Marklouis

any dealer part no matter what it is ...is a reboxed item

...so is christmas fruitcake..

happens all the time.

reboxed items are sold at all parts stores for sure - i bought a bearing housing once for a grand prix from auto zone that had greasy thumbprints all over it from the last guy...i felt so violated. :(

didnt have time to return it - so cleaned it and inspected it and slapped it on with no issues - still a frustrating ordeal.

Unfortunately, I forgot to report that I still occasionally have that "bucking" on light acceleration as the grade of the road changes. Its like there is "slack" somewhere and it will lunge unevenly back and forth. I am hoping its the motor mounts. If not, I am afraid its the torque converter, or so I was told by someone else. :( I thought these transmissions lasted longer than 200K miles. My car was never abused and has only received the best service. Of course, someone else also said it could be the throttle body needs cleaned. Hmmm.

The transmission shifts flawlessly... smooth and smooth.

congrats on your smooth shifting!! feels good dutnit? i also have that same "bucking" issue on my 95ls - but mine is more related to the TPS - seems like it feeds too much air fuel on low throttle and it "bucks " for half a second. still working on it.

like you, my engine mounts are next - having more options to shop from is a good thing. next week im taking the plunge and ordering my parts - from where is still in the air for now.

:P

I dont think RDM knows what he is talking about. I have looked everywhere for ls400 mounts and the best I can find are:

1990 to 2000 Lexus LS400 Engine Motor Mount OEM STYLE $74.95

http://lexus-car-parts.macautoparts.net/Mo...roductInfo.aspx

sure hope I'm wrong....... waiting

Nice attitude, calling a guy a liar without researching. Why would I state something not in fact?

www.mybushings.com

I posted a link last week. I have both engine mounts and the transmission mount sitting in my toolbox awaiting installation. $31.50 for the engine mounts, like $43 for the transmission mount.

:o very nice link....that's pure awesome sauce.

thanks for posting - due to the not so bad pricing - and the car being 8 years out of warranty - might check into it myself. please post feedback on the install and end results guys. B) probably a good optional replacement for those who arent dead serious on Lexus O.E. parts.

definately might consider the suspension parts for sure.

hope it turns out well! ;)

;)

Dashboard brake light comes on at weird times. A. when braking kind of hard. B. when accelerating (sometimes)??

Any ideas?

definately low on Brake Fluid - if your fluid looks very dark brown or almost black in the master cylinder reservoir - you can use a turkey baster to pull some of the old out before putting in new. just be sure to twist the screen filter out first. just an option. fill your reservoir almost to the max line.

if it is low again in a couple weeks or months, you have a leak somewhere for sure.

good luck!

B)

i hate the look of steering wheel covers, but you might want to invest in a simple one for know to help protect what you have left until you get a solution - there are actually some pretty good looking covers if you spend a little.

good luck! B)

The urethane mounts are actually cheaper, the engine mounts are only $32 each, transmission mount is $43 IIRC.

i did'nt think any other product types were available - what manufacturer are selling these and is the urethane mounted to genuine brackets?

would be nice to have a link - cause my next project is the engine mounts....after i fix my power steering issue.

B)

I dont think RDM knows what he is talking about. I have looked everywhere for ls400 mounts and the best I can find are:

1990 to 2000 Lexus LS400 Engine Motor Mount OEM STYLE $74.95

http://lexus-car-parts.macautoparts.net/Mo...roductInfo.aspx

sure hope I'm wrong....... waiting

Urethane is a much stiffer compound anyways - not sure what the equation would be when applied to stabilization mounts that are designed to absorb/reduce vibrations/frequencies. Probably better applied to just suspension parts

.

The urethane mounts are actually cheaper, the engine mounts are only $32 each, transmission mount is $43 IIRC.

i did'nt think any other product types were available - what manufacturer are selling these and is the urethane mounted to genuine brackets?

would be nice to have a link - cause my next project is the engine mounts....after i fix my power steering issue.

