kino1161

High is fine, low just allows it to get hotter. An air bubble can cause over heating as it's a pocket of air. How did the system get emptied? Is the cap bad? Is the top hose firm when running? becareful of letting that thing overheat too many times, the top and bottom tank are plastic and can rupture or crack. Is the fluid dirty or clean. Have you flushed it. if it overheats again turn the heater on max low to help cool the engine down.keep us posted. B)

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Turbo,

I don't know how it got emptied. (Maybe a leak somewhere?) How can I tell if the cap is bad? I will check the top hose when I go home for lunch. What if it is not "firm" while running? What do I do next? I haven't flushed it. So, if it overheats again, turn the temp all the way to 85 (hottest) and turn the level to low???

Next, do you think I need a new radiator after all those questions above? If so, is it easy to replace? :(

Did you turn the heater all the way up on low after changing coolant? If not you got air in the system.

B)

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No, but when I refilled it today, I turned the heater all the up on HIGH before I drove it. Did I mess up by turning it to HIGH?? Also, if I did have air, would it take from Friday evening until now for the "air" to effect the system?

Turbo, I knew I could count on you for some kind of answer. Thanks and please reply! :D

I have a 1996 GS 300. My car overheated on Friday. I refilled with coolant (it was almost empty) and it was fine the whole weekend. So, today, my car overheated again, but this time it kept overheating after about 5 minutes when I would "top off" the radiator. Please help! I need to know the cheapest way to get this resolved.

Turbo.... where are you!?!?!?!?!? :cries:

You could have just pulled the EFI fuse for 30 seconds rather than messing about with battery terminals, radio codes and pressing brake pedals. ;)

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Oh really? Thanks, Barber! I'll make a note of that!

Make sure you tap the brakes a few times with the neg disconnected, to drain any small amount of power stored in the caps. I don't think the radio code will even come up unless it's been reset by another owner to something other than the last 4 of the vin.  B)

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DC & Turbo... Thanks guys! It worked like a charm, not to mention you saved me money because I was about to go to the dealer!

My car overheated yesterday and made the "check engine" light come on. How do I clear out the "check engine" light? I have a 1996 GS 300. Thanks! Also, I don't have my radio code. How do I get that? Thanks, again!

  you just need an amp that has the i believe they are called digital outputs. 

There's no such thing <_< Amplifiers have only analog output.

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So..... splice into the amp speaker wires and run those to the new amp? I assume I then run a power wire to the battery? Anyone else?

I want to use my stock radio and speakers as they are. I just want to install an aftermarket amp with more watts. How do I disconnect the factory amp and wire the speakers and radio to the new amp? I have a 1996 GS 300. Please Help! Thanks!

ahhhh okie, what brand or do you have a link?

Thanks

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No certain brand just the ones that attach to the headrest posts........

is this the kawasaki model i saw at target? Seemed like a good deal but I didn't know kawasaki made electronics now LOL!

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No... Not the ones with the straps. The ones that attach only to the headrest POSTS. They sell them on Ebay.

I wanted to know if anyone has used or seen those headrest screens that DO NOT need to be modded into your headrests? They just clip on to the headrest posts. Your opinions? Thanks!

Turbo,

No, I haven't changed my rotors yet. So, do I spray paint the calipers or with a brush? I do use a High Temp paint, correct? I just bought new pads a month ago, I can't use those with new rotors? I have heard people say slotted are better and I have heard that drilled/slotted are better. What gives? Where do I put the anti-squeak gel? Oh.....the $50 is "in the mail"... :D THANKS!

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Primer first, then spray paint with a high temp paint, they do make caliper paint at most auto stores or maybe even walmart. I think I used engine paint. You can probably use the old pads if they're only a month old. I have drilled/ slotted. I think the slotted wear the pads a little quicker as the slots act like little razor blades, however they do keep the rotors cooler than just drilled. Anti squeak goes on back of pads.where it contacts pistons. <_<

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Thanks!

I though you already did fronts? It's the same way!

1) Loosen lug nuts

2) Jack up car

3) remove wheer

4) Remove 2 bolts holding caliper on

5) remove rotor. it will be tight

6) use 2x4 with hammer to free or loosen rotor by banging it from the backside( ok you pervs, get over it)  if it will not remove easily.

7) clean calipers

8) paint calipers

9) install new pads

A) use anti squeak gel

10) reassemble

11) pay me $50 B)

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Turbo,

No, I haven't changed my rotors yet. So, do I spray paint the calipers or with a brush? I do use a High Temp paint, correct? I just bought new pads a month ago, I can't use those with new rotors? I have heard people say slotted are better and I have heard that drilled/slotted are better. What gives? Where do I put the anti-squeak gel? Oh.....the $50 is "in the mail"... :D THANKS!

Can anyone give me step by step instructions on how to take my rotors off and put on new ones, front and rear? I have a 1996 GS 300. Thanks!

I changed by brake pads, but it still feels like my brake pads are worn when I press the brake pedal. You know the feeling you get when it is time to change your brake pads. Could it be that I need to turn my rotors? What does turning your rotors do anyway? Thanks, in advance.

Speedy dynamic <_< These should be fine as well, I used them on my nissan 300zx

Rotors

You'll need new pads as well.

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Thanks, again, Turbo!

Turbo,

Is that $139 for all 4 rotors?  Will they rust?  If so, how can I prevent them from rusting?  I can't seem to open your pic.  Also, any recommendations on rotors (not too expensive, of course)?  Thanks, alot!

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Yes + shipping of $19, Yes and NO, they will rust on the bare metal surfaces created by the brake pads wear on the rotor. The center or hub is coated and won't rust. You can stop rusting by driving then car and using the brakes. Check EBay for drilled and slotted rotors for GS300, that's where I got mine. <_<

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What brand did you get?

I have a 1996 GS 300.  I just wanted to take suggestions on which rotors (front and back) to get for my car?  I want to spend as little money as possible.   :D   Also, how (or what) do I make my brake calipers another color?  I want to make them red.  Do I have to buy new ones or how do I go about painting them (if I can)?  Any and All suggestions are welcomed.  Thanks!

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The key to a good paint job is preparation and more preparation. Unbolt the calipers. Clean the calipers with wheel cleaner or brake cleaber till they're pretty clean , then go over with a wire brush , avoiding any rubber parts. Wipe down with mineral spirits until clean. Use a high temperature paint, such as engine paint or purchase caliper paint. Paint with many light coats letting each coat dry ontil you get the look you want. Mask off with newspaper all area around where you're painting to avoid overspray. After you're donr you can go over with a clear coat and maybe purchase some good quality caliper decals off EBay that say LEXUS to further increase the kewlness factor. Install your new driled/slotted Rotors that you also purchased off EBay for $139 + shipping. Repeat 3 more times and you're done. Here's what I did on my Z and GS

B)

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Turbo,

Is that $139 for all 4 rotors? Will they rust? If so, how can I prevent them from rusting? I can't seem to open your pic. Also, any recommendations on rotors (not too expensive, of course)? Thanks, alot!

I know how to change front brake pads.  I just wanted to know if you do anything different when changing the rear brake pads (such as emergency brake, etc.)?  I have a 1996 GS 300.  Thanks!

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Your car has 4 wheel disc brakes, so if you can change the front, you can change the back. Its exactly the same procedure. You don't have to worry about the emergency brake.

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Thanks, tbone!

I have a 1996 GS 300. I just wanted to take suggestions on which rotors (front and back) to get for my car? I want to spend as little money as possible. :D Also, how (or what) do I make my brake calipers another color? I want to make them red. Do I have to buy new ones or how do I go about painting them (if I can)? Any and All suggestions are welcomed. Thanks!

I know how to change front brake pads. I just wanted to know if you do anything different when changing the rear brake pads (such as emergency brake, etc.)? I have a 1996 GS 300. Thanks!

Thanks, everyone!

I was of the same impression originally, but a former neighbor (and scrap yard owner) showed me how to do it. Given that, I would think the procedure should be similar for most vehicles.

Yes, it is inside the metal frame and it is a little tricky to get at (that might be a slight understatement). I'll try to retrace my steps, although it's been a while...

Power Window Motor Replacement Procedure for 1991 LS400

Of course, this same procedure should apply to 1990-1994 LS400...

1. Start by making sure the window is up all the way. If the window is down, some of the components you need to access will be sitting on the opposite side of the glass from you and impossible to get to.

2. Once you have the interior panel off, you have to then peel back the plastic covering, carefully.

3. The motor is actually mounted to the inside of the inner part of the door frame. I think there are 3 bolts that hold it on there. They are directly accessible once the interior panel is off. Loosen and remove these. You'll want to reach inside the door frame and hold the motor while you loosen those bolts to keep it from falling.

4. Now you should be able to easily move the retractor arm around enough to get it disconnected from the window. Be sure to hold the window when disconnecting the motor or retracting arm as it could fall from the up position once support for it is removed.

5. I apologize, but I don't recall if the retracting arm should be disconnected from the motor before pulling it all out, but I think I just pulled the retracting arm and motor out in one piece. Then just swap the arm to the new motor before re-installing.

6. On installation, you need to connect the retracting arm to the window first, I think, in order to make sure the motor is in the correct position when you bolt it on. Basically, you want to make sure that "all the way up" on the motor = "all the way up" for the window. Make sense? If not, it will once you get to that point  :)

If there is enough desire out there for help with this procedure, I would be willing to take my door apart and snap some pics. It shouldn't take me long to do that, I've done it several times at this point.

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So did you just manuever the motor until you could get it out of the inner door or did you actually have to take the inner door off?

I've replaced window motors and switches in my LS400 doors before. Yes, it is that simple IN THEORY, but it all depends on the situation. I cannot stress enough, BE CAREFUL about removing the door panel. I damaged a clip in my door panel and now the interior handle is forever loose  :cries:

I'll admit, when I replaced my window motors it was a slight challenge to figure out which nuts/bolts to loosen in order to get the motor disconnected from the arm and window. It's also critical to make sure it's all lined up properly on reconnect, but that's not too difficult. It only took a couple tries and I had it reconnected and working well. All said and done I think it took about an hour, but a good amount of that time was probably spent looking for tools... 

Good luck!

B)

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Thanks!

Yes, it shouldn't be to bad. Remove door panel , be very careful you don't break clips or handle surround. Unbolt motor, detach regulator! Install should be the reverse. <_<

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Is it really just "that simple"? If so, Thanks, Turbo!