George_Jetson

I would remove the central door lock reciever, and remove the cover. Check for signs water intrusion or burnt components. Also inspect the wire harness.

Since the cel is on, it would be a good idea to read the codes.

P0300 is a random misfire, P0302 is misfire cyl #2, P0304 misfire #4, and P0306 #6. Purchase a can of Mass Airflow sensor cleaner and clean the airflow sensor. Are you using a aftermarket airfilter? Such as K&N, there may be too much oil on it.

I have a 2001 gs300 and about 6 months ago the a/c was working fine ,then sometimes I had to tun it on and off a few times to make it work until finally it stop cooling.The blower works but is just not cold air.I started to look in to it and found that the compressor clutch is working,it engages when is turn on,I check the pressure and there is no difference between the high and low sides I was getting about 125 psi on both sides.Any ideas?

Since you have confirmed that the compressor clutch is engaging, and there is no difference between the high/low side, you have a bad compressor. 125 sounds about right for the equalized pressure. So on the system will need to be flushed, the reciever will need to be replaced in order to clear the system of debris from the compressor. I would recommend taking this to a professional, as the procedure is beyond the scope of most home mechanics.

You may be able to the switch apart and clean it, if not try ebay, or your local wrecking yard for a switch

My son had a carfull of kids and after they left the front passenger seat would not go back. All other functions worked except going back. After 2 hours of playing with it and since it was all the way forward you could not get to the 2 bolts. So we finally figured out that there are 4 bolts that hold the seat to the frame, loosen them, slide the seat back and then got to the front two bolts. Could not find any loose wires and so we started manually turning the shaft and the seat came back. Then we noticed that on the front of the seat were two phillips screws that hold a plastic shield that covered the shafts the turns and moves the seat up and back. A socket set with a 12mm socket and an extension was all we need to manually get the seat back off the dash. At least it is back to a comfortable position and in my free time I can read more about what to check next.

Once you manually moved the seat back, see if it will move forward with the switch. If so the switch is bad. The seat has 4 dc motors, the switches that control these motors are double pole, double throw, center off. If the motor moves in one direction, but not the other, the the control switch is normally the problem. If you own a digital volt meter, you could measure the voltage to the switch. If not, if it moves in one direction and not the other, you have a bad switch.

You should not be driving this until you find out the source of the noise. Take it back and find out what the issue is.

One important point to remember if you do it yourself. NEVER let the caliper hang from the brake line. If you are changing the rotors, make sure that you use a piece of rope, or wire, and support the weight of the caliper. A go place to tie it to would be the strut spring. The brake lines are not made to support any weight.

Are you checking the codes? If it is a bad coil the miss will move, but you will not know that unless you read the codes. As far as swapping injectors, swap 4 & 6.

I tried to access the codes by putting a bridge wire from te 1 to e 1 and the check engine light did not blink

I believe most 94 es300 are OBDII, try taking it to the local auto part store and asking them to read the codes. One other thing you could do is listen to #6 injector, take a long screwdriver. Hold the handle to your ear, and place the tip on the body of the injector. Compare the sound that you hear to injectors #2 & #4. It is possible that you will hear a difference. You should be able to hear the injector open/close.

Are you checking the codes? If it is a bad coil the miss will move, but you will not know that unless you read the codes. As far as swapping injectors, swap 4 & 6.

Since this year has direct fire, try swapping the ignition coils #4 & #6. I would also check compression and then replace the plug. If this does not help, then I would look at the injector.

Press and hold the front AC OFF button for 4 seconds. The AC filter RESET should appear on the multifuntion information display.

02 ES has an interference engine. If the timing belt breaks the damage could be very costly. Better safe than sorry.

My wife's 99 ES had the original timing belt in it until 2009 and 150,000+ miles (we bought it used and the original owner never changed the belt). So yes, they can last a long time but then again you are gambling.

I am surprised to hear that the water pump lasted 150K. My car is at 120K and I will push it out a little further.

You're welcome. As I said, the diagram was not too clear, I am glad to hear it was no problem.

The diagram that I have is not too clear, but it indicates that you slide the lamp assembly to the side (passenger) and then lift the rear up. Again it is not clear, it is possible that you slide it to the drivers side. Good luck

Are both front tires lifted off the grd? If the other tire is on the grd the sway bar could be lifting the other side up.

Is the CEL on? Have you checked for codes? How many miles is on the car, and how long have you had it? Have you inspected the hoses / vac lines under the hood? One of the first suspects would be the air/fuel sensors, or a leaking injector.

CEL is on, its my GF's car and she had the codes check awhile back and it came back as a bad gas cap. Car has roughly 160,xxx miles on it. She's had it 3 years.

I assume the code was for a small/large evap leak since there is not specific code for the gas cap. It sounds like the light has been on for a little while, that you did not fix the leak (I probably woul dnot have bothered myself). I would have the codes read again since if the light has been on, you do not know if there are any further codes. At 160k a good possibility would be fuel/air sensors, they are recommended to be replaced at around 80k. When they go bad the gas mileage can drop faster than Obamma's popularity. But do not assume that I am recommending replacing the sensors. You must first check the codes and them proceed. I do not believe in shotgunning when troubleshooting.

First you would want to see if there is a leak. Once you have determined if the system is leak tight, you will need to drain the oil from the compressor, change the acummulator and expansion valve. Flush the system . Of course you will want to replace any gaskets / orings that are at any fitting that has been disconnected (I would not bother replacing all seals). Add the appropriate oil, evacuate the system, and then re-charge. It is not very hard, but requires speciallized tools that are not practical to purchase unless you do a quite a few systems. You could find someone on craiglist or similar and work with them while they do your car. But for a beginner, it is not practical to do it yourself.

I converted my 93, and although it is not quite as cold as original, it does a good job cooling my car down here in Texas.

Did you compare the old strut to the new ones before you installed them, and did you make sure that both ends of the spring was properly seated in the pockets?

I believe that it is the sc where you need to pull the intake manifold to replace the starter. The ES starter is located in a more conventional location. Next time it acts up give the starter a "slight" hit with a hammer, it if starts up it is probably the starter. Anyone with basic auto repair skills should be able to change it in less than a hour. Just make sure that they disconnect the Neg terminal on the battery before starting. That way if they short the starter wires to grd there will be no problems.

code 21 is for the solar sensor, which monitors the ambient light in the passenger compartment. Code 23 is for abnormal freon pressure, (either too high, or too low). I would suggest checking the freon pressure, chances are that your pressure is too low. Has your car been converted to R134, or is it the original R12?

Is the CEL on? Have you checked for codes? How many miles is on the car, and how long have you had it? Have you inspected the hoses / vac lines under the hood? One of the first suspects would be the air/fuel sensors, or a leaking injector.

Ok I have sent you some cam install info, good luck

Sen me a PM with you email, I will send the section of the manual that shows the install procedure.

I do not understand, what do you mean by "preload"? Do you mean a valve adj?