B)

So next Thursday (8-27) I am taking a short road trip with my LS :)

From here (Port Angeles, WA) to there (Salt Lake City, UT) ~925mi one way.

One of my cousins is getting married so it should be a fun one!

My LS has about 167k miles on her.

I've had my oil changed, tranny fluid changed, new wipers, new serp belt. tires rotated... just getting a few maintenance items out of the way before the trip!!

But anyways... just thought I'd let everyone know about the trek ahead of my LS!! B) I'm excited, first trip this long for my car! The last trip, from here to Los Angeles, CA was done in my sister's Chrysler 300. I was surprised at how comfortable that car really was when you got it cruising on the highway. Still.. 06 Chrysler, no match for my 97 LS with +166k B) B) B)

hope it goes well for you - did a 1500 mile trip from alabama to wisconsin a couple weeks ago in the LS, and man it did great. Averaged 27.5 miles per gallon with a passenger and loaded down trunk.

...

Be sure to fill the res. with ATF after you install the solenoid. Bet this is your problem.

Agreed with the comment on the solenoid filter. Big improvement for me when I did it on my '91.

To clarify on "fill with ATF": the PS system uses DEXRON III ATF. DEXRON is a specification, not a brand, so many companies make it. Not to be confused with the Toyota Type T-4 ATF that goes in your AT. Don't put DEXRON in the AT, and don't put Type T-4 ATF in the PS (may not be a problem, but DEXRON is way cheaper than the Toyota stuff, and the Lexus calls for DEXRON III in the PS system).

great info - i only replaced my fluid about 3 weeks ago with dexron V full synthetic (which it should cover dexron III - no parts store carried dexron III anymore). the filter on the sylenoid would not budge, even with vice grips. is there a trick to this?

anyways the steering was great for 3 weeks, now i am getting the intermitten smooth, rough, smooth, rough when turning at any RPM. maybe the filter finally got clogged up enough to restrict the flow?? what is the best way to get it off of a 95 LS?

will be taking pics this time for sure.

;)

Didnt get it changed today... my dad decided this morning he had to use the ramps to take out his clutch on his 69' Camaro to replace it, so I have been delayed a couple of days. <_< Hopefully will get it changed Monday evening or Tuesday.

THEN onto working on the PS pump.... or should I say change it.

what a difference it is going to make - then you will get the fever to replace everything on your LS that mounts with rubber!

I notice the feel of the 2000 versus the feel of my previous 93 is substansially different. Different ride and, of course different acceleration. I am still trying to adjuust to the new ride. Its hard to believe the car is the same size and weight.

Really! I drove my 13 year old 90 LS400 into the Lexus dealer in 2003 and test drove a low mileage off-lease CPO 2000 LS400 and a new 2003 LS430 back-to-back. It was surprising how little the 2000 LS400 felt like the 90 LS and how it felt much more like the LS430.

The coolest thing about buying a 2000 LS400 in the same color combination as my 90 LS400 - at least to me - was that few people realized I was driving a different car. I sometimes alternated driving the two -- the 90 LS one day and the 00 LS the next. It was fun to watch people slowly figure it out after they rode in the 00 LS ... I remember my mother saying something like "Wait a minute! Is this a different car?"

most other car models 10 years apart like your snow white twins doesnt fare near as well in asthetics and quality. you are a blessed man indeed. now you just need a 95' model to be the middle child!

:P

I have a 95 lexus ls 400. I purchased new distributors caps and distributor rotors for it. In my reading, one mechanical self help guru has said that I need to take out the radiator and rad hose to get good access to the the 2 distributors.

Do you guys think tht it is necessary to remove the radiator to do this install?

Thanks, Mike

Does the same mechanical self help guru also suggest taking the tires off the rims when replacing brake pads

All of the operation is performed from above,there is a fair amount of dismantling to get to them but nothing too serious.

I would also consider replacing the spark plug wires and plugs at the same time as it is easier than a second strip down later and the old wires are probably past their useful life if original and may be damaged on removal from the distributor caps.

