Marklouis

Cats don't really change sound much...

If you want it to be loud get full exhaust.

I was refering to the resonators being cut out, not the cats! I would never cut cats out... :) are the resonators useless in the LS?

Trans mount for $32 at Carson ;)

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...p;siteid=214915

Most awesome!! :) but i couldnt find the tranny mount listed. found the engine mounts in there for $90.

i love to save a buck or two anytime!

srk i dont know everything about engines (too much to know if you ask me) but i know the basics, charging system basics, engine function basics, etc. and i am not a noob i used to go by ko90ls but i forgot my password. recently i've been studying the honda b18a/b (stock integra engine) + vtech (any honda B series vtech head) mod and in my research there have been numerous warnings about the compression change if you add a vtech head with higher cylinder roofs then the stock unit. basically the stock Integra LS compression is 9.6:1 or something around that. the GSR and Type-R engines with vtech have higher compression 10.5:1+ (dont quote my numbers check yourself) but the lower compression engine (LS) can run fine on 87. the GSR is recommended on 91. if you add the vtech head on the LS block then you would need to either use higher octane fuel or upgrade the pistons to the stock GSR pistons, which are slightly longer than stock, to correct the compression diff. if not the you can blow your engine. but regular honda b16's can run fine on 87. i tend to agree with import tuner and like the way they preview parts run dynos and show the latest and greatest builds on exclusive cars.

Most everything you read in car magazines is based on some good knowledge but mostly trial and error runs. there was a article on a guy that tried to run a huge Quad turbo system on a Chevy big block - and the poor fella never got it to run - it would just sit there and crank. He did all the math, blue print, balance, compression ratio, and he was a MIT guy of some sort. it was just a nice conversation piece that he put $10k into - a good semester worth of college tuition today. the only way if you really want to learn the difference in regular and premium is to do your own trial and error experiment - I had no choice during the Fuel shortage we had 5 months ago, no one had Premium, only 87. so i put $15 of 87 in my LS400 with a bottle of high octane booster from auto zone, and there was still a lack of acceleration, and the mileage dropped - i drove like grandpa that week for sure. of course the flashpoint is different between 87 and 91 - and im sure the ECU compensates the difference and you kinda drive around with your car engaged in safe mode to prevent any (pre-det) damage. i also have a 69 mustang 302 4 barrel (no ECU here) that if i put premium in that thing, it will lack HP and Torque, because it was built (compression wise) with 87 in mind.

Go Longhorns! Thats for you ko90ls! Dem Buckeyes are goin' down!

Are you trying to gain Horse power in a cheap way?Cutting your cats is not a good way to do it. Just buy some HI flow CATS to replace your old ones. Anyway if you want to cut something off on your exhaust system cut the resonators off. They are right before your mufflers. And you will see better gas mileage and a small gain in horse power.

any change in the sound? better or worse? B) is there a write up or a step by step on this?? i wouldnt want anything on a car that was useless.

nice move on the expansion tank cap! i also have a 95 LS and its good to see others with 95's chime in on the club! Cheers on the cheap fix! have you tried reseting the Climate Control system by unplugging your bat for ten minutes or so? when you connect your battery back up and turn the key to the ACC, you can hear the Climate control do its Diagnosis thing. i found that helped mine out when i was experiencing problems with my Dual vent controls. hope this helps!

No Fear..was it a hard knock or a loud tapping noise? it may have been a fuel injector/s making that noise - given the time it sat and the frigid temps, your fuel injectors may have been slightly dry, and they needed the fuel to lubricate the pumps. no biggie, just next time it sits for that long, turn your key at least 3 times before cranking it to prime the injectors better. this is my best theory or .02$ worth. ;)

... American "pump" gas and race gas should be not be considered even remotely similar. The additives in 89, 91 and 93 kill power and performance in the process of preventing knock. Race fuel continues to make power as octane increases however more octane than needed will hurt performance and efficiency.

