kino1161
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Posts posted by kino1161
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Replacing your radio will make no difference in the power available to your speakers if you still run it through the factory amp. The Lexus factory amp uses line level inputs by the way.
If the radio is ok, replacing the amp will make some difference. Replacing the amp with a higher power model will most likely put stress on the factory speakers. Factory speakers generally cannot handle much more power than the factory amp can provide.
If you only have sound on one side of the car, chances are the amp is bad or there is a wiring issue. It is also entirely possible that the headunit is not sending signal to the amp on that side.
To improve the quality of the sound as well as the power, the best options would be to repair the stock system, or replace:
A: The amp and speakers
B. The amp, speakers, and the headunit
I forgot to say. The radio plays fine (on both sides) when the radio is playing, but when I play CDs, it only plays on one side. It used to play fine with CDs, but lately it has started acting up. I thought I had read on here somewhere that someone said that it was the stock amp getting wet from the trunk.
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To make my speakers sound better and the sound a little louder? How would it sound? Has anyone done this? I am not looking for a "booming" system, I am just tired of one side of the car playing and the other side is not. Is that due to our stock amps being "crap"? OR, can I just replace my radio with something like a 200W radio and that will make a difference? Thanks! I have a 1996 GS3.
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My bad. Yes, off they go to replace the rotors. Something had me thinking about just the pads and not the rotors.
Thanks, guys!
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I am in the process of changing my front rotors. I took the wheel off. Now, do I need to take off the assembly like I am changing my pads or do I need to take the "whole" caliper assembly off? If I need to take the "whole" assembly off, I can not get those 2 big bolts (not the ones holding the brake pads in, the other bigger ones back there) off! What do I need to do? I already broke away the rotor, I just need to get this dang caliper assembly out of the way! Please help! I even used PB Blaster, to no avail!
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You could try tightening the valve cover and or replacing the gasket. Also check around the distributor for signs of leakage, as there's an o ring that usually gets brittle and leaks. <_<
Thanks, Turbo!
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What usually leaks is the distibutor oring, mine was just replaced <_< 93 on the year if you're referring to me. I have some older pics in the garage. I'm waiting to finish my new seats skins install before taking any new ones.
I know those seats are a pain in the a**! I put new seat skins in my Acura Legend before I had the GS. Make sure you post those pics! Tighten down valve cover bolts?
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The reason I am asking is because I have something in my engine that has me concerned. I have like a "dirty oily" type of spot at the top, front, passenger side of my engine. I don't have any problems, just noticed it and thought maybe I should ask about it. Have you changed your own head gaskets before?
Do you have any pics (in and out) of your car? That color is TIGHT!
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I am about to purchase some new rotors. I was wondering if it was OK for me to use the same pads I have on my car now. They are only 4 months old. The rotors are OEM. Thanks!
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I would start with checking all of your grounds and if those are okay then next I would check the radio antenna to the back of the radio to see if it is pushed in all of the way.
You may want to start there. Just some friendly suggestions.
Revhard191
Thanks!
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I have a CD/DVD Player and the CDs play fine, DVDs play fine, TV tuner play fine, but when I play the radio there is a lot of static coming through the speakers as if I don't have it on the correct station. What could this be? Please help, this is so annoying!
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If you want to do it right and have it last use G2 paint. It is more expensive(~$60) than the spray on, but I have done both and there is no comparison. The spray on will last about 1-2 years before really faded. the spray is good for doing engine compartment stuff though cause of its heat resistance.
Pics?
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I am thinking about painting my calipers and hubs. Any 1st Generation GS owners out there done this job? If so, can you post pics? Thanks! :D
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The problem was solved by the new radiator. I had the radiator "pressure checked" before I went and purchased the new one.
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Remember to remove the lower half of the engine fan shroud and don't lose the clips. The clips just slide forward, however you have to pry them outward a little bit. The radiator won't come out all the way, I had a GF hold mine, so you can slide the clamps holding the trans hoses back and then remove the hoses. it can be wedges about halfway in/out for better access to the hoses. You have to unplug the electric fan and temp sensor in the bottom corner as well. Transfer all the old stuff to the new radiator and reinstall.
B)
Well, I finally did it! B) I mean... I changed the radiator! :D Thanks, Turbo, Twin and everyone else that responded. Not that bad of a job at all! This forum is great!
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Hey Kino, yeah, just like turbo said, check the drain plug. Another place you want to check is your water pump. Make sure that it's dry. I had to replace my water pump as well. That's probably the most expensive part i've replaced underneath the hood so far. Usually, when you let your car overheat, the bearing in the waterpump will heatup as well and give way. This in turn will let out a slow leak through the bleeder which will also deplete your coolant. This might not be the case for you, but it wouldn't hurt to check. You are correct about not removing the fan assembly. As for the transmission hoses, I just put some cardboard at the bottom of my car and let it bleed out. It wasn't that much. Just a little bit came out. LOL... yeah, the whole process doesn't take that long... just a couple of hours and you'll be done.
OK, Tomorrow morning I am going to get my car pressure tested and I have a radiator on hold at a local shop (just in case). So my next question is: When I unbolt the radiator (after taking off the scoop), do I lift the radiator out and then undo the transmission hoses or do I have to reach down in there and undo them? I am trying to get all the details so when I do this tomorrow morning all my questions will be answered. Thanks!
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If you still cant see where the coolant is going.....pull up both floor mats in the front of the car,if the mats soaking wet then youve got a leak from the heater matrix......i had that problem with my mk1 Aristo(GS300).....
Good luck
Cheers chips.
Thanks, chips.
ALL,
I can finally see that my car has a leak. There is starting to be a small coolant puddle under my car now. Here is where the leak "looks" to be located: If you are standing in front of the car, looking down at the radiator, the leak "seems" to be on the driver's side, towards the bottom of the radiator. Could it be a hose? or the radiator itself? I may just get it pressue checked before I purchase a new radiator.
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Make sure the IS radiator is exactly like the GS one. So everything will bolt up and on. The GS is only $90 + $30 shipping. I'd stick with what's designed for the car. B)
It will take about a week to get, so decide if that's worth saving $24 + tax. B) I've already purchased one of these radiator and it is an exact fit and match to the OEM. You won't be disappointed. I wanted to get a metal one, since the plastic ones crack, however I couldn't find one that was an exact match to the OEM one. if it last another 12 to 13 years I figure it's worth it.
Thanks, Turbo! Was I correct in saying that I don't have to take the fans off to replace the radiator? Just take off the plastic scoop, unbolt and take out from the passenger side? How did you plug the transmission cooler hoses when you took out the radiator?
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Make sure the IS radiator is exactly like the GS one. So everything will bolt up and on. The GS is only $100 + shipping. I'd stick with what's designed for the car. B)
hey what's up kino. I paid a little bit over 100 bucks on my radiator. It's exactly the same as the IS300 except that it has a mounting bracket somewhere in the center because the IS300 air scoop is small. All I did was cut it off and that was that. I did everything myself. If you plan on removing your radiator, you need to be aware of a couple of things... Your fan cowl has two retaining clips that hold it together. Be careful when removing the fan cowel. Once you've removed all the bolts, don't yank the radiator just yet. At the bottom of the radiator is your trasmission cooler that have hoses attached to the bottom of your radiator (3 I think) which you need to un-do before removing your radiator. After that, it's all cake from there.
Hey,Thanks, Twin. From what I understand is that you don't have to remove the fan assembly to remove the radiator. Is that true? I think it was Turbo that said the radiator can be removed by taking it out from the passenger side. Also, if I am replacing my radiator does it come with the plastic "top" radiator already attached? Thanks!
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Make sure the IS radiator is exactly like the GS one. So everything will bolt up and on. The GS is only $100 + shipping. I'd stick with what's designed for the car. B)
$100 + shipping?? From where, Turbo? My local BAP GEON store has one (in stock) for $144 + tax.
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Thanks, guys! I'll try that!
Twin, how much did you pay for the IS radiator. Was it cheaper than for the 1st Gen GS? Thanks, again!
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If it still continues to lose coolant, pressure test the cooling system to find the leak. B)
Thanks, Turbo. I was thinking about getting that done before I purchased a new radiator.
VGR, I never "changed the coolant", it ran hot.
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What are you topping off the radiator with? Water, TRD antifreeze, regular antifreeze? What color is the antifreeze and who makes it? Did you have a good 50/50 mix before it started dropping?
First, Thanks everyone for reponding. I have no mods. :o (other than rims) I have no aftermarket radiator cap. I have no white smoke. I've had the car for about 2 years. Normal maintenance and preventive maintenenace performed, as usual. Yesterday, two of my co-workers came out and tried to see if they could find a leak anywhere with a flashlight. They found no leak. I even topped off the coolant in the overflow bottle to HIGH (because it was empty) before I left work yesterday. By late yesterday evening the overflow bottle still had the coolant inside. When it ran hot last Friday I had to put 2 gallons of water in just to get me to the Auto Store to get coolant. I put the coolant in and that lasted until this Tuesday when it ran hot again. I put almost a half bottle of 50/50 in my car then. What gives???
The 50/50 I was using was by PRESTONE. The regular coolant I was using was also PRESTONE.
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If the cap is bad it could overheat because it will not allow the pressure to build, A new cap is $5 or $6, just replace it. If the hose is not "firm", your water pump may be bad, which means the water is not being cooled, again overheating. With the cap off and the motor cool, so you don't get scalded by the fluid. Fill the radiator up to near the top, Start the car, leave the cap off temporarily, rev the motor and see if the fluid level drops in the radiator neck. If it does the pump is probably fine. If not the pump is probably bad. If the radiator is original it could benefit from an internal and external flush. As over time sediments can clog the rows, restricting them and could cause overheating. Make sure the front of the radiator is not blocked by debris as well. Replacing the radiator is not to bad, a new one can be bought for $100+ shipping. The hardest part is removing the trans cooler lines as they're usually on there very tight and the clips are hard to get to to release the hose. B) Does the electric fan come on? It has a sensor in the bottom right corner of the radiator, when facing the front of the car, that may need to be cleaned or replaced. I replaced my water pump at the 90,000 service along with the timing belt and thermostat. At about 100,000 miles my radiator top plastic tank cracked, so I replaced it and all the hoses and installed T-Bolt clamps on all the new hoses. So my cooling system is like new. I've heard of several others radiators splitting around the same mileage, so plan on doing it in the near future. I have a new pump if yours is bad, let me know if you need it. If the engine starts to overheat while your driving turn the heat all the way up and the fan on low, of couse this will only help cool the motor if the water pump is working. How many miles are on the car?
Turbo,
The electric fan does come on. Today, I let the car run for awhile looking for a leak or any type of drip. Nothing! Where is the coolant going? It is not in the oil. Maybe I just need a flush and fill.???? I have 107,000 miles on her. I'll check to see how the hose feels tomorrow. Thanks, again, Turbo. I'lll give you an update tomorrow.
Can I Just Add An Aftermarket Amp To My Car?
in 93 - 05 Lexus GS300 / GS400 / GS430
Posted
Twin,
That is exactly what I want to do! Is this something I can do myself or do I need a pro to do it? I put in a system before in an old car I had, but I didn't care if I messed something up either. How many watts does your head unit have? Thanks!