Ditto. it is quite time consuming taking the covers off. and it can be certaintly tricky getting them back on due to the years of heat distorting the covers - at least for some of us im sure.

I would like to consolidate all the useful/correct procedures and match them with a slideshow/powerpoint guide. think that would fly??

YES!! That's a great idea. You didn't happen to take any pics last night to help replace the ones missing from one of those threads?

as a fact of matter i did! got some croppin and choppin to do w/ the pics. I will load them after i return from Wisconsin.

B)

Check out the two threads I linked here:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=372435

those links helped guide me through my flush lastnight! i really appreciate the insight - i had to search "power steering fluid" and "power steering flush" to find them -

I would like to consolidate all the useful/correct procedures and match them with a slideshow/powerpoint guide. think that would fly??

This would be a good procedure to have a video. Things like knowing if ATF is going to spray all over, how to catch it, where exactly to disconnect.

true, the ATF does seem to spray a bit, so a good size pan is needed.

pretty easy job to accomplish if you just go behind the wheel on the left side with it turned all the way to the right. the inline and return line (17mm) are pretty easy to get to. however, i could not budge the filter housing in either direction - (i read on a post here it's reverse threads) - not with any tool i had. so i just hoped for the best by flushing with new dexron fluid - go through the refill steps - and so far the steering is smooth as butta.

a short video or even a slideshow would prolly be sufficient just for the flushing/filter replacement - as far as the Air Control Valve replacement - i didnt check mine since i havent had any leaking or smoking issues....yet.

:P

hey guys, long time no post. been a very busy guy!

noticed the power steering getting a little tough - checked the reservoir, and we have black soot. i knew i should have changed it sooner. steps i have taken so far to remedy from reading the posts:

*jacked front of car up - turned left wheel all the way to the right.

*loosened the input/ return lines - turned wheels left to right several times pumping out more fluid.

now to take out the sylenoid filter - is it reverse threads?

*totally flush the system of old fluid by pumping through some new.

after i clean that and hook everything back up - i just fill the reservoir with dexron II/III and turn the wheels back and forth, and watch the fill level carefully.

((should i replace the air control valve? and if so - where and how much besides from the dealer??))

any more insight would be greatly appreciated.

by the way, i logged on 20k miles on the lex since the last post.

:D

Forgot to add my 0.2 cents

No need to apologize Marklouis - I enjoyed your post. No foul at all.

As much as bugs and large bits look bad on an air filter, it is the fine stuff that plugs them. Years ago I drove a Cummins powered truck in the summer, and noticed a lack of power one day. The air filter was covered in a fine brown powder, like wheat flour almost, from the dirt roads. I knocked it out for a while and removed pounds of the stuff. Perked up the engine right away.

Thanks SRK B)

good point. there was a good cloud of dust and pollen when i was blowing it through with the air compressor. and the bugs and small leaves really just "bug" me knowing they are in there. i clean out my trunk and hood grooves frequently from the dead bugs and leaves - its pretty nasty sometimes. <_<

I would have a grey beard too if I had to deal with the human race.

LOL - Very good one!!!

SRK - I must apologize for replying to your post with haste - it was the Redbull talking. (not a good thing at 10pm) i hope there is no foul amongst us. B)

i also didnt mean to get way off base from the original OP slvr99ls.

on a more positive spin, several people mentioned the air filter, so i decided to check my OEM air filter this morning before heading to work, and even though i just replaced it a couple months ago, it was full of summer bugs, small leaves and maple seeds! so i took it out and cleaned it with my air compressor and a high power nozzle. the amount of crap collection on it was unbelievable! note my intake is the original setup. spring and summer is more active with congestion in the air, and when i drive home in the evening on the back roads the bugs do come out hot and heavy, and they seem to find thier way to my air filter.

so if you havent checked your "new" air filter in a month or so, and your LS is your daily driver, give it a good inspection. for those of you with a modified intake, without the original shroud, your inspection and cleaning will be easier im sure! ;)

i was hoping my LS wasnt missing a front "bug/decontaminant" screen of sorts. could one be integrated??

Lex it up!

I am always amazed by how conjecture, opinion, anecdotal evidence, self-fulfilling prophecy, blind adherence, rationalization, and dogma can be passed off as science. Of course many people believe there is a grey-bearded guy who lives in the sky.

Change your sensors, avoid the Bermuda Triangle, practice safe hiking around sasquatch, and consult the stars for your future. Myself, I trust science.

Submitted respectfully,

SRK.

Even Einstein believed in a intelligent creator - I would have a grey beard too if I had to deal with the human race.

its good you have faith in science, I do as well and hope to learn as much as you guys. Your technical knowledge is off the scale! but please don't put down others opinions as if somehow they are beneath your own.

Also respectfully.

..so THAT'S what a converasation between two intellectuals look like B)

both curiosB and slvr99LS have good points and seem well experienced in the tech/mech/elect. fields, and im sure both have learned some of thier knowledge through trial and error, which has been my knowledge base for most of my life, and I will on occasion follow the advice of someone who i feel has been around the block a few times more than me, sometimes mislead, sometimes right on target. i will give anyone the benefit of the doubt if they are off 1% of the time, thier experience with a repair or replacement may be a different result from everyone elses - his results are different based on the set of circumstances that has taken place - that doesnt mean that he is off base at all.

...so if i experience the same result on my repair im going to assume this is a sure thing - cause im a trial and error kind of guy and its just a 2 step proccess. if my results are different and no change at all, im still on the plus side because im only out $20, did some 1 on 1 wrench time with the Lexus - always a good thing - and I have 1 more new part in my ride. now if it was a $500 part my tune may be different, but i dont see any harm in this repair. ;)

besides, we got off base from the OP! :P

One thing I can add is that if the coolant temp sensor has never been replaced... DO IT! That has a major effect on MPGs.

By replacing mine my daily AVG went from 17-18mpg to 20-21mpg

IMHO this is the best mpg improver mentioned. When I got my car, I ran a tank of gas through it and was averaging 7 MPG. I almost cried. The first thing I did was this little sensor. My mpg went from 7 to 12 with a lead foot and about 15-16 under normal driving. Throttle response also improved significantly. I got my Coolent temp. sensor from autozone for $20 and its already saved twice that much in fuel.

...Part # SU4007 from autozone. O.E.M.# 89422-20010

definately a worthwhile and easy replacement.

Hmm I didn't even consider the God awful art of "hypermiling"

I wouldn't be shocked to see 35mpg if you did THAT.

But from just !Removed!-footing your LS you WON'T get 35MPG... That's 787.5miles to my 22.5gal tank for 35mpg.

if and when i get at least 500+ miles to my tank when traveling with a little left to spare, im a happy man. B)

Please fellas, lets not "Draft" behind 18 wheelers on the interstate

Not once did I say to draft, just be behind. I think Tailgating is the single most frustraiting thing one can do to the driver in front of them. Having the truck out there, as well as other vehicles around distrubs the air on the road you are travelling. The more disturbed, especially in the direction of travel, the better for your fuel economy for this aspect of the drive.

I didnt say you said to draft....in fact, i was not replying to your quote at all aarman. B)

Please fellas, lets not "Draft" behind 18 wheelers on the interstate. for one truckers really REALLY hate that, and big rigs are designed to stop quickly with a heavy load. if they have a reason to slam on the brakes, even your Bruce Lee reflexes will not save your LS transforming into an instant convertible, let alone take your head off. if you cant see the side mirrors of the big truck...back off or go around them.

its better to be safe and healthy than save a few dimes on gas...

...otherwise, i agree with those that want to save gas, just keep your foot out of it..eezy peezy...and good maintanance.

i average 21-24 mpg, within rush hour traffic and A/C on.