Alexander the o.k.

Paralysis

Excell

Simpson

Well...here goes..... fingers crossed...

Disconnect the neg. cable for 20-30 seconds. This will clear all codes and reset anything that is not fried. Reconnect to correct terminals, and try again. Post back if it works this time. Starter solenoid or a fuse may be fried if it does not even crank. Tell us what it does once you crank it.

Gold

Agree w/Tom. Do a diagnostic. What it will show is that you are low on refrigerant. The refrigerant is the carrier for the oil. The compressor needs to stay lubed. Hence, low gas= low or no oil to compressor = burnt compressor. Do not run it til it's recharged. That charge will carry oil to the comp. Good news is, you can get some gauges and a can of r134 at any autozone and save 100-300 dollars by recharging it yourself. Only add to the low pressure side, or the larger diameter line. The one thats cold. The smaller line is high pressure, and the can may EXPLODE if you attempt to charge that line. AVOID THE HIGH PRESSURE LINE. Look for the port up high on the passenger side firewall on the fat line. Put a gauge on it first to see current pressure with ac on. My guess is it is near 0. Charge until you're at about 25-35 pounds pressure. Do it slowly, as dumping it in as a liquid will 'slug' the compressor. Should take about 5 minutes per can. You will need to address the leak. Chances are the leak is in the evaporator, which is under the passenger side dashboard. You do NOT want to pay to have someone pull apart the dash to get at it. What you want to do is google pro-seal, by Cliplight. Before you add the sealant, you MUST dry the system of moisture or it will not work. Google Cryo-Chem DRY_PACK. This post is by george goble who is a facinating guy. http://yarchive.net/ac/cryo-silane.html Invented autofrost and got it approved by the EPA, (no small feat) and then patented. With Perdue Univ. I believe. The problem is anything they sell must be bought by an EPA certified tech. Tell your tech to go there and buy a can of the chemdry stuff, add it, then add the sealant, and you should be all fixed up. Oh, and replace all O-rings.

Hey Blacktop, You callin' me a wimp? ;) Thanks for the props, but I'm going to hold back a bit. Going to investigate another way to post pics without the 3rd party hosting deal. If I can't find a way, then maybe post very cautiously, like only from .edu sites.... Not. Keep it going man. Great job, BTW. I enjoy the effort.

Stretch

Thanks for the post smooth1. I appreciate it. Sorry about that re-direct thingy. Not my intention at all. I am now a little paranoid about participating in this great game, and will not be posting here much from now on. Thanks for keeping this a place where we all can go and be cozy. I look forward to it almost everyday.

Only 25 to be produced? 750 horses? Wow! Now that's getting esoteric on your a$$. :) Good find E. http://cardealerforums.com/car-industry-ne...lcon-coupe.html Here's a video from Stola: http://www.stola.it/en/video.php

Well my friend, you've either got stones made out of Titanium, and like Superman, don't mind being kicked there once in a while, or you live with some very honest, and honorable women! I need to move closer to where you are, as there is a bit of a shortage of them here lately. Or I may have to move to Krypton...

The fuel filter is made to be semi- permanent. Not the 1st thing I'd suspect. It can be replaced, but it is difficult. I have 255,000 on my 92 ls400 and have 0 fuel delivery probs, and never had any in the past. Original filter. What makes you think filter? It sounds electrical. Lexus has far more electrical issues than fuel delivery issues. You need to find out what that mech did to it. Get a full report, or report him him to the BBB, ASE or anyone else you can think of. He owes you a full report of work done.

Have you let her drive one? More specifically, an LS400? That will go a lot further than words in most cases. Buying a car is usually a deep visceral thing for a lot of people of the *ahem* fairer s*x, and words and research usually do not impress. Take one for spin! It WILL be the best car purchase you've ever made. Just have it checked out prior to signing anything. Good luck, and welcome to the LOC.

Hilarious JE, and right on the mark, at least around where I live. (Good luck with the wife or girlfriend tho. Or better yet, just don't let her see this thread... ;) )

It's sort of a catch 22. If you removed the battery terminal clamps to charge it, then you cleared any stored codes, or the 'mechanic' did when he messed with it. The only way to get new codes, is to be able to start, and run it long enough for it to generate a code. So. Catch22 there. It still could be as simple as the battery. Can you test it again to see if it holds the charge? Is it maintaining at least 11 volts? wire harness --You have to strip the wire harness down to individual wires and inspect each one, then re-connect each one if broken. Double check the harness. What happens when you crank it? What sound or action? It could be a bad coil. Disconnect plug wire and hold a 1/4 inch from metal frame and see if it arcs. Give more detail on what happens when you crank it. Also what steps the mech took. My guess is he screwed it up from a fixable condition, to a non-fixable one. Ask him what codes he pulled. This car has a 'limp home' mode, and it if you get it running, drive it as long as you can, to get any codes.

That was my 1st guess, given that the car would stall while driving. He's had enough guesses from his mech, tho. But, pulling codes is easy and the correct thing to do anytime your LS starts acting weird. "is there a process after an ECM is installed. Any help would be greatly appreciated"---- test the battery. It should hold no less than 11volts. If good, then pull codes. If not, take it to autozone and have them re-charge it. You can clear any stored codes by removing the Neg. clamp for 10-20 seconds. It could also be a coil, but then, I'd just be just guessing..... Post the codes.

The 1st thing I would do, is ditch your "mechanic". Have you pulled engine codes? Has your "mechanic"? That is the 1st place to start. If you don't know how, then go here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Post back what you pull. It should take no longer than 20 minutes. Also, there is a search function at the bottom of the page.

Apparently the legit looking image link I posted contained embedded code for a redirect to a non legitimate site. My apologies to anyone who saw that disgusting picture. I sure wish there were a way to prevent this kind of thing from happening in the future, but I guess there are no ironclad guarantees. Thanks mods, for seeing the problem. I guess it's all part of the Brave New World we live in. Sigh...