sc400InTraining

Dude....Condensation is everywhere...its like a ninja...only...

Your local Advance Auto Parts or Auto zone should have them thats where I bought my replacements for a reasonable price and also you can borrow their loaner kit when I say borrow I mean you do actually pay full price for it but return it with in 45 days and you get refund for it just ask for loaner kit and tell them for what job (i.e. changing out o2 sensors) Also from my own expeirence your going to need something to give you some leverage on getting those bolts off like a pipe(litteraly something like a pipe) to extend the radial turning motion from the center which is where the unscrewing of the o2 sensor is happening (Family Guy Quote(Quagmire's dad gets a s*x change: "Man, that thing was on there" LMAO)

If you need to find out and see how to get to the o2 sensors just wetware hack a meachanic that you never used before and will never use again for a while, here's how:

1: Take car into shop

2:converse [

You: 'I have a problem'

Mechanic: 'What is it'

You: 'I have to show you exactly Im bad with words and descriptions, would you mind jacking off, I mean jacking the car up for me' (say this line exactly so they suspect anything unusual (swallow your pride or your money your choice)

Mechanic: 'Ok'

2. the car is now on the jack and you both are under the car looking at 'The problem'

Mehcanic: 'Ok, so show me this problem your having'

You: 'Well my friend says he thinks there is something wrong with my o2 sensors but I don't know where they are or how to get to them'

3. Mechanic points to where they are located and the bolts to unscrew to get to them.

Mechanic: 'The o2 sensors are here but what kind of problem is your friend talking about '

4. You got the info and see where they are now to exit

You: 'Psh I dont know lemme come on him, I mean come back with him, he can explain it better'

Mehcanic: 'Ok, c ya in a bit'

wetware hack complete now you know where the o2 sensors are and how to get to them

Dont feel sorry for the mehcanic he probably just charged someone's 17 year old daughter 100$ for an oil change on a honda accord.

FREE WEEZIE !!!!

yo sup dude (KISS RULES!)....

Im not sure if this pertains to your engine spec seeing as how its a vv but for the v8 high idling has to do with to much air coming from the blower fan in the A/C if I recall correctly from previous trouble shooting start with that search around the forums for A/C problems or my handle 'sc400intraining' and I might have a post on reading problem codes from the Climate Control system (A/C), if I dont have a post on how to go about doing this someone else might just be patient on your digging around for info.

Whatever help I feel like giving I will but all in all you need to do the majority of the work

Dude that sucks...same thing happened to me a couple of times this is what is referred to as the 'kill switch' which goes in effect when your alarm system 'senses' an actual illegal entry into the car so even if an intruder turns off the alarm they still wont be able to drive off with it, leave the car disconnected from the battery for at least 10 min and let all the stored settings which are held by the electric currents in certain parts die out and then reattach the battery this is a universal fix that should work for what ever alarm system you have.

Ok so here is the solution to this problem after some troubleshooting on my part, after I was having this problem:

Car: 92 sc400

From the begining..

Problem: My car when I first turned it on would not allow me to shift out of park so I would have to use the shift overide button, as well when I would put it in park and get out of the car I couldnt get the key out after turning the engine off, so to get the key out I would have to disconnect the battery negative terminal from the car to kill the power to the ignition solenoid which holds locks the key in place.

Solution: The problem was not the shifter solenoid and there is no such thing as a shifter relay but their is an ecu/ecm which controls the signals between the shift lock solenoid and ignition solenoid and the shift lock switch which was the root of the problem.

so the thing is when you hear that clicking sound when you depress the brake its your shift lock switch stuck in one postion (I will refer to it as pos.A), which under normal conditions gets set in pos. A, when you put the car in park however if the shifter is in any other postion and and your shift lock switch is still in that pos. A then thats the brake letting up on the lock of the shifter so it will actually shift (hence the name "shift lock swtich")

Ok now suppose your shift lock switch is in the opposite postion (I will refer to it as pos. B) this is what tells the shifter ecu/ecm to tell the ignition solenoid to 'lock the key in' so to speak while you are driving under normal operation circumstances. Also if the shifter ecu/ecm is reading a pos. B from the shift lock switch and the car is in park it will not send the current to the shifter solenoid to let the shifter shift out of park,(Just to make this clear the shifter not the transmission)

For the shifter solenoid to recieve a current it needs a signal from the shifter ecm/ecu which the shifter ecm/ecu will only send if the shift lock switch is in Pos.A

That is where the shift lock overide button comes into play in case something like this happens so troubleshooting and service is still possible (Toyota engineers: 1pt, Toyota critics: 0pts)

The shift lock switch is located under the console where the shifter is to the right it is a black plastic rectangle with 3 wires protruding from it leading to the shifter ecu/ecm the shift lock switch is moved from Pos. A to Pos. B mechanically by the motion of the shifter shifting from park (Shift Lock Switch Pos. A) to the other gears (Shift Lock Switch Pos. B) The shift lock switch, shifter ecu/ecm, and shiftlock solenoid have nothing to do with the transmission only the shifter itself interacts with the transmission.If a mechanic tells you other tell him that sc400intraining said "wakka wakka flakka wakka wakka, sorry my stealership is a little rusty" (let that sit you will get it later)

Ok now that I have explained that here is the reason for my shift lock switch being not being mechanically switched by the shifter:

The plastic binding it to the shifter broke off so there was no mechanical contact between shifter and shift lock switch. So for now I just keep the shift lock switch in pos. A and deal with the clicking sound from the brake if I left it in Pos. B it would lock my key in after turning the car off and i would have to press the shift lock override everytime I wanted to shift out of park.My permanant fix will be bonding it back on using some epoxy(super glue on Arnold's steroids lol) from home depot the kind that is especially for plastic.

Resources:

92-00 sc400 repair manual

Brain

small bit of knowledge on how electical and mechanical parts work together

Google

Locations:

shift ecu/ecm in front of shifter (12 o' clock)

shift lock switch right of shifter black rectangle box looking thingy with three wires protruding from it (3 o clock)

shift lock solenoid to the bottom left of shifter( 6 o' clock)

Disclaimer: Not a mechanic just a broke guy with a brain and the internet...

if i need to clarify anything just lemme know...and I will post some picks of the parts when I put down this bong I mean...

Hey I'm having this same problem and I just wanted to add that if you ever have a problem taking the key out while in park just disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and the key will come out. Just wanted to throw my 2 cents about that before someone goes throwing in a bunch of graphite into their ignition.

i would have searched on this before asking, but the retarded search function wont let me search with 4 characters or less, so 'fob' was unsearchable. ANYWAY...i have a 94 sc300, and was wondering if it came stock with a key fob? im inclined to think it has, because there is a switch built in under the dash that disables remotes, and it looks factory..secondly, i just discovered last week my car has a factory alarm, when somehow the security featured was engaged and i tried to close the hood, it triggered some switch which set the alarm off.

i went on ebay to check for fobs, and it appears 95 is the first year that it was offered..so....what gives?

95 was not the first year. I have a 93 sc300 and it has one. Its my understanding that all sc300's and 400's came with fobs built into the orginal key when they were sold new. I have mine, but something was messed up with my keyless entry system. Goto best buy and get a viper keyless entry system installed $139 no other relays are needed and your alarm will arm and disarm with the lock and unlock buttons on the viper remote(as well as lock and unlock your car wow!)....or you could go get a quote from lexus and depending on whats wrong with your system for 700-1000 bucks like they told me haha

i called up the lexus dealer and as it turns out, mine didnt have a fob (according to him) rather just the master key had a button for the door locks, which i guess automatically tied into the alarm, i dunno...but yeah, the key itself was like 225 bucks plus 65 to program it i think? i passed. but viper huh? i may check that out, it sure would be nice to not have to mess with the key to lock and unlock anymore. :)

Be very careful dude if you with an alternate fob not factory because you can mess around and disable you power windows because current flows from the theft deterrent ecu built in to the car to power window system if your car isn't wired properly you could be in for a headache like I am right now with the ultra alarm system. Ill post my findings soon as I fix it though.

Purchased 92 sc400 for my daughter and am slowly catching all the bugs. Latest is that the lock switch on both doors only unlocks and does not lock. She has to manually lock both doors. Any help would be apprecisted.

do you have the original key with the lock and unlock built in or do you have an alternate alarm system with no button on the key

I have an ultra alarm setup in my 92 sc400 but im having electrical problems at the moment with the defogger and windows. For Example the windows dont wanna roll up or down but you can hear the master switch making noises like it wants to works, you may be thinking what does that have to do with the alarm but for power to get to the power windows it goes through the theft deterrent ecu. The wireless antenna for the theft deterrent ecu is the same wire as the rear defogger, so when I have the rear defogger on the master switch dosent work period (the noise it makes when it tries to work) so if you do get a alternate remote alarm and not the factory which is built into the key be careful how you wire it. The only thing that really works is the lock and unlock and the ignition kill if the doors are open with out the disarm signal. The ultra alarm was already setup in it when I bought the car and im hoping i can fix that bull$h%t.But yea just giving that heads up if you do an alternate method

I have a 92sc400 with 123,000 miles on it was driving on the hiway i let off the gas and the car stalled, it will start but won't idle unless u hold your foot and the gas, cel and trac light came on i tried to check codes TE1 and E1 (diagnostic) and the engine light just flashed repeatedly non-stop, am i doing something wrong? i want to check codes before i get it towed to the shop. thx

I have the solution to your problem just look through my posts on this forum The name i Posted it under escapes me

I've been told that to change the plugs on the 2jzge you have to remove the intake manifold? Anyone know any good shortcuts or tips about this?

O.K. im gonna help you out since most of the more senior members are sick of these kinds of questions.

Back when I had to change my spark plugs for the 92 sc400 I ran into a jam or two (just because of mechanics trying to rip you one when they would work on it) First off there are no shortcuts to getting around that air manifold connecting to the intake it MUST come off I had to use a crow bar to get mine off but from other people that I talked to they usually just did it by hand and it slipped off. But for some odd reason mine wouldnt so easily. However be careful if you do have to use a "non-official" tool like a crowbar and also the last spark plugs toward the windshield of the car are a !Removed! to get a socket too so make sure you have an extending piece.The plugs on the other side are a breeze to get too. Also remember to use sockets that are for changing plugs a.k.a they must have those rubber boots in them and remember to check that they are still there after installing each plug in, when I was changing mine the boot kept getting stuck to the back of the plug so there was a lot of tighten-untighten-tighten-untighten-tighten going on. Also try not to do it on a windy day where debris can get blown into the holes where the spark plug goes those tiny leaves can quickly *BLEEP* you off to the max if they get caught in there, believe me I know all these little hazards and tricks from what was suppose to be a 1-hour job that took nearly 36 hours(beer and bong breaks included), all because I didnt have this information (and because first time I ever changed my own plugs) Hope this helps

Ok so I went through and cleaned the cam sensors and now I'm getting spark on all cylinders. This brings me to my next problem. The fuel pump does not come on when I turn the key. It works when I jump it through the diagnostic connector but does not work otherwise. And the car still will not start even with the jumper wire in place. I opened the line and there is plenty of pressure. Has anyone dealt with this before?

I have just look up my name and look through my posts for the solution it should be my most recent topic that your looking for. It gives details on how to fix the problem your having

Hey I want in this action too, can I get the Driver side window regulator and window motor send me a response :)

Hey guys this is an update to a previous post i had about fixing my idle probllems I could'nt remember the name of the topic so i started a new one so it would be easier with other guys to find when they put in the search terms for this particular problem.

Ok so the car (1992 sc400, 236,000 miles) use to crank and start up fine then would die on me a little while later after driving it. Then eventually it would crank but wouldnt start. And eventually it got to the point where it would not even crank. I was doing everything I could based on my self diagnosis. I ran check codes and they gave me bad o2 sensors, replaced them still nothing checked all the fuel points from fuel rail to fuel pump, ecu, etc nothing, changed spark plugs checked the timing belt for tear and made sure the teeth were properly placed, nothing So finally I said "F**k this bull sh*t, but I still love you baby". And took it to a shop called Auto Man down here in raleigh North Carolina they specialize in honda and toyota and their luxury alter egos. It turned out my throttle body was broken/bad and so they ordered a new one (used) for about 150$ I think its about 1375$ at the raleigh dealership. OK so that fixed the no cranking, no start problem but now the car is idling to low which was causing the car to cut off on me, essentially the problem was that I had a bad engine ecu. Basically that ecu was'nt communicating properly with the ICV and other parts that handle the air getting to the engine so my car was getting 'choked out'. They ordered me a new one for about 125$

and now the car starts up almost immediatly. and is back to original condition before the problem started. the total cost was 600$ parts and labor and the 60$ diagnosis fee.

However i could have saved about 200$ or more doing the labor my self. but they had to figure out the ECU was bad after replacing the throttle body and so I didnt wont to take the car and be on my own and find out there was something else and keep taking it back and forth and getting recharged for diagnosis fees, especially since I was completely lost to start with. so its drivable but not ready for showing off in the downtown streets, my rpm gauge needle dos'nt work and I got a cylindar not performing to well and causing my whole car to shake putting the engine under greater stress then need be but those I can handle on my own... Aww yess the sweet beauty of knowing your not done yet, life is sweet :D

Hi, I am Hasan Indian, living in KSA. I have 1994 Lexus GS 300. My car won't start in cold weather it took 15 to 20 seconds after keeping the key in start position.Technician told have to change fuel filter, I replaced the filter but the problems continues. Itried to pull OBD codes through connecting jumper wire with TE1 and E1, transmission light was flashing 3 times and pause again one time flashed then a long pause. I am very far from the city, here the toyota dealer couldn't find the problem. Recently I changed the transmission filter and fluid, my mechaing filled the Ac Delco type ( H ) III instead of type T. I also clarified with the toyota mechanic he told nothing will happen with this oil. I will be very thankful if any one help me to find the solution.

regarding you obd code that seems like code number 31, so now if you try to find a service manual for your specific model you should find out what that code stands for and how to fix the problem. As for the rest of your questions im not sure seeing as how your car is a GS model and not an SC model.

How many miles are on your SC400?

[/quote

it has 227,000 miles on it

so this is intended for people with idle problems to help them get started on fixing the problem. IN NO WAY AM I CLAIMING TO BE AN EXPERT i just wanna contribute to the forum:

I have had problems with idle issues sometimes when I come to a complete stop my car turns off, or when I finish a sharp turn it will cut off. sometimes it will start up other times it wont but it always starts the next day. Next I take a paperclip and bridge te1 and e1 pins on the diagnostics thing under the floor mat to the left on the drivers side its gray and says diagnostics you should figure out how to bridge the pins once you open it. once bridged turn the ignition to on but dont start the car. (note: if the check engine light came on once before but isnt on now the codes will still be stored as long as the battery wasnt disconnected in the time period between the c.e.l. coming on and off) count the flashes for the code and what I got was 21 and 28 which are main 02S sensor and heat . check vaccum hoses and evry deal wit air

Yeah if your going to replace/look at the fuel pump the car will need to be lifted. Just a FYI if you do change the fuel pump out *REMEMBER TO DRAIN* the gas tank first.

well actually you wont need to lift the car you just need to take the back seat out of the car and it the fuel pump will be located at the top center where the back seat use to be. There is a wire and about 10 screws that hold the fuel pump in place. But yeah you will have to drain the tank first to take out the fuel pump

yo whats goin on people,

ok so im driving down the street and all of a sudden my car just stops running( engine light has been on for a month before all this went down) ,however the radio and lights stay on and everything. At first i thought it was the lack of anti-freeze so i put some in and it starts up, COOL!!. The next day im driving down the street again same thing happened again and i do the same thing this time it dosent start, NOOO!!, however it does crank (just wont stay started) so i wait a while then crank 3 more times and got the idea to push on the gas as soon as it cranks, BOOYAAA!!, it worked. Ok so i have been having this problem for days now but no money for a mechanic to diagnose. Anyone have any ideas

P.S.

Everytime the car cuts off it only happens if i come to a stop but only happens once in a driving session (3-12 mile drives)

Hey guys there is an interesting posting on affordable lexus car parts for sale on craigslist in the raleigh area under auto parts for sale. they also seem pretty cheap for being new parts as well. I sent the guy an e-mail not to long ago and he seemed pretty legit on the whole deal he even sent me pictures on the condition of the parts before if i actually wanted to buy, i had to tell him no because im strapped for cash :( "its all good i understand you just wanting to see if the offer is real let your friends know about the sale"

was basically his reply. Just thought you guys wanted to know about it

hey everyone i have a few new issues and concerns of mine to present for analyzing.

* I am worried that my automatic transmission is on its way to failing since as i approach a stop, everyone in the car can feel the transmission THUD out of gear as we come to a stop. If this transmission fails i would be very interested in replacing it with a manual tranny but i have no idea how much it would cost. so if anyone has any idea what the whole procedure of putting a new manual transmission would cost me please let me know!

* I am also thinking i may have some warped rotors. Every time the car is in reverse and i put the brakes on, i feel another THUD of contact from the brake pedal engaging something. this only happens in reverse? because going forwards produces no noise what so ever. also, if i am in place or barely moving (BACKWARDS) if i pump the brake pedal, the whole car seems to pitch and lean and react to my pressing the brake pedal. LOL WHAT IS GOING ON?

please anyone with any thoughts share them!

I don't know if this would help but check out this website it may provide some useful information:

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6...swap/index.html

i have a 92 es300 and a 96 sc300 can i swap any parts from my es to my sc??

I recently asked this question. Your best be is to get parts from a 94-96 toyota supra. Out of expeirence from doing this the control arms are a definate. look up iron toad online they are really a dealership located in penn. but they give good prices and you can trust them. They have my approval from when I would have had to pay over 2000 in parts if I would have used lexus parts, but instead I used the supra parts and saved close to 1000. They definately have my seal of approval. I think they 're website is www.1sttoyota.com but im not sure.

why dont you just try putting leather covers over them, or looking for a leather repair kit. Although thats just if its a cosmetic problem. :D

where is the best place to buy one. i'm in arkansas and there are virtually none around town.

I would recomand some of the more wealtheir cities in California like Los Angeles or Pacoima and Studio city, and north of there. I bought my sc400 from a guy in pacoima and he kept the car in real good shape the engine runs like it came off the lot.

o.k. so how about Im a U.S. citizen with a 92 sc400 and I want to use some suspension parts like the sway bar and control arms from a 94 soarer and put them in my lexus is it possible and if so would it be worth it as far as performance and handling and also price