated to lose the 94LS, but the A/C broke again, and God knows what else was out there waiting to happen. Since I'm retired, my longest drive is 47 miles to Arizona for lottery tickets. $2,000 incentive plus Clunker cash equaled $6,500 off. Total was $11,300. Thanks especially to all members and especially NC211. NC's advice about throwing money into a relic was spot on. But I'm gonna' miss Old Lucy94. Wish I had a wife as faithful.

And NC211 wins again! The day he writes about Cash for Clunkers, the A/C broke again in my beloved 94LS. I went and recharged the R134A, as I did last Fall, but this time, after working perfectly for 2-1/2 months in the God awful Las Vegas heat, it didn't work. Damn. So I guess it's C for C time. I am still amused about the program, however, since I know the stealers are listing the cars at retail, and then applying the C for C money. Since I think after the program ends, sales will fall off a cliff, I think I could easily get more than $4,500 off the list with my wounded trade and incentives. So I'm thinking about using the LS as a Winter car, and trading it in late Spring. Sadly, I love the ride of the LS, but you can only beat the mule so many times. 122,000 miles. Woe is me.....

You did great. I'm totally jealous. May have to go to the Auto Mall. $14,500? OMG. Way to go, buddy. You did good...

I'm struggling with the same dilemma. My 94LS is rated at 18 mpg, so it qualifies. 122,000 miles. Runs like a top. Something about the sales tax and the trip to the DMV keeps me at bay. Plus the insurance here in Nevada is foolish-thank you, drunk drivers. I think you made the right decision, however. Best of luck on your new car. Can you tell us how much you paid total? Just curious...

Oops, I didn't notice that you have an R12 system. My '94 is R134A. So I guess your problem is worse than I thought. Too bad you didn't have it changed to R134A. Very best of luck.

In 2004, my A/C went out. I took it to a thief indie who later went out of business. He wanted $1,200 to replace the compressor and the evaporator. I agreed, but on the way home, I noticed that the A/C was working perfectly. Seems his mechanic simply reattached something to do with the doors that open and shut. So it cost me $200 total. Four years later, the A/C suddenly stopped working again. The light on the dash was blinking. Checking with this forum, it would seem the compressor stopped working, prob from a leak. It was in the fall, and the heat had finally gone away here in Vegas. So I went to Pep Boys, and bought a filler doobie with gauge, and 2 cans of R-134A. I filled up the A/C, but it only took one can. It was the leak stop refrigerant. Then I did nothing for over 6 months. Never tested it, just let it sit. Come late May, it was time to test it. Voila! It's working great, over 2-1/2 months now. It will blow you out of the car. My point is that if I had to pay thousands to fix the A/C, the car would be in the Cash for Clunkers program. It qualifies at 18 mpg. But no, even if it breaks again, I'll just fill it up again. 5 bucks a can at Wally World. Give it a try...

I have a 94LS Gen 1 that has had no problems with the P/S leak, and subsequent Alt failure. 121,000 miles. Did have the leaky water pump/timing belt problem that cost me a bundle, however. But I know its going to happen. I check my garage floor every couple of days for any sign of a leak, plus check the fluid, too.. It sucks, for sure. So I'm thinking of trading it in for a new car, with all the rebates, incentives, and the Cash for Clunkers deal. My car gets 18 mpg, so it's eligible. I think I can lie to the stealers, and get $4,500 off a new car, and then pull the clunkers deal, and get 9G off. Easy. But the A/C on the old Lexi will blow you out of the car. And I live in Vegas, where it's 109 right now. I did have to recharge the A/C, but it has been super for 3 months. Rides like it's brand new because we don't have freezing weather, potholes, rain or snow or ice or salt. So I'm conflicted. The Clunkers deal lasts until December, so I have a little time. What do you think??

This happens to me quite often. I change my rotors and pads on my 94 when needed. But I disconnected the brake pad sensors a long time ago-I think I'm smart enough to know when the pads are worn down. But every now and then, the little light comes on. Maybe one of the wires is getting grounded-I have not a clue. But I don't care, the brakes are perfect. Best of luck.

I'm a big advocate of PB Blaster. Simply take a flat screwdriver, and pop the controller out of its nest. Disconnect the electrical connector. Take the controller into the kitchen. No beer, send the kids and the old lady outside. Don't drop it, you will lose the springs. Remove the wood trim and the cover with the switches. You have exposed the electrical contacts that the switches control. The contacts are old and worn, like me. Spray a nice coat of PB all over the assembly. Wait a while, and then reassemble the unit. Your problem will be solved. Guaranteed. Did it 5 years ago on my 1994. No problems since. Best of luck.

You are driving me insane. But the first picture does show the area that you need to spray. But where are the springs? Not a big deal, but you may have messed up the whole controller. Maybe not-I hope not. Just carefully spray the guts, and reinstall the whole unit. Jesus God, I need help here. He's a good guy, but lost. Best of luck...

Oops, you live in Illinois, not Michigan. Sorry. Anyway, it's safe to use the windows while spraying them with PB. Best of luck, Rod Blogojevich. Can I borrow your hair for the weekend?

I may have confused you. When you lift up the wood trim, you then lift up the plate that holds the switches. Then you should have a box with springs sitting there. This is the place that you spray with PB. The place where the switches contact the copper contacts. Simple, and it works. Screw the switches, it's the contacts that have worn out. Best of luck. You need it living in Michigan these days, I guess.

Topgun, you are confusing me here. You have a picture of a single switch that you sprayed with PB. WTF? The whole idea is to remove the trim and all the switches, and then unscrew the cover that exposes the guts of the controller. Where there are all kinds of electrical contacts that all the switches contact. In other words, it's not the switches fault that the windows don't work. You don't even need to spray the switches at all. It's the copper doobies that are worn down in the assembly. Forget about the switches, and concentrate on what they touch. The switches aren't bad, the connectors are bad. Show me a pic of your naked assembly treated with PB, not your little individual switches. Then I will believe you that you have a problem. Very best of luck.