Lower octane "pump" gas should give better mpg and make more power. Sometimes this isn't the case for unknown reasons. Maybe the ECU over-compensates to control knock and retards the timing too much. I would not think the ECU in a Lexus would be so sloppy and deliver such poor spark control as that is usually reserved for American automotive engineering. Regular 87 octane should run the cleanest as it burns the hottest. Higher octane fuel will leave more deposits due to incomplete burn if too much octane is run. ...

I looked into things several years ago, and the above is pretty much the exact conclusion I came to as well.

So, when friends ask me for advice on this (as they often do after they've bought a new car and want to do what's best for it), I tell them that if the manual says their car works with 87, they might be doing worse with 91, even without considering cost.

Lexus LS400 of course may be different. So far, I just put in 91 in my '91 (not just because it's got a ring to it), since that is recommended, and I have not yet been convinced the engine management can handle 87 without problems, but for example ...

for my 1985 911, it requires 91 (92 actually, but can't get it), and being just old enough, the engine management can't accommodate lower octane. So if I drive aggressively with 87 in there I could damage the engine. In this case there is no option - I use 91. Once I filled up with 87 by mistake. I drove like an old lady for half a tank to protect the engine, then filled with 91. I noticed my mileage increased by about 5% for that half tank, but it's hard to tell if it was the low octane or the granny driving style that did it. To tell for sure, I'd have to drive granny style on 91, and I'm just not willing to do that. B)

for my wife's minivan, it says it will get 210 HP running on 91, 205 HP running on 87. Clearly 87 is OK, so we use that, giving up 5 HP for all the other benefits.

To potentially launch on another tangent, I never ever (now that I know) use ethanol. If nothing else, it has about 2/3 the energy content of gasoline, so if the fuel is 15% ethanol, it's like getting fuel with 95% (85 + 15*2/3) of the energy in gasoline ==> 5% loss in mpg. There are engine-life issues/doubts beyond mpg. If the fuel has ethanol in it, there will be a sticker on the pump saying so.

Ed

ethanol, hate the stuff...wish i knew who didnt add it to thier fuel. my gas mileage has dropped 7% since that's all i can find here in north alabama, the ethanol capitol, and who knows what it's doing to my internals in the engine.

Congrats!!! <_< ya buncha show-offs!!

I kid!

Hello fellow Bamian!

that sounds very interesting! i heard of Dupont making some sort of Teflon wax product for vehicles years ago, but never knew what came of it. Is teflon sprayed on just like a topcoat of clear, and will he have to tape off the glass and trim? if you do such a trick, please take some before and after picks. I know that a plane takes much more abuse in the sky over a course of time than a car on the ground would, so maybe the Teflon would last longer on your car? or is one year when the protective coating loses its quality??

Here is Batman filling up his new ride now...

From the Definition:

WD-40 is a fine product and has many uses, but it is not real contact cleaner. It leaves a sticky residue that can attract dust.

WD-40 should never be used in locks for the same reason. Locks should be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, allowed to dry thoroughly and lubricated with dry graphite powder.

Dont know if you can take the ignition out or not and clean that puppy, but i would do my best to get the combination of WD-40 and graphite powder out of there. maybe your key is worn down as earlier posted - is there a spare you can try? hope you get it figured out.

Hey,

If the vibration you are feeling is vibrating the whole cabin-- Like a vibration that causes the passenger seat back and head rest to vibrate, then you need to change the two engine mounts and the transmission mount. Not very easy but I did it. Took a whole day. Unless the check engine light is on it is highly unlikely that anything electronic/ignition is wrong. The engine computer in the 95 can be troublesome. It may cause jerky acceleration/deceleration/shifting. A big jerk can be felt letting off the gas at certain speeds and around the parking lot. It can also stall and have low RPM at Idle. Call around a junkyard for a revised ECU and install that. Get the ECU part number from lexus and do a google to see who has one. It has worked wonders for me. My 95 is so smooth now. I also changed all the suspension arms and shocks up front. Unbeleivable difference. Drum tight. Don't get carried away, but little things can get irritating in this car because you can feel and hear everything.

yo

Wow..we need to talk..you exactly described whats been going on with the jerking and low idle at times (A big jerk can be felt letting off the gas at certain speeds and around the parking lot. It can also stall and have low RPM at Idle.) - the check engine light is on, but only for a faulty o2 sensor right bank. i really did figure i needed to change the engine mounts and tranny mount, but the ECU i never would have thought! is this a common issue for the 95 LS? is there a repair procedure for the ECU maybe - like solder contact points or something? Yoichisoma you have really made my day thanks so much!

I have an Actron OBD II AutoScanner CP9175. Pretty nice unit but I think it is post 1996 cars only. Check it out:

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9175-AutoSc...4207&sr=1-1

The problem with that scanner is it is not CAN approved and will be junk if the perons ever gets a newer car...

A Code Reader can be used to read and erase diagnostic trouble codes as well as other additional features depending on the tool. These tools work on all vehicles 1996 and newer. All Actron Code Readers are CAN compliant.

Now, if you are really into cars and what is going on inside the engine, check out this tool. Very neat. You use your computer to show a virtual dashboard of

all kinds of info. Its costs more but could be a fun toy!

http://www.autotap.com/

Thanks for the link - that is most awesomness - yes, i would like a PC capable reader cause i like to know details, just got to save up some pennies and ask for gift cards for christmas.

I also have a 95 ls and i havent come across such a strange issue - heres what you can try, I know that you cannot turn the key to lock if the shifter is in drive - it has to be in park for the key to turn to the lock position. when you have the key in the crank position, shift out of park and then back in park, holding the brake down at the same time of course - and see if it turns to lock then. also try turning your steering wheel back and forth slightly also while trying to turn your key to the lock position. to the best of my guess, there must be a short somewhere thats not allowing you to take your key out while in park, some others will Chime in as well that can help.

please post back your findings. :)

B) This is what she looks like at a 2" drop!

you are absolutely correct - i need to test the coils to see if they are within specs and replace if need be - thanks!

Did they specifically ask the Dealer for PA? is it a Lexus dealership? if so, i would say the dealer needs to correct the issue somehow - Lexus should work with you/them on this.

CAN approved....so look for one that is CAN approved? - because i will be getting my wife a newer Lexus soon...

Thanks for the QR! I'm sure that would work on a 95 LS - i could only try and see, a special adapter may be needed...i will post my findings in December.

there are also hard rubber spacers that you can insert in the Coils to stiffen them up as well - you can get these at any auto parts store i believe.

I want to purchase a OBD II reader so i can check for codes on my Lexus and also the rest of my family's vehicles..does anyone have a suggestion on what to buy? ive seen them for anywhere at $40, $100 and up. about $140 will be my budget - i will be shopping around and will post any good deals.

I just experienced this issue in My 95, and topping off the radiator fluid has corrected the problem - thanks Python!

I had a code thrown at me Through OBDII reader stating the 1st oxygen sensor on the right bank needs checking/replacing. i will follow through and see if that stops the vibration.

Mine does the same thing in my 95 LS400 - i have to say that is one of the strangest features iv'e ever seen.

Hello all, fairly new member here. I purchased my 95 LS400 3 months ago - started noticing a vibration in the engine at 1500 RPM to 2500 RPM. changed Timing belt, plugs, caps,(i was very careful with the cam sensors) and rotors - reset the EFI and MAIN in the main fuse box under the hood - the issue has subsided slightly, but you can still feel the vibration in the engine at the same 1500 to 2500 rpm ranges - question is does the timing need adjusting any,and if so how to do it? i'm thinking the 95 up LS400's were self adjusting on timing, but i thought i would ask the experts first.