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kino1161

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Posts posted by kino1161

  1. What's good to take off tabaccy juice?

    TOGWT post http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15808

    The problem is the clearcoat on the lip of my wheel has started to peel. The wheel is chrome but the lip of the wheel is polished alloy. It is a 3 piece wheel (Enkei Aegis). Can I fix this myself? A local shop quoted me about $100 to fix just the lip of the wheel.... Suggestions/Recommendations?

  2. The clear coat on one of my wheels is peeling. It is only on the lip of the wheel. I have the Enkei AEGIS (3 piece wheel) on my car. The wheel itself is chrome and the lip is polished alloy. Can I fix this problem myself? What can I do? A local shop told me about $100 to fix the clearcoat on just the lip of my wheel. Please help. Any suggestions/recommendations???

  3. You got it, the new cable will come however you buy it. So make sure you get one long enough, with a battery terminal on one end and a ring terminal or bolt lug on the other end. Make sure you cut the old cable after the terminal or bolt lug, on the side going to the battery. You have to be able to bolt up the part of the old cable running to the engine with the new cable running to the battery. B)

    Thanks, Turbo! :D

  4. You have to bolt it to the other cable as the cable continues further along under the engine. You're just cutting off the bad part from the frame up, where it's bolted.  I think the spray is fine as long as there is NO CORROSION in the wire. If the wire in question is full of white powdery corrosion it's time to replace. You could use the spray on the new cable to prevent corrosion on it. <_<

    Thanks, a lot! So, it is pretty easy?

    Yep, just make sure to get the right length and to cut the wire right after where it bolts to the frame. So, you'll be removing the old cable with nothing on one end and the battery terminal on the other. :)

    Thanks Turbo and Moreno. OK. So, I am going to follow the wire to where it bolts to the engine. I will then cut off the wire at the bolt. I should be able to loosen the bolt and attach my new wire??? Then, attach new wire to battery (with clamp on, of course). ???? Does the wire come with a clamp already attached? Seems easy, if my steps are correct. :D

  5. You have to bolt it to the other cable as the cable continues further along under the engine. You're just cutting off the bad part from the frame up, where it's bolted.  I think the spray is fine as long as there is NO CORROSION in the wire. If the wire in question is full of white powdery corrosion it's time to replace. You could use the spray on the new cable to prevent corrosion on it. <_<

    Thanks, a lot! So, it is pretty easy?

  6. You'll have to remove the battery, follow the ground cable down to where it is bolted to the frame. You'll have to cut the cable neatly there. Run the new cable down to the frame and bolt it with the other cable there. Reinstall battery, with new ground. :P

    Turbo,

    Why do I have to bolt it with the other cable there? I can't just take it off?

    What do you think about Bartkat's response to clean the wire end and terminals and spraying that stuff on there?

  7. You can get premade 4 or 2 gauge ground cables at checker's or most auto parts stores or you can got to a stereo shop or you can make your own. If corrosion is constantly building up you may have a leak around one of the battery terminals. So you may have to get a new battery. Get an OPTIMA RED TOP if you don't have any stereo equipment or acc. A BLUE TOP if you do have stereo equipment.  I would still replace the ground with the larger gauge as it will help the car to work better by carrying more current. Also it will give a better ground. <_<

    I just purchased a new battery about 3 weeks ago and the corrosion is still coming back! How can I see the corrosion on the cable?

    $100!!!!! I was told this is an easy thing to do! Can anyone tell me how to do it?

  8. :D
    Is it a hard job to do?  I heard it was rather easy.  Your opinions/suggestions/how to's?  I have a 1996 GS 300.

    wHICH ONE are you replacing? If it's from corrosion you may not need to replace the whole thing, just strip it back past the corrosion. The ground is the easiest to replace. Go with a larger gauge like 4 or 2 gauge if you do replace it. :D

    First, Thanks, for your quick response Turbo! I think it is the negative that I am replacing (the wire on the right if you are standing in front of the car, if everybody's else car is like that). It is the wire that doesn't have the extra stuff on it. Well, I kept having a lot of corrosion build up on the clamp causing my car not to start at times. So, I changed out the clamp and the corrosion still builds up! So, I am assuming it is the battery cable that has corrosion in it. So, why the larger gauge? Which is the better of the two? Thanks!

  9. i took the ole PC to my buddies alloy Acura wheels this weekend, they had some oxidation (kinda foggy look) to them, as well as just an overall dull look,

    anyway they came out great and really shiny afterwards.

    i don't know what kinda finish he had on the wheels, ie clear coat, they were just regular alloys like mine...........

    don't know if that would work for you or not, but u might can give it a shot, the PC makes my wheels look brand new, and protects them as well, pretty cool.  <_<

    PC????

  10. B)
    My front driver side wheel has "splash" marks all the way around the lip of the wheel (chrome).  I wet my finger and tried to wipe off.  Nothing came off!    :censored:   I wet my finger and rubbed, again, real hard!  Nothing came off!  That is the only wheel with the "splash" mark.  What can I use to try and get the "splash" mark off my wheel?  Please help!

    It's probably dog pee.

    Are you serious?

    I'm telling mom, you ate dog pee B)

    Anymore suggestions, other than the baking soda/water? Please Help, if this doesn't come off, my wheel is ruined! :cries:

  11. My front driver side wheel has "splash" marks all the way around the lip of the wheel (chrome).  I wet my finger and tried to wipe off.  Nothing came off!    :censored:   I wet my finger and rubbed, again, real hard!  Nothing came off!  That is the only wheel with the "splash" mark.  What can I use to try and get the "splash" mark off my wheel?  Please help!

    It's probably dog pee.

    Are you serious?

    Yes I am. The old guy at the car wash showed me that on my wheel a long time ago. However, I forget what he told me to clean with. Maybe some baking soda and water would work.

    :angry: Baking soda and water, huh? Thanks, maybe I will try that. Anyone else have any suggestions? I am willing to try anything that won't hurt my wheels' finish.

  12. My front driver side wheel has "splash" marks all the way around the lip of the wheel (chrome).  I wet my finger and tried to wipe off.  Nothing came off!    :censored:   I wet my finger and rubbed, again, real hard!  Nothing came off!  That is the only wheel with the "splash" mark.  What can I use to try and get the "splash" mark off my wheel?  Please help!

    It's probably dog pee.

    Are you serious?

  13. Thanks, guys, I will make sure, but I sure wish I could purchase the OEM mufflers right now. :cries:

    OH!  OK.  Thanks, for the info.  So, you don't think there would be a problem if I got 2 mufflers from Meineke?
    YES, 4 mufflers! 2 in rear and 2 more in the mid. How do you think they keep the car so quiet, hmmm!  :lol:

    They're probably ok, if they have stuff that really fits the car and don't do a "shade tree" hack job on it. I'd sure check that out too.

  14. Turbo,

    Can you give me any suggestions? Please. Meineke said they would put 2 new mufflers on my car for $280. So, you think I will lose power if Meineke put on my mufflers? Give me some recommendations, please. Thanks!

    :whistles: Mine are just sitting, but they are attached to the whole catback assembly. I think shipping would be very expensive. Just got to midas or meineke. Or find some smaller shop thats real cheap. You really don't want to cheap out the exhaust, you can lose alot of power that way!

  15. There were no mufflers there. Can anyone else help me out here??? :(

    I have a 1996 GS300.  My 2 mufflers need replacing.  The Lexus dealership wants $638 for both.  Meineke wants $280 for both.  Anyone replaced theirs recently and have them sitting in their garage collecting dust and want to sell them?   :D   Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    If you were really that hard up for cash, and willing to accept used ones, you could always try a place like CLICKY

    It's a national network of auto salvage places and you just click on the part you want and it tells you instantly the places that have your car or part in stock, ready to go!

  16. Let me know what you come up with, please.

    I'm having the same problem on my 99 GS400. Replaced the battery 3-4 weeks ago and the problem went away. Now its back again. Go to start it and all you hear is click, turn key off and back on and she fires right up. Last weekend it did this and I put a Fluke 87 on my battery and turned it over. It started but the voltage dropped to 10.5 when cranking. I don't know if this is good or bad. If it is the starter how hard are they to change on a 99. When I look at prices for a new some say the intake may need to come off on some models and a water outlet.  Thanks.

  17. It hasn't happened again in about 4 or 5 days.....(just an update)...

    One of my battery connections is a little loose.  The clamp that goes on the battery is not clamped down very tight on the wire because I can wiggle the wire around in the battery clamp.  Maybe I will try and clamp down tighter to see if that loose connection is the problem.  No, I don't have an aftermarket alarm.  Thanks, guys, for your help.

    good advice, and I sure hope it helps!

    I'm have to go out on a limb though, and say that I think it's something different.

    it just seems too consistent in it's nature to be a connection, and the description of the problem is off IMO.

    I would suspect a solenoid to act like this, where it will click only, but not even attempt to turn over.

    I would suspect a loose connection to be a little less consistent. (again, just my opinion here...)

    now, I have to admit that the problem sounds like no other starting problem I've seen, so,.....I'm wondering if it could be the key